Time Step: Blossom Motifs in Jewelry

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HomeLearning CenterJewelry DesignTime Step: Blossom Motifs in Jewelry
By Katja PoljanacMore from this author

The magic of the moment is revealed in a summery fresh flower bouquet. As a symbol of vitality and transience, or simply for the pure love of extravagant decoration, floral motif have always been popular topics for goldsmith artists to immortalize in a precious form. Teeming with contrary positions and innovative developments, the current avant garde is drawing on a long tradition in jewelry. A comparison:

Brooch, around 1860, revival period, maker unknown, probably English, gold and diamonds, Jewelry Museum Pforzheim

A comparison: Plant and blossom motifs were exceptionally popular in aristocratic circles and in the upper middle classes, as we see in the portrayed brooch by the hand of an unnamed artist at the time of historicism. In some cases, they were embedded in a classical, slightly stricter form or they revealed their dignified magnificence in a freer, idealized arrangement. It is conspicuous to note the pivotal position granted to the diamond in this context. As we see in this example, the floral presentation was frozen in the brilliance of diamond-clad posterity. Spiral springs connect the heads of the blossoms with the diamond-encrusted twig, revealing true crafts finesse. The flexible anchoring creates a charming tremble on the blossom heads, gently oscillating every time the woman who wears it moves - a flirt with every onlooker.

Brooch, 2003, Georg Dobler, silver with blue paint, amethyst

"I like picking flowers up off the floor" Georg Dobler has rediscovered this traditional subject for himself. However, his blossoms do not speak any additional, symbolic language. They are very unpretentious and possessed of a simple sensuality in form as star anise, grape vines or cape gooseberries. In the selected arrangement and the balanced ratios between the blossom heads and the twigs, Dobler works with substantially classical design principles. The cast forms of real twigs mean that the brooches appear hyper-realistic in terms of their form. However, their colors appear extraordinarily synthetic. He does not attempt to replicate nature and most certainly does not idealize it. Georg Dobler creates pieces of constructed naturalness.

Brooch, 2003, Georg Dobler, silver and paint




by Katja Poljanac

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Katja Poljanac

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