Swiss quality in the tool sector

Edenta, the specialist company guarantees absolute quality consistency. Its range of top grade abrasive and polishing rotary instruments includes all features of the highest quality products. Their programme is made up of traditional silicon rubber polishers as well as state-of-the-art diamond impregnated ones with focus on longevity and high level performance, various different types suited for the full spectrum of a kinds of materials used in jewelry and other industries, diamond burs and cutting discs, tungsten carbide cutters, rubynit trimmers, ceramic bonded stones and steelburs, plus mandrels, drills and finishers.

GZ Art+Design 2005 1
Prepolisher, TopStar brown for gold, silver and other precious alloys
Goldino Pink for high gloss polishing made of highest quality silicon

All instruments are made from only the best quality materials and every one of them is manufactured to meet the demanding ISO 9001 standards, in fact exceeding them by far. Edenta polishers, diamonds and carbides are highly respected by even the most discerning operators who have been using them. Some of the most important features of the Edenta Rotary instruments include its enhanced durability standards and the unmatched longevity. Its cutting, polishing and trimming efficiency is the ultimate that is available in the market today, and its concentricity is unparalleled. All in all it is only fair comment to make, that Edenta Rotary Instruments have become “The New Industry Standard”. A company commitment to superior service has propelled Edenta to the forefront of the rotary instrument market, and complete customer satisfaction is the goal of every Edenta employee. Swiss Quality at its very best. www.edenta.ch * Edenta

Cera-Gloss comes as a three step system, coarse green, medium blue and fine yellow
Tungsten carbide cutters for precious alloys for best work
Diamond impregnated polisher for platinum
Diamond coating HP for fast and efficient working on all materials

Journeyman apprentice wins competition

The regional winner in the “Practical performance competition for young craftspeople 2004” was the goldsmith iourneyman Paul losef Rocholl, who completed his apprenticeship in the jewelry studio ran by the internationally renowned designer Michael Zobel in Constance; he then went on to pass his journeyman’s examination with excellent grades in spring 2004. His work, a bangle made of gold, silver and cornelian, convinced the jury. At the moment, Paul Josef Rocholl is one of four journeymen goldsmiths on their adventurous wanderings through Europe. Styled on old traditions within the profession, the journeymen goldsmiths travel through Europe for a certain period and acquire work and accommodation as they go. * cete

Ganoksin is sponsored by

Journeyman’s piece by Paul Josef Rocholl

The Blickfang season 2005 is underway

Specialist visitors and people interested in design will find opportunities to network in a loose and relaxed atmosphere at the Blickfang Trade Fairs, innovative sales fairs for furniture, fashion and jewelry, which are held in Stuttgart, Zurich and Vienna; meeting newcomers and established designers from Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Visitors will also be able to purchase their favorite directly. The next Blickfang, which will be held in Stuttgart from March 11-13, offers a varied supporting program: For example, roughly a dozen designers in the Vienna Corner provide an impression of the creative potential in the Viennese design scene. In another joint exhibition, designers from Hamburg will present the latest trends in furniture and fashion from the Northern reaches of Germany. In addition, there will be exhibition opening parties and readings on the topic of design from very different points of view. The Blickfang prizes in gold, silver and bronze honor excellent overall concepts and design objects. In addition to the idea, the wit and the workmanship of the pieces in a crafts and design sense, the jury will focus on aspects such as service and presentations at the trade fair. Students and recent light design graduates can apply to take part in the special show Light 2005 free of charge. The Light prize 2005 will also honor a technically innovative and particularly well designed object. www.blickfang.com * cete

Lena Hülsmeier
Elisabeth Baechli

Dreams made of Murano glass

The discerning glass artwork from the world-famous, Italian lagoon island of Murano enchants viewers with uniquely vibrant colors and artistic, often highly complex forms and decorations. Drawing on over 400 objects, a new publication on the book market, the richly illustrated release of “Venetian Art Glass An American Collection 1840-1970” presents over 100 years in the history of this extraordinary glass art. A glossary of the different glass techniques and a wealth of new information on artists and firms make this publication a respectable reference cook for enthusiasts and collectors of Muranese glass art alike. The artistic spectrum ranges from the antique-look receptacles from the 19th century, via the extremely opulent and colorful glass objects from the second decade of the 20th century through to the famous glass sculptures of the nineteen sixties and seventies. * cete

Winged centaur in transparent blue glass with a corroded finish over by Pablo Picasso (1965)

Jewelry in Istanbul twice a year

800 exhibitors from 32 countries and over 30,000 specialist visitors a year these are the proud figures registered by the Istanbul international Jewellery Fair, which has been an international marketplace for visitors and exhibitors from the EU, Russia, the Black Sea and Caspian Region, Turkey and Central Asian countries, the Middle East, North Africa and all Mediterranean countries for 20 years. The considerable demand among the exhibitors for even more presentation facilities prompted the organizers of the trade fair to hold the event twice a year from 2005 onwards, once in March and once in September. The fair is characterized by its high degree of trade value in particular. As a forum for new concepts by young designers, for leading jewelry labels with their creative designs and innovative materials and as a forum for industry trends, it now attracts and enchants over 30,000 specialist visitors from 80 different countries. Visiting the Istanbul International Jewellery Fair also always means staying in the city. With its charm, flair and culture, Istanbul skillfully combines the Western and Eastern worlds at the nodal point on the Bosporus. www.rotaforte.com * cete

Ganoksin is sponsored by

Glass dish from the Orient series by Ercole Barovier dating from 1940

Iberjoya, Madrid – jewelry fair with Mediterranean flair

The 33rd Iberjoya, Spanish specialist trade fair for the jewelry and watch industry, took place from September 9 to 13. The attraction of the Iberjoya as an industry meeting was confirmed once more by the 23,681 specialist visitors who flocked to Halls 8 and 10 of the exhibition grounds “Juan Carlos I Exhibition Centre”, the residence of the Madrid trade fair company. A total of 575 exhibitors presented the trends for 2005 on roughly 16,000 square meters; these numbers included 145 foreign exhibitors. At the same time and in addition the the Intergift and the Bisutex, the Iberjoya is one of the trade fair events within the framework of the “International Gift, Jewelry and Fashion Week”. German exhibitors were also among the 145 international representatives from the jewelry and watch industry. The solid foundation upon which the Iberjoya stands was apparent in the growth of 5% among exhibitors and 2% more visitors compared to last year. 6% of all specialist visitors were foreign purchasers, mainly from other countries in Europe. The Spanish jewelry manufacturers presented the segment of jewelry with exclusive and very personal creations. Modern jewelry collections for men were increasingly on show. The exhibition section “Vanguardia”, featuring young jewelry designers from Spain, presented talented and unusual design ideas and was very well and imaginatively manned by roughly fifty young exhibitors. The overflowing creativity among many of the designers was welcomed with considerable interest among purchasing agents form Spanish galleries and also the industrial sector. Conversely, the goldsmith section presented a selection of attractive and appealing silver jewelry, uniting in a successful combination the modernity of new materials with the tradition of Spanish jewelry production. The third trend fashion show was proof positive that jewelry has an increasingly significant role to play in the world of fashion. The design and creativeness in the exhibited jewelry world, including German jewelry manufacturers, were manifest in the models entitled “Pirates and Princesses”, lasting one hour. www.Iberjoya.ifema.es * suh

Between anatomy, architecture and jewelry design

The flexible ring system that the jewelry designer Nane Adam from Weimar / Germany presented for the first time within the framework of the platform “brand new – new brand” at the inhorgenta 2004, has an interdisciplinary character: the colored nylon threads spun around and in the ring are extremely comfortable due to their flexibility and means that the ring can be worn on different finger sizes. In an optical sense, the spun lines, which are in places found exclusively on the inside of the ring and other times grasp the entire metal strip in a graphic arrangement, appear almost like the plans for a modern bridge construction. No wonder, as the graduate from the Wismar Academy drew inspiration for her contemporary designs from the spectacular bridges created by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. www.naneadam.de * cete

Turnov and Idar Oberstein – jewelry symposium and partner cities

Just like in recent years, the 16th International Jewelry Symposium, organized by the Museum in the Bohemian paradise in Turnov, Czech Republic, and the local goldsmith firm RSG, was one of the region’s cultural highlights in summer 2004. The most important participants included above all Libuse Hlubucková and the Austrian Helfried Kodré, who have both been involved in jewelry design for many years. Other luminaries included international designers such as Stanislava Grebenicková, Vladimir Komnácky, Gisbert Stach, Peter Vermandere, Sonia Ruiz de Arkaute, Kepa Karmona and Miiria NepsinskS. In addition to the obligatory exhibition Symposium 04, in which the participants presented their work, two additional supporting events complemented the show. Firstly, there was the presentation of jewelry and objects by Prof. Vratislav K. Novák; secondly, there was an exhibition “Wearing stones” of student and graduation pieces from the Polytechnic College in Idar-Oberstein, Germany. The similar traditions in the two cities in processing gemstones connect Turnov and ldar-Oberstein and promote their willingness to pool resources and to work together. www.muzeum-turnov.cz * cete

Ganoksin is sponsored by

Peter Vermandere

Insuring art

During the TEFAF 2005 in Maastricht, the art insurance company AXA Art intends to demonstrate the terrible effects fire has on artworks on the basis of the severely burnt work “Portrait of James Dunn in Blue Shirt” by the British artist Augustus John (1878-1961). Within this context, AXA Art, one of the leading insurance companies for artwork, wants to show how careful planning can prevent fires or reduce the gravity of their repercussions. AXA Art, founded in Paris in 1940, will be present for the second time at the art and antiques fair TEFAF in Maastricht, which will be held this year from March 4 to 13. In addition to insuring artworks and valuables, AXA Art supports the education of students in the application of cutting edge methods in the restoration of portraits and artworks ravaged by fire. To do this, the insurance company donated eight items of furniture and four pictures by the artist Augustus John, which had been irreparably damaged in a fire in a manor house in Wiltshire in October 2003, to the Leeds College of Art & Design and the University Northumbria. www.axa-art.com or www.tefaf.com * cete

Torun mourned

The world of jewelry is mourning Vivianna Bülow-Hübe, the equally beautiful as multifaceted Grande Dame of Scandinavian jewelry art. Vivianna Bulow-Hübe, better known under her pseudonym Torun (born 1927), was born into a family of architects and artists from Malmo. After training to become a silversmith in Stockholm, she went to Paris and graced the cover of the magazine Vogue during the fifties. Her unusual, exquisite jewelry, which lent special emphasis to the female form, conquered the city at the drop of a hat. She combined stones that she collected on the beach of Antibes with silver, the classic jewelry material in Scandinavia. In Paris, Torun moved on the inner circle of the art, music and jazz world, and her customers numbered Billie Holiday, among others. Torun was the first woman to rise to world renown as a silversmith. Since 1967, Georg Jensen in Copenhagen has produced her work. After living for ten years in Wolfsburg/Germany (1968-1978), Torun lived in Jakarta/Indonesia for almost 25 years, where she managed a social pilot project for children on behalf of the Swedish government. She returned to Copenhagen on July 3, 2004, not long before she passed away. Torun’s jewelry is found in the most important jewelry collections around the world; since March 2004, items are also included in the Danner Rotunda as part of the New Collection (Pinakothek der Moderne, Munich). www.oinakothek-der-moderne.de * cete

Sonia Ruiz-Arkaute

International Jewellery London 2004 – staying in touch

The largest jewelry fair to date in London, the 48th International Jewellery London 2004, was held from September 4 to 8. Located in colorful South Kensington and in the direct proximity of Hyde Park, the IJL offers an excellent presentation of jewelry and silverware on the British market. At this annual platform, a total of 8,959 specialist visitors provided convincing insight into the range of products on offer in the jewelry sector, in gold and silver jewelry, pearls and gemstones and in the related business fields of packaging, display and studio equipment. 650 exhibitors from thirty countries were registered at the trade fair. The Country Pavilions featured presentations by South Africa, Turkey and Hong Kong; Mexico was present at the IJL with a delegation of jewelry manufacturers for the first time. English visitors to the roughly sixty German exhibitors were able to gain good insight into the German range of products and services form the fields of high-quality gemstone jewelry, gold jewelry and designer jewelry.

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Anna Lorenz

The IJL supporting program also included lectures in the seminar area. Members of the Association of English Goldsmiths, the Diamond Trading Company, the International Platinum Guild and the World Gold Council presented their views on various specialist topics, which were very well received by dealers and goldsmiths in equal measure. A fashion show, held ever hour, provided a brief glimpse into the exhibitor trends and rounded off the trade fair program in an entertaining manner.

AngloGold Ashanti

Contemporary British jewelry design was on show in the Design Pavilion. The Jules Award is awarded each year for jewelry design and products from other categories as an incentive and encouragement for the exhibitors. The Brazilian jewelry designer Antonio Bernado received the Jules Award for the best jewelry design. Santiago Agastino accepted the prize in his place. Anna Lorenz received the prize for the best product design. The German goldsmith has lived near London for some time now and produced her jewelry there. In 2005, the International Jewellery London will be held from September 4 to 7. www.jewellerylondon.com * suh

“Grass to gold”

In fall, the Crafts Council of India invited art historians, archeologists, collectors and designers to the international jewelry conference in Madras. Topic: The cultural legacy and future of Indian jewelry.

Ganoksin is sponsored by

Ganjam Heritage

First of all, the summary: The prestige of jewelry in Asia is entirely different than in Europe. Indian jewelry is mainly intended to adorn the inner soul and mirror the different phases in the life of a person wearing it. Experts from the United States, Europe, the Near East and the Asian-Pacific Region pooled their knowledge on the past and their visions for the future during a conference lasting several days. Characteristic features of Indian jewelry are above all the fascinating wealth and the rich tradition that has been sustained to the present day. This demonstrates that aesthetic appeal and the longing for beauty may certainly be motives to wear jewelry, but that these aspects are generally subordinate to the mysticism and existential significance of jewelry. These multifaceted meanings of jewelry are not lust a historical fact in India, they are real and existent to the present day.

Almost 300 international participants heard that in India jewelry is used to heal and also to bring good fortune and that even very small children will wear jewelry. A rigid neck ring protects the collar bone and is reputed to have positive influence on rhetorical skills. A cord around the hips, worn by babies, stimulates acupressure points to ward off polio. Large pendants worn on the chest by men and women protect the Chakra – the point that accommodates both the soul and the central nerve system. Earrings are even reputed to help the development of the prostate among young men. In grass jewelry, the 5 different types of grass embody the 5 elements and bring supplications to 5 gods that promise good fortune.

The list of speakers was truly high-powered and packed with highly interesting and prominent personalities: Oppi Untracht (82), ethnologist from Finland and author of several books on jewelry techniques and Indian jewelry dealt with the social significance, traditional production methods and the changes in the symbolic forms in Indian jewelry. The passionate collector of silver earrings from India, Dr. Waltraud Ganguli, discussed different ways of wearing ear jewelry. Among other things, her lecture demonstrated that the styles of wearing differ, depending on the cultural environment: Whether it is a pin through the ear lobe, wound round the ear without a pin, covers the entire ear, is attached to jewelry on the hair parting or whether it is combined with nose or ponytail jewelry, the variety of ear jewelry appears limited if at all, then only by social restrictions Usha Balakrishna, author of “Dance of the Peacock” and “Jewellery of the Nizams”, dealt with language references and the meaning of the mysticism of numbers: Sanskrit, the mother of many languages, is rich with descriptions for various jewelry categories. There are 10 different terms in order to describe the quality of pearls alone and to characterize their surfaces. Here is one example of the significance of numbers: Many Indian chains are made of 108 pearls, the “ideal” number. In addition, other meanings are attributed to metal and gemstones: rigid foot jewelry must not be made of gold, for example, as this precious metal, attributed to the gods, should not touch the dirt of the earth.

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The volunteer women at the Crafts Council of India organized a fantastic event in cooperation with the main sponsor, the traditional jewelry firm Ganjam Ltd., which showed that jewelry has been a socially relevant topic in India for over 5,000 years. It is to be hoped that the exciting message of turning “grass into gold” using creativeness will also be received with the same enthusiasm and openness next time. www.grasstooold.com * Schmidt

Looking for talent

The American Jewelry Design Council (AJDC), which is made up of 30 prominent Jewelry, designers, is concerned with establishing jewelry design as an independent art form. Each year during a competition, the AJDC loins with the JA (Jewelers of America), the largest jewelry trade association in the US, to find la crème de la crème among the new, talented young jewelry designers. The winner can enjoy a free exhibition space in the renowned New Designer Gallery during the JA exhibition, one of the most important jewelry shows for wholesalers, which will be held in July of this year in New York. In addition to the media spotlight and the exposure within the entire industry that the winner will receive, he or she will also receive professional support and advice from the AJDC members. Participating in this competition is an excellent opportunity for young jewelry designers and manufacturers to be discovered and to make a name for themselves. The talent competition is one of the largest events on the American jewelry scene, and it is welcomed by considerable interest by the industry, the media and also by shop and gallery owners. All American jewelry designers and manufacturers who sell to retail outlets on a wholesale basis and who have never before taken part in a JA exhibition in New York are eligible to take part. Each year, the members of AJDC create a one of a kind jewelry object that is not for sale, with an agreed theme. The topic in 2004 was “Sphere”. www.ajdc.org * cete

Innovation for spiral drills

Traditional spiral drills have difficulties processing not only trend materials such as titanium and jewelry steel, but also pearls, coral and the most precious of all metals, platinum. In order to be able to drill holes in these obstinate materials when it comes to cutting, Busch is now offering a spiral drill made of fine-granule carbide. The drill with the reference number 203HM has two cutters and four grooves, which improves the removal of cut material and reduces the risk of cracking. It is manufactured in 10 different diameters with hand piece shaft (ø 2 35 mm). * cete

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New gallery opening in Florence

The Florence-based Le Arti Orafe Jewellery School opened the Jewellery Art Gallery as early as August 2004. It is intended to popularize contemporary jewelry around the world. In addition, the managers of the new exhibition facility intend to offer young and established designers the opportunity to make individual or group exhibitions. The declared goal of the director at the Le Arti Orafe Jewellery School, Gio Carbone, is to turn the gallery into a bustling hub of communication and networking, in which discussions and conferences take place. A library with works on contemporary art is also being set up. Designers and artists are requested to make available to the library their catalogues and documents that display their working methods. Two exhibitions are already planned for next year, while others are on the drawing board. www.artiorafe.it * cete

Jacqueline Ryan, Giovanni Corvaja

Amberif 2005 – international trade fair for amber, jewelry and stones

Amberif is the largest and most important trade fair for amber, held in Gdansk, the center of amber jewelry production. The trade fair is being held for the twelfth time, this year from March 16-19. The interest among exhibitors and visitors is growing from year to year. 1,730 specialists from 42 countries attended the fair Last year. 2004 set a new record with 391 registered exhibitors. In March, the organizer Miedzynarodowe Targi Gdanskie (International Gdansk Trade Fair) – is expecting over 5,000 specialist visitors from 40 countries and over 400 exhibitors. The trade fair is held in two neighboring buildings and is divided into three areas: amber, jewelry and technical equipment. Naturally, interest is focused on the Amber Hall, where the best amber jewelry is on show. Next year, the Amber Pavilion will be added to this hall. It also accommodates the Design Gallery, the Paleontology Gallery with amber laboratory the museum of amber inclusions and design schools. In the Jewelry Hall – called the Gold Hall, jewelers, jewelry manufacturers, wholesalers, importers and watch manufacturers and importers will present their latest products. Machines and utensils for the jewelry industry are presented in the Technical Pavilion. The supporting program is also interesting. The amber jewelry competitions are also of great significance: the international Amberif Design Award and the national only for Polish designers – Mercurius Gedanensis. The topic of the award is “The Organic Product”. The organizers expect work that unites two contradictions: the organic substance, namely amber, with a consciously selected component that mirrors the current epoch of progressive technology and symbolizes our reality. The international jury will reward a good perceptiveness and originality of the work in particular. The prizes will be awarded during the gala dinner. Apart from this, visitors at this evening function will be witnesses to an unforgettable show, prepared by renowned fashion and jewelry designers. Thanks to the cooperation between the trade fair and TV broadcasters, the event this year will be presented to a broad audience shortly after the premiere. www.amberif.pl * Sado

Adam Jablonowski, ring from the exclusive collection “Geometry”. Natural amber and silver
Hanna und Jacek Zdanowski, necklace and bracelet. Natural amber, cord and silver
Pawel Kaczynski, bracelet. Natural amber, aluminum and silver