The Attraction of Visions: Inhorgenta Europe 2004

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HomeLearning CenterJewelry DesignThe Attraction of Visions: Inhorgenta Europe 2004
By Peter HenselderMore from this author

At the start of the year, inhorgenta europe in Munich will provide answers to the questions on how jewelry will develop, what influences it will absorb and what repercussions it will have.

Inhorgenta Europe 2004
C2 Designer's night: This occasion is used to present unusual jewelry exhibits to a broader public at a discotheque
Ceylon sapphire necklace by Thomas von Arent
Lover's rings Moving Hearts, Brüder Nowotny KG, hearts in white gold, free moving and still connected to each other
Wedding rings from the collection "Design Quintet" by Furrer Jacot. 18 karat yellow gold, brilliant
Coral creoles by Thomas Wiltmann, 18 karat yellow gold with pointed coral cabochons and spring mechanism
"Turning Cube", patented turning mechanism for four colored stones, garnet, yellow citrine, topaz and lemon citrine in three sizes, in 18 karat yellow gold or palladium - white gold. The ring is variable in material and stone selection, by Christina A. Pelzer

What concepts will 2004 bring? Which expectations must one not neglect when dealing with the future of European jewelry designs? The current work by over 300 jewelry designers will give the most conceivably different answers to these questions at inhorgenta europe (Feb. 20 to 23, 2004) in Munich.

Ring Psara, 18 karat yellow gold from the "Akina" collection by A&O, flexible and elastic, 84 brown and white brilliants with 2.6 cts
Opulent pendant and ring with natural amber from the current Quinn silver collection
Meister wedding ring from the design group Phantastics, white and 18 karat yellow gold with a diamond 0.065 ct
"Newport Royale" jewelry bracelet, collier, ring with exchangeable insert and watch by Michel Herbelin. Stainless steel, 18 karat gold and diamonds
Brooch by Willhelm Buchert made of 21.6 karat yellow gold with a pin, 45 mm diameter, 1 cultured pearl from Tahiti and 1 brown brilliant
Francoise & Claude Chavent, "Slab", set of 3 pins in black steel 18 karat yellow gold, numbered and limited to 7 pieces of each, size of the object: 125 x 75 mm

The standards are duly high at the world's largest presentation at a trade fair. The wheat is quickly separated from the chaff in a direct comparison. It quickly becomes clear if a nice idea doesn't make the cut or the playful handling of cliches or quotes is insubstantial or even kitsch.

Necklace pendant by Ute Buchert-Büge, 21.6 karat yellow gold with platinum and 11 white brilliants
Brooch/pendant "Mask" by Aninka Harms, mounted silver, peridot in a context cut
"Flexible Rings" by Nane Adam, new patented ring system with flexible nylon strings (stretch magic) for different sizes - wide range of colors and different styles
Ring by Versace. White gold, diamonds, sapphires
"Skin": rings "meat or fish", rings and cufflinks "homesick for the black forest", by Jürgen Glaser. Precious metals with rusting tool steel
Funny Bracelet by Ruth Sellack, silver strap from the Funny series, with 6 freshwater cultured pearls from China

The whole breadth of design

People presenting at the inhorgenta throw themselves to the mercy of the specialists. There is no jury that decides in advance, only the judgement of the marketplace. And that's the way it should be, if one consideres the high standards of products on offer in Munich. This is why the designer hall not only brings together artists, but also accommodates forums such as "brand new - new brand", "Creative" and "Concepts and Innovation". There are also presentations by the "Gruppe Juni" Philipp Becker and the Bavarian Handicrafts Association. Design-orientated jewelry manufacturers such as Niessing, Pur, Fillner, Pars pro Toto or Ehinger-Schwarz are also found here on the Designer's Avenue. After all, the boundaries between those that manufacture unique jewelry, jewelry designers and manufacturers of small series are fluid. Angela Hübel is a good example of this, in addition to Carl Dau and André Ribeiro. The "Goddess of the Rings" time and again perfectly unites her own signature with what jewelers and customers want, so that she could product a lot more than she actually does. However, she draws a conscious line here in order ot preserve the mystique of exlusivity.

Tie clip and brooch designed by Jacek Byczewski, both made of steel, gold and zirconium, represented by Deco Echo
"Sun stone" by Esther Ackermann, silver, mountain crystal with Madeira citrine
Ring "stone on stage" by Michael Berger. Stainless steel, demantoid
Porcelain jewelry "Coral", looped chain, gold-plated silver with porcelain elements by Nicola Brand
Current Rivoir ring, 18 karat white gold, brilliant
Necklace by Swarovski
Ring "Kaufrausch" (Purchase-Intoxication) by Yvonne les Criner. Peridot, sterling silver, letter "Women always buy something"

The visions that inspire the jewelry makers are echoed in an increasingly large number of providers who reflect their design on artists, or who develop jewelry collections with their assistance. In this, the materials that are used are equally in the focus of attention as the countless ideas on design, for example new cuts, lines, forms and colors.

"Branches" earrings made of fine silver, nylon and peridot by Isabelle Falzarano
"Talisman in Color" by Antje Mokross. Enamel on gold
Parchment jewelry by Hilde Janich, dyed parchment, cultured pearls, dyed nylon thread
Pendant "ideas of space" by Claudia Frey, sterling silver with aquamarine
Ring Apollon by Nikos, in platinum or 18 karat gold, with 3 pure and white diamonds in princess cut, 0.45 ct set. Oval cufflinks Arion in 18 karat yellow and white gold
Silverware that expresses the lightness, transparency and malleability of Japanese paper. By Kazuko Nishibayashi
Ring by Sophia Hobein, 18 karat palladium white gold, aquamarine, naturally brown diamonds
Pentagonal ring, silver, faceted mountain crystal in the form of a prism, Babette von Dohnanyi
Ring by Stefan Bayer. Snail "Strombus Gigad" from Florida, black Southsea pearl, pink sapphire
Pendant "Network" by Heike Panitz Thin spun platinum wires, diamond

Platform for Start-Ups Launched

For the second time, the jewelry Fair inhorgenta, which will be held in February 2004 in Munich, will offer start-ups the opportunity to present themselves and their work at a specially designed exhibition platform. The platform "brand new - new brand", which provided 20 young designers with the opportunity of staging an inexpensive and intensively supported presentation for the first time during the internationally significant jewelry fair in 2003, will accommodate 22 hopeful designers in its second year. The presentation of "brand new - new brand" in the design jewelry hall C2 is not only the first step in the limelight; the young graduates from international jewelry schools learn important steps in structuring collections, building a brand, presentation, pricing and communication in prepared seminars. The inhorgenta europe organizers can see the proof of their successful work during the first even not least on the basis of the pleasingly high numbers of participants in the first "brand new - new brand" who are now returning: Of the 20 start-ups in 2003, 13 are returning to inhorgenta 2004 as "normal" exhibitors. Cete

An object by a successful new designer in "brand new - new brand", inhorgenta 2003
Collection of pure silver by Bastian, design by Andrea Frahm
Necklaces and bracelets by Jacek Szczepanski, sterling silver, gold plated and patinated silver, represented by Deco Echo
Hellmuth sterling, white shell pearls, cubiz zirconium, rhodinated silver
Modular bracelet by Salima Thakker, silver and 18 karat yellow gold, dimesions 20 cm long, 2.5 cm high
Collier Cubes by Unk Kraus, photo foil set in gold leaf, laminated and opals, a green synthesis
Ring made of 18 karat yellow gold with a rubellite (red tourmaline) by Langes + Ufer
Ring "In the bushes" made of 18 karat yellow gold by Eva Strepp
Ring "Zigzag" made of sterling silver and 18 karat yellow gold by Martin Wittwer
Ring Doubles Uno by Thomas Stoffel, natural agate with aquamarine in a mirror cut, set in 18 karat white gold
Pebble necklaces by Tezer Design. Sterling silver and gold
Pendant and rings by Andreas Ernst. Stainless steel, pearls
Pendant 18 + 24 K gold fire opals total 75,52 cts 4 diamonds braun natur total 1,65 cts dia. champagne coloured vsi total 0,49 cts

Innovation prize at the inhorgenta europe

The competence at inhorgenta with regard to design jewelry is emphasized in various competitions in which established companies and also young, upcoming jewelry manufacturers can take part. For example, the coveted inhorgenta Design Prize for excellent and trend-setting jewelry design was awardd for the 5th time already during the Design Podium. All exhibitors in the Designer Hall - jewelry designers from Europe and beyond are eligible to take part. A high-class, international jury of representatives from the crafts, art, science and journalistic sectors selected the commendable pieces and the four prizewinners.

Ring-watch ,,Au doigt et à l'oeil" by Sandrine Oppliger for Pierre Junod
Claudia Hoppe provides convincingly fresh, playful, boisterous and striking brooches and bracelets and reveals a conclusive introduction to her philosophy of jewelry
Yvonne Raab succeeds in integrating the dimension of "time" in her friendship rings. The rings are embedded in soap and are therefore exposed slowly
Felt jewelry by Karin Wagner, a pioneer in the use of wool as a material for contemporary jewelry
Watch "Bubble Bango" with integrated glass bubble by Alfex. Elasten 3000, dome of magnifying glass, polished steel lunette
Round unit pendant & ring, sterling silver, 18 karat yellow gold, Noriko Matsumoto
Necklace "Coral Beetle" by Sibylle Umlauf. Beaten iron, etched, 21.6 karat gold, old Russian coral

Noriko Matsumoto from London received one of the equally prestigious prizes for her delightful study on module and reproduction. Her joyful elements, which are reminiscent of comic figures, become a successful unit in their transformation and succession.

Collier swing from the Schoeffel Classic Collection, Tahiti cultured pearls, colored sapphires, brilliants gvs, 18 karat white gold
Rings "Trio Flach" and "Perle Zeierlei" by Angela Hübel. 18 karat yellow gold

Claudia Hoppe from Düsseldorf convinced not only in her fresh, playful, colorful and symbolic brooches and bracelets, but also with the entire concept of her jewelry design.

Coral bracelet by Anna Maria Walkner

Yvonne Raab, Atelier eigenhändig from Augsburg, succeeds in integrating the dimension of time in her friendship rings. The rings are embedded in soap and are therefore exposed gradually.

Ring by Ursula Hall. Stainless steel, gold wire, freshwater cultured pearls, various natural stones

A pioneer of felt jewelry, Karin Wagner from Basel, was honored as the 4th prizewinner. Time and again, she has presented wool as a material for contemporary jewelry in virtuoso creations. Her tightrope walk of quoting apparently kitschy ornaments, ironic dissolution and charming and playful representation is convincing. The work by roughly 30 selected participants in the competition, including the four prizewinners, are on show in the spectacular special exhibition on the "Designer's Avenue", which runs as a central axis through the entire Hall C2 like a catwalk.

Ring "Fassungslos" by Kubik. Platinum, brilliant
Pendant in platinum and "ruffled" fine gold with brilliants, perpendicular pendant in 18 karat yellow gold with citrine and brilliants by Ehinger-Schwarz
Three Lady's rings with aquamarine and peridot from the "Palazzo" series by Buchwald. The 8.96 ct green peridot is ornamented by 148 brilliant-cut diamonds and 25 topaz baguettes. The ring above features 6.73 ct aquamarine with 148 brilliant-cut diamonds and 25 peridots. The large aquamarine weighs 19.62 ct. and is surrounded by 140 brilliant-cut diamonds and 29 peridots
Ring by Cédé. Silver, blue topaz
Rings by Bunz. Platinum, colored stones in aqua-blue and white in Pyramid diamond cut
Rings made of Indian rubber with brilliants by André Ribeiro

Visual presentation of international jewelry art

Karin Wagner is also present at the new platform "Forum International". In view of the fact that it is difficult at times to find an adequate presentation for extravagant jewelry on standard trade fair booths, the fair has designed an entire eye-catching stand for small, creative companies. The aim was and remains to emphasize the special features of the presented work through providing and adequate stand design and to enable the designers to travel lightly. The stand plays host to Allan Scharff from Denmarl, a classic among the widely appreciated Scandinavian gold and silversmiths. His soft, flowing and bimorph forms make viewers almost forget that virtuoso, intensive hand crafting can make the work appear so light and effortless. The jewelry concept Switch by Heinz Laible offers a possibility of transformation. It is a simple, but therefore also striking ring concept for playful people, who wish to greet the manifold requirements of our age with beauty. The latest, still incomplete work by Allan Scharff and Heinz Laible will be on show at the inhorgenta. Hilde Janich continues the succession of imaginative objects with the blaze of color found in her parchment jewelry. Enchanting compositions crinkle and sway, while overlapping scales and light leave splay and complement the body of the person wearing it.

Ring 18 karat yellow gold with cultured pearl and pink tourmaline from the Edition Maxime by Perlen Yukie
Ring by Helene M. Apitzsch. Platinum, diamonds
"Links ist das Meer" (the sea is on the left hand side) is like an object washed ashore on the beach. Inside the object there is a pictorial message, but this picture only becomes clear if the "broken glass" is thrown back into the water. The message is about finding and carrying away, or about the way back into the sea. By Freudama + Sodele
Pendant "Atlantis" by Niessing. Aryl, fine gold
Fochtmann, Palladio Line, hand made rings 18 karat yellow gold, Madeira citrine in buffop cut with 42 brilliants of 1.22 ct TW/IF and peridot in bufftop cut
Ring made of stainless steel by C.-F. Dau, consisting of two parts that are worn loosely interlinked
Sea Star Set by Beruning, 18 karat white gold with amethyst, blue sapphires, tsavorite and brilliants

Design-oriented production

Leading international brands and manufacturers also leave their watermark on the topic of design in Munich. Renowned producers such as Apitzsch, Cédé, Isabelle Fa, Stefan Haffner, Henrich & Denzel, Jochen Pohl or Georg Spreng are found at the Platinum Forum. The pacemakers in gemstone cutting include experts such as Engel & Co., Färber, Groh + Ripp or Paul Wild.

Pendants "Shots" by Zebra
Felt chain "Nette" with stainless steel by Antje Obreiter
Necklace by Marcin Zaremski, silver, oxidized silver, copper, amber and a rope
Mechanical watch "Digital 02" by Schauer with stainless steel housing and sapphire glass
Rings by Krzysztof Ginko for E. Aniol. Silver, gold
Ring by Xen, stainless steel with freshwater cultured pearl
Collier and bracelet by Jacek Wysokinski for E. Aniol, silver gold-plated silver
Necklace "Attention" by Rita Franze, iron wire, enameled copper and gold-plated copper, varnish

Jewelry is once more increasingly made of yellow gold, while the platinum trend persists. However, the collections are also more and more drawing on unusual jewelry materials such as plastic, wood and felt. The selection of materials remains more courageous, as consumers are accepting the new materials and are handling the "unreal" jewelry with confidence. Jochen Exner, CEO at Niessing, believes that the decisive factors are the forms, the design ideas and the creative potential of a place of jewelry. In general, the forms will be slightly more organic in 2004, without being overloaded with decoration. Softer, rounded forms are in the foreground.

Necklace "Honey" by Ulrike Weyrich. Freshwater cultured pearls, citrine, tourmaline leafs, 18 karat yellow gold
Ring "Tonga" by Apero Switzerland. Stainless steel

Pearls are becoming increasingly significant as an element of jewelry design. Individual, extraordinary jewelry is all the rage. An unbelievable richness of colors and forms open up new opportunities for cultured pearl jewelry. In general, a more feminine design is prevalent. Pearls in rare color tones and unusual forms are combined and perfectly complemented with sparkling brilliants and colored stones.

Rings "TamoR" with brilliant and ceramic inlay and key ring by TeNo

In view of the fact that the spring/summer fashion will in general be very feminine, jewelry will play a greater role than in the past. Women will wear a lot of fifties look, flowing materials and seductive pieces. Gold is perfectly suited to this. There is also jewelry that symbolizes nature and naturalness to match the numerous flower prints. Flowers, animals and snakes as motifs are popular. Stones with warmth and spiritual significant suit the fashion trend well, for example coral or jade.

Zebra Design GmbH • Kurfürstenstr. 131 • 10785 Berlin fon +49-30-230 990-0 •

by Peter Henselder

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Peter Henselder

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