Collect 2006 – discover the art of collecting
The third Collect will take place at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London from 9 until 13 February 2006. Organised by the British Crafts Council, Collect is the only art fair in Europe that showcases the very best of contemporary applied and decorative arts from around the world. As always at Collect, the very best works in glass, ceramics, textiles, silver and fine metal work, wood, furniture and art jewelry by leading artists from around the world will be on display and available to buy from a selection of the world’s best specialist galleries. The 42 galleries exhibiting at Collect 2006 are representing artists from all over the world. Different styles and schools are displayed under one roof. All objects are available to buy. All are highly collectables from rapidly rising stars. These include the art jewelers Wendy Ramshaw and Dorothy Hog.
The Crafts Council will be co-ordinating an expanded programme of events for contemporary
craft collectors and those thinking of starting a collection. Details of exhibiting galleries and the
accompanying programme of events are posted on the website www.craftscouncil.orq.uk/collect ahe
Aninka Harms platinum necklace won the second prize in the “PlatAfrica Competition 2005” and a special award for the most innovative use of platinum. This necklace weights 90 grams of pure platinum, and consists of paper thin platinum cups that can move and adjust according to the wearers movements. The metal is treated with a shimmering satin finish and spot polished here and there for sparkling effects. The piece is designed and made by Aninka Harms herself. The theme for the competition was “Platinum vows”, and was interpreted in this piece as follows: The theme of vows was interpreted in an abstract way. The neckpiece basically functions on a knot principle – at every link of the chain, a knot is made in platinum cables, symbolising a vow, a promise made. Where the knot is made, a flowerlike cup of platinum grows. www.aninkaharms.com * ahe
A cuckoo moment
A “cuckoo moment” is an innovative line of accessories. The client base now includes the hottest fashion labels. Lia is the soul of the jewelry line. It defines the task of merging fashionable trends with creative ideas in order to create chains, bracelets, rings and belts that carry its own, specific signature. www.a-cuckoo-moment.de * kph
A new manual has recently been published in collaboration between the Ganoksin Project, founded in 1996, and the MJSA/AJM Press, a Division of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America. It is divided into ten chapters describing jewelry techniques for a flexible shaft and its components. “Making the Most of Your Flex-shaft” attempts to close all the grey areas of knowledge concerning innovation in the application and use of the flex-shaft over the last two decades, especially in the fields of finishing, drilling and cutting of all types of materials. All too often, jewelers don’t know how to take full advantage of the flax-shaft capabilities. This book will help to change that. The author, Karen Christians, has done a masterful job presenting the intricacies of the flex-shaft in clear, concise prose (as well as taking the bulk of the photos), at least according to Dr. E. Aspler, Founder of the Ganoksin Project, and Rich Youmans, Director of Communication of the MJSA/AIM in their foreword. “Making the Most of Your Flex shaft”, ISBN 0-9713495-6-8. www.mjsainc.com or www.ganoksin.com * cete
Treatises on the art of goldsmith work by Benvenuto Cellini
How did artists and craftsmen in the 16th century work, what techniques did they use and what could still be of interest today? Benvenuto Cellini’s Treatises on the Art of Goldsmith Work and Sculpture (1568) represent a compendium of studio experience by one of the most important goldsmiths of the Renaissance. In them, Cellini lends his own stamp to the artistic demand that had arisen in the Early Renaissance, whereby one’s own technical skills must be recorded for contemporaries and successors. The text is available in German once more in a translation published in 1974 with a commentary by Erhard Brepohl. The techniques dealt with are easy to understand with the aid of numerous line drawings and photographs, thus rendering Cellini’s studio experience useful in a practical sense. www.boehlau.de * kph
From the early iron clock to wristwatches
The first edition of the watch book “From the early iron clock to wristwatches” by Renate Moller was published roughly ten years ago. This has since grown into a 22-volume series of books by the Deutscher Kunstverlag. It is a combination of introduction, picture book, reference manual and prize catalog. The work is an informative and optical enrichment for novices and also for buyers, dealers and art enthusiasts. In addition to current market prizes, it a so forms a summarized form of basic know edge on the topics of technical backgrounds, history of measuring time and the styles of large and small watches. ISBN 3-422-06483-4. www.kunstbuecher-online.de * kph
International Crafts Trade Fair – goldsmiths exhibit their work
Unique work by goldsmiths from all over the world is on show once more at the International Crafts Trade Fair in Munich. For the 47th time, the Gesellschaft fur Handwerksmessen mbH will be holding a special jewelry show. It is one of the most important events on the international jewelry scene, held from March 16 to 22, 2006, on the grounds of the New Trade Fair in Munich within the framework of the I.H.M. This year, Ruudt Peters, Professor at the Art Academy in Stockholm, and internationally renowned jewelry artists from the Netherlands, were asked to select the participants. The applicants were 400 goldsmiths from a total of 30 countries. 63 goldsmiths from 21 countries were selected at the start of October 2005. The important criteria for the jurors were a consistent signature and a coherent principle of design. Like in every year, the special jewelry show will exhibit the personal taste of each individual juror. There will be a focus this year on the Scandinavian countries.
The nineteen seventies special show will also include a retrospective in honor of the American artist Thomas Gentille, who influenced developments in the jewelry world with his work. Indeed, his oeuvre combines sculpture and painting, and he is therefore to be considered an artist belonging to minimal art.
An important date within the framework of the special show is the award of the Herbert Hofmann Prize for exemplary work by contemporary goldsmiths on March 18. This is also the day on which the jewelry lectures are held. After the lectures, the international goldsmiths convene in order to network, bringing together students, professors, collectors, gallery owners, museum employees and jewelry enthusiasts from all over the world.
The success of the special show as a magnet for the jewelry world encouraged the jewelry galleries, the Pinakothek der Moderne in Munich and the Jewelry Museum in Pforzheim to open their new events on this weekend. The fact that the Museum of Arts and Design will exhibit the Munich jewelry show in New York from May 18 to September 3 shows how large the international attention is for this special show This will be the first major, international jewelry presentation in the United States. www.ihm.de * ahe
Shining facets of South Africa
Within the framework of the evening function with the title “Shining Facets of South Africa” on December 13, 2005, Gary Ralfe, Managing Director at the De Beers Group was guest of honor at the South African Embassy in Berlin. The Soweto Gospel Choir performed as part of the event sponsored by the DTC (Diamond Trading Company, the trade and marketing subsidiary within the De Beers Group). Drawing on participation by the DTC, the company wants to draw attention to its South African roots, thus referring to the social welfare activities within the group under the motto “Living up to diamonds”. De Beers actively supports the African mining nations in their socio-economic development. For example, De Beers is involved in providing sustainable improvements to the situation of communities plagued by the HIV virus. In recognition of this engagement, the group recently received the Business Excellence Award from the World Trade Organization in Washington. The Soweto Choir is made up of the most talented singers from the countless communities around Soweto and also supports projects to tackle Aids. The highlight of the event was the presentation of the “616 diamond”, the largest uncut diamond in the world. The stone from the Dutoitspan Mine in Kimberly, South Africa, was on show in Germany for the first time. It had previously been exhibited in the Natural History Museum in London. www.dtc.com * ahe
Fine tools and workshops
Dick GmbH in Metten/Southern Germany offers its customers the whole world of fine tools – and much more – in person and on the Internet. Under www.dick.biz, friends of the extra special can find Europe’s largest collection of Japanese manual tools – including a large selection of blades and cooking knives. The company from Lower Bavaria also has materials for handicrafts such as mother of pearl, precious wood, fish leather, paints, specialist literature and expert services in its extensive range of products. In a large number of extraordinary courses and workshops such as boot or bow making or techniques of shellac polishing, Dick GmbH shows its customers all the beautiful things one can create with and through the material. For example, the workshop “Processing fish leather”, the crafts techniques used by the Nanai are presented for the first time in Central Europe. The tanned fish leather is rendered soft once more by treading, pulling and ironing and then processed as the course participants deem fit. The company makes its own fish skin thread for sewing. On request, knife grips can also be covered. The course lasts 16 hours and takes place from April 24 to April 25, 2006. Registrations for this and the numerous other courses can be made under www.dick.biz * cefe
Ambiente 2006 – world cup of the consumer goods industry
There is a clear motto to the days between February 10 and 14, 2006: kick off for the Ambiente 2006, the worlds most important consumer goods fair- the “World Cup” of the industries relating to set tables, kitchen appliances, household items, gift items, jewelry and home accessories. For five day, the top players in the consumer goods world will present the most innovative and trendy product ideas on a pitch measuring 190,000 net square meters in Frankfurt/Main – a surface equal to 27 football pitches. Under the umbrella brand of the Ambiente, the world’s leading trade fair Giving presents the whole world of gifts and also the most beautiful, original and zany fan and gift items relating to football to mark the occasion of the World Cup 2006. Volker Albus, Professor for product design at the Design Academy in Karlsruhe (HfG), is focusing with sporting endeavor on the topic of soccer in the special show “Goal!ssimo” (Hall 5.0). “If it is true for soccer players that the truth is revealed on the pitch, then designers have to follow the rule that the truth is revealed in what people like”, says Albus. “For many designers, the tense field between mass for global merchandising and class for the true enthusiasts is a real challenge.” “Goal!ssimo” shows how mass products are created without drifting offside in the quality of design.
The “Carat” section has sparkling eye catchers on offer. Manufacturers of genuine and high quality costume jewelry will be showing their latest precious items in Forum 0 and in the Banquet Hall. “The demand from exhibitors in the jewelry sector has risen sharply,” reports Anja Carmanns, Object Manager at Ambiente. “The available surface space has been capacity booked, so that we were unfortunately unable to cater to all comers.” But the following will be showing, among others: Alfred Schmiesing, Lunemann, Langani with the black pearls, Pilgrim, Horwitz-Hamburg, Kreuchauff Design, Theo Fashion-Konplott, Coeur de Lion, Kolsters – Stones in Style and A Ruppenthal.
Designing with natural elements – earth, water, air and fire: the four elements embody the basis of all life, forming the foundation for many old philosophies, theories and fairytales. At Ambiente, they are topic and title of an exhibition entitled “Design 4 Elements – Contemporary Swedish Design”. In the foyer to Halls 5.1/6.1, the installation shows current creations by Swedish designers and places them in a relation to the four natural elements. The exhibition will be opened on Friday, February 10, by the Swedish Minister of Culture, Leif Pagrotsky. www.messefrankfurt.com * ahe
Sotheby’s and Steinmetz – joint jewelry collection
The renowned auction house Sotheby’s and the Steinmetz Diamond Group recently founded a joint venture for the sale of precious diamond jewelry. The first joint collection was presented in Hong Kong and New York in December. The prizes for the luxury gems start at 50,000 US dollars, while the premium items can fetch prizes of up to five million US dollars. The joint distribution channel should profit from the expertise of the diamond specialist Steinmetz and the global customer base of the auction house. Among jewelry and watch enthusiasts, Sotheby’s is seen as the top address for absolute rarities. The new jewelry line will be sold in auctions and private sales. For direct sales, Sotheby’s will draw on its Salon Privé. Steinmetz has sold rare and valuable items through Sotheby’s for many years. The pieces included a diamond of over 100 carats, auctioned in Geneva for 16.5 million US dollars the highest prize ever achieved for a diamond in an auction. www.sothebys.com * ahe
Amber manufactory in new hands
Effective as per January 1, the business operations of the Stuttgart-based Amber Manufactory will be taken over by the firm Fietkau in Pforzheim. The managing director of the Stuttgarter Bernstein Manufaktur (Stuttgart-based Amber Manufactory), J. Verhelmann, is retiring and is thanking all of his customers herewith. The Stuttgart-based Amber Manufactory (formerly Köllner & Co.) will experience growth in the amber collection as a result of the takeover. The models are updated and enhanced with silver and gold jewelry. In the necklace sector, the new designer necklace collection will be presented at Inhorgenta Europe, specially designed to suit the desires of the young generation. Furthermore, the amber cabochon section will also be enlarged in order to lend additional options to the manufactory. www.stuttgarterbernsten.de or www.perlen-edelsteine.de * ms
Fifteen years Gallery Slavik in Vienna
Fifteen years ago Renate Slavik made a fundamental decision. She gave up her shop of antiques, and started a new initiative in founding. In art gallery, the domain of which should be in the field of jewelry. Renate Slavik approached the brothers Tomas and Edmund Hoke to design a unique gallery and open it with the exhibition of a harmonising jewelry.
Edmund Hoke as an architect but even educated jewelry-designer at the International Summer Academy in Salzburg was the ideal person for constructing a room with running show-cases on steel rails, being moveable into any direct of and thus having the possibility of a transparent jewelry presentation. The construction was carried out by the metal and jewelry-designer Karl Vonmetz. So the presentation of jewelry was the aim of all persons involved. With its permanently turning metal disc above the entrance at the outside – being as well the symbol for the precious material of gold as for the sun – the gallery is a landmark in Himmelpfortgasse number 17 in the City of Vienna.
After the partially mutual planning by the brothers Hoke, nothing seemed more appropriate for the gallery premiere than to show works of the architect’s brother, of Tomas Hoke. In the jewelry premiere show Tomas Hoke could also demonstrate his metal sculpture ambitions beside his innovative jewelry-designs.
From the very beginning through the history of the Gallery Slavik it was endeavouring to attain a top class in the artistic jewelry sector. Thus in the first months works by the Italian Giampaolo Babetto were shown. Many great names of the international scene, whom we now consider as the “grand old masters” appeared in the sequence of the year. Works by Hermann Jünger, Yasuki Hiramatsu, Joaquim Capdevila, Giuseppe Corvaya, Erico Nagai and Francesco Pavan followed in renowned personal exhibitions. But besides also jewelry objects made out of precious materials were presented, just like the plates and jugs of Peter Verburg or the gold chalices by Joaquim Capdevila with their widespread symbolic character. Not only well known names should appear but also newcomers should be given a chance. So in the course of the years internationally renowned Austrians like Peter Skubic, who is to be integrated among the “grand old masters” too, Helfried Kodré, Anna Heindl, Jacqueline Lillie, Fritz Maierhofer and Elisabeth Defner but also young dynamic newcomers and the Germans Michael Becker, Daniel Kruger, Gabriele von Pechmann, Kristine Lorbeer, Sabine Hauß, Claudia Baugut, Rainer Schumann, Kerstin Becker and many others more were exhibited at Gallery Slavik.
In the jubilee exhibition Gallery Slavik showed a spectrum from the North represented by Salima Thakker from Belgium to the South in the person of Annamaria Zanella from Italy, being a protagonist of the “Padua School”. Her works indulge in sculptural expressions. Recently Renate Slavik founded a prize to be awarded yearly for temporary artistic jewelry at the Grassi Museum in Leipzig. The prize has now been given for the third time. It is the aim of the Gallery Slavik to promote young artists for their unconventional, avant-garde jewelry designs and encourage them to follow their ideas in the future. www.galerie-slavik.com * fl
Luxury Byzantine arts of antiquity
The major exhibition brings to London for the first time an extraordinary collection of classical Greek, Roman and Byzantine luxury artworks from The State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, including finely decorated silver and gold, Athenian red-figure vases and exquisite cameos. These objects, which have seldom been seen outside Russia before, tell a little-known story of the development of art and civilization over more than a thousand years, from 6th century BC Greece to the Middle Ages, and they overturn familiar assumptions about the period. The road to Byzantium: Luxury arts of antiquity will be on show at the Hermitage Rooms, Somerset House, London, from March 30th to September 3rd, 2006. www.hermitagerooms.org.uk * kph
The trade fair for amber, jewelry and gemstones is being held in Gdansk for the 13th time from March 15 to 18, 2006. The organizer – the Gdansk International Trade Fair – expects over 450 exhibitors from all over the world. Last year, 8,260 specialist visitors from 37 countries attended the trade fair. The growing number of exhibitors each year was the reason for the construction of a new hall. Traditionally, the trade fair is divided into three sectors: the Golden Hall – this is where jewelry, gemstones and watches are presented; the Amber Hall and Amber Pavilion – gold and silver jewelry with amber, decoration and household objects made of amber, and the Technical Pavilion – with machines and tools for the jewelry industry.
Each year, two important jewelry competitions run concurrently with the trade fair: the international Elektronos and the national Mercurius Gedanensis. The topic of the Elektronos this year is “inclusion” and invites contestants to take a look inside the stone. The competition has long since secured an established position, as we see in the large number of foreign participants and also participation by well-known figures from the Polish and international goldsmith scene on the jury.
Amberif is the world’s largest showcase for design jewelry made of and using amber and also one of the most important platforms to present design jewelry made of silver – both long since Polish calling cards in the international goldsmith world. Gdansk is “the” meeting point for the Polish goldsmith scene: this is where presentations are held by most designers (including members of the internationally operating Goldsmithing Artists’ Association) and also by design and goldsmith schools; talented young artists also exhibit here, compete for prizes in jewelry competitions and also display their award-winning work. Amberif is the occasion for an art show by the most famous Polish groups of artists – Group Six, whose members have presented their artistic messages on a certain topic during the trade fair for 4 years now. www.amberif.pl * as
Jewelry module kubus – different every time
Every woman is familiar with the situation when she doesn’t know what to wear. Above all, it is often not easy to find the right jewelry to match the outfit. This is where the jewelry module system Kubus by the gold and silversmith Thomas Heinz offers a solution. 20 golden cubes and navette-shaped clasps are found in a Plexiglas dice. This enables women to take the elements and form long chains to suit the current wardrobe. The clasps can be pressed together and inserted through the cubes. A lock fitted in the middle of each cube provides hold. This means that each element of the chain also acts as a clasp. The clasps and cubes are sufficient for two short chains, offering an attractive variation when pleated together. The jewelry module also contains two special stainless steel clasps, with which one can wear one cube as an earring or pin. The jewelry module Kubus has already been awarded with the Form 2003 and 2004 Prizes. www.thomas-heinz.de * ahe
iF Product design awards 2005 issued
“Design instead of marketing” was the demand raised by the jury in the iF Product design award 2006 as it issued the coveted iF label to 689 products for good design. In the iF concept award “Product”, 20 students can celebrate commendation for their work and are encouraged to design less using the computer. 1,952 entries from 37 nations were submitted to the three-day jury meeting on the trade fair grounds in Hanover, thus generating heated debate among the experts. In addition to the 689 products that received the iF stamp of approval in 12 categories, 50 entries also received the iF gold award, so as to speak the design Oscar. The awards ceremony will take place at the Cebit in January 2006. A list of all prize winners can be found under www.ifdesign.de * ahe
iF design award 2006 for Dacapo by Niessing
Once again, the Vreden-based jewelry manufactory Niessing has come home with one of the most renowned European design prizes for one of its products. The playful necklace jewelry Dacapo will receive the iF design award 2006. Dacapo combines the classic Niessing cord with one single jewelry element, which also doubles as the clasp. Other elements made of gold, platinum or mother of pearl – with or without brilliant – are positioned randomly along the cord. Depending on taste, the piece of jewelry can be presented in different ways: in a Y form or as long or short necklace jewelry. The creative moment and the unusual clasp solution for the chain convinced the international jury at the iF International Forum Design in Hanover. For over 50 years, iF has been seen as a globally recognized trademark for excellent design. This year, a total of 2,000 products from 37 countries competed for the coveted award in the various categories. www.niessing.com or www.ifdesign.de * cete