GZ Art+Design Spots 2008 2
22 Minute Read
Success in Silver
Even as a child, he wanted to be an artist - today he is an internationally renowned jewelry designer and will be celebrating his 20 year anniversary: Belgian born Nico Taeymans has designed an anniversary silver collection to mark the occasion, a sensual combination of black patinated silver and semi-precious stones. His career began with the production of sculptures and wooden objects. This soon led on to wood, gold and gemstone jewelry. His products seemed to tap into the mood of the day as he enjoyed ongoing success. Today, Taeymans' 25 employees work in his home town of Antwerp and his works are available throughout Europe as well as in the USA and Asia. His 'Silver', 'Gold' and 'Fashion' collections demonstrate expressive forms which weave their way through the last 20 years of his creations like a red thread as well as being subject to ongoing development. Structured surfaces form an exciting contrast with the partly playful shapes while gemstones and pearls add a final focal point. High quality timeless pieces of jewelry are the unmistakable trademark of this 51 year old. Nico Taeymans launches new silver collections of around 50 models twice a year. Tin is one of his favored materials. The designer also looks beyond his own creations and runs workshops for children at the Antwerp Diamond Museum as well as fundraising for the blind. Well done, Mr. Taeymans! www.nicotaeymans.com * cete
The designer jewelry brand La Reina from near Los Angeles supplies jewelers in the United States, Europe and Asia. The unique ideas by Samir Bhansali, originally from India and a qualified fashion designer, have already secured numerous prizes. Among others, his Art Du Jour Collection won the Best design by Town & Country award in 2007. La Reina presented his new collection Evoluzione at the BASELWORLD, which is intended to revolutionize jewelry design. The titanium pieces, set with diamonds in micro pave technique, are colored using thermal treatment. This means that the line appears in all colors of the rainbow. www.lareinacollection.com * ahe
The fashion jewelry by Israeli designer Ayala Bar is individual, shiny and 'non-genuine' and represents one main thing: pure lust for life. Large necklaces, earrings and rings express colorful festivity and emphasize the wearer's own personal style. Almost all materials used are non-precious and each piece is made by hand. Cut stones, pearls and glass crystals in all colors are lovingly set and stitched onto lace or silk. The metal components of the pieces are made from silver-plated brass. All materials are nickel-free and hypoallergenic. www.dazzl-design.de * cete
The Beautiful and the Beneficial
The exhibition Akzente will present applied art from March 9 to May 25 in the Crafts Museum, Deggendorf. Combining the beautiful with the beneficial is a capacity that most exhibiting artists certainly command. The show will feature jewelry by Jutta Arndt, Li Ostheimer-Kern, Torsten Trautvetter and Yasunori Watanuki, appliances by Ralf Hoffmann and Sabine Piper, glass by Klaus U. Hilsbecher, paper handbags by Maria Verburg, wooden bowls and writing implements by Jörg Ulrich and Karola Mittelstädt, ceramics by Young-Jae Lee, textiles by Renate Weber and Urushi paintwork by Heri Gahbler. In addition, for the fifth time, the Crafts Museum is organizing a competition for crafts and design. This year's theme is "Ties and Tiepins." Artisans and designers, apprentices and students are all invited to enter the competition. Each participant may apply with maximum three ties - bowties are also permitted - or tiepins designed and created by himself or herself. The evaluation will focus on originality, independence of the design, workmanship and functionality. The Deggendorf Savings Bank has donated prize money of 5,000 € A specialist jury will rule on the award of the prizes. The works accepted for the competition will be presented in a special show in the Crafts Museum from October 19 to March 8. 2009.
Ring by Werner Häring. Rosé gold, white gold, rosé tourmaline
Tourmaline ring by Torsten Trautvetter
At the same time, the Deggendorf City Museum will trace a culture-historical stroll through fashion around a man's neck under the title "Vom Vatermörder zur Fliege" (approx. "From patricide to the Bow"). The exhibition will also be presented in the Zons District Museum in the summer of 2009. Closing date for entries to a preliminary selection on the basis of photos is July 6. The application documents are found under the Internet address: www.museen-deggendorf.de * ahe
No Chance of a Mix-Up
Ron Ho was inspired by Ci Xi - the last dowager empress of China when creating his chatelaine
Fritz Maierhofer, role model: Arnold Schwarzenegger, 2005/2006
The special charm of the 'Custom Made ID Bracelets' results from an unusual combination of traditional goldsmithing and contemporary interpretation devised by Norwegian designer Lars Marius Larsen. The striking bracelets resemble machine chains and the wearers can create their own design using initials or words: the text, type, motifs and size can be individually selected. The designer derived his inspiration for the pieces from contexts which seem at first glance to have little to do with jewelry design: graffiti and machine components for example. In addition to these 'ID Bracelets', Lamardesign has also created eight bracelet collections which are also defined by their choice of material and design, appealing in particular to fans of jewelry for men. One notable exception: the 'Ladies Collection' is designed for softer skin! www.lamardesign.com * cete
Challenging the Chatelaine!
Valerie Hasse & Marcela Muñiz, role model: urban rastra, hybrid of the gaucho, the cartoneros, and Pampita, 2006
Inspired by the success of the "Brooching It Diplomatically" exhibition (1998), for which artists were asked to design a brooch for Madeleine Albright, then US Secretary of State, Helen Drutt came up with the idea of inviting jewelry designers to choose their own role model. The exhibition "Challenging the Chatelaine!" which takes place in the Stedelijk Museum 's-Hertogenbosch (NL) from 24 May - 24 August 2008, showcases pieces of jewelry made by 78 different artists hailing from 18 countries and shows widely varying interpretations of the chatelaine. The participating artists were enthusiastic about the chance to choose a celebrated figure/role model to serve as a source of inspiration. The role models they chose include historical figures, actors, philosophers, artists, scientists, writers, fashion icons and cartoon characters. Some examples may show the variety. For example Gijs Bakker (NL) took Maria Callas as his source of inspiration, Rolf Lindner (D) dedicated his chatelaine to all the mannequins in the world, Jorge Castañón (Arg.) made one for Eva Peron and Felieke van der Leest (NL) found inspiration in Shrek. www.sm-s.nl * cete
P.S. Chatelaine - originally meaning the mistress of a medieval castle, who wore a bunch of keys around her waist to symbolize her role, the word chatelaine was eventually transferred to the object and came to mean a decorative arrangement of objects hanging from a girdle.
Swiss Song of the Stars
Every two years, the legendary Tahiti cultured pearls from the turquoise lagoons of French Polynesia are put under the spotlight at the 'Tahitian Pearl Trophy'. The competition presents a real challenge for young jewelry designers across the world. The Swiss winners of the competition, based on a 'Song of the Stars' theme, were announced in January 2008.
Many jewelry designers and artists took on the challenge in Switzerland, submitting around 30 pieces to the 5th edition of this unique international design competition. The jury, all experts of this unique international design competition. The jury, all experts from the Swiss jewelry scene, selected twelve pieces in various categories. The 'Sternbogen' (star arch) by Karl Wandeler demonstrates particular creativity and was awarded first prize in the rings category. The striking piece has two white gold ring shanks, ending in star shapes, and sparkles with seven Tahiti cultured pearls and a South Sea pearl as well as 37 diamonds. One element is also interchangeable.
1st prize - bracelets: 'Belle mélodie', Graziella Sardi, Lausanne. White gold, blue topaz, sapphire, 26 Tahiti pearls. Sponsor: Art Bijou
1st prize - accessories: 'Ori Tahiti' hair jewelry, Karin Matter-Paasch, Lucerne. 225 diamonds, 45 sapphires, 110 Tahiti pearls. Sponsor: Bucherer AG
1st prize - brooches: 'Le petit cosmonaute', Heike Andres Zimmermann, Herisau. Silver, stainless steel, 1 Tahiti pearl
1st prize - pendants: 'Planétaire', Stefan Zimmermann, Herisau. Silver, diamonds, 3 Tahiti pearls
1st prize - rings: 'Sternbogen' (star arch) with interchangeable elements, Karl Wandeler, Horgen. White gold, 7 Tahiti pearls, 1 white South Sea pearl and 37 diamonds
1st prize - special prize/free category: 'Song of the Stars' music box, Thomas Schafroth, Berne. Gold-plated silver, zirconia, 30 Tahiti pearls
The 'Planétaire' pendant by Stefan Zimmermann is also an innovative idea and a clear winner in this category. The blackened silver pendant is enticing with its diamonds and three Tahiti cultured pearls, taking the observer into the sparkling starry skies.
'Le petit cosmonaute' by Heike Andres Zimmermann is a playful interpretation of the theme, depicting a small astronaut as a brooch. The piece won first prize in the category and will be submitted to the international finals in May. The astronaut is in the form of a silver Playmobil figure with a large Tahiti cultured pearl for its head.
The music box which won Thomas Schafroth first prize in the 'Special prize/ free category' ties in with the craftsmanship of Master jewelers of the past few centuries. A mussel opens out to contain a solar system of 30 Tahiti cultured pearls. www.tahitipearltrophy.net/ * ahe
Forming Intercultural Couples
Now less than 200 years ago, the Portuguese Royal Family landed on the coast of Brazil - a true reason for celebration. Part of this year's celebration will be a joint jewelry exhibition between the two countries, presented under the title "Real Jewellery - Portuguese and Brazilian Contemporary Jewellery". This exhibition is intended to solidify and promote the cultural and artistic ties between Portugal and Brazil. In this unusual project, 24 jewelry artists of both countries joined as creative couples each designing piece of jewelry. The inspiration or sources of references used were items of jewelry or objects that originated from the period of King Dom JoSo VI and are displayed in museums in Lisbon or Rio de Janeiro. This transaction created a bridge not only connecting present to the future, but both countries and cultures. The exhibition, with Cristina Filipe from Portugal and Lúcia Abdenur from Brazil as curators, is presented in the Museu Histórico Nacional in Rio de Janeiro until May 18 and in the Palacio Nacional da Ajuda in Lisbon from October 16 until November 30. A varied supporting program with workshops, gemstone exhibitions and conferences offers opportunity of discussion. * cete
New Ideas for Jewelry Design
"The industry can hear the grass growing at Inhorgenta Europe, and that in the middle of winter," commented the organizer of the design podium Barbara Schmidt in her laudation marking the award of the 9th Inhorgenta Europe innovation prize at the show held at the beginning of February "This is the laboratory for fresh ideas. The impulses fan out to the entire industry and influence future jewelry design throughout the world," Schmidt, rejoiced. 166 jewelry designers, including 7 silversmiths, submitted their work. The specialist international jury selected 30 creative heads who were allowed to present their pieces on the show's Designers Avenue. Four winners were selected from this pool.
Nilton Alves Cunha
Frederike Schürenkemper from Biebergemünd was rewarded for her extraordinary ring creations with colored gemstones. Claudia Hoppe from Düsseldorf received the innovation prize for her purist bracelets that shone in their language of forms. Isabell Schaupp from Hildesheim created striking brooches and pendants featuring integrated family photos, impressing critical eyes of the jury. These pieces appear like a persona talisman. Kathleen Hennemann from Hamburg won the innovation prize for her jewelry that with concrete and fish scales attempts to depart from the standard value structure of jewelry. The honorary silver prize, awarded for three years now, went to the Brazilian Nilton Alves Cunha for his silver bowls that thrilled the jury with their strict language of forms and the clear black and white contrast. The prize for platinum design, newly-created by the Munich Trade Fair in cooperation with the Platinum Guild International (PGI) was secured by Susanne Loew. Her impressive platinum necklace, for which 200 grams of the valuable precious metal was made available free of charge, "reveals a deep understanding of understatement and is easy to wear despite its size", said PGI CEO Gertrud Gross-Stahl. * ahe
Wonderful World of Mountain Crystal
Hans Jürgen Druglat
The focal point of this year's design competition Mineral Art was the creation of an innovative item of jewelry or object made of "mountain crystal." The organizer of the competition is the Birkenfeld Savings Bank in cooperation with the District of Birkenfeld and the town of Idar Oberstein. 107 entries by 64 participants were received. Due to the high quality of the entries, the jury awarded two commendations in addition to the main prizes. Participants in the competition came from Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, Italy and Bulgaria. The awards ceremony took place on February 16 within the framework of a gala event at Inhorgenta Europe 2008 in Munich. The first prize went to Jutta Munsteiner from Stipshausen for a necklace that was striking in its size of 292.55 ct and the clarity of the mountain crystal. She dedicated the piece of her series of work "Personalities" perfect to Enrico Caruso. The second prize was won by Hans Jürgen Druglat from Oberwörresbach. The third prize went to Tom Munsteiner from Stipshausen for a can made of sterling silver with a 354.15 carat rutilated quartz top. Commendations were awarded to Maren Giloy and Tom Munsteiner for further pieces of work. * ahe
A Women's Image
The jewelry designer Kenten Grosche awaits an honorable challenge: She was selected by the renowned sculptor and painter Günter Uecker to create the promotional prize that was awarded for the first time this year by "Soroptimist International Germany". The first laureate of the german-wide offered prize is the Nobel Prize winner Prof . Dr. Christiane Nüsslein- Volhard, who, in recognition of her efforts to improve the position of women in society, was honored in Dusseldorf on March 8, 2008, the International Women's Day. The prize is rated with 20,000 euros and is awarded to persons or organizations that have fought for the position of women in Germany within the framework of a concrete project. www.galeriehaus-grosche.de * cete
Idar-Oberstein Adorns Itself
In the framework of the city festival "Idar-Oberstein Shines", the varied program "Idar-Oberstein Adorns Itself" offers throughout 2008 many different exhibitions by German and international jewelry artists. Established jewelry craftspeople like Bernd Munsteiner, Gijs Bakker and Emmy van Leersum will show their work their alongside young and upcoming designers. A total of four duo exhibitions create exciting contrasts and reveal a large part of the range of contemporary European jewelry design. The colloquium "Jewelry Thinking" will be held already for the fourth time, this year with the topical focus "Jewelry as an Ornament". The entire program, which will be held in the venues Villa Bengel, German Gemstone Museum, Trier Polytechnic and the Birkenfeld Savings Bank, can be accessed under www.io-leuchtet.idar-oberstein.de * cete
Paradise for Collectors
'Collect' is an international art fair for contemporary objects staged at the V&A in London in the end of January, this year attracting over 10,000 visitors (up 11 %). Sales went well over ₤ 1 million. Organizer is the Crafts Council UK. "It is one of the most exhilarating fairs of the year," commented Lucia van der Post from The Times. Firmly established as the most prestigious event of its kind worldwide, Collect provides a unique opportunity to buy the most desirable and collectible contemporary crafts from around the world. Oliver Makower of Bishopsland Educational Trust explained that "Interest in contemporary art is gaining strength all the time, museums like the V&A understand this and support us… today's collectors are tomorrow's donors." This year also saw the launch of Art Fund Collect, where four museums and galleries were awarded a share of a ₤ 50,000 fund to acquire work at Collect. The winning venues were. Hove Museum & Art Gallery, mima, Ulster Museum and The Whitworth Art Gallery.
Karl Fritsch, 'Untitled' 2007. Gold oxidized, finegold. Galerie Ra, The Netherlands
Exhibiting for the third time at 'Collect', the Alternatives Gallery from Italy sold many one-off pieces of jewelry, mainly to new collectors, while Galerie Terra Delft were pleased to have sold one of their key pieces, Man with Sheephead by Carolein Smit, to a private collector. Rosy Greenlees, Executive Director of the Crafts Council, said: "We are delighted that Collect 2008 was such a great success with many of the galleries selling to new collectors. The Crafts Council is committed to developing the market for contemporary craft through the Collect art fair and the popularity of Collect over the last five years proves this is a healthy and growing market." www.craftscouncil.org.uk * ahe
A Drill for Tough Jobs
Not only stainless steel, the current trend metal for jewelry, but also platinum and titanium are very difficult to work using a standard twist drill. A new type of twist drill, the 203 SHIV from Busch, now enables these hard materials to be drilled with ease.
A sharp and stable construction with two blades coupled with generous chip space in the side grooves for removal of chips guarantees easy and rapid drilling action. The superhard, finest grain hard metal increases the longevity of the drill. After center punching of the drilling point and adding lubricant, multiple, optimal drillings can be performed with the same drill, avoiding leverage and jamming. The tool with a shank diameter of 2.35 mm is available in ten different diameters from 7 to 16 mm. www.busch.eu * ahe
Homage to Titanium
The Speyer-based goldsmith Dietmar Günster von Schumann presents a series of airy-light woven titanium balls in his "Nature in Design" collection. Apart frome naturally- and thermally-colored jewelry pieces in pure titanium, he also combines metal with yellow- and red-gold as well as palladium. "I appreciate the lightness and wearing comfort of titanium. It's anti-allergic and indestructible. In addition, it can also consistently be colored thermally, which opens up a huge range of creative options. In the jewelry scene the call for titanium is wrongly confined" declares the artist. www.goldschmiede-guenster.de * ahe
Ideas and Creativity in the Heart of Venice
Laboratorio 2729 is a showroom and space in Venice for ideas, applied art and design. The pieces exhibited are created by the lab or selected internationally. The space showcases works on a revolving basis, often reflecting important Venetian cultural events.
Technology applied to processing is what characterizes the innovative shapes of intricate, unique pieces of applied art. The works shown encourage reflection on the nature of the materials used. While pieces in pate de verre look like sand, objects in wood, knowingly turned out of thick tree trunks, are fragile to the eye. Bits of porcelain become colorful lanscapes and gres panels evoke felt, cardboard or paper. Stiff panels of multiply wood are transformed into elegant, sinuous shapes. Laboratorio 2729 aims to continuously experiment with traditional and innovative materials. The showroom currently features pieces shown in the SalonSatellite of the Milan Salone Internazionale del Mobile. The theme is experimenting with wood.
YuKoN Charms Collection by TeNo
Laboratorio 2729 keeps the tradition of Venetian culture alive, starting with its past, in one of the very places that has made Venice unique around the world. The idea of Massimo Barbierato (architect) and Francesca Meratti (artisan) is located in Calle Lunga San Barnaba, where the old supply shop used to be, with its display of natural pigments in the window. It was one of Venice's last botteghe, selling supplies to craftspeople and artisans. This atmosphere of working craftsmen is still alive. www.lab2729.com * ahe
The monomania brand has committed itself to timeless design. The clear lines of the pieces should be as impressive today as in the future. The playful light and sophisticated design of the new collection enables it to blend seamlessly with the existing product range. It is clear at a glance that the pieces are made by monomania. The designs reflect the surface design in stainless steel, gold or resin. It is this contrasting interplay of different materials and graphical lines which defines monomania. Glamorous pieces of jewelry are created by combining these materials with diamonds or genuine pearls and stones, making these pieces real classics. monomania is a brand of the Lifestyle Group GmbH from Munich. www.monomania.de * ahe
The Economical Alternative to Rhodium
As an alternative to the currently extremely expensive rhodium, Heimerle + Meule offers an extremely light platinum bath and a very dark black ruthenium bath. Platinum and ruthenium are considerably more reasonably-priced than rhodium, which is currently the world's most expensive precious metal. The two alternatives are characterized by a high degree of wear resistance, with excellent suitability for the decorative field. The baths can be easily operated with a PGG series galvanizer from Heimerle + Meule.
These devices are also ideal for the galvanic separation of copper, nickel, silver, gold, rhodium and other metals, with the exception of chrome. Operation is simple, with the consequence that it can also be performed by people with no great experience in electroplating. There is one version for the processing of small parts and one for working larger pieces. The in-house device service center of the jewelry specialist provides users with comprehensive, free advice with regard to chemicals and their handling, as well as the operation of the device and a good deal more. www.heimerle-meule.com * ahe
Casting Solution for Small Series
The new compact vacuum pressure casting device MC 15
Pouring off takes place using a 90° rotation of the casting unit. After pouring, the MC 15 automatically switches to overpressure in order to optimize the mould filling even for delicate parts
The flask size of Ø 80 mm x 120 mm (h) offers a well balanced compromise: large enough for real casting trees, but small enough to be burned within 5-6 hours.
The top flap with a viewing window opens the melting chamber; the front flap provides access to the flask chamber and lets roll the flask automatically into its exact position
The new MC 50 vacuum casting device from Indutherm is particularly suitable for workshops, studios and manufacturers who want to produce small series. The MC 50 is so compact that it takes up very little space. It also offers a high level performance, meaning that goldsmiths can quickly produce small series of their creations without too much effort. The casting device is suitable for all jewelry metals except steel and platinum. Even complete beginners can create top-class results with the MC 50 on their first attempt. Thanks to its vacuum techniques, excess pressure functions and numerous automatic control mechanisms, using the device is simple and effective. One distinct advantage is the quick casting of models and semi-finished pieces in every conceivable form. The metal alloy is well stirred through low frequency tuning at the supply stage. Melting under vacuum conditions reduces the danger of oxidization. Excess pressure of two bars during the casting process ensures that the molten metal is evenly distributed across even the finest of channels. The operating costs for the casting device are particularly low. With the MC 50, the user can implement his ideas independently of a service provider without having to wait and at a reasonable price. www.indutherm.de * ahe
Designer Dreams Become True
innopoint supports designers worldwide in the realization of their dreams. Precious metals such as 18 kt yellow and white gold, stainless steel, platinum, titanium and silicone are processed by the specialist using a range of high-end technologies such as laser welding, wire eroding and laser inscription for high-quality cable, spiral or silicone necklaces. The depth of manufacturing expertise at the company enables the realization of a range of different necklace variations: stainless steel cable in a range of different diameters, worked into single and multistrand necklaces, spiral necklaces from highly-flexible to firmly adjustable share the scope of supply with titanium spirals of different diameters and extremely stable silicone necklaces in the colors white, black and chocolate brown. The matching clasp mechanisms are also produced to perfect quality. www.innopoint.com * ahe
Reena Ahluwalia wins Tahitian Pearl Trophy
Sensational, provocative and absolutely luxurious these are the words which come to mind while describing jewelry designer Reena Ahluwalia's award winning necklace for the North American Tahitian Pearl Trophy. The Cultured Pearl Association of America, which represents Perles de Tahiti in the United States, recently announced the winners of the 2007-2008 "The Song of the Stars" Tahitian Pearl Trophy North American division. The jury included Laurie Schechter, Stylists and Co.; Elena Mauer, Bridal Guide; jean Francois Bibet, Van Cleef and Arpels; Amanda Gizzi, Jewelry Information Center; Kathleen Fritzpatrick, freelance editor; Hedda T. Schupak, JCK and Fran Mastoloni, Frank Mastoloni and Sons.
First-placed winner and representing North America, "Ethereal Rhapsody" necklace, now enters the TPT International Awards phase, to be judged by the international jury in May 2008. Along with this success, Ahluwaila has also won second place in both bracelet and brooch categories in the North American Tahitian Pearl Trophy. * ahe
SHO on the Catwalk
SHO Fine jewelry made its London Fashion Week debut this season when they accessorized the Fall/Winter collection by the design duo, Steve J & Yoni P. After seeing Sarah Ho's pieces for Swarovski's 'Runway Rocks', Steve and Yoni were so impressed with Sarah's unique and modern style that they asked her to create a collection to accessorize their show. The resulting limited edition jewelry collection is inspired by mysterious crop circles and works in harmony with Steve J & Yoni P's overlaying and geometric style.
Continuing their support, Swarovski are sponsoring SHO's collection, which is comprised of oversized rings and circular disc earrings which interlock with chains joined to a large matching pendant, all in yellow gold inlaid with Swarovski jet black crystals. www.showjewellery.com * ahe
Prizes for Puristic Design
Niessing has been awarded three prizes for its jewelry ideas. The Niessing Cirrus, a sculpted ring and necklace made from interwoven strips of precious metals, was awarded the internationally renowned iF design award 2008. The jury of the Industrie Forum Design in Hanover were persuaded by the simplicity and clean cut of the shapes. The Niessing Rollover ring also qualified for the German Design Prize. The prize is awarded annually by the German Ministry for Finance and Economy and the German Design Council. Last year, this slick ring available in five different shades of gold or in platinum - was awarded the red dot award by the Design Zentrum Nordrhein Westfalen Design Centre of North Rhine-Westphalia). * ahe
The impressive exhibition from March 18 until June 15 "Sunday Silver - Three centuries of decorated church books", held in the Zilvermuseum in Sterckshof Castle in Deurne (Antwerp) provides the first overview of printed and richly decorated sacral books in the Netherlands from 1650 to 1900. The hymn books, bibles and prayer books from the Protestant, Catholic and Jewish traditions come from the Van Noordwijk private collection. The beautiful silverwork decoration of the books testifies to the extraordinary skill of the craftsmen who made them. The silver mounts and clasps, the leatherwork and the exquisite gilding make each book a feast for the eye. www.zilvermuseum.be * ahe
by GZ Art+Design
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