Jewelry with Precious Stones

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By Peter HenselderMore from this author

What is a trend? It is easier to answer what it is not: a designer's inspired idea, which brings immediate and great sucess. Trends are more a mixture of creative, spontaneous ideas and long-term developments. The range of jewelry with colored stones is characterized by this process of bringing together existing ideas with the latest concepts to form something new.

precious stones
"Maui" ring, from the "Jewelry Laboratory" series, 18 karat yellow gold with Swiss topaz and dark orange synthetic. By Monika Seitter, Gellner
"Egerie" Ring with amethyst and diamonds in white gold, by Joia
Gold rings with lemon quartz and amethyst, by Cédé
Color flash: loud colors - clear design. Pendants in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with large colored stones in an intoxicating color range, by Bunz

On the one hand, the age-old myths surrounding precious stones have lost none of their magical power. And they are connected with the ever-increasing desire for color. "Color is simply good for us," says the French designer Dominique Pétot, who creates colorful furnishings influenced by African artisans at his workshop in Senegal. In their combination with European design traditions, his designs go far beyond simple imitation of African motifs.

Pendant and ring with colored gemstones, by Kemter
Princess ring and pendant with kunzite and amethyst in 18 karat white and yellow gold, by Erich Zimmermann
"Margot" rings in 18 karat yellow gold and resin with citrine, peridot and pink tourmaline, by André Bénitah Créations
Amphora brooch 18 karat yellow gold brooch with onyx, diamonds and coral, by Marchak
Earrings and pendant with citrine, topaz, and rhodolite, by Milo
A wealth of colors: sapphires from Madagascar and Sri Lanka, fine mandarin garnets, Mali garnets, and tsavorite, by Groh + Ripp

Proponents of ethnic style in jewelry also orient themselves frequently toward the Dark Continent. The accessories that come from these ancient cultures with their independent senses of identity, usually unique pierces, have unique ways of radiating a closeness to nature and life-affirming vitality that fit ideally with all aspects of the current leisure look. Fashion titles such as Vogue, Elle, Madame, and Elegance have published enthusiastic reports, not only in Europe, but also throughout the West, on the march to victory of these expressive jewelry creations. Materials such as glass, wood, natural stone, animal bones, coral, and silver communicate the deepest emotional experience of originality and vivid individuality. Color is once more becoming an entirely essential factor in current design: the sense of being spoken to by color can be a reason for an impulse purchase. For psychologists, this is considered a means to overcome the deep-seated pessimism that has spread in recent years.

"Pope Pius" pendant: large cross with belcher chain and large "Pope Pius" ring. Gold-plated sterling silver, garnets, and cultured freshwater pearls. By Drachenfels
"Charlotte" jewelry system: basic rings made of stainless steel with garnet and yellow gold inlay, by Ehinger-Schwarz
"Azurée" earrings and "Astoria" pendant: white gold with acquamarine, turquoise, iolite, and diamonds, by Brigitte Salomon
"Lestret Line": a classic has returned - a way to be perfectly fashionable, wearing cufflinks that are timeless and perfect for every situation. By De Percin
Rings, 18 karat yellow gold, citrine, peridots, brilliant-cut diamonds (FW-si.), 18 karat white gold, amethyst, treated topaz, brilliant-cut diamonds (FW-si.). By Buchwald
Ring, pendant, and earrings, sterling silver with zirconia, by Engelkemper

There has been much speculation in numerous scientific investigations about the psychological effects of colors. Clear, definitive results were, however, not attained. Investigations of the effects of color returned time and again to individual elements that each person carries inside him- or herself. One thing remains undisputed: that colors have effects. And also that it is always particular colors that find greatest favor among consumers.

Necklace, 18 karat yellow gold, tourmaline, citrine, aquamarine, iolite, amethyst, peridot, brilliant-cut Wesselton diamonds (si). By Dhandia
"Childhood Treasures Collection": rings, pendants and earrings, playful, cut, delicate, in bright, tangy colors - white or yellow gold, blue or pink sapphires, tsavorite, white diamonds, mandarin garnets. By Patrick Lionnet
Cross with chain, Swarovski crystal, Hollander Bros.
Ring: 9.5 g platinum and 18 karat white gold with 4.13 ct Burmese ruby cushion, not heated, and diamonds, by Marcel Poncet
"Roses" white gold rings with diamonds and garnet rhodolite, by Bellon et Fils

Cool, hard, deep blue is not currently in high demand. Warmth, homeliness, and well-being are called for, all of which are associated more with colors such as red, orange, green, and earth tones. This fits seamlessly into the design renaissance of the 1960s. Verner Panton, a Danish designer, developed the most important trend-setting designs for living spaces at that time. Their intensity of color was intended to transform people's feelings into a sense of well-being; in color, Panton always saw an argument that was important, sometimes even more so than form. He developed his living ambiences as a conscious contrast to the bourgeois white and beige.

Necklace fastener with handmade Byzantine chain. Aquamarine navette in 18 karat white gold, by Hans-Jürgen Druglat
Platinum ring with 3 square-cut morganites and brilliant-cut diamonds, by Jochen Pohl
"Koodi" series with striped gold and topaz by Kirsti Doukas, Kalevala
Aquamarine pendant, 302 ct, 18 karat yellow gold with crumpled gold soldered on, unique item, by Adelgard Frehmann
"Lotus" white gold ring, set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.62 ct TW) and 1 aquamarine, 13.75 ct, by Roger Mathon
Wearable luxury: opal with brilliant-cut diamonds, 18 karat yellow gold, by J.+W. Roth

In contrast to the great upheaval of the 1960s, the people of today see color, form, and function as a single unit. In this way, platinum jewelry asserts itself as the polar opposite of the trend toward black and white, while also being opposite to the feminine, nostalgic-seeming style of dress that defined summer 2003. Theatrical tips in violet and jade-green exude a modern retro charm. Platinum, above all in combination with diamonds and colored stones, fits well with this look. Rings that capture the attention, or ultra-feminine earrings with colored stones: platinum once more shows off the quality for which it became famous approximately one hundred years ago, when Louis Cartier discovered the characteristics of the valuable precious metal in combination with precious stones. Colored stones in impressive sizes display all their beauty and hint at their origin. Alongside the clear, light blue of aquamarine, strong colors such as a warm, deep red or a self-confidently luminous orange assert themselves. The recently arisen popularity of theme jewelry has expanded into an absolute boom. This year, talismans and good luck motifs are high in popularity.

"Venus" ring in rhodium-plated sterling silver with blue topaz, by Thierry Mugler
Tourmaline-colored zirconia with brilliant-cut diamonds, set in silver, by Rivoir
Rings, 18 karat white gold, Tahitian cultured pearls, aquamarine drops, and naturally colored brilliant-cut diamonds, by Clemens Leyendecker
Heart necklace with multicolored stones and 57 diamonds in white gold, by Ballet
Rings, 18 karat white gold, quartz, topaz; upper two each with 28 brilliant-cut 0.28-ct diamonds, lower ring with 36 0.22-ct brilliant cut diamonds. By Oeding-Erdel

The jewelry designer Ulrike Weyrich, from ldar-Oberstein, recommends four main trends for the lovely, muted colors of autumn and winter and the play with ornamental motifs: Bordeaux first. A color that shows to even better effect when combined with accessories that brighten it. Light, apricot-rose pearls, copper-colored pearls, rhodochrosite, garnet, rose quartz, and red tourmaline create a striking tone-on-tone mélange. New trends are being set by Andean opal in rosé.

Necklace: 18 karat yellow gold, coral, by Marco Borghesi
Pendant with jasper, by Marc O'Polo
"Redis" necklace: coral broken up by gold-plated sterling silver pieces. By Bernd Wolf
Ring in 18 karat yellow gold, platinum, with 5.17-ct spessartine and 0.13-ct diamond baguette. By Jutta Munsteiner
Pendant with citrine and brilliant-cut diamonds, by Odenwald

Among the brown tones are faceted spheres made of mandarin garnet or spessartine, and pearls to match. Carnelian, red tiger's eye (revival), fire opal, and smoky-citrine quartz also effectively complement the color brown.

1994 bracelet, 18 and 21.6 karat gold, 12 segments of emerald root crystals, 25 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.88 ct TW). By Karl-Heinz Reister
"Mirra Collection": yellow and white gold, brilliant-cut diamonds and citrine. By Ponte Vecchio
Necklace: natural agate sheets, mandarin garnet, 18 and 21.6 karat yellow gold. By Ulrike Weyrich

The topic of China calls engravings and ornaments into discussion. Cut crystal with Chinese engravings, jade engravings, coral, and onyx are the preferred materials. Very current: black tourmaline in green quartz or green pearls.

Line Shizen: "Parfois Clair de Lune" ring. Rhodium-plated sterling silver with lemon quartz, by Kenzo
"Krake" ring: 18 karat yellow gold with amber, 227 ct, 4 brilliant-cut diamonds W/si, 2.09 ct. By Georg Spreng

Light-gray labradorite or whitish-gray pearls fit superbly with winter white. Trends are set by turquoise, aquamarine, iolite, and Ceylon sapphires.

"Attachment Rainbow Ring". 18 karat yellow gold and semi-precious stones: iolite, amethyst, rhodolite, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz, by Guy Laroche
Ring with tourmaline, by Buchhorn

Jewelry with stones in innumerable colors and shades, as Nicole Kidman has a special fondness for wearing, brings happiness and playfulness with it. Items in gold also offer variety thanks to color combinations and the many varied surfaces (polished, matte, sandblasted, satinized, hatched, brushed, beaten, meticulously polished, chiseled, etc.).

"The Stone" ring by Angela Hübel
Heart pendant set with an approx. 65 ct heart-shaped citrin and 0.80 ct of diamonds (tw/vsi), available in 18 karat gold. By Leo Wittwer
Platinum ring, set with large and small diamonds, by Krieger
A match made in heaven - the diamond solitaire and platinum. By Johann Kaiser
Amber pendant - Grand Prix Mercurius Gedanensis 2003 (competetition during the Amberiff, open to Polish participants only) - by Dariusz Zaranski
"Lierre" - white gold and diamonds, 4-part ring, by Alain Roure
3 pendants on a snake chain, 18 karat yellow gold with 0.25 ct brilliant-cut diamond, without stone, with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, each 0.015 ct, total: 0.40 ct, tw-vsi. DiamantGilde
Cross, 22 & 24 karat gold, sterling silver, amber, rough diamonds 9.63 ct TW, champagne colored diamonds vsi 0.11 ct TW. By Michael Zobel

Rings are increasing in volume: placement of several rings next to one another, and large rings with notable centrally set stones as cabochons or coussins surrounded by smaller stones set in rows or scattered, all meet with success. The gleam of gold goes well with gold-colored pearls, citrine, spessartine, brown tourmaline (dravite), and the newly discovered yellow Andean opal.

Jaroslaw Westermark - Elektronos 2003
Jewelry by Mariusz Gliwinski - Ambermoda, dress by Zuzanna Bartecka

The color of white diamonds is bewitching in a particular way. They play with the entire rainbow spectrum of light without committing themselves. According to the angle of the rays and the reflection, the sparkling gleam with its brilliant tones is like experiencing the beautiful but short and fleeting moments in life. One can enjoy them, but never hold them still, and never repeat them in exactly the same way.

Erhard Nolte - Elektronos 2003
MJM Marek and Mateusz Jozwiak - the Golden Prize Mercurius Gedanensis 2003

For many creative designers, amber has also taken a place among the preferred stones. Its warm tone, and the possibilities of working in larger volume and creating unusual forms, have been fostered, not least by competitions such as the Amberif Design Award Electronos.

Anna Nowinska (amber), Katarzyna Piontecka (dress)
Manda den Iseger, Netherlands, 1st Prize, Elektronos 2003

by Peter Henselder

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Peter Henselder

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