Intergem: First Address for Gemstones


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By Axel HenselderMore from this author

Hosting over 130 exhibitors and welcoming roughly 3,000 show guests from all over the world, the Intergem is the leading international, specialist show for gemstones. This is where jewelry manufacturers, goldsmiths and designers stock up with new materials for sparkling dreamlike jewels and seek information on new trends and gemstone discoveries.

Intergem

Intergem 2006 will take place in ldar-Oberstein from September 29 to October 2, 2006. The world of gemstones is at home in Idar-Oberstein. If new gemstone deposits are discovered anywhere in the world, for example the recent new discovery of Paraiba tourmaline, it is fair to assume that ldar-Oberstein will be in on it. It is this close link to the leading firms that makes this trade show the most important meeting place for purchasers from all over the world. Visitors here will find a unique range of rough stones and set jewelry from over 50 countries in the world. Small producers also exhibit at the Intergem, and the variety on offer benefits as a result. In addition, ldar- Oberstein represents a cluster of know how for processing colored gemstones and diamonds that is unique in the world. Together with innovative ideas, this established expertise continually provides impulses for new cuts.

This is where Germany's gemological competence is at home. The leading gemstone and diamond testing laboratories and numerous industry institutions such as the Office of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) or the Polytechnic College for Gemstone and Jewelry Design all have their headquarters in ldar-Oberstein. The Intergem reaps the rewards of the booming demand for colored gemstones. Fashion designers around the globe are increasingly presenting gaudy, joyful creations on the catwalks. And that calls for matching jewelry to show its colors. Red tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline and aquamarine are important topics this year due to the current fashion colors. In addition, there is a tendency to use larger stones in jewelry Intergem offers a large selection, especially in this bracket. Simply due to their value, the stones require significant specialist competence in processing. This is why large stones are mainly cut in ldar-Oberstein and not in the Far East.

The Intergem offers visitors an extensive supporting program, also featuring numerous master classes by high-profile lecturers. For the second time now, young designers will be setting new standards, presenting their work under the motto "Zeitzeichen" (Signs of the times). The 11th Intergem GZ Golf Cup on the Golf Club Edelstein Hunsrück e.V. course with its spectacular views of the German central mountain range ensures that there is welcome variety in the hustle and bustle of trade show business. www.intergem.de

Gemstones as a Reflection of Time

"Moonstones and fire opals are in fashion, and will remain so," believes the gem expert Constantin Wild. Wild, from ldar-Oberstein, is the fourth generation to head W. Constantin Wild & Co., established in 1847. He considers the two stones to be a reflection of our time, with all of the associated contradictions: "That includes the return to traditional values, together with harmony with nature and a tendency towards individuality and exclusivity. Classical styles are back in demand at the beginning of the 21st century." According to Wild, all of these requirements "are satisfied by the fire opal, with its varying appearance and different cuts, as well as the moonstone."

Fire opals and moonstones by Constantin Wild

The Mayas and Aztecs were early appreciators of the precious "Quetzalitzlipyollitli", the "bird of paradise stone", as they called the fire opal. Transparent, non-opalizing stones can be beveled to traditional, sparkling jewels. In addition to their fiery color, the high-quality opalizing stones also display the typical range of colors. Their expressive character is well-suited to use in designer jewelry - cut to a variety of forms or polished and left in their natural shapes. The caressing, oval, cabochons in contrast are considered the classical shape for precious opals, as they bring their powerful luminescence to bear the best.

Extravagant and classic, sophisticated, sensual and esoteric - the reputation of the moonstone is also one of contradictions. The return to conservative values such as family and etiquette has brought the blue moonstone back into the spotlight. The stone was very popular around a hundred years ago, in the Art Nouveau period. Its discrete color and blue shimmer make the moonstone ideal for jewelry with a discretely feminine radiance.

The more intensive, larger and transparent, the more valuable this gemstone is. Especially fine blue moonstones display a "three dimensional" depth of color that becomes more apparent with movement. Examples such as this are very rare. Constantin Wild works almost exclusively with high-quality moonstones from Sri Lanka and from the newly-discovered deposits in Tanzania. Only those are shimmering with such an extravagantly intensive blue on an almost transparent background. The fact that finest quality moonstones have become scarce in recent years has led to a sharp increase in prices.

Moonstones are always cut in the classical cabochon forms. Only experienced cutters are able to create adularescence in the stones, that is to enhance the sensual shimmer to its full effect. The decisive factor in this is the optimal height of the stone and the axes of the crystal, which must point directly toward the zenith of the stone in order to achieve the mysterious light effect. www.gemstone.de

The Entire Spectrum of Keshi Cultured Pearls

As a highlight of the 2006/2007 season Perlen Yukie offers the complete range of Keshi cultured pearls, from Akoya and fresh water to South Sea and Tahiti Keshi cultured pearls. The Keshi 6 la Carte motto of the Merzig-based pearl specialist focuses primarily on the large selection of Akoya Keshi cultured pearls in a variety of colors, from gray and crème to beige, in baroque shapes. The pearls are offered for sale in sizes ranging from 1.5 to six millimeters, with metallic luster. All products on offer are rough goods, i.e. strands for the Akoya Keshi cultured pearls and lots for the South Sea and Tahiti Keshi cultured pearls in a range of different shapes and colors. A specialty of Perlen Yukie is South Sea Keshi cultured pearls in sizes from two to five millimeters. Shapes vary from round pearls to buttons, oval and drop-shaped cultured pearls in the colors silver-gray to gold.

A further highlight is the Tahiti Keshi cultured pearls offered as long, baroque, drop-shaped pearls in sizes up to 20 millimeters. Perlen Yukie is using new ideas to address the topic of seed pearls, the Suna Keshis, familiar from the traditional necklaces of 50 to 100 rows. In its fine necklaces, the company combines seed pearls with black diamonds or gemstones in three or five rows. With their unique creations, the designers aim to rejuvenate the image of these particular cultured pearls. The jewels offer an understatement with rarities, discrete but nonetheless eye-catching and distinctive. Perlen Yukie hopes to use this to herald a new era for seed pearls.

The jewelry collection with Akoya Keshi cultured pearls has been expanded to include new open pearl scarves. Here too, the combination with various gemstones stands out. The jewelry collection is intended for pearl lovers with an eye for the unusual, who are not satisfied with standard pieces. "We want to move away from the traditional image of cultured pearls, toward modern, younger jewelry collections," explains the Managing Director of Perlen Yukie, Boris Dillenburger. www.perlenyukie.com

Seed pearls with sapphires by Perlen Yukie
Colored Gemstones by Groh + Ripp

The Magical Colors of Fall

Colored gemstones contain the whole range of nature's hues. Jewelry designers can use them much in the style of a painter, capturing the seasons, moods and light. The warm orange to glowing red tones of fall are expressed with mandarin garnet, Madeira and Palmeira citrines and red tourmalines. The renowned Idar-Oberstein gemstone cutters Groh + Ripp have numerous brilliant individual stones, together with calibrated goods from this spectrum of colors in their range. The company has been an expert partner for all gemstone processors since 1953. 38 employees ensure that every customer requirement is met: beginning with the fine, individual hand work and moving on to series production using machines. The credo is first-class quality. The company is a supplier to leading gold, watch and watch dial producers, as well as jewelers, designers and goldsmith studios. The family-run company maintains a constant stock of cut standard sizes, as well as fine individual stones and accessories. Groh + Ripp has over 70 different varieties of stones in their range. www.groh-ripp.de

Paraiba tourmaline in different cuttings. Brooch with beryl by Tom Munsteiner

Gemstones as World of Experience

"A staged experience, imagination visualized by handcrafted art," was how Hermann Spaan, professor at the University of Applied Sciences in Trier, described the cuts of Tom Munsteiner at the opening of a studio exhibition. The works of this renowned gemstone designer from Stipshausen have already been awarded numerous international prizes. Master gemstone cutter Tom Munsteiner is also a gemologist. He sculpts gemstones freehand. He is fascinated by the matter of crystals, most of them are more than 230 million years old. Tom Munsteiner likes to work with polished and matt surfaces. "It gives optical depth and means a reduction in the design," he explains. "I also experiment with geometric forms, I place a great emphasis on the total reflection of light." The stones that he works resemble sculptures. The cuts follow the natural crystal structures of each stone, thus serving to underscore its individual personality. As a consequence, each gemstone receives the cut best suited to it, as the 9.84 ct. Paraiba tourmaline in the current collection illustrates (right side in the middle). www.munsteiner-cut.de

Strong Comeback of the Classics

Karl Faller is recognized today by jewelers and manufacturers in this specialized area as the incarnation of perfect craftsmanship of the most genuine colored stones. The enterprise is characterized on the basis of tradition, creativity, art and expertise. The rubies by the company Karl Faller, vibrantly alive and full of energy, illuminate the vital color of red in different shades and special nuances. The most desirable one is the so-called "pigeon blood red" shade, a deep and pure red with a touch of blue. Magical powers have been attributed to ruby's intensity of color as a symbol of power, courage and dignity, with its everlasting fire that ultimately is never spent.

Blue, the color of the life source of water, is the most popular version of the sapphire. Ranging from a tender sky blue, the highly appreciated radiant "cornflower blue" and the preciously deep Kashmir blue, the sapphire impresses us due to its strong independent life of its own. This vitality, as well as its enormous radiance, make the sapphire the most desirable "stone for the day". Along with the colorless diamond, labeled as purely white, the red ruby, and the green emerald, the sapphire rounds up the quartet of jewels. Diverse and lively as our floral world - the emerald appears in its fascinating green. Its green color is so incomparable in nature that this color hue is labeled independently as "emerald green". Even in ancient times, the stone was perceived as the symbol for value and beauty.

Its intensive green color and transparency stand for finest quality. The emerald belongs to the beryl group, like the aquamarine and the beryl. It is regarded as the most precious among them. Transparency occurs only in its finest quality appearances. Especially today, the fine qualities of these three most desirable jewels determine the fashion trend of major jewelers and are in the focus of worldwide consumer interest once more. www.karl-faller.de

Gemstones by Karl Faller
Garnet cabochons made of selected, fine materials in all sizes are always available in constant quality by Lind
Case by Neuheuser. Intergem prize 2004

Accomplished Performance from Jewelry and Gemstones

The ldar-Oberstein company, founded in 1932 by August Neuheuser, was specializing in the requirements of the local gemstone and jewelry industry from an early stage. Today, the company is headed by Reiner Lex, a grandson of the company founder. The family-run company produces cases and sample cases, displays, shipping boxes, decoration material, display boards, busts and decorations for the optimum presentation of gemstones and jewels. Over 90 percent of the products on offer are made by the company itself. In addition, individual customer specifications are also met. Neuheuser.ombh@t-online.de

The Specialist for Garnet

Garnets are fascinating in their variety of color and brilliance. They are most excellently suited for processing as modern, high quality jewelry. Hermann Lind II is exclusively specialized in cutting garnets and offers a large range of standard and special processing. In view of the fact that the company has extensive stocks of uncut stones, all products are at all times available and can be cut to suit individual customer wishes. Standard sizes can be supplied from stock at all times. www.lindgranat.com

Laying Bare the Inimitable Character of the Stones

Careful craftsmanship that lends each stone its inimitable character, laying bare its inherent beauty, this is the constant challenge for the 40 employees at the firm Wild & Petsch, some of whom have been on board for many years, irrespective of whether they are dealing with individual pieces, pairs, sets, fantasy cuts or calibrated series products: The Idar Oberstein-based, traditional company stands for masterful quality in inimitable brilliance. Highly qualified masters, top class specialists in their fields, unite modern design, traditional craftsmanship and innovative technologies. In this way, they draw on natures treasures to create perfect artworks of permanent beauty and elegance. State of the art production facilities, comprehensive, constant quality control and excellently qualified employees are guarantors for the quality "Made in Germany by Wild & Petsch". The company offers this standard for individual pieces and also for small and large series. www.wildpetsch.com

Peridots by Wild & Petsch
Eye-catcher by Gebr. Kuhn: luminous green uwaworite
Crystal agate chain elements in navette form by Carola Schwinn

Extravagant Ideas in Stone

For generations now, the gemstone cutters Gebr. Kuhn from ldar-Oberstein have been known for their extravagant engravings and special cuts in the highest quality. State of the art technology combined with the highest craftsmanship among the staff enable top precision for standard cuts and exciting stone creations. Whether they are dealing with large series for the jewelry industry or individual, unique pieces for goldsmiths, the 18 employees at the company satisfy all customer wishes. The family firm presents engraved blossoms and leaves and also fantasy forms made of crystal, rutilite, rose quartz and amethyst specifically for creative goldsmiths to suit the currently popular reminiscence based on jewelry design in Art Nouveau. At the same time, Gebr. Kuhn offers numerous stones in standard sizes and cabochon form or faceted. The jewelry collection includes classic chains, balls and also racy ideas for young people. www.kuhngems.com

Gemstone Handling with Tradition

The family firm Carola Schwinn from ldar-Oberstein offers gemstone handling with tradition. A team of specialists made up of cutters, engravers and drillers, etc. finds individually the best solution for every gemstone. The company offers a large range of cut gemstones and gemstone chains. One example of this are the crystal agate chain elements in navette form, available in different colors and sizes. The stones are also suitable for pin jewelry and rings. In addition, the firm Schwinn offers jewelry stones of all kinds, individually designed. www.carola-schwinn.de

The Million Seller

Tradition and future are united at Paul Wild Thanks to a wealth of offers, own mines in Brazil and Kenya and the fabrication of major series in Thailand, the Kirschweiler-based company is a global player in the gemstone sector. The company cuts around one million stones a year. A broad range of over 90 gemstone types and variants makes a major contribution to the fact that the company is one of the most prominent addresses in the international jewelry industry "From the most reasonably-priced amethyst to the finest ruby, we meet every request and are able to react flexibly to trends in fashion," promises Hans-Werner Wild, who produces half to his own designs and half to patterns provided by the customer. Since 1995 the company has been producing major series in the Thai capital Bangkok, with 90 employees, with Kirschweiler concentrating on the production of premium individual items. The company offers unusual cuts and calibrated series goods, with a collection in all price classes. 90 percent of the jewels are exported. In Paraiba, in Brazil, the gemstone specialist has purchased a mine, in which 55 employees are active: the Paraiba tourmalines offer unique colors, from turquoise blue to emerald green. In Kenya, 65 employees are mining deposits for the company, with further reserves to be mined in neighboring Tanzania. www.paulwild.com

Tourmalines by Paul Wild
The turquoises by Herbert Fürstenberg set an example of high quality gemstone settings

Pearls by Miyabi Perlen

Where Gemstones are Formed

The Idar Oberstein-based company has offered high quality gemstone settings for over 80 years now. The family firm, run in the fourth generation, satisfies all wishes expressed by its discerning clientele, starting with series and small series production of various gemstone cuts and forms, individual stones, preliminary cutting work, engraving, coats of arms engravings, through to jewelry and art objects and mosaics. The philosophy of the gemstone specialists is to offer tailor made solutions that meet the customer needs. Based on their many years of experience, the staff at Fürstenberg appreciate the potential of each gemstone and how it can be brought to the forefront in the best possible manner www.herbert-fuerstenberg.de

30 years of Experience in the Pearl Business

The owner and managing director of Miyabi Perlen GmbH has been involved in the pearl business for almost 30 years and has excellent contacts with the Far East due to several periods of residency in China and Japan. Customers benefit from this experience, as he offers high quality cultured pearls from all over the world. He founded Miyabi Perlen in 1999, and one year later he purchased an equity interest in a pearl farm in China. This means that customers can buy top quality at first hand on the basis of interesting rates.

Gemstone Expertise

When dealing with high quality goods such as jewelry and gemstones, goldsmiths and jewelers must offer their customers more than just pretty products. It is competent and expert advice and specific background information that transform buyers into satisfied and above all loyal customers. Gemological expertise opens up new perspective for sales negotiations.

Training course at the education center of the Deutsche Gemmologische (DGemG)

Since it was founded in 1932, the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft e.V or German Gemological Society (DGemG) has provided specialist, theoretical and practical knowledge on gemstones. The education, training courses and seminars cover gemology, diamond studies and know-how on pearls and organic substances. The education center with its modern facilities, extensive exhibition and training collection and laboratory facilities with state of the art equipment mean that DGemG is Europe's largest teaching and research institute for gemstones. This is where one can learn about properties, deposits, identification possibilities and evaluation factors and also acquire the ability to distinguish between gemstones and their replicas and forgeries. This is where one meets interesting people from all over the world who all have one thing in common: fascination with gemstones.

The training building is located in the heart of the gemstone metropolis ldar Oberstein. In this town, old knowledge held by gemstone cutters is merged with the modern design impulses sent out by local artists and ateliers. These are the best conditions for practical education and training. www.dgemg.com

The World of Engraving, Faceted Gemstones and Cabochons

The firm Philipp Grimm was founded in the 19th century and renamed Hermann Grimm in 1926. The firm is now owned by the family in the 5th generation. The team consists of 20 cutters, specialized in many different kinds of processing gemstones, along with commercial staff of four. The customer orders are carried out with the greatest possible care.

The focus is on a natural product. Hidden away beneath the earth yesterday, and now, just a few days after being discovered and after tough negotiations, experts at Grimm make sure it is processed in the best possible manner. Due to its very extensive stocks of rough stones, the company is capable of cutting all faceted gemstones, cabochons and engravings (coats of arms and monograms, portraits, blossoms and flowers) in several qualities. One of the company's other specialties is individual processing of gemstones according to customer designs such as drawings or models. The employees can even tease difficult and extravagant forms out of the gemstones. There are practically no limits on the possible designs.

Whether it is finely lined agate from Brazil or the most precious tanzanite from Tanzania - all gemstones are waiting for the customers' individual wishes. The customers of the Idar Oberstein-based firm include renowned jewelry manufacturers, wholesalers, jewelers and designers around the world. www.h-grimm.com

Fine turquoise flowers, appr. 70 mm, by Hermann Grimm
A selection of different colored rough beryls by Hermann Grimm
Jewelry settings by ITA-Goldwaren
Swan's egg with a pair of swans made of mountain crystal with white gold, brilliants and aquamarine. By Emil Becker

Settings for Italian Moments

ITA-Goldwaren GmbH has been a reliable partner for jewelry settings in 18 karat gold and platinum for over 20 years, located in the heart of the gemstone and jewelry city of ldar-Oberstein. The passion for working with jewelry has now continued into the second generation in the family Milisenda. The ldar Oberstein-based company ITA-Goldwaren draws on the lightness of the Italian design individually in cooperation with its customers. The high quality jewelry settings enable a creative selection of the gemstone, so that any buyer can create their very own, personal collection. Within this framework, the entire range of fashionable, Italian jewelry is available, from the classic solitaire to Italian fashion jewelry. www.ita-goldwaren.de

Unusual Ideas in Gemstones

Emil Becker from Kirschweiler is a true master in the design of objects and gemstones. His work is striking in its precise detail and the magic interplay between the various gemstones. His work can be viewed in numerous museums and private collections around the world. His artworks are sold by renowned jewelers in the top addresses throughout the planet. For 30 years now among other things, Emil Becker has focused on the creation of topical eggs. He has already produced over 200 unique pieces in sizes ranging from ten to seventy centimeters. He is also famous for his objects in gemstone, gold and enamel. emilbecker@gmx.net

Innovative Competence and Experience of 120 Years

Intergem visitors will experience this rare combination when entering the Ph. Hahn Söhne booth. Dieter Hahn runs the classic family company as fourth generation, whereby the continuation in the fifth is already guaranteed. Ph. Hahn Sohne wrote 120 years of diamond history in Germany. More than 40 years Dieter Hahn is also active internationally as representative of the German diamond industry within the IDMA (International Diamond Manufacturers Ass.) and the WFDB (World Federation of Diamond Bourses) where he is active as General Treasurer since 1991. Jewelry manufacturers, jewellers and goldsmiths appreciate the competence of Dieter Hahn and his team. Whoever has written trade history for so long and is so deeply rooted in this industry is always on top of all information in that business. Naturally the partners of Ph. Hahn Söhne benefit from this. www.diamantschleiferei.de

Dieter Hahn, Ph. Hahn Söhne
Tourmalines by Michaelis

The Infinite Variety of the Tourmaline

The Michaelis company was founded in 1972 by Kerstin Michaelis. From its headquarters in Hamburg the company offers gemstone specialties all around the world. Michaelis enjoys an excellent reputation in particular for the excellent range of its tourmalines. It offers calibrated gems in the three main lines of classic, cut kaleidos and cabochons. Unique cuts, strings, discs and crystals in every color of the rainbow complete the product program. The tourmalines are drawn primarily from Brazil, Africa, Madagascar, Afghanistan and Nepal. Michaelis' customers are above all goldsmiths and jewelry designers in search of something special. www.turmalina.com

by Axel Henselder

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Axel Henselder

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