GZ Art+Design Spots 2006 3

Fall Trade Shows – Ordering for the Christmas Period

Jewelers, goldsmiths and specialist retailers are ordering on increasingly short notice. In times of economic uncertainty, consumer demand for new goods is significantly more spontaneous than in other times. This is why manufacturers and jewelry designers are enlarging their spring collections once more in the run-up to the high selling Christmas period or are joining the fashion business in distinguishing between spring/summer and fall/winter collections. Trade shows in the fall are becoming increasingly important as a central order opportunity. On an international stage, the International Jewellery London (IJL), Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair and the Scandinavian Gold-Silver-Watches Fair in Copenhagen are seen as the most important industry events in the fall.

GZ Art+Design 2006 3

The IJL takes place in the Earls Court Exhibition Center in London from September 3 to 6. It is the most important English show for the jewelry industry and is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Over 640 English and foreign manufacturers and designers, as Nina Ricci and Vivienne Westwood, present their new products to a specialist audience. In the Design Pavilion, young British talents and icons of jewelry design such as Sarah Jordan, Shaun Leane, Dower and Hall, Goodman Morris. Laura Tabor and Sam Ubhi present their latest ideas. www.jewellerylondon.com/

Asia’s largest industry event is the Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair from September 18 to 23. Over 2,300 exhibitors from 47 nations have already announced their participation. In total, the trade show management expects 40,000 visitors. Even the exhibition space, measuring over 80,000 square meters, sounds like a new record. The Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair is one of the world’s largest industry events. It is regarded as the most important show for cultured pearls, the second largest shop window for diamonds and gemstones and the highest selling order event in Asia. www.jewellerynetasia.com/exhibitions/

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The most important industry event in northern Europe is the Scandinavian Gold-Silver-Watches Fair, held in Copenhagen from August 24 to 27. Roughly 220 exhibitors show their latest products in the Bella Center, seven kilometers outside of the Danish capital. Last year, 8,244 visitors flocked to the show. It is seen as the gateway to the Scandinavian jewelry and watch market. Entry is free for specialist visitors with an invitation. www.gsu.dk

Other important fall events in Germany include the Tendence Lifestyle in Frankfurt am Main from August 25 to 29, the Midora in Leipzig from September 9 to 11, and the gemstone show Intergem in ldar-Oberstein from September 29 to October 2. www.messe-frankfurt.de; www.midora.de; www.intergem-messe.de * ahe

Magical Jewelry

Alraune, the German word for mandrake, is deemed to be magical and mysterious. Since antiquity, the root has been seen as a plant with special powers due to its particular form that resembles the human appearance. The extraordinary gems created by the jewelry manufacturer Alraune Lapidaries from Schwdbisch Gmünd also have magical effects that women just simply cannot resist. The fall/winter collection “Ivory & Ebony” by Alraune Lifestyle stands for classic modernity and timeless elegance. Precious freshwater cultured pearls adorn the necklace and the matching bracelet in the Ivory line, consisting of sterling silver rings. The design ideally suits the white trend in fashion. The necklace Ebony also has striking freshwater cultured pearls, incorporated in organza. The silky red, shining material contrasts perfectly with the velvety veneer of the cultured pearls. International Jewellery London, booth 291. www.alraune-lapidaries.com * ahe

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Ring for the Happily Divorced

Happily divorced! Why not sweeten the pain of separation with a beautiful gift as a thank you for the time spent together and as a promise for a future as friends? This was the idea that the Pforzheim-based designer Werner Häring had when he presented his Goodbye Ring. Almost every second marriage ends in separation, but many lead to friendship. This is a contemporary idea as a thank you for the understanding or as a symbol that the couple will remain close, as recognition for all that has been or as a gift for the passing of love. The Goodbye Ring with the broken heart made of platinum and an absolutely pure, white brilliant will help a fair number of partners in seeing the positive sides of separation. After all, it is always a new start. International Jewellery London, booth 538. www.wernerhaerinq.de * ahe

Objects of Desire

The line TeNo de luxx expresses what some men find hard to admit. After all, diamonds speak more than a thousand words. They show a woman how precious she is to her lover. But sparkling jewelry does not need to come in overloaded and pompous design. The collection combines new and timeless, simple design with a touch of glamour. There is a set consisting of necklace, ear pins and ring to match any occasion. Symmetry, created by geometric forms, is the typical trademark of TeNo and has been consistently continued in the TeNo de luxx jewelry line. Diamonds set in pavee style get the precious stones sparkling in a very special manner. As if attracted by magnets, the brilliant diamonds are gathered around ceramic surfaces, mother of pearl inlays or shining gold. The contrast between these different materials and the diamonds reflecting the light lends the jewelry a unique charisma, immediately transforming them into objects of desire. But not only the design, the high-quality craftsmanship of the jewelry objects also pays testimony to the lofty standards of quality. Finely satinated stainless steel offers space for different materials such as diamonds and ceramics, merging within the scope of a geometric play on forms. Gold-Silver-Watches, Copenhagen, booth E32 www.teno.de * ahe

Touching Emotions

The current monomania collections offer material variations, high-quality sets, united in a timeless design. In addition to fine, satinated stainless steel, one also finds the most precious of materials in the items of jewelry. Brilliants, genuine colored gemstones and pearls, 18 karat gold and precious resin combined with [mo] the symbol of emotion, product aesthetics and excellent workmanship are the ingredients for sales success. The manufacturer, the Lifestyle Group, is looking forward with monomania and its other brands to a successful Tendence Lifestyle Messe in Frankfurt and International Jewellery London, booth 716. www.lifestyle-group.biz * ahe

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Tendence Lifestyle Frankfurt hall 8, stand E93 International Jewellery London Fair, stand 716

The Foundry for Studios

Hordes of jewelry designers have waited a long time for this innovation: a compact casting system for small studios, that make high-quality casts economically. Indutherm has now launched this kind of casting system and also offers the complete equipment in order to make the first steps in the world of casting as simple as possible.

An entire foundry covering just a few square feet (on the table on the left): Vacuum mixer for bubble-free mixing of the investment slurry. The vibrator plate eliminates air pockets. The 950°C furnace for melting out the wax and firing the form. Mini casting system MC 15: sand blaster cabin for a perfect surface finish

Thanks to the high maximum melting temperature, it is possible to cast all metals – even platinum and steel – without difficulty. Material use for the button is minimal

The metal is filled into the crucible. The start button is pressed and the heating begins

The flask with the mold is removed from the furnace after a firing time of between one and three hours (depending on the type of investment powder)…

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…and placed in the casting chamber. Shut the lid, press a second button and the vacuum starts; just one or two minutes later and the material has melted…

…and is poured into the mold by a 90° rotation of the entire casting unit. The MC 15 automatically switches to overpressure after casting in order to optimize the mold filling

And the cast is finished! Immersed in cold water and the mold shatters away from the cast. Any ceramic residue is quickly removed using the sand blaster.

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Until now, there have been significant disadvantages connected to casting for crafts-orientated goldsmiths and jewelry designers. They had to outsource the work to a foundry and their process of creation was interrupted until the casts came back from the foundry. In addition to the high cost, the possible reproducibility did not conform to the principles of unique items. In general, studio casting was too complicated and far too expensive.

Rapid and simple casting

But now, the whole process of casting can be carried out simply, quickly and safely without any real prior technical knowledge of casting. The wax model is placed in a small flask and investment slurry is poured in around (the correctly dosed and bubble-free mixing of the investment slurry in a vacuum is child’s play in the small vacuum mixing device). The small vibrator plate eliminates any possible air pockets that may form when the investment slurry is poured in. The wax is melted off in the furnace and the form is fired. Handling of the mini casting system is also extremely simple: Fill in the material and heat up, insert the flask and close the machine. The device itself looks after all additional functions – until we got to the stroke of genius: Pouring off takes place using a 90° rotation of the casting unit. This construction idea means that indutherm was able to reduce decisively the number of moving parts and the required seals. This is not only the reason for the extremely attractive prize: few wear parts also mean durability and high economic efficiency.

Suitable for all metals

The 3.5 kW induction heating means that the material melts extremely rapidly in an atmosphere without oxidation. All metals – also platinum and steel – can be cast without difficulty. The crucibles are large enough to solve without any difficulty at all any standard casting task one would find in a studio or atelier. The flasks can also accommodate large jewelry parts. It is equally possible to melt and cast minimal amounts of metal. A significant factor for the economic efficiency is the low quantity of metal that must be calculated for the button. An innovative, automatic vacuum die cast method leaves no wishes unfulfilled in terms of mold filling for delicate parts. Even heavy objects can be cast without difficulty.

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The entire process is extremely fast, especially if the goldsmith uses so-called speed investment slurries. This enables rapid response to new models, fulfillment of express orders and the implementation of last-minute ideas, for example before a trade fair. www.indutherm.de * ahe

No-body Decoration at Lucca Preziosa

In the summer of 2005 the city of Lucca in Tuscany staged a wonderful exhibition, “Lucca Preziosa”, at which several of the most representative works by Peter Chang, Francesco Pavan, Peter Skubic and eight other artists were shown. In the light of this success, Lucca Preziosa could become a fixture on the calendar. In the meantime, the City of Lucca and the Le Arti Orafe Jewellery School are organizing the second “No-body Decoration”, the title of the exhibition (under the trusteeship of Maria Cristina Bergesio) which will open on September 22. It will be centering on a precise expository concept, the relationship between jewelry and the body. A relationship which each artist interprets subjectively: for Martinazzi or Rothmann the body is the iconographic motif which characterizes their works, for others it is the starting point of a process of abstraction which extends the traditional rules of jewelry as far as exploring their limits or even going so far as to reject them. It is sufficient to think of the prostheses as jewelry by Christoph Zellweger or the drinkable solutions of precious metals of Frederic Braham.

“Mouth Bar” by Naomi Filmer

Necklace by David Watkins

“Inner Beauty” by Frederic Braham. Homeopatic dilution, gold, silver, copper

Golden necklace “Europa” by Bruno Martinazzi

Armlet “Tholu Bandhi” by Ganjam’s Heritage Collection. India, 19th century

However, an original approach to the jewelry-body subject also characterizes the other artists whose work is on display, namely Bakker, Becker, Ben-Jacov, Peters, Schick and Watkins. With the backing of the City of Lucca and the Indian jeweler Ganjam, the exhibition was born of an initiative of Gid Carbone, the director of the Le Arti Orafe school, who is firmly convinced “that the training mission must also be aimed at the promotion of a modern jewelry culture”. Specifically centered on jewelry intended as a means of expression, the exhibition finds an apparent paradox in the subject selected by the secondary exhibition, at which twelve masterworks of Indian jewelry from the 800 belonging to the Heritage Collection of Ganjam will be shown which do not hide an exquisitely ornamental function. But this is only an apparent contradiction, because the decorativeness of the Indian tradition is imbued with great spiritual significance, and jewelry is experienced as an instrument for achieving harmony between body and mind.

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The initiatives of Giò Carbone, who runs an exhibition space in Florence dedicated to contemporary jewelry do not stop here: “Together with the City of Lucca we are opening a branch of the school in Lucca”, he adds. “It will be an academy for advanced studies of goldsmithery and design.” Meanwhile, we recommend a visit to the Lucca Preziosa exhibition, naturally in Lucca, in the Villa Bottini, from September 22 to October 22. www.luccaoreziosa.org * rob

Design of the Future, the Future of Design

Classic industrial design is gradually disappearing from the viewpoint of designers and consumers. New forms of design are being sought, implemented and developed. “Emotional design” is the new buzzword, playing with the consumers’ feelings and desires. From August 26 to December 3, 2006 in the Zeche Zoliverein/Essen, the exhibition ENTRY 2006 will focus on perspectives and visions of design. Architecture, design and urban planning deal with the transformed understanding of house, city and landscape and the question of “how will we live tomorrow?”. The discursive edition “Entry Paradise”, featuring contributions by internationally renowned designers, philosophers, sociologists and media theorists, is published to mark the exhibition. www.entry-2006.de * cete

Gerhard Seltmann, Werner Lippert (publishers) Entry Paradise – New worlds of design Birkhäuser Verlag 320 pages, 17 x 24 cm, 80 color images. Linen binding, available in German and English 29.90 euros / Fr. 44.90 ISBN 3-7643-7695-3 German ISBN 3-7643-7696-1 English

Finnish Design 2006

The Design Forum Finland actively promotes the competitiveness and development of Finnish industry and culture by means of design. This work seeks to improve the exposure of Finnish design and to increase the use and applications of design in industry. This is also the context for the latest publication by the design organization: The Finnish Design Yearbook 2006, which has a lovely look and feel and is also very informative, is a new overview of contemporary Finnish design. Published in English, the book addresses seven current themes: IMAGINE, EASE, FLOW, RESPECT, PLAY, DARE and SHARE revealing notable innovations, interesting businesses of promise and current phenomena in design. In addition to its theme articles, the field of design is presented through examples of specific cases, interviews with experts and special information items. www.designforum.fi * cete

Finnish Design Yearbook 2006 124 pages, in English, four-color illustrations, paperback ISBN 952-5627-02-0

Secrets and Insights

Richard W. Wise is a goldsmith and gemologist and travelled the world to learn about gemstones. In the gemstone trade the secrets were kept for thousands of years but Richard W. Wise found people who were willing to share their knowledge about gems. He learned from the source by travelling to the mines, he talked to gemcutters, dealers and gem experts. This way he was able to write a gem book with insights that astonish also the connoisseur. His book “Secrets of the gem trade” is a must have for the goldsmith, jeweler, gemologist, gem dealer and gemstone collector. Wise gives the reader a deep understanding about how the gem industry works. He explains the necessary steps for comparing the quality of gemstones. “Laboratories certify gemstones but unfortunately no one certifies laboratories,” warns Richard W. Wise. When buying gemstones, his advice is not to rely too much on certificates but to become a connoisseur. Richard W. Wise describes in his book fairly recent discoveries, such as tsavorite garnet, tanzanite and Malaya garnet. www.secretsofthegemtrade.com * cp

Wise, Richard W. Secrets Of The Gem Trade first paperback edition 2006, 275 pages, ISBN 0-9728223-8-0, 39.95 US-$ (hardcover edition 2003 ISBN 097282239-9, 79.95 US-$), published by Brunswick House Press

Museum Guide documents unique Collection

Roughly 2,000 exhibits in the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim form the impressive testimony to the development of jewelry over the last 5,000 years. Focusing on precious items from Antiquity, Renaissance, Art Nouveau and an impressive ring collection, this exhibition venue, the only of its kind in the world, is dedicated exclusively to the history of jewelry. The permanent exhibition is rounded off by an internationally renowned collection of modern jewelry from the last 50 years. The museum was reopened in spring 2006 following months of renovation. Marking this occasion, an extensive museum guide has been released by Arnoldsche Art Publishers, documenting the museum collection in word and picture. The guide is available with several different covers: the visitor can choose his favorite motif. www.schmuckmuseumpforzheim.de * cete

Cornelie Holzach Museumsführer Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim Arnoldsche Art Publishers 160 pages, 12 x 22 cm, 180 color pictures. Dust jacket brochure. Text in German and English. 9.80 Euros / SFr 15.00 ISBN 3-89790-238-9

First German TeNo Store Opens

The renowned manufacturer of high quality stainless steel jewelry and designer watches has now opened its own, first store in Germany. The Pforzheim-based company opened a TeNo Store in the spa town of Baden Baden on May 27. Since 2002, TeNo has used the concept of flagship stores to promote the image of the brand. The first store opened its doors in New York. There are now six TeNo Stores in the United States, three in Korea and one each in South America and France. Watches and jewelry by the brand manufacturers are available in over 22 countries. In future, these top-range stores will be used to hold image and sales promotion courses for the TeNo jeweler partners. The TeNo stores are intended to be more than just watch and jewelry businesses. They are rooms with a feel good concept, more galleries than businesses. The stores have an open design. Light and dark colors are presented in a skillful material mix: steel, wood and illuminated glass are the dominant features of the simple architecture. Expansive, illuminated wall-mounted image elements guide visitors past the showcases with jewelry and watches, leading them to the gallery with stainless steel table and room accessories along with choice room fragrances. A coffee bar in the middle of the room invites customers to linger for a while. TeNo Store manager Grit Dickmann believes that the corporate philosophy is implemented in the first German TeNo Store. “We want to give customers and visitors time and space to do what we propose with our slogan: discover your desire”. There are plans for three TeNo flagship stores in Dubai and two in Abu Dhabi. www.teno.de * ahe

“Ebb and Flow”: Jewelry and Photography

The exhibition “ebb and flow”, which will be shown from August 5 to September 17, 2006 in Gallery Maurer-Zilioli in Desenzano, Italy, unites two areas of design. The gallery owner Dr. Ellen Maurer-Zilioli has joined forces with the jewelry designer Karen Pontoppidan and the photographer Antje Hanebeck to put together the project. They each take the topic of “Travelling ” to provide impressions of the sea, lakes, water, reminiscences on holidays and crossroads between the present and the past – the endless ebb and flow of the seasons is the backdrop. Although Hanebeck’s motifs may suggest of carefree holidays, but the light and the montage techniques irritate the onlooker. Pontoppidan’s jewelry takes an ironic slant on the concept of beauty: Gemstones are nowhere to be seen, but observers will instead find other, astonishing ornaments such as sailing boats or fine traces of sand. www.maurerzilioli.com * cete

Triennale of North German Handicrafts

From May 14 to August 13, the Schleswig-Holstein Regional Museum in Gottorf Castle was the Mecca of handicrafts. At the Triennale of North German Handicrafts, craftsmen from Schleswig-Holstein, Mecklenburg Western Pommerania, Hamburg, Lower Saxony and Bremen exhibited over 250 pieces of work in the former stables of Complex 83. The exhibition featured items that can be worn, sculptures, innovative ideas and traditional roots. The presented items were selected by a jury of 10, required to choose from 550 submissions by 138 applicants. The national show has been running for over 10 years, and it is seen as the most important event in North Germany. The exhibition will also be on show at Güstrow Castle in Western Pommerania from September 3 to December 10. Marking the opening of the Triennale on May 14, the Handicrafts Prize 2006 was awarded to Caroline Rügge, who lives and works in Lübeck. She revealed considerable crafts and artistic versatility in her gold and silversmith work. For example, the material combination of papier mache and fine gold in her “Soul Receptacles” revealed a true love of experimentation. Her corpus work, for example the tea jars, playfully draw on the effects of the surfaces, lending due notice to the character of the material. The Innovation Prize for Handicrafts went to the Hamburg-based goldsmith A. Swantje Lemburg for her geometricjewelry objects. www.schloss-gottorf.de * ahe

“Rosebowl” by Sabine Kratzer

“3 Spindles in cocoons” by Eva Koj and Heike Manthey

Pomp & Glory – Europe’s Golden Age in the 19th Century

The spectacular exhibition Pomp & Glory – Europe’s Golden Age in the 19th Century – in the world cultural heritage Völklinger Hütte will run until December 10. The 230 exhibits from the period between 1830 and 1900 include 150 pieces of gold and silversmith work and 25 precious jewelry and ivory items. The years 1830 to 1900 were the most important period of revolution in the industrial states. Art and architecture were targeted at the past. The “old” styles such as classical antiquity were in demand. At the same time, there was an era of rapid technological advancement. The spirit of the present drew on the options offered by the new technology to create artworks that were inspired by bygone epochs. The emerging middle classes at the time dreamt of social grandeur and a royal lifestyle. This is mirrored in the masterpieces on show. Due to industrialization, citizens received the opportunity for the first time to break down old hierarchies and to rise to an equal level as the aristocrats. One example of this development is the golden unicorn dish owned by the Rothschild family. The members of the first European banking family Rothschild were renowned collectors; their palaces held a fairytale wealth of old and new treasures. The golden unicorn dish was one example. For a long time, it was believed to originate from the 16th century and it is a brilliant example of how the artists in the 19th century replicated the original from the past in their duplication work, above all in form and expression. It portrays an Amphritite, daughter of the water god Nereus. This so-called “saliera” (= salt barrel) is made of cast gold and is encrusted with emeralds and diamonds. www.voelklinger-huette.de * ahe

Kirsti Doukas Receives the State Design Prize

The goldsmith, Kirsti Doukas, Chief Designer at the Finnish design jewelry company Kalevala Koru, has been awarded the Finnish State Design Prize 2006 along with the 15,000 euro prize money. With this award, which is seen as one of the most important in Finland, she is honored for her broad field of work. “Last week has been like a dream to me. I can hardly believe this has happened to me,” said the designer happily after accepting the award in the Finnish governmental hospitality offices in Helsinki at the end of May. The prize is awarded annually by the Central Commission for Art, which is part of the Finnish Ministry of Education, responsible for awarding the most important prizes in the world of art. The company Kalevala Koru originally started with copies of museum pieces and has since built up a modern range of jewelry with strong design. Kirsti Doukas has been at the helm of the company as Chief Designer for seven years now. In addition to series work, Kirsti Doukas has also created numerous unique pieces, which have been and are on show in exhibitions in Finland and abroad. www.kalevalakoru.fi * cete

Kirsti Doukas, chief designer at Kalevala

Searching for Blue Art

Blue is clearly one of the most popular colors: Half of all Germans state that their favorite color is blue. Blue stands for permanence, faithfulness and harmony, for longing for home and also for faraway places. And blue is not always just blue – there are countless nuances between dark blue, blue grey, navy blue, turquoise blue, violet blue and milky blue… It is therefore no surprise that the Crafts Forum Hanover will place the main focus on the color blue for the summer exhibition 2007 (June 2-30, 2007), following the success of the exhibition “The Color White” (2003) and “Red!” (2005). For this purpose, exhibits from the field of applied arts are being sought from all fields of work, and the closing date for applications is January 31, 2007. All enquiries and submissions have to be sent to the following address: Dr. Sabine Wilp, Head of the Crafts Forum, Hanover, Berliner Allee 17, D- 30175 Hannover, wilp@hwk-hannover.de. The terms of participation can be downloaded under: www.hwk-hannover.de * cete

The Fine Line between Order and Chaos

From September 11 to 15, 2006, creative goldsmiths will have the opportunity to examine the mysteries of extremely thin wires for one week in the Munich Academy of Design under the specialist and material auspices of Giovanni Corvaja. The internationally renowned jewelry artist guides participants into the cosmos of thin and very fine wires. He shows the way how to achieve previously unseen work, in which it is difficult to believe that they are based on relatively simple techniques and a proper portion of patience. Giovanni Corvaja instructs the participants in the fundamental aspects of theory and practice in the production and processing of very fine wires made of gold and platinum. This provides participants with a broad field to experiment and to find inspiration for their work, and the challenge is to provide order for the chaos and then to unravel this order once more. The course fee is 320 euros; in addition to the workshop fees, there are also costs for precious metals. The course is held in English. Additional information and registration forms can be obtained from the Academy of Design, Mühldorfstraße 4, 81671 Munich, phone +49(0)89 450981 -63, e-mail: akademie.gestaltung@hwkmuenchen.de www.hwk-akademien.de * cete

New Trade Show with Prudent Foresight

The Association of Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA) is inviting industry representatives to attend a new trade show for jewelry producers. The MJSA Trade Show for Jewelry Making (TSJM) will be held in Providence, Rhode Island, on September 27 and 28. The TSJM addresses in particular all people involved in creative professions, ranging from designers to arts and craftsmen and even manufacturers in the region of New England. United beneath one roof, manufacturers of chains, strings, clasps, gemstones, pearls, tools, packaging, displays, software and other components and services present everything jewelry makers require for their trade. The selection of the trade fair venue was Providence, a truly prudent choice, if one considers the large number of jewelry makers in the slate of New England, along with “the long history of jewelry making in the area”, as the association MJSA announced. Advance bookings are free. www.mjsainc.com * cete

Extravagant Forms, Forged Easily

The speed at which a setting can be made is dependent on the suitable tools that are used. Punches and mandrels do a good job, but the small stake developed by William Fretz permits rapid and precise work. The tool can be used in a versatile manner for oval settings, settings in imaginative forms and for small receptacles. It can be used to form rectangular settings with sharp edges that only need to be soldered on one corner. It can also forge anticlastic forms. The wave shaped stakes required for this have to date only been available in a much larger size. The more practice a goldsmith has, the greater the number of forms he can create. In order to be able to level absolutely any form perfectly, the shape of the stake can be modified by forming it with old files and then polishing it to high gloss with sandpaper and a polishing wheel. In this, it is important to take note that every scratch remaining will be transferred into the precious metal. The stakes can be easily exchanged and placed in the supplied holder attached on the work bench William Fretz offers the stakes individually and in eight different sets, tailor made to suit the required stages of work. www.fretzgoldsmiths.com * cp

Delicate Objects made of Hard Metal Weave

The married couple Henriette and Martin Tomasi creates uniquely filigree jewelry and receptacle sculptures made of the finest of metal threads. Henriette Tomasi from Kronberg developed the technique ten years ago. Since 2000, she has worked on the art concept together with her husband in a studio. They have already received numerous awards for their work, among others the Talent Prize 2000, the Hesse State Prize 2001 and the Bavarian State Prize 2002. Her work has also been well received abroad; among others, she won the 1st prize in the Schoonhovener Silver Award 2002, the Italian Premio di Incentivazione Internova 2005 and a prize from the Polish jewelry Artist’s Association. Their works form part of a large number of public and private collections, among others in the Museum of Art and Crafts in Hamburg and in the Museum of Applied Art in Frankfurt am Main, along with the German Goldsmith House in Hanau. The Tomasis present their art to a broad audience in countless art shows and exhibitions. In addition, the artist couple is initiator and organizer of many projects and concepts. They designed a competition for upcoming artists in the Hochtaunus District, the Victoria Prize 2005; in 2004, they also founded the forum for international receptacle culture “Vessels”, which remains successful today. Henriette Tomasi has been a member of the jury in the Federal Association of Arts and Crafts since 2005. www.tomasi-kunstkonzepte.de * ahe

Museum Opens in New Glory

From September onwards, the decorative arts will be presented in an even more beautiful setting in France: The Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris will open in new glory on September 15. Apart from the historical period between the Middle Ages and the Contemporary World, the exhibited pieces also cover selected works by renowned manufactories, artists and creative professionals from all fields – valuable furniture, ceramics and glass, through to modern design. Names such as Lalique, Le Corbusier, Christofle and Boulle will not be missing. Since 2001 over one hundred specialists were involved in restoration work on the approx. 5,000 pieces in the permanent exhibition. The “Period Rooms” are a special feature: Artworks are presented in their original historical context, offering visitorsa special experience of art. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr * cete

Nouveau muse des Artz décoratifs, Paris

International Competition: Jewelry Based on Traditional Designs

Sieraad, the international Jewellery and Silver Design Fair, will be held from 7 to 10 December 2006 in the RAI exhibition and congress center in Amsterdam. The fair is the sole large-scale platform for designers and artists of high quality silverware and contemporary jewelry. This will be the fifth time that the Sieraad has been staged. On the occasion of this fifth anniversary the fair is holding a design competition under the title New Traditional Jewelry.

The basis is historic jewelry that once accompanied a traditional costume. Jewelry artists should select an item of traditional jewelry from the costume tradition and create a new form and/or application for it. Directing the attention of contemporary designers to authentic costume jewelry will serve to revitalize a dying tradition. New Traditional Jewellery lends a new significance to this jewelry.

There are two categories for potential participants: one is directed towards silver and jewelry artists with professional experience, the second is aimed at final-year students of art academies or apprentice gold or silversmiths at vocational schools.

Mecky van den Brink

Marian Sturkenboom

Sieraad

Marc de Regt

Beate Klockmann

Marije Geursen

Nominated works will be presented at the Sieraad 2006, as well as at least two (inter)national presentations during the course of 2007. The four best submissions in the first category will receive 750 g fine silver and 125 g 14 karat gold from the Schone company. The four best submissions from the second category will receive a stand at Sieraad 2006.

Each participant may submit a maximum of two jewelry designs. In addition to the design, participants should also submit a picture of the jewelry (e.g. a photo of the original costume with the original item of jewelry/accessory) that served as inspiration for the new design. An independent panel of experts will select fifty designs, of which forty will be nominated and implemented for the exhibition. There are no specifications regarding which materials are to be used for the jewelry. Closing date for the submission of concepts, drawings, photos etc. from silversmiths and goldsmiths is 23 September 2006. Those nominated by the jury must submit their works by 15 November. Close of submission for jewelry designers is 1 November 2006 (date of postal stamp). Participation forms: www.sieraad2006.nl * ahe

AGTA Spectrum Awards – call for entries

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) is accepting entries for the annual AGTA Spectrum Awards and Cutting Edge Awards competition through September 22, 2006. All jewelry designers and lapidary artists throughout the United States and Canada can participate. One does not have to be a member of the AGTA to enter. Any jewelry produced after October 2005, and not previously entered into an AGTA competition, may be entered. Entries must be finished pieces; no drawings will be accepted. The awards competition spotlights natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls. Spectrum Award categories include Classical, Brida, Day, Men’s and Evening Wear. There are two special divisions within the AGTA Spectrum Awards for honoring artful, trendsetting jewelry and for honoring outstanding jewelry appropriate to be manufactured in production quantities. The AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity of the lapidary arts in six categories. Winning pieces are displayed at major trade shows. Winning an award in this competition is considered one of the industry’s most esteemed honors due to the rigorous judging process and caliber of entries. A cocktail reception for the nation’s top fashion/accessory editors, stylists, producers and costume designers will be hosted in conjunction with the awards competition. Every piece entered will be on display during the event. This creates an excellent opportunity for designers and lapidaries to gain exposure for their art. For additional information regarding rules and conditions, entry forms, dates, judging and eligibility, please contact Joyann Schalk at +1-800-972-1162 or visit www.agta.org * cp

2006 Spectrum Award, First Plce, Category Evening Wear. Thomas Dailing Designs

Award for Excellent Enamel Work

Striking colors are united with fairytale forms: The goldsmith Antje Mokroß from Salzgitter, Germany creates magical jewelry using the traditional technique of enamel cloisonn6. Fine wires create cells in the enamel surface, thus constantly forming new patterns. Antje Mokroß has already established herself on an international level with this – this year for the second time in succession, the 36-year-old received the Award of Encouragement as part of the International Cloisonné Jewelry Contest in Tokyo. Now that just has to be a motivation … www.antjemokross.de * cete

by GZ Art+Design

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