Jewelry Design


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How to Make Your Own Locket

How to Make Your Own Locket

Before photography, lockets were decorated with miniature, handpainted portraits -- a luxury few could afford. The advent of affordable photographic...
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Carat Gold Solders for Jewellery Making

Carat Gold Solders for Jewellery Making

In many countries, regulations govern the caratage of gold solders used to make jewellery and, with few exceptions, gold solder...
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950 Palladium: Custom Made Components

950 Palladium: Custom Made Components

When making custom jewelry with any alloy, certain components within the piece are often hand made to enhance the final...
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The Invisible Setting Process

The Invisible Setting Process

This column is from the At the Bench column that appears every month in AJM. For this project, it is...
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Basic Gypsy or Flush Mount Setting

Basic Gypsy or Flush Mount Setting

First the stone's diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in metal for the pilot drill...
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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as...
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How to Make a Three-Part Silver Ring

How to Make a Three-Part Silver Ring

Using a relatively inexpensive metal and casting it in an ingot mold, you can create a sophisticated design at the...
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The Art of the Celtic Metalsmith

The Art of the Celtic Metalsmith

This research paper was presented at the Society of North American Goldsmiths Conference at Cranbrook Academy of Art in June,...
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Introduction to Basic Concrete Jewelry

Introduction to Basic Concrete Jewelry

Concrete is a wonderful, hard, neutral, unprecious material with a real presence. And it can be successfully adapted to jewellery....
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Coloring Techniques for Metalsmiths

Coloring Techniques for Metalsmiths

Jewelers are a restless and inquisitive group. Not content with producing sumptuous jewelry, they spray it with chemicals, dip it...
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3 Ways to Use 2-Part Epoxy Resins

3 Ways to Use 2-Part Epoxy Resins

Available in a wide variety of formulas, epoxy resins are used in jewelry making as adhesives, as coatings, and for...
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Chain and Bracelet Catches 2

Chain and Bracelet Catches 2

Box catches lend themselves to a wide range of shapes and are frequently used on chains, bracelets and cuff bracelets....
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Generation Z: Future Jewelry Consumers

Generation Z: Future Jewelry Consumers

Generation Z is tech savvy, frugal, philanthropic, and globally aware, and soon its members will be shopping at a jewelry...
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Galalith – Jewelry Milk Stone

Galalith – Jewelry Milk Stone

In 1898, Wilhelm Krische, owner of a factory that made history books and a stone printing shop, patented one of...
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Platinum Alloy Applications for Jewelry

Platinum Alloy Applications for Jewelry

Today, platinum is enjoying its renaissance. In the U.S., platinum consumption has risen by more than 700% since 1990. More...
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Folklore, Power, and Magic of Gemstones

Folklore, Power, and Magic of Gemstones

When the Babylonians observed the passage of the heavenly bodies across the firmament many thousands of years ago and believed...
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Hollow Carat Gold Jewelry

Hollow Carat Gold Jewelry

There is always pressure to reduce the cost of manufactured items and carat gold jewellery is no exception to this...
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Channel Setting Round Diamonds

Channel Setting Round Diamonds

Recently a woman brought an old family diamond into our store and asked to have a custom mounting made for...
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Ceramic Jewelry: Artworks made of Fire and Earth

Ceramic Jewelry: Artworks made of Fire and Earth

People have always been fascinated with the material clay. Our forefathers believed the intelligent design of clay in some way...
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The Jewelry of Hermann Junger

The Jewelry of Hermann Junger

Over the past forty years, jewelry making has become increasingly rich and diversified as the time-honored reliance on precious metals...
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Jewellery Career Options

One of the most interesting things about the jewellery/metals field is that there are so many career options, so many...
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Erotic Watches: Indiscreet Treasures

Erotic Watches: Indiscreet Treasures

The interplay between the erotic and art has featured in all periods of history, on occasion crossing the line into...
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The Art of Anticlastic Raising

The Art of Anticlastic Raising

Transforming a single sheet of metal into an undulating organic form using only a hammer and stake is the art...
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Kliar Vibrant Colors for Metal Jewelry

Kliar Vibrant Colors for Metal Jewelry

Adding vibrant colors to jewelry can involve any number of methods -- from careful enameling by hand to the high-tech...
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Cracks in Jewelry Manufacturing

Cracks in Jewelry Manufacturing

As many jewelry manufacturers and goldsmiths know from hard experience, cracking in jewelry can occur at any time during its...
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German Jewelry Quality and Creativity

German Jewelry Quality and Creativity

Many German jewelry producers have stunning ideas for design combined with a level of quality that satisfies even the most...
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Ways to Choose a Birthstone

"My birthstone is emerald," a potential customer recently told me. "But I don't like green," she continued, "so I never...
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Charles Loloma – Hopi Modernist

Charles Loloma – Hopi Modernist

Master jeweler Charles Loloma was a Hopi spiritual leader -- a member of the Badger Clan and a Hopi snake...
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Basic Bead Setting Techniques

Basic Bead Setting Techniques

First the stone's diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in the metal for the pilot...
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Additive Manufacturing in the Jewelry Scene

Additive Manufacturing in the Jewelry Scene

Did you ever imagine you'd see the day when a finely woven mesh bracelet with thousands of tiny links could...
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The Best Jewelry Books: A Comprehensive Reading List For Craftspeople

A selected bibliography list for the jeweler - Metal working, Casting, Plating, Enamelling ,Gem Cutting, Setting, Engraving and Etching, Other...
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Damascus and Pattern Welding

Damascus and Pattern Welding

True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or...
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Simple Method of Forming Jump Rings

Simple Method of Forming Jump Rings

This paper describes a simple process of forming jump rings. These jump rings were formed from 16 guage sterling silver...
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Manufacturing Mokume Gane Jewelry

Manufacturing Mokume Gane Jewelry

Mokume gane translated from Japanese means "wood eye metal." This rare metal lamination process was developed and used by Japanese...
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How the Bracelet Got its Name

Do you know why that piece of jewelry that goes around your arm is called a bracelet? Or why a...
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Pitch Bowls and Alternatives for Jewelers

Pitch Bowls and Alternatives for Jewelers

Chasing and repousse is carried out on various surfaces using steel punches to strike and manipulate sheet metal or cast...
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Knowing the Difference Between Carat and Karat

Carat, karat, caret, and carrot are all pronounced the same, but each has a different meaning. Carat and karat, of...
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Chain and Bracelet Catches 1

Chain and Bracelet Catches 1

The first requirement of all catches is that they secure neckpieces and bracelets in such a way that they will...
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The Life and Art of Sascha Brastoff

The Life and Art of Sascha Brastoff

Sascha Brastoff was known for his talent and ability in many fields of art, both performing and visual, both fine...
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Gold Jewellery Tarnishing

Tarnishing is superficial corrosion of the carat gold surface and is evident by a usually dark discolouration - the tarnish...
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Refining Gold Jewelry Scraps

Refining Gold Jewelry Scraps

When questions arise about manufacturing quality gold jewelry, manufacturers are eager to talk shop with their peers and industry experts....
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The Jewelry of Gijs Bakker

The Jewelry of Gijs Bakker

Since the late 60s, Gijs Bakker (b. 1942) has been influential to both Dutch and international jewelry design. His work,...
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The Copperwork of Santa Clara Del Cobre

The Copperwork of Santa Clara Del Cobre

Dusty cobblestone streets traversed by oxen and donkeys pulling hay carts, anvils ringing, woodsmoke, chickens pecking next to the wooden...
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Technology’s Relevance to Jewellery Design

Technology’s Relevance to Jewellery Design

Jewellery design is generally considered solely from an artistic standpoint, and the jewellery is viewed as an expression of a...
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Ed Levin: 40 Years of Craft Jewelry

Ed Levin: 40 Years of Craft Jewelry

It is only within the past two decades that craft jewelry has become big business. From a marketing viewpoint, the...
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Art Smith: Goldsmith and Silversmith

Art Smith: Goldsmith and Silversmith

In a promotional flyer from the early 1950s. Art Smith offered a "fanciful ring of space, silver and gold." The...
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The Bauhaus Metal Workshop, 1919-1927

The Bauhaus Metal Workshop, 1919-1927

In this article Deborah Norton traces the rise and fall of this seminal 20th-century school. Although Bauhaus policy revolved around...
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Los Angeles

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Los Angeles

This Metalsmith's Guide to Los Angeles can be useful to metalsmiths who are new to the Los Angeles area or...
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Jewelers’ Gripping Tools

Jewelers’ Gripping Tools

Euro Tool, Inc. offers a wide variety of innovative and standard holding device's to make working at the bench easier,...
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CNC Milling vs. 3D Printing

For someone new to the jewelry industry, the sheer assortment of tools and equipment in the typical workshop can be...
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Turkish Jewelry Industry

Turkish Jewelry Industry

The Turkish jewelry industry is booming. Last year, exports reached a record high of 1,172 billion US-$. Over the last...
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Henry Steig

Henry Steig

Everyone knows the famous picture from the film The Seven Year Itch, of Marilyn Monroe standing on a New York...
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Jewelry Rendering Tools and Projects

These pages contain a list of recommended tools to jewelry rendering, as well as a series of projects that I...
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Peru: The Past is Always Present

Peru: The Past is Always Present

The South American Andes state can look back on a jewelry culture spanning over one thousand years. This has remained...
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Japan-Made Jewelry Design

Japan-Made Jewelry Design

The history of jewelry in Japan is full of upheavals: it dates back more than 9,000 years and yet is...
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Gem Cutting Machinery

Until fairly recently, gem cutting was one of the few areas of the world economy to remain uncontaminated by the...
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Creating Jewelry

Pulse-Arc-Welder: Creating Jewelry

For this project, the No. 1 tip was used with the ABI Pulse Arc Welder. Five tips come with the...
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Working with Platinum & Platinum Designing

My skills as an artist combined with my years of experience at the bench have given me a practical approach...
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China Painting on Enamel Process

China Painting on Enamel Process

Although enameling is a new art form for me, I came to it with many years of china painting experience....
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The Jewelry of Manfred Bischoff

The Jewelry of Manfred Bischoff

Manfred Bischoff has a fascination with language. Like many Europeans of his generation, Bischoff is fluent in several languages, including...
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Creating Colorful Jewelry Designs

Creating Colorful Jewelry Designs

When most people think of colored jewelry, their minds conjure visions of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. After all, jewelry makers...
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Cluster Ring Assembly

Cluster Ring Assembly

One of the most difficult types of construction in jewelry is assembling a cluster of settings supported by a wire...
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Marjorie Schick: New Sculpture Design

Marjorie Schick: New Sculpture Design

For four decades, Marjorie Schick has been one of the pioneers of original avant-garde jewelry. Her works are based on...
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Modern Native American Jewelry

Modern Native American Jewelry

Long recognized for the ubiquitous turquoise and silver squash-blossom necklaces and concho belts, the traditional metalwork of the Southwest has...
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Ed Wiener: Arts and Ends

Ed Wiener: Arts and Ends

Ed Wiener exemplifies the studio jewelry artist of the late 1940s and 50s. The first time we met, this fascinating...
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American Modernist Jewelry 1940-1960

American Modernist Jewelry 1940-1960

Recently, collectors have discovered a body of silver jewelry, eclectic in scope—by turns serious and whimsical—creative, original and quintessentially modern....
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The Jewelry of Thomas Mann

The Jewelry of Thomas Mann

Not so many years ago Thomas Mann figured that 2002 would be his year to retire. But the projected date...
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Silversmith’s Art in Peru

Silversmith’s Art in Peru

Silversmith's Art in Peru In sixteenth-century Viceregal Peru, the area claimed by Spain that originally encompassed all of South America...
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Gerda Flöckinger: First Lady of British Jewelry

Gerda Flöckinger: First Lady of British Jewelry

Starting in the early 1950s, Gerda Flöckinger worked to change the face of British jewelry. Others joined her fledgling crusade,...
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The Work of Three Contemporary Wire Artists

The Work of Three Contemporary Wire Artists

Working on the most meticulous and precise scale, three contemporary wire artists, Barbara SilverStein, Nikki Feldbaum and Biba Schutz create...
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Bead and Bright Setting

Bead and Bright Setting

In the last issue of Bench Magazine I demonstrated how I would go about wax model carving for this unusual...
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Ancient High Cultures: Jewelry, Talisman and Status Symbol

Ancient High Cultures: Jewelry, Talisman and Status Symbol

People have gazed at adorned ears for many millennia. Discoveries in tombs and old legends tel of how ears were...
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Grisaille and Limoges Techniques

Grisaille and Limoges Techniques

My enamel jewelry includes earrings, pins, pendants, lockets and rings done in Grisaille and Limoges techniques. Within most of the...
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CAD/CAM Systems for Metals and Jewelry

If you are involved with computers you know how rapidly things are changing, prices are sinking and capabilities increasing. Computer...
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Re-tipping Platinum Prongs

Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip...
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Urushi: Japanese Lacquer

Urushi: Japanese Lacquer

Urushi is the sap from a staghorn sumac tree (rhus vernicifera) which is native to East Asia. Japanese and Chinese...
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History of Contemporary Canadian Jewellery

History of Contemporary Canadian Jewellery

The history of contemporary Canadian jewellery, like that of Canada itself, has struggled with the assimilation of foreign influences, economies...
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William Spratling: Creator of Modern Taxco Silver

William Spratling: Creator of Modern Taxco Silver

For the past 60 years, tourists visiting Mexico have sought distinctive silver jewelry and holloware, crafted by native artisans. Although...
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E.U. Expands Gem Buying

E.U. Expands Gem Buying

The European Union’s gemstone imports were up a solid 7.5 percent to €412.5 million (US$544.4 million) in 2006, mostly on...
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CAD Modeling Prong Settings

CAD Modeling Prong Settings

If you're designing jewelry using CAD, understanding how the piece will be cast and then set and finished at the...
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Moche Metalwork

Moche Metalwork

All that glitters attracts both the museum visitor and the archaeologist. Whether one is looking at tastefully displayed objects in...
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Jewellers’ Objective Attitude Towards Designing

It is sometimes useful to have criticism of one's work in order to develop it. While studying as an apprentice...
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The Great Pectoral from Tolstaya Mogila

The Great Pectoral from Tolstaya Mogila

In 1971, excavations in a kurgan (grave mound) named Tolstaya Mogila – big barrow – in the city of Ordzonikidzhe...
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Colored Stone Light Source

Can the colored stone industry choose a standard light source from the multitude on the market?
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Friedrich Becker: Escape Into the Fourth Dimension

Friedrich Becker: Escape Into the Fourth Dimension

The gold and silversmith Friedrich Becker has succeeded in uniting technology and art in a fascinating manner. Through his work...
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Germany

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Germany

My trips to Germany in 1980 and 1982 were the most satisfying experiences in relation to my metalwork. They were...
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Working with Jewelry Hinges Made Easy

Working with Jewelry Hinges Made Easy

Sometimes working with jewelry hinges can be too taxing. And not knowing how will make your work even harder. Here's...
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Project Management for Jewelers

I came up with this system to solve some production and prioritizing problems at a small custom jewelry store. We...
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Lapponia Jewellery and The Message of the Sculptor

Lapponia Jewellery and The Message of the Sculptor

Björn Weckström had a decisive influence on the idea of Finnish style. Over four decades of cooperation with Lapponia Jewellery...
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Cloisonne Jewelry with 24k Wires

Cloisonne Jewelry with 24k Wires

Merry-Lee Rae has been making jewelry since 1966 when she joined her father in the garage while he dabbled in...
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Designing Contemporary Flatware

Designing Contemporary Flatware

No single item is more used yet more neglected than flatware. It is used in one form or another by...
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The Jewelry Clasp

The Jewelry Clasp

It does not enclose the precious object to conceal it, but to display it: the jewelry clasp. It protects against...
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Smalt (Ground Glass)

Smalt (Ground Glass)

Smalt is a word used to describe ground glass when it is either mixed with oil and applied to canvas,...
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Cutlery: A Matter of Taste

Cutlery: A Matter of Taste

Eating and drinking have been part of life forever. And people have always striven to make something special out of...
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Basic Jewelry Construction and Soldering Principles

Basic Jewelry Construction and Soldering Principles

A short review of construction and soldering principles would be a good idea at this point. They're fairly basic. Principles...
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A Conversation with Angela Cummings

A Conversation with Angela Cummings

In October of 1983 Angela Cummings announced that she would end a 16-year association with Tiffany & Company in order...
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The Seven Korean Metalsmiths

The Seven Korean Metalsmiths

Five thousand years of Korean goldsmithing was interrupted from 1913 to 1953 due to the Japanese invasion and the Korean...
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Paul A. Lobel: Innovator of Mid-Century Design

Paul A. Lobel: Innovator of Mid-Century Design

The accomplishments of Paul A. Lobel, industrial designer, metalsmith, sculptor and cartoonist/illustrator, may be viewed as the quintessential American success...
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Jewelry Design in Geneva Education

Jewelry Design in Geneva Education

A pretty red brick building from the 19th century is located not far from the city center of Geneva, a...
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The Metalwork and Jewelry of Harry Bertoia

The Metalwork and Jewelry of Harry Bertoia

Harry Bertoia was not simply a metalsmith or a furniture designer, sculptor or printmaker, artist or craftsman. He was all...
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Gold of Africa: Jewellery and Ornaments from Ghana

Gold of Africa: Jewellery and Ornaments from Ghana

Now this is a truly attractive book. One of those coffee table type books dripping with gorgeous National Geographic quality...
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The Work of Keith Lewis

The Work of Keith Lewis

Possibly the most controversial jewelry artist now working in the United States, Keith Lewis Is undergoing a transition from propagandist...
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Universal Expanding Ring Mandrel

Universal Expanding Ring Mandrel

The other week a friend came by the shop for some jewelry related lathe help. She was using a ring...
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Claire Falkenstein: Never-Ending Universe

Claire Falkenstein: Never-Ending Universe

Claire Falkenstein is a master of linear metal sculpture. Hers is not an art of solid form, as relating to...
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Along the Silk Road

Along the Silk Road

Roads connect. The various cultures along the Silk Road are spread out like pearls along a string. Its name is...
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The School for American Craftsmen (SAC)

The School for American Craftsmen (SAC)

The history of the School for American Craftsmen (SAC) can be seen as a microcosm of the history of the...
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Ring Sizing Tips and Tricks

Ring Sizing Tips and Tricks

Ask a seasoned bench jeweler how many rings he or she has sized and they'll probably give you a figure...
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Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths

Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths

Looking down the long corridors of time, the ancient Etruscans emerge as a powerful people whose economic and social development...
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2 Successful Stone Setting Tips

2 Successful Stone Setting Tips

Ask any experienced jeweler, and they'll tell you: it takes stones to become a gem setter. You literally have to...
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Kyoto, Japan

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Kyoto, Japan

To begin with, it might be important to present some background material on Kyoto itself. The Emperor Kammu founded Kyoto...
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Creatively Blurring the Borders Between Nature and Art

Creatively Blurring the Borders Between Nature and Art

The eclipse of nature makes it all the more captivating, especially for artists. Nature has been a topic that cultural...
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Hiko Mizuno College: Japanese Jewelry

Hiko Mizuno College: Japanese Jewelry

The imposing seven-story Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, often photographer for architecture magazines because of its unique design, juts up...
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Emmy Van Leersum: Lines and Patterns

Emmy Van Leersum: Lines and Patterns

Dutch jewelry designer Emmy van Leersum, who died November 2, 1984, had been internationally recognized for over 20 years. Her...
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The Enamelwork of Jamie Bennett

The Enamelwork of Jamie Bennett

It is a rare and most welcome event when a technical innovation is accompanied by an esthetic revelation. This is...
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The Helen Williams Drutt Collection of Modern Jewelry

The Helen Williams Drutt Collection of Modern Jewelry

The Helen Williams Drutt Collection offers a personal view of the development in fine art jewelry over the past 20...
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The Work of Tom Muir

The Work of Tom Muir

Silver has been a part of American domestic ritual and tradition since the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when bourgeois families...
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Restoring a Hollow Link Bracelet

Restoring a Hollow Link Bracelet

This 14 karat white and yellow gold two tone bracelet has hollow wire links. The link near the clasp which...
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A Hard Metal for Delicate Jewels

A Hard Metal for Delicate Jewels

The bright, white metal exudes purism, suggests technical aptitude and hints at progress, zeitgeist and perfection. Jewelry made of stainless...
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Chinggis Khan: Art of Mongolia

Chinggis Khan: Art of Mongolia

As the global economy expands and the Internet gives us access to faraway destinations in a matter of minutes, there...
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Beads in Contemporary American Art

Beads in Contemporary American Art

Throughout history, beads have been treated as valuable personal possessions. More than thirty-thousand years ago, Cro-Magnon man strung pierced bear...
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The Jewelry of Michael Zobel

The Jewelry of Michael Zobel

What he wanted to be was a painter, although he was also thinking about being a graphic artist or book...
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Mario Pinton: A Father to All

Mario Pinton: A Father to All

Firtz Falk, the curator of the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim, was the first to call it the Padua School, back in 1983....
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Washington, D.C.

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Washington, D.C.

This is a continuing series of metalsmith's guides to cities, regions and museums throughout the world. The purpose of these...
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The World of David Freda

The World of David Freda

One function of art is to challenge the status quo-to persuade, shock, or seduce us into seeing the world, and...
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Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree

Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree

Victoria Lansford on the art of filigree—Russian or otherwise BOX: The Art of Handcraft Every jewelry designer can pinpoint the...
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Giampaolo Babetto: The Jewelry Architect

Giampaolo Babetto: The Jewelry Architect

For Giampaolo Babetto, the student occupation of the Academy of Fine Arts in Venice in 1968 was a harsh blow....
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The American Kayserzinn Pewter Exhibition

The American Kayserzinn Pewter Exhibition

The first American exhibition of Kayserzinn Pewter, the trademark for art pewter ware manufactured at the turn of the century...
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On the Nature of Jewelry

On the Nature of Jewelry

As the only magazine of its kind, Metalsmith is many things to many people. In an effort to encourage not...
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Profitable Jewelry Design and Repair

A few years ago, Jewelers Circular Magazine reported that over 75% of all retail jewelers in America lose money on...
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The Right Preparation for Visiting a Trade Fair

The Right Preparation for Visiting a Trade Fair

Trade fairs are still the most important platform to find information on trends and new products. Direct discussions between existing...
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Ivory and Bone: Archaic Materials

Ivory and Bone: Archaic Materials

Ivory and bone have been used by humans for sculptures and jewelry purposes from very early times. The Upper Paleolithic...
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Practical Jewelry Rendering

Practical Jewelry Rendering

Gems are a lot of fun to render, but because they require some precision, you might want to render a...
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Intro to Enameling: Double-Sided Pendant 1

Intro to Enameling: Double-Sided Pendant 1

For the last couple years The W.W. Carpenter Enamel Foundation has held "Intro To Enameling" workshops that are designed to...
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Rendering Design and Process

Rendering Design and Process

This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal...
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The Varied History of Platinum

The Varied History of Platinum

No other precious metal has experienced such a varied history over the course of time. Discovered early on and appreciated...
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The Boulle and Bjo Rue Du Louvre Colleges

The Boulle and Bjo Rue Du Louvre Colleges

Even if France is not offering the same high level of education in fine jewelry making as in certain other...
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Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire - looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22...
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The World of Sevan Bicakci

The World of Sevan Bicakci

The fact that the jewelry by Turkish designer Sevan Bicakci looks like they come straight from the legend of Ali...
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Memories of Tony

Memories of Tony

Memories of Tony Relationships with individuals are born in a variety oFways - my friendship with Tony Papp began at...
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The Work of Marie Zimmermann

The Work of Marie Zimmermann

Imagine walking into your studio and having the skill and confidence to create anything you desire. From the tiniest ladys...
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950 Palladium: Fabrication and Assembly

950 Palladium: Fabrication and Assembly

This article covers methods and techniques for hand fabrication, soldering and assembly for a custom designed 950 palladium and cultured...
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Jewelry Making Study Sheet

Jewelry Making Study Sheet

Jewelry making is a big job. That is that there is a lot to know and a lot to learn....
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Frey Wille: An Homage to Art

Frey Wille: An Homage to Art

From the ancient Greeks to contemporary art – this Vienna-based enamel workshop excites its clients throughout the world with artistic...
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Marketing Your Work as PMC or Fine Silver

Marketing Your Work as PMC or Fine Silver

The doors to the craft show have opened, and customers are beginning to make their way down the aisle. One...
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Creating a Two Tone Ring

Creating a Two Tone Ring

In this issue I'm going to walk you through the creation of a ring with two different colors of gold....
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Cast Hinges for Jewelers and Goldsmiths

Cast Hinges for Jewelers and Goldsmiths

Cast hinges are a very important part of much production jewelry work, partly because hinge assembly on such pieces is...
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Full eBook: The Jewelry Maker

Full eBook.48 Pages: Jewelry and metalsmithing are hard work, and also very rewarding. There is great pleasure in creating with...
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Rome

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Rome

Rome. Truly the eternal city, where every monument reflects simultaneously the past and the present. As Goethe so aptly states...
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The Work of Michael Boyd

The Work of Michael Boyd

Jewelry artist Michael Boyd fills his cup with newfound forms and shapes. Well known for his contemporary roll-on cuff bracelets...
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Eutectic Process for Artistic Effect

Eutectic Process for Artistic Effect

Some years ago, I was working on a cloisonné piece using silver wire on copper in my home studio and...
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The Art Treasures of the Thracians

The Art Treasures of the Thracians

To date, Orpheus and Spartacus are probably the best-known representatives of a people whose traces have been lost in history....
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White Gold: Jewelry Made of Porcelain

White Gold: Jewelry Made of Porcelain

Porcelain – for over 600 years a well kept secret of the Chinese, before it was discovered for a second...
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Jewelry Using a Microfold Brake

Jewelry Using a Microfold Brake

With a simple corrugation tool and basic metalsmithing skills, you can make these great earrings. The newest toy in my...
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The Enamels of Annemarie Davidson

The Enamels of Annemarie Davidson

Active as an enamelist since 1957, Annemarie Davidson has made functional objects - from plates and boxes to ashtrays, trivets,...
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Squaring the Diamond

Squaring the Diamond

When setting a round brilliant diamond in a four prong setting there is some debate among stone setters on how...
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CAD/CAM Techniques

CAD/CAM Techniques

The strength of Computer Aided Design &  Manufacturing is similar to that of any other tool on the bench:it is...
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Peruvian Jewelry Art and Metalwork

Peruvian Jewelry Art and Metalwork

Peru, Land of the Inca, the Sun Worshippers, Land of Gold (the "Sweat of the Sun"), Land of Silver (the...
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Laurie Hall: A Primitive Contemporary

Laurie Hall: A Primitive Contemporary

It takes a powerful psyche to cope with and build on the kind of support and inspiration that has surrounded...
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Fascinating Interaction of Enamel

Fascinating Interaction of Enamel

The fascinating depth and quality of the intesive colors that are created by melting stained glass on a metal surface...
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Laminae Ex Voto

Laminae Ex Voto

Votives are objects offered to a deity in exchange for favor and in the cultures of southern Italy and Sicily,...
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Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith

Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith

From 1988 to 1989, German goldsmith Hermann Jünger was celebrated in his native country with a major retrospective of his...
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How to Draw Celtic Knots

How to Draw Celtic Knots

A knot is what you create when you tangle up a piece of string and join up the two ends,...
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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

I first discovered Allan Adler's Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my...
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Pierre Degen Plays: His Own Rules

Pierre Degen Plays: His Own Rules

"There are no rules there. At one point there will be an idea...and I will find a material that is...
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Watercolor Technique

Watercolor Technique

This technique involves the blending of several transparent and opalescent colors on a background of flux flecked with white, with...
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A Profile of The Niessing Company

A Profile of The Niessing Company

When we became engaged two years ago, we bought a Niessing tension ring, a simple band in which a diamond...
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The Work of Steven Ford and David Forlano

The Work of Steven Ford and David Forlano

Visitors to craft shows may know Steven Ford and David Forlano by their company name, CityZenCane, the polymer clay guys,...
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Elisabeth Treskow: Pave Maker of Modernity

Elisabeth Treskow: Pave Maker of Modernity

A changed world and new perceptions of life determined the development of jewelry art in the period before the Second...
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Opals: All the Colors of the Rainbow

Opals: All the Colors of the Rainbow

Due to their magical variety of color, opals are evocative of a solidified rainbow. These gemstones seem to have captured...
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The Curse of the Fabergé Eggs

The Curse of the Fabergé Eggs

In our April issue, we reported the 189-piece collection (including 9 Fabergé Imperial Eggs) owned by the late Malcolm Forbes...
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The Czar’s Gold Masterpieces

The Czar’s Gold Masterpieces

The Kremlin Armory houses unique collections of precious items that mirror the artistic wealth of the country and the relations...
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Translating Line Art into 3D Models in Matrix

Translating Line Art into 3D Models in Matrix

Line art, such as logos, family crests, text or numbers, cartoon characters, and even sketches can be quickly and easily...
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Naum Slutzky Jewelry at the Bauhaus

Naum Slutzky Jewelry at the Bauhaus

From 1919-23 the Bauhaus also had a jewelry workshop run as a private enterprise by Naum Slutzky. He was on...
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The Inventive Jewelry of Earl Pardon

The Inventive Jewelry of Earl Pardon

Earl Pardon's work has an elusive quality that is difficult to describe, yet this quality has motivated him throughout years...
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Diamonds: Nature’s Brilliant Idea

Diamonds: Nature’s Brilliant Idea

No other precious gem is as familiar — and coveted — as diamond. Learn the legends and histories behind some...
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Fusion Patterns

Fusion Patterns

This paper describes a process that combines techniques researched by others with a few well known facts about the properties...
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Namu Cho: Jewelry as a Talisman

Namu Cho: Jewelry as a Talisman

Clear floral motifs or forms like from a dream world, mystic color contrasts with soft waves, patterns that appear like...
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Jewelry Design and Manufacturing Process

Jewelry Design and Manufacturing Process

At GLJW it iss not unusual to see the sales staff wearing jewelers aprons and optivisors at one of the...
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Kiff Slemmons: Uncommon Means of Measure

Kiff Slemmons: Uncommon Means of Measure

Kiff Slemmons: Uncommon Means of Measure Kiff Slemmons’s jewelry is created as much for the mind as for the body....
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Repairing an Omega Earring Clip

Repairing an Omega Earring Clip

This project shows a challenging repair and reconstruction of earrings with a broken Omega clip and heat sensitive gemstones.
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20th Century Swiss Jewelry Designs

20th Century Swiss Jewelry Designs

A representative cross-section of jewelry design in Switzerland in the last century, entitled "The Art of Jewelry in Switzerland in...
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The Metal Arts Guild of Ontario

The Metal Arts Guild of Ontario

In 1946 a small band of metal enthusiasts in Toronto, Canada, formed the Metal Arts Guild (MAG) "to promote and...
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Phillip Baldwin

Phillip Baldwin

Phillip Baldwin Now that The Year of American Craft is here, the list of artists deserving immediate recognition and overdue...
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The Civil War Chess Set

The Civil War Chess Set

Richly detailed portrait sculptures of great American heroes—in solid pewter, solid brass and fine enamels. An heirloom chess set to...
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William Harper: Artist as Alchemist

William Harper: Artist as Alchemist

It seems only just, when so many barriers are collapsing, that one of the more prophetic artists of the late...
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Poul Beckmann: Crawling Jewels

Poul Beckmann: Crawling Jewels

Opinions are divided when it comes to beetles: while some people flee as soon as one of these six-legged creatures...
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Channel Setting Princess Cuts

Channel Setting Princess Cuts

Recently, a woman brought in her diamonds and asked to have a ring made with them. Her requirements were very...
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Charcoal Dust Bluing

Charcoal Dust Bluing

Sometimes when you are looking for one thing, you discover something else. The unexpected can change your course and you...
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Arline Fisch: The Art of Wearable Magic

Arline Fisch: The Art of Wearable Magic

The most intriguing characteristic of Arline Fisch's work, particularly the textile constructions, is their utter transformation when worn. What may...
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The Jewelry of Antonio Bernardo

The Jewelry of Antonio Bernardo

From autodidact to prize-winning designer: 30 years ago, the Brazilian national Antonio bernardo founded his jewelry production firm in Rio...
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Underglaze Pencils

Underglaze Pencils

Jessica Calderwood after having stepped upon some magic toes in history gives renewed credential to the field of enameling in...
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Prong Setting Round Brilliant Gemstones

Prong Setting Round Brilliant Gemstones

For setting round brilliant gemstones in prongs, many setters and bench jeweler generalists use a 90 degree low speed bearing...
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Jewelry Gemstone Engraving Over the Passage of Time

Jewelry Gemstone Engraving Over the Passage of Time

The art of gem cutting (glyptics in Greek) is one of the oldest testimonies to how installed, fascinating miniatures can...
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Bettina Dittlmann: Power of Subtlety

Bettina Dittlmann: Power of Subtlety

At Rhode Island School of Design’s recent exhibitions of work by graduates of the Munich Academy of Fine Arts, objects...
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A Feminist Perspective

A taboo was broken when the word ”feminist" was used in the review of "Form Beyond Function" in Metalsmith (Spring...
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Dorothea Pruhl: Liberal Jewelry Sculptures

Dorothea Pruhl: Liberal Jewelry Sculptures

Breslau-born Dorothea Pruhl (in 1937) has been dealing with jewelry as a statement and the design of jewelry for four...
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Engine Turned Fine Silver for Basse Taille

Engine Turned Fine Silver for Basse Taille

Engine Turned Fine Silver for Basse Taille I do engine turning on precious metal. It is a joy. The finished...
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Sightseeing: Between Architecture and Jewelry

Sightseeing: Between Architecture and Jewelry

Anyone working in a creative field knows just how strong the influence between the direct environment and each individual’s work...
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Keraflex: The White Miracle

Keraflex: The White Miracle

If you wish to create filigree jewelry using porcelain, up to now you had been forced to make a mass...
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Lori Talcott: As Large as Life

Lori Talcott: As Large as Life

… And so it came to pass that of the mostly sons and occasional daughters of the Heroes, there was...
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The Jewelry, Art and Artifact of Ramona Solberg

The Jewelry, Art and Artifact of Ramona Solberg

In the three years since her retirement from 31 years of teaching, Ramona Solberg has had three exhibitions of her...
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The Arts and Crafts Movement

The Arts and Crafts Movement

"It is allowing machines to be our masters and not our servants that so insures the beauty of life nowadays."...
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Master Metalsmith Irena Brynner

Master Metalsmith Irena Brynner

The following text is edited from two interviews taped in 1982 with Irena Brynner, one by Dorothy Van Arsdale in...
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Contemporary Japanese Jewellery

Contemporary Japanese Jewellery

Contemporary Japanese Jewellery, In order to introduce largely unknown contemporary Japanese jewelry to the West, British jeweler Simon Fraser, working...
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Goldsmith’s Goldsmith: Pat Flynn

Goldsmith’s Goldsmith: Pat Flynn

Everybody knows Pat Flynn. Pat Flynn, the jewelerly jeweler. Pat Flynn the goldsmith’s goldsmith. The bear of a man from...
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Christian Schmidt: The New Naturalism

Christian Schmidt: The New Naturalism

Christian Schmidt is infamous for his contribution to the 1964 "Fiber, Clay, Metal" exhibition at the St. Paul Art Center,...
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Gerrit Rietveld Academy: To Abandon What Has Been

Gerrit Rietveld Academy: To Abandon What Has Been

It is named after a great architect, located in the southern part of one of Europe’s most interesting cities and...
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Melee Sizes for Better Layouts

Melee Sizes for Better Layouts

In modern-day fine jewelry, the most commonly used stone material is round brilliant-cut (RBC) diamond melee. Widely available in a...
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Vermeil Jewelries

Vermeil Jewelries

Considering metals prices continue to be sky high, it's no surprise that plating companies' phones are ringing off the hook....
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Master Metalsmith Miyé Matsukata

Master Metalsmith Miyé Matsukata

When I began writing about American metalsmithing and jewelry and researching influential artists of the 1970s, the name Miyé Matsukata...
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Mary Ann Scherr

Mary Ann Scherr

Machines have always fascinated Mary Ann Scherr – first the drill press, bandsaw and oxyacetylene torch, and now the computer;...
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Kathleen O’Rourke

Kathleen O’Rourke

Santa Fe jewelry designer Kathleen O’Rourke is describing a move whose opening shot shows a Celtic queen riding horseback, her...
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Computer Design of Jewelry

Computer Design of Jewelry

Professions and professional skills change over the years. In this context, it is an undeniable fact that computers have revolutionized...
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Layout Form / Template

Layout Form / Template

Click on the image to enlarge and download and you can use this layout form or template to help layout...
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Production Jewelers: Design & Industrial Techniques

Production Jewelers: Design & Industrial Techniques

This is the second in a series of articles about production jewelers. This installment concentrates on design versus saleability, the...
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Watch Design Trends 2004

Watch Design Trends 2004

The latest watch and design trends in 2004 make it obvious that the trend is going towards larger casing sizes...
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Making a 950 Palladium Signet Ring

Making a 950 Palladium Signet Ring

The natural beauty of this white, bright and light palladium ring is enhanced with hand engraving of initials done in...
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Laser Repair: Emerald & Diamond Ring

Laser Repair: Emerald & Diamond Ring

It seems like a lot of laser repairs involve emeralds. I recall the Indiana Jones movies where "Indy" comes face...
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The Jewelry of Sue Amendolara

The Jewelry of Sue Amendolara

Once upon a time, all art was about nature, the simplification or elaboration of natural forms. Egyptians assembled leaves of...
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The Jewelry of Barney Jette

The Jewelry of Barney Jette

Barney Jette and wife Nancy Ball have built a retail success story, solely focused on jewelry featuring Jettes design. The...
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10th Brazil Gem Show: Back to the Source

10th Brazil Gem Show: Back to the Source

The 10th Brazil Gem Show was, in many respects, a show reborn. Held March 15-18 in Governador Valadares, Brazil, the...
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CAD Design Problems

CAD Design Problems

Making jewelry is the perfect confluence of art and science. It’s where aesthetic and inspiration meet application and practicality. Computer-aided...
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The Art and Industry of Metal Furniture

The Art and Industry of Metal Furniture

In recent years, the design of furniture has invited experimentation by practitioners in a wide range of artistic disciplines. While...
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Charles Loloma: Spirit of the New

Charles Loloma: Spirit of the New

On January 7, 1921, a son was born to Rex of the Sand and Tobacco Clan and Rachael Loloma of...
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Sustainable Alternatives

Sustainable Alternatives

Jewelers redefining what it means to source responsibly Martin Taber is happy. “I am living in a world where people...
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Marriage Rites: The Ring as a Symbol of Eternal Faithfulness

Marriage Rites: The Ring as a Symbol of Eternal Faithfulness

In many cultures, exchanging rings as a symbol of eternal togetherness is an integral element of the wedding rituals. Other...
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Flush Mount Diamond Setting

Flush Mount Diamond Setting

Flush setting, or "gypsy setting" as it is sometimes known, is a somewhat exacting and delicate setting technique. The main...
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Hermann Junger: Goldsmith Art is with Global Charisma

Hermann Junger: Goldsmith Art is with Global Charisma

Professor Hermann Jünger, one of the most defining personalities in goldsmith art over the second half of the last century,...
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The Intimate World of Alexander Calder

The Intimate World of Alexander Calder

The real Alexander Calder is to be found in the intimate work – the toys, gadgets, jewelry – those delightful...
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The Jewelry of Barbara Seidenath

The Jewelry of Barbara Seidenath

When Venetian glassmakers sold out their state secrets to Czech glassmakers, Jablonec began its hegemony in glass beads. The region...
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Fish Tail Setting

Fish Tail Setting

This wonderful style of setting has been around the world of stone setting for many, many years. As you can...
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Karl Fischer GmbH: One for All

Karl Fischer GmbH: One for All

Regardless of whether it is question of machines, tools, equipment, working materials and chemicals, findings, gemstones or pearls for gold...
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Sand Casting

Sand Casting

Sand casting is among the oldest techniques of duplicating items of jewelry. It is simple in terms of equipment, but...
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Tricia Young

Tricia Young

Along with a desire to know how things work and how to do things, I have had a lifelong fascination...
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Tokyo, Japan

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Tokyo, Japan

Nothing is simple in Tokyo—not the language, not the culture, not the geography. Even getting information is a major task...
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A Conversation with Michael Rowe

A Conversation with Michael Rowe

Michael Rowe uses functional containers as a base from which to explore formal studies of space, form and balance, which...
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Social Networking Tips for Jewelry Companies

The most trusted way for Jewelers, Artists, Craftsmen ' Metalsmiths to discover state-of-the-art products and services has fundamentally changed. Word-of-mouth has become a Metalsmiths most efficient way of learning about new products...
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Phillip Fike

Phillip Fike

When I sought out a writing project Metalsmith proposed Phillip Fike, a founding member of SNAG, and resident of my...
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Katharina Bianca Vones: Deep Beneath the Sea

Katharina Bianca Vones: Deep Beneath the Sea

Since her first year of studies at the Edinburgh College of Art, Katharina Bianca Vones has been deluged with awards...
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China’s Treasure Island

China’s Treasure Island

Golden, white, and rose-colored pearls of dubious quality dangle from her outstretched arms. At least 20 more strands are draped...
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Heinz Brummel

Heinz Brummel

Upon entering his studio, anyone familiar with Heinz Brummel’s work will recognize the playful geometry of the vignette making up...
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The Jewlery of Alberto Zorzi

The Jewlery of Alberto Zorzi

People who think exclusively of geometric forms when they hear the name Alberto Zorzi only know half the story. His...
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How to Make a Plique a Jour Fairy

How to Make a Plique a Jour Fairy

This is a HIDI, (How I Do It). It is not the only way to make a piece like this,...
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Judging Juried Exhibition

Judging Juried Exhibition

The cry of the rejected: “Why?” is the loudest single continuing lament heard after every juried show. Even when juror’s...
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Himalayan Ruby Hunt

Himalayan Ruby Hunt

In February 2006, some unusual rubies began to appear in the gem market in Bangkok, Thailand. They were both attractive...
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Proudly South African

Proudly South African

Although the political situation has caused a reorientation and reevaluation of the entire society for years, not very much has...
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Charon Kransen Arts

Charon Kransen Arts

Charon Kransen, a New Yorker by choice, has dedicated himself with passion to innovative jewelry design – he has been...
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Master Metalsmith John Paul Miller

Master Metalsmith John Paul Miller

A provocative dilemma evolves when one attempts to use the written word to describe things which are in essence ineffable....
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Sigurd Persson: A Truly Genuine Modernist

Sigurd Persson: A Truly Genuine Modernist

The Swedish silversmith and designer Sigurd Persson retained his most typical characteristics to a ripe old age: his creativity and...
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Metalsmith 1997 Exhibition

Metalsmith 1997 Exhibition

This article showcases various exhibitions  published in the 1997 Exhibition issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Greg Campbell, David...
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The Evolution of Metal Clay Design

The Evolution of Metal Clay Design

In 1996, Rio Grande in Albuquerque, New Mexico, introduced artists and jewelers in the United States to Precious Metal Clay...
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The Jewish Ceremonial Objects

The Jewish Ceremonial Objects

Jewish ceremonial objects have been in production since ancient times. Periodic migrations, voluntary and otherwise, distributed the Jewish people throughout...
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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt's best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in...
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Hilde Leiss: A Very Special Jewelry Show

Hilde Leiss: A Very Special Jewelry Show

Where else, if not in Hamburg, this unique riverside city, has jewelry earned a platform that exceeds the bounds of...
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Jeweler Larry Bruno Recycles

Jeweler Larry Bruno Recycles

When Larry Bruno built his new store across from picturesque Springfield Falls in western Pennsylvania, he knew he had lucked...
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Angela Hübel: Sculptures for the Hand

Angela Hübel: Sculptures for the Hand

Large and comfortable – this is the style of the rings created by the Munich-based jewelry designer Angela Hübel. The...
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Agate: Nature’s Fingerprint

Agate: Nature’s Fingerprint

A petrified miracle of creation – most deserving of this kind of finely sensual description is agate. Agate is found...
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Klaus Ullrich: Pioneer and Pedagogue

Klaus Ullrich: Pioneer and Pedagogue

February 11, 1954: “Traces of work appear to be something akin to ornaments of contemporary society. If you, Klaus Ullrich,...
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Jade Snow Wong

Jade Snow Wong

Jade Snow Wong 1922 – 2006 Jade Snow Wong, an extraordinarily accomplished enamelist, ceramist, and author, died on Thursday, March...
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3 Top Challenges for Jewelry Makers in 2014

3 Top Challenges for Jewelry Makers in 2014

Editor's Note: Looking ahead at the coming year, it's just as important to consider the challenges facing the jewelry industry...
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Otto Künzli: Freedom of Opportunity

Otto Künzli: Freedom of Opportunity

The various education centers for jewelry design offer very different ways of completing a course of stuides to become a...
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Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth

Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth

Last fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee hosted a retrospective of the work of Helen Shirk. Nearly...
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The JCK Show: The World’s Elite Designers

The JCK Show: The World’s Elite Designers

The JCK Show in Las Vegas from June 1 to 5, 2007 is seen around the world as one of...
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Cultural Myths Defining Jewelry

Cultural Myths Defining Jewelry

A woman's job evaluation included the observation that she showed unmistakable signs of penis envy. "The unmistakable signs were. ....
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Wendy Ramshaw: Picasso’s Ladies

Wendy Ramshaw: Picasso’s Ladies

Those of us who have been following Wendy Ramshaw's work, for close to 20 years, hove come to anticipate the...
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Betty Cooke: Total Design in Jewelry

Betty Cooke: Total Design in Jewelry

In the Spring 1959 issue of Craft Horizons, entitled "U.S. Crafts in This Industrial Society," Editor Rose Slivka divides the...
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The Enamelwork of Bill Helwig

The Enamelwork of Bill Helwig

When enamelist Bill Helwig celebrated the half-century mark in July of 1988, his wife Lenore Davis, asked the celebrants to...
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Gem Dealer’s Secret – Table of Contents

Gem Dealer’s Secret – Table of Contents

This book is written as a guideline for the potential buyer of gemstones that are mined from the earth or...
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2017 MJSA Vision Award Winners

2017 MJSA Vision Award Winners

Some designers find inspiration in the night sky, others in the natural world, and some in flowing architectural lines. This...
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Metalsmith Suite iPhone App Test

Metalsmith Suite iPhone App Test

The jewelry industry today is not what it was 15 or 20 years ago. From CAD/CAM to inventory control software,...
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The Jewelry of Vincent Ferrini

The Jewelry of Vincent Ferrini

On the second floor of a historic wooden building in an elegant shopping area of affluent Concord, Massachusetts, is found...
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Platinum Casting with Gemstones

Platinum casting with gemstones in place has been the latest development before the end of the second millennium. It has...
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Findings, Clasps and Semi-Finished Components

Findings, Clasps and Semi-Finished Components

Small and intricate, they contribute significantly to easing the workload of the goldsmith. From classical ball clasps for the repair...
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Splendor Jewellery – A Labor of Love

Splendor Jewellery – A Labor of Love

Orsolya Ráski Nagy and Daniel Nagy Splendor Jewellery Budakeszi, Hungary First Place, Professional Excellence (4 or More Years in Business)...
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The Life Works of Carl Jennings

The Life Works of Carl Jennings

This past fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee mounted a retrospective exhibition of the work of master...
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Custom Antique Coin Pendant

Custom Antique Coin Pendant

This article features manufacturing steps for a custom designed 14-karat yellow gold and diamond coin pendant. The coin pendant featured...
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The Life and Times of J. Fred Woell

The Life and Times of J. Fred Woell

Fred Woell's spirit was born in and of the sixties. His molten slogans register, graffitt-ilike, upon the collective "wall" of...
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Margaret De Patta: Jewelry for An Ever-Increasing Minority

Margaret De Patta: Jewelry for An Ever-Increasing Minority

This article was written by Margaret De Patta in 1948 and never published. It is printed here with the kind...
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Manufacturing a Free-Form Pendant

Manufacturing a Free-Form Pendant

This article features the manufacturing steps for a one-of-a-kind free-form pendant designed and created by Barney Jette. The center stone...
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A Faberge Inspired Mechanical Jewelry Egg

A Faberge Inspired Mechanical Jewelry Egg

Early in 1984 Jack called to see if I'd be interested in creating an anniversary gift to celebrate twenty-five years...
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Betty Helen Longhi Exhibition

Betty Helen Longhi Exhibition

It is refreshing to see a designer of Betty Helen Longhi's ability break away from the museum mentality and move...
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The Jewelry of Holly Lee

The Jewelry of Holly Lee

It takes an interesting person to make interesting jewelry and Holly Lee fits the bill. Originally from a family that...
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Competition for Jewelry Made of Silicon Carbide

Competition for Jewelry Made of Silicon Carbide

Within the framework of the competition “Jewelry plus silicon carbide”, participants were asked to use the aesthetic properties of a...
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Cultural Influences Characteristics

Cultural Influences Characteristics

There are parallels in many areas: a carefree mix of style and cultural influences characterizes the overall trends in the...
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Fabergé: Jeweler to the Tsars

Fabergé: Jeweler to the Tsars

Fabergé – the name carries special significance even today. It is inextricably linked with the glamour of pre-revolution Russia. Fabergé’s...
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The Jewelry of Reiko Ishiyama

The Jewelry of Reiko Ishiyama

The delicious paradox of quantum physics is that matter exists simultaneously as particle and as wave. Much of Reiko Ishiyama's...
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Goldmines, Goldrushes and Nugget Jewels

Goldmines, Goldrushes and Nugget Jewels

“…GOLD – EVERYWHERE THE GLINT OF GOLD.” THESE WERE THE WORDS RECORDED BY HOWARD CARTER TO DESCRIBE HIS INITIAL GLIMPSE...
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Champleve Jewelry – At The Turn Of A Wheel

Champleve Jewelry – At The Turn Of A Wheel

After experimenting with the various techniques of enameling I decided that champleve jewelry best suited my interests. Being very familiar...
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Peter Macchiarini: A Modern Bohemian

Peter Macchiarini: A Modern Bohemian

An article in the February 19, 1982 issues of the San Francisco Chronicle ironically suggests that "No body of water,...
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Classical Jewelry Design Revival

Classical Jewelry Design Revival

The classics never go out of style. Classicism as a design principle has come to mean simplicity, proportion, restraint, and...
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Olaf Martens: Masks and Facades

Olaf Martens: Masks and Facades

Masks & Facades – Perspectives on St. Petersburg is a book handling themes of jewelry and the pleasure of wearing...
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Virtual Engraving in Matrix

Virtual Engraving in Matrix

When using CAD/CAM products like Gemvision's Matrix, there are a number of "virtual" techniques to achieve renderings that more closely...
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Alberto Alessi

Alberto Alessi

When the Tea and Coffee Piazza was introduced to the US by the Max Protetch Gallery in the early 1980s,...
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Jewelry with Precious Stones

Jewelry with Precious Stones

What is a trend? It is easier to answer what it is not: a designer’s inspired idea, which brings immediate...
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Brazilian Colors Delight the World

Brazilian Colors Delight the World

A country whose flag is comprised of four different colors must love vivacity. Brazil and the Brazilians most certainly do....
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Jewelry as an Identity Vehicle

Jewelry as an Identity Vehicle

Growing variety defines Portugal’s still relatively young jewelry design scene, which draws on other applied arts. Portugal’s history of contemporary...
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Lapponia: Jewelry Art from Finland

Lapponia: Jewelry Art from Finland

The unique style of the designers Björn Weckström, Zoltan Popovits, Christophe Burger, and Pekka Hirvonen has been the creative imprint...
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Experimental Jewelry from Senegal

Experimental Jewelry from Senegal

Experimentelles Schmuck design (Experimental Jewelry Design) is the name of a project implemented by the Berlin-based painter and goldsmith Werner...
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Color-Change Garnet from Kenya

Color-Change Garnet from Kenya

Kenya s new color-change garnet performs miracles in different lighting environments. In fluorescent light, it looks the bluest any garnet...
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Joe Wood: The Manifest Idea

Joe Wood: The Manifest Idea

Joe Wood says he was first attracted to jewelry for its economy – the opportunity to focus a great deal...
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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Toronto

A Metalsmith’s Guide to Toronto

In the Ojibway language, Toronto means "meeting place." At this site on the northern shore of Lake Ontario 18th-century French...
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James Cromar Watt

James Cromar Watt

Editor’s Note: This is the full text of a speech, submitted by Florentina Nichols, given by Christine Hew at the...
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Master Metalsmith Robert von Neumann

Master Metalsmith Robert von Neumann

This article was completed just weeks before Robert von Neumann's accidental fall and subsequent death on April 23, 1984. Books...
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Elsa Freund on Elsaramic Jewelry

Elsa Freund on Elsaramic Jewelry

We are often drawn to the naïve sensibility of self-taught artists in any medium. The fresh, unassuming quality of their...
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Overcoming Lightweight Casting Challenges

Overcoming Lightweight Casting Challenges

It's no wonder that as precious metals prices have risen to new heights over the past few years, jewelry castings...
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Colored Gemstones on Men’s Jewelry

Colored Gemstones on Men’s Jewelry

Colored Gemstones on Men’s Jewelry is becoming a trend and may as will be dominating men's fashion as noted by  ...
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The Work of Jennifer Crupi

The Work of Jennifer Crupi

Cool, glistening, and vaguely human, Jennifer Crupi's sculpture and jewelry arouse curiosity even as they evoke fear. While the power...
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The Work of William Frederick

The Work of William Frederick

Daniel Pedersons planishing hammer came into the possession of William Frederick in a way that still provokes emotion. Pederson, a...
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Kim Rawdin: Philosopher Jeweler

Kim Rawdin: Philosopher Jeweler

In a poem of the T’ang dynasty, the cultivated man who eats his meal from a polished bowl gazes into...
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Renaissance Ring by Andrew Costen

Renaissance Ring by Andrew Costen

Known for his contemporary designs, Andrew Costen of Costen Catbalue in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, enjoys occasionally returning to his...
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The Work of Yuyen Chang

The Work of Yuyen Chang

Chang's work is intentionally anthropomorphic, disturbingly so. She likens her technique to that of a plastic surgeon, shaping and sculpting...
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Ulrich Freiesleben: Intrinsic Values

Ulrich Freiesleben: Intrinsic Values

The assumption the business economist and philosopher Dr. Ulrich Freiesleben invented two revolutionary new diamond cuts out of pure boredom...
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Wire Wrapping Enamel Pieces

Wire Wrapping Enamel Pieces

Everyone has long seen gems wrapped in small wire cages with hanging devices, and more recently, the Dichroic glass pendants...
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Redefining Fine Jewelry

Redefining Fine Jewelry

Ask someone to define "fine jewelry" and you'll usually hear something about gold, platinum, diamonds, and other traditionally "precious" materials....
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Forged Ring Shank

Forged Ring Shank

This article describes step by step instructions how forged ring shank is done as described by Bradney W. Simon. For...
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Pearl Earring Repair Using Mini Pulse III

Pearl Earring Repair Using Mini Pulse III

14-karat yellow gold cultured freshwater pearl and diamond earrings will be repaired as a demonstration of the new Mini Pulse...
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35 Years of Electrum Gallery

35 Years of Electrum Gallery

Electrum Gallery was founded by Barbara Carlidge in June of 1971. She was prompted by the significant changes in the...
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Felieke Van Der Leest

Felieke Van Der Leest

The idea that she should become a goldsmith actually came from her biology teacher. Could this be the reason why...
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Gilbert Poillerat

Gilbert Poillerat

Gilbert Poillerat French ironwork of the 1920s, as exemplified in the work of Edgar Brandt, represented a pinnacle of technical...
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The Jewelry Art of Lisa Gralnick

The Jewelry Art of Lisa Gralnick

Lisa Gralnick makes jewelry of rare power from imagined artifacts of our own time. Its extraordinary impact derives from her...
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Kum-Boo 24K Overlay on Silver

Kum-Boo 24K Overlay on Silver

Kum-Boo (rhymes with “loom low”) is a Korean appliqué technique of surface decoration in which pure gold foil is fused...
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Art and Technics: Technical Mastery

Art and Technics: Technical Mastery

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship...
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Perspective Watches

Perspective Watches

Skeleton watch movements are small chronomatic works of art. Made by hand, they demonstrate the high level of craftsmanship involved...
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College of Art in Lodz

College of Art in Lodz

Lodz is the second biggest city in Poland. It is renowned for being a center of the textiles industry which...
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Fascinating Caprioles of Nature Gemstones with Inclusions

Fascinating Caprioles of Nature Gemstones with Inclusions

Faults or miracles? In general, gemstones are held to be more precious if they have as little “contamination” with other...
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Architectural Portraits of Vicki Ambery-Smith

Architectural Portraits of Vicki Ambery-Smith

For nearly 30 years, Ambery-Smith has been using architecture as an inspiration for her work. Her name has become synonymous...
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Cecilie Hveding

Cecilie Hveding

I attended a school for goldsmiths in Norway and worked as an apprentice for a total of 3 years before...
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Andrzej Bielak: Goldsmithing in Poland

Andrzej Bielak: Goldsmithing in Poland

Andrzej Bielak emerged as a gallery owner from his production and design of jewelry. Together with his wife Barbara Kanska...
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Design Applications for Laser Engraving

Design Applications for Laser Engraving

Laser engravers can do wonders for a jewelry manufacturer's hallmarking process, making it more efficient and leaving a crisp, clear...
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Practical Approach to CAD/CAM

Once more the realm of engineers and number-crunchers, CAD over the years has become more user-friendly and artisan-intuitive. Similarly, small-shop,...
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Craftsmanship Improvement Method

This is a method to reduce technical problems which one repeatedly experienes. We all find during the learning process that...
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The Jewelry of Cynthia Eid

The Jewelry of Cynthia Eid

Standing in her forming studio, surrounded by hammers, stakes, and photo equipment, metalsmith Cynthia Eid is experiencing a moment of...
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From Titanium to a Fine Piece of Artisan Jewelry

From Titanium to a Fine Piece of Artisan Jewelry

Making prong settings for items that can not be fired in place. I would like to take you on an...
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The Hong Kong Design Institute

The Hong Kong Design Institute

The new campus is still a building site and will most likely not be ready for opening until 2009. However,...
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Chunghi Choo: The Energy Qi

Chunghi Choo: The Energy Qi

Chunghi Choo captures her joyful creativity in sensuous forms and beguiling surfaces, but, despite this sumptuousness, simplicity harmony and tranquility...
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Gem Creation and Enhancement

Historically gem possession has been reserved for wealthy, royalty, or high religious leaders. It has always been human nature to...
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Messages on Jewelry Designs

Messages on Jewelry Designs

As many and varied as the reasons may be to publicize a message or to make a very personal statement,...
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Robert Lee Morris: The End of an Era

Robert Lee Morris: The End of an Era Seventeen years ago Robert Lee Morris opened Artwear in the Soho section...
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The Use of Marketing and Policy Instruments

The Use of Marketing and Policy Instruments

While firms in the US have busied themselves for decades with marketing goals and tasks, the topic was first taken...
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Gaudy Feathers Jewelry Tickles the Senses

Gaudy Feathers Jewelry Tickles the Senses

Light and filigree, yet robust and elastic: feathers are one of nature’s true works of art. This magnificently colored dress...
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Metalsmith ’86 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

Metalsmith ’86 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1986 Spring issue of...