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Behind the Design

Get the stories behind the design of exquisite jewelry pieces and talented artists. Here you’ll find many styles and types of work represented.

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Engraving Machines

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces.  In this article we talk about Engraving Machines. See…

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Metal Analysis Tool

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces.  In this article we talk about Metal Analysis Tool. See…

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Digital Imaging

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces.  In this article we talk about Digital Imaging. See related…

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Business Software Tools

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces.  In this article we talk about Business Software Tools.…

Product
Jewelry Design DVD Set by Remy Rotenier

Learn how to create powerful jewelry design drawings, using free-hand sketching techniques with this master DVD set designed by expert jeweler, jewelry designer, artist and teacher Remy Rotenier.

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Enameling Care and Considerations

The primary reason designer Amy Roper Lyons of Summit, New Jersey, began working in enamels is fairly black and white: her jewelry needed color. “My first line was made of sterling with other non-precious materials,” she says. “It was…

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Megan Thorne on Lene Vibe’s Magical Jewelry

Megan Thorne, owner of Megan Thorne Fine Jewels in Fort Worth, Texas, loves antique jewelry. In fact, she shares that some of her pieces are based on her grandmother’s rings. So it doesn’t come as a surprise that one of Thorne’s favorite…

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Getting to know Mark Loren

This article is an interview with jewelry designer Mark Loren. Read on to get his insights and genius behind his jewelry and designs! ****************** When did you know you wanted to be a jewelry designer? I was good at science, so for a while…

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Paul Robilotti – Renaissance Collection

Paul Robilotti of Robilotti Fine Jewelers in Binghamton, New York, doesn’t like to let inspiration pass him by. He always travels with a sketchpad, ready to jot down ideas at a moment’s notice. His Renaissance collection, which he began…

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Catherine and Michael Jensen – A Fitting Tribute

It’s easy to name your favorite gemstone or metal to work in, but what if you had to name your favorite design? How could you choose? In this occasional column, we ask designers to identify their favorite piece and explain why it holds a special…

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2017 JCK Las Vegas Show Industry insights

The overarching theme in major presentations for the diamond and jewelry industry during the JCK Las Vegas Show in June is that times are changing and how we adapt to these changes will determine our success. The following are insights gleamed…

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MJSA Custom Jeweler – Brenda Smith

An Uncustomary Request – Creative freedom and some unusual pearls helped create an award-winning necklace by Brenda Smith. Let’s say you are given 27 of the largest freshwater, cultured, round pearls in the world, and told that…

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2017 MJSA Vision Awards Winners – Indepth

In the 1971 Film Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory, the title character invites Charlie (and us viewers) to “come with me, and you’ll be, in a world of pure imagination.” While you won’t find any golden tickets or chocolate bars…

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Cheuk Ying Kwan – Purposely Imperfect

Cheuk Ying Kwan Hong Kong Design Institute Hong Kong First Place, Future of the Industry Cheuk Ying Kwan, a student at the Hong Kong Design Institute, is on a roll. The year’s not over yet, and she’s already won two awards—a second runner-up…

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Leo Fried and Nanz Aalund – Siege of Herons

  Leo Fried and Nanz Aalund Blue Heron Jewelry Co. Poulsbo, Washington Responsible Practices Distinction Nanz Aalund was looking for a way to thank Leo Fried, owner of Blue Heron Jewelry Co. in Poulsbo, Washington, for offering her a…

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Ricardo Basta – Top Flight

Ricardo Basta Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry Los Angeles First Place, CAD/CAM Distinction Ricardo Basta believes in melding traditional jewelry-making techniques with the high precision of computer design. Both sides of the equation are…

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Adam Neeley – Alluring Curves

Adam Neeley Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Laguna Beach, California First Place, Laser Distinction Look back over the list of past Vision Award Laser Distinction winners and you’ll see that Adam Neeley’s name appears quite often. The…

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Zoe Zong – Sky Is the Limit

Zoe Zong ZoeZong LLC McKinley, Texas First Place, Professional Design Excellence (1-3 Years in Business) “We’re born, but we make changes along the road of life, perfecting our lives again and again.” Custom jewelry…

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Splendor Jewellery – A Labor of Love

Orsolya Ráski Nagy and Daniel Nagy Splendor Jewellery Budakeszi, Hungary First Place, Professional Excellence (4 or More Years in Business) “We saw the ring having a tangled, jungle-like effect while retaining balance and harmony.”

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Finding Inspiration with Marcia Budet

Marcia Budet didn’t set out to be a jewelry designer. Although she grew up collecting rocks, crystals, and hematites, she wound up pursuing degrees in architecture as an adult. Upon graduating with her master’s degree, Budet celebrated…

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Getting to know Mark Schneider

This article is an interview with jewelry designer Mark Schneider. Read on to get his insights and genius behind his jewelry and designs! ****************** How did you decide to enter the jewelry industry? My first choice of career was veterinarian.…

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17th Annual Saul Bell Design Winners

Saul Bell Design Award Winners Named. Rio Grande honored the winners of its 17th annual Saul Bell Design Competition at an awards dinner held during the Santa Fe Symposium in Albuquerque, New Mexico. The following is a sampling of winning…

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2017 Top Jewelry Trends

Discover the 2017 Top Jewelry Trends in gold, silver, and platinum—and an update on the metals markets as compiled by Shawna Kulpa. Gold Trends Flowers, Well-done Buddha Mama With darker colors and heavier fabrics gracing the fall runways,…

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Barbara Heinrich on John Iversen’s Aesthetic

Editor’s Note: If we are what we eat, then are we whom we wear? While wearing your own jewelry designs is a great (and free!)way to market your work, it may not always make sense or be practical. In this occasional column, we ask designers about…

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Playing Favorites with Dallae Kang

It’s easy to name your favorite gemstone or metal to work in, but what if you had to name your favorite design? How could you choose? In this occasional column, we ask designers to identify their favorite piece and explain why it holds a special…

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Tony Snodgrass: Flower Ring

You never know how visiting the doctor could change your life. While Tony Snodgrass of Kent Jewelry in Rolla ,Missouri, waited with his pregnant wife to be seen by their doctor, he was flipping through Missouri Conservationist magazine and…

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Fancy Color Diamonds

Coveted for their beauty and rarity, fancy color diamonds remain the hottest category in the diamond market. At gem and jewelry shows during the first half of 2017, including Baselworld in late March, fancy color diamonds were among the leading…

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2017 MJSA Vision Award Winners

Some designers find inspiration in the night sky, others in the natural world, and some in flowing architectural lines. This year’s winners of the MJSA Vision Award competition reflected all of that and more. On the following pages…

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Step by Step Guide to Fishtail Settings

One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off melee really well. It gets its name from the fact that when viewed from the side, the prongs flare out into two sections that resemble…

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Made in the USA 2017

MADE IN THE USA: Where We Stand is an update on the jewelry industry’s efforts to promote homegrown products. It happens every day: U.S. jewelry manufacturers and designers take precious metals and gemstones and, with their own hands,…

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Cross-Sectional Critique

This article is a  Cross-Sectional Critique of applying clipping planes to model manufacturability written by Darla Alvarez of GIA Jewelry Design & Technology Instructor. One of the potentially overlooked advantages of using CAD…

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Getting to Know Gregore Morin

This article is an interview with jewelry designer Gregore Morin. Read on to get his insights and genius behind his jewelry and designs! “I strive to pay attention to everything around me and bring it into my work.” – 

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Adel Chefridi: Homage

We’re all nostalgic for something. Usually, it’s reminiscence from our childhood, as in Adel Chefridi’s case. Chefridi, owner of Adel Chefridi Studio in Kingston, New York, fondly recalls his boyhood wanderings through the ruins…

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Creating Equal Divisions in Stone Setting

Below are steps for an easy way to create equal divisions in setting stones that jewelers need to know. Dividing something into equal parts is something jewelers do all the time. For example, you may have to set stones equally around a ring band…

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Computer Design of Jewelry

Professions and professional skills change over the years. In this context, it is an undeniable fact that computers have revolutionized the world of communication. So people still unfamiliar with basic handling of a mouse and software programs

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Earthly Art of Breathtaking Beauty

The works of the British environmental sculptor Andy Goldsworthy are never actually complete, but are always either in the process of being created or of being destroyed. His works of art are particularly fascinating, perhaps precisely

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Design for the Way Things Are: Survey of Ideas

New Jewelry Ideas from Other Realms of Experience “Meaning brings form with it; form is never without meaning” Johann Wolfgang von Goethe Twice a year, the new English-language magazine GZ ART+ DESIGN will supplement the GZ by offering…

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2008 Enamel Foundation Conference

Our second conference was a success! The conference started promptly at 9 a.m., August 18 – a beautiful sunny day. Ben Caldwell’s demonstration of his double-torch, large-scale enameling was first up. He setup on the Thompson’s…

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Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree

Victoria Lansford on the art of filigree—Russian or otherwise BOX: The Art of Handcraft Every jewelry designer can pinpoint the thing that first called her to the art. It may have been seeing something in a museum, or finding a delicate heirloom…

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Sustainable Alternatives

Jewelers redefining what it means to source responsibly Martin Taber is happy. “I am living in a world where people are actively concerned with the ecological approach. I’m free to operate more to my conscience than to the demands of shareholders,”…

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1991 National Metal Competition

Cu3, as a national metal competition, was a sequel – albeit more than ten years later – to Copper 2 (1980) and to the Copper, Brass and Bronze Competition in 1977. The first two exhibitions were shown at the Museum of Art at the University of…

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The Jewelry Art of Lisa Gralnick

Lisa Gralnick makes jewelry of rare power from imagined artifacts of our own time. Its extraordinary impact derives from her sure compositional eye and her success in focusing our attention on forms which, in an important sense, epitomize…

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Mark Stanitz: Material Evidence

The life and work of Mark Stanitz are a study in balances and contrasts. His physical life is lived in a structured, thoughtful and mannered way. His inner world is worked out through his artwork with an unquestioned faith. With the exception…

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Lynda Watson-Abbott: Visual Diaries

Some people keep written diaries, others carry a camera, while others use the latest in video technology to record their memories. Then there’s Lynda Watson-Abbott. She does keep photographs, postcards, rocks, bits and pieces of metal…

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Metalsmith ’91 Winter: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1991 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Armanda Lise Penuidic, Martha Glenny, Charlie Buck, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Body Art Exhibition

“Body Art Exhibition,” an exhibition sponsored by Security Pacific Corporation, on view from September 8 to October 21, 1990, was curated by Mark Johnstone and Wendy Mickell. Eleven art jewelers, from both North America and…

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Ed Levin: 40 Years of Craft Jewelry

It is only within the past two decades that craft jewelry has become big business. From a marketing viewpoint, the movement, circa 1990, has come a long way since the likes of Sam Kramer, Ed Weiner, Art Smith and Paul Lobel intimidated, cajoled…

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Caroline Broadhead: Jewelry and Beyond

Deborah Norton interviewed Caroline Broadhead regarding her recent retrospective at the Crafts Council in London and her recent change from jewelry to clothing. Deborah Norton (D): Your recent retrospective at the Crafts Council in London…

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Barbara Heinrich: Casual Perfection

The textured surfaces of Barbara Heinrich’s gold jewelry deceive with their simplicity. At first glance, they clearly appear to be reticulated, but even the most casual second look reveals a complexitiy that is the happy marriage…

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Chunghi Choo: The Energy Qi

Chunghi Choo captures her joyful creativity in sensuous forms and beguiling surfaces, but, despite this sumptuousness, simplicity harmony and tranquility are always integral to her work. Born in Korea, she took a B.F.A. at Ewha Women’s…

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William Harper: Artist as Alchemist

It seems only just, when so many barriers are collapsing, that one of the more prophetic artists of the late 20th century should work in the so-called minor craft of jewelry. By instinct, intelligence and conviction, William Harper has been…

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Process Oriented Metal Education

Art school is in some ways a difficult place to learn to be a metalsmith. Traditionally, it took industry from three to seven years of concentrated time to educate a goldsmith. This is because, as Jamie Bennett puts it, metals are “process-oriented…

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The Practice of American Craft

The practice of American craft is set against the larger phenomenon of industrialization: every aspect of craft compares to and competes with mass production. This condition has been basic to craft since 1945, when the war effort killed off…

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Metalsmith ’91 Summer: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1991 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Aaron Farber Gallery, James Meyer, Mel Wolski, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Cultural Myths Defining Jewelry

A woman’s job evaluation included the observation that she showed unmistakable signs of penis envy. “The unmistakable signs were. . . her dangling earrings. Why would a woman wear jewelry that dangles if she did not envy the one…

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Claire Falkenstein: Never-Ending Universe

Claire Falkenstein is a master of linear metal sculpture. Hers is not an art of solid form, as relating to space and mass, but of a cursive gesture – a scribble in the air. It is essentially a public or display art and is directed not to the private…

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Charles Loloma: Spirit of the New

On January 7, 1921, a son was born to Rex of the Sand and Tobacco Clan and Rachael Loloma of the Badger Clan, Hotevilla, Arizona. Rex was an accomplished weaver and respected moccasin maker; Rachael, an excellent basket maker. The family lived…

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A Conversation with John Marshall

John Marshall was born in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania in 1936. After serving in the Armed Forces and doing construction work, Marshall began his college study in 1958 with one year of business administration. By 1960 his attention had been redirected…

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Fads and Fallacies: Renegade Ornament

Over the last several years, a growing number of North Americans have been obtaining nontraditional pierces. Pierced penises, nipples, navels, clitorides and noses have been proliferating. Sometimes this is the result of individuals…

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Metalsmith ’91 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1991 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features William Baran-Mickle, Joan Parcher, Philip Sajet, Peter Chang, and more!…

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Wendy Ramshaw: Picasso’s Ladies

Those of us who have been following Wendy Ramshaw’s work, for close to 20 years, hove come to anticipate the fluid evolution of her personal language. She takes on challenges with great deliberation and resolve; even chance effects…

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The Life Works of Carl Jennings

This past fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee mounted a retrospective exhibition of the work of master metalsmith C. Carl Jennings. A graduate of the California School of Arts and Crafts in 1934, Jennings worked…

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Tom Markusen: Holloware Maker with Integrity

It may surprise some, judging from Tom Markusen studio output, that the production objects are handmade, without the use of dyes, props or molds. The objects are smithed straight from the forge, from red to black heat, from the mid-section…

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Ted Muehling: Sensual Punctuation

Before moving his studio operation to a ground-floor space in Soho, just last year, Ted Muehling lived and worked in a kunstkammer. His round-the-clock environment teemed with several thousand “found treasures.” Aside from…

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Galleries: Rezac Gallery – Conceptual Relationships

Rezac Gallery, a space devoted to avant-garde jewelry and decorative arts, opened in May, 1988 on West Superior Street in Chicago. With the stated aim of identifying and promoting the conceptual relationships between fine and decorative…

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Art and Technics: Superstitious Beliefs

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1992 Spring issue, Tim McCreight talks about superstitions and superstitious…

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Metalsmith ’91 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1991 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Jan Brooks Loyd, Joy Pennick, Carolyn Morris Bach, Steven Brixner, and…

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The State of Metalsmithing and Jewelry

This article is a continuing dialogue on the State of Metalsmithing and Jewelry by Donald Friedlich and Judith Mitchell with to two jewelers, a curator, a collector and a gallery owner. “I am not an expert in jewelry…I feel uneasy about…

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Rebekah Laskin: Material Voice

Rebekah Laskin is an enamelist with a new subtlety and depth of purpose unique to the metalsmithing community. She has taken a medium that has been if not predictable or stagnant, then at least possessed of a rigid hierarchy and turned it on its…

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The Jewelry of Glenda Arentzen

At mid-career, goldsmith Glenda Arentzen still produces jewelry with the freshness that has been her hallmark for a quarter of a century. It permeates whatever she makes, appearing not only in lively, asymmetrical profiles, but also in details:…

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Thomas Gentille: Performance of the Ephemeral

Although Thomas Gentille has the distinction of having a black ceramic glaze named for him, it is his little-known recovery of an ancient eggshell surface for jewelry that marks for him an emblematic achievement. Eggshell, the skin of the…

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Art and Technics: Supplies and Materials

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design. For this 1991 Fall issue, Tim McCreight talks about to get the best supplies and materials.…

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In Memory of Adda Husted-Andersen, 1900-1990

On September 13, 1990, Adda Husted-Andersen, familiarly known as Andy, died in Copenhagen, Denmark, her native land. She was a very special lady with a mischievous twinkle in her eye. After training in Denmark as a metalsmith, and studying…

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Metalsmith ’90 Summer: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1990 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Marjorie Schick, William Underhill, Joy Scott, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Paul A. Lobel: Innovator of Mid-Century Design

The accomplishments of Paul A. Lobel, industrial designer, metalsmith, sculptor and cartoonist/illustrator, may be viewed as the quintessential American success story. Born in Romania, at the turn of the century, he emigrated to the United…

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Observations on Miniature Sculptures

When Lewis Carroll wrote Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, he modeled his narrative on fairy tales and used nonsense as a means to astonish and contradict expectations of his Victorian audience, rejecting their sense of reason, moral…

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Elsa Freund on Elsaramic Jewelry

We are often drawn to the naïve sensibility of self-taught artists in any medium. The fresh, unassuming quality of their work provides an antidote to a pervasive slickness of our highly technological society. Here, Bob Ebendorf recalls…

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June Schwarcz: The Malleable Vessel

Vessel and vesselmaking come the closet to establishing a universal language form; encompassing ceramic pots, holloware, fiber baskets, glass and wood-turned bowls, they are common to all media. In this focus on June Schwarcz’s…

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The Intimate World of Alexander Calder

The real Alexander Calder is to be found in the intimate work – the toys, gadgets, jewelry – those delightful preoccupations of his that often get overshadowed by the big mobiles that hang in many public spaces. It’s no wonder that…

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An Interview with Garth Clark

In September of 1988, the CDK Galleries opened their doors. Partners Garth Clark, Mark Del Vecchio and Wayne Kuwada presented the work of 11 carefully selected American jewelers including Fred Woell, Lisa Gralnick, Robin Quigley, Jamie…

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Art and Technics: Materials

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1990 Summer issue, Tim McCreight talks about the materials that can be found…

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Metalsmith ’90 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1990 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Pamela Lins, Randy Long, Cara Croninger, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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The American Kayserzinn Pewter Exhibition

The first American exhibition of Kayserzinn Pewter, the trademark for art pewter ware manufactured at the turn of the century by J.P. Kayser Sohn of Krefeld, Germany, occupied the changing exhibitions area in the design installation floor…

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Gerda Flöckinger: First Lady of British Jewelry

Starting in the early 1950s, Gerda Flöckinger worked to change the face of British jewelry. Others joined her fledgling crusade, only to drift off to other fields, or to other countries, where the contemporary jewelry movement was more established.…

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Mac McCall: Wizard of Ambiguity

Mac McCall is a Western shaman, or, as Elizabeth Sasser claims, a wizard of ambiguity. In this focus, she offers an inside look at the workings of his current jewelry, which, in many ways, forms a mythic narrative drawn from cultures separated…

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Susan Kingsley: Enlightened Embranglements

Susan Kingsley’s work has involved a long, determined struggle with the role of a woman artist in the field of jewelry and metalsmithing. In her new, introspective series of sculptures, she has turned to fashioning objects of utility…

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The Enamelwork of Jamie Bennett

It is a rare and most welcome event when a technical innovation is accompanied by an esthetic revelation. This is the core with Jamie Bennett’s new work, a series of brooches, whose electroformed armature is covered with what…

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Ornamenta 1: Jewelry Classifications

To commit oneself in the jungle of jewelry classifications, categories and specification; to express an absolutely clear definition is an extremely difficult venture. There is costume jewelry, gem-set jewelry, designers’ jewelry,…

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Metalsmith ’90 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1990 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Elizabeth Chenoweth Palmer, Donald Friedlich, Rodney McCormick, Ken Bova,…

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1990 SNAG Conference Review

This article is a review by Betsy Douglas of the 1990 SNAG Conference held in San Francisco, CA on March 14 – 17, 1990. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Bridges bring people together. “Bridges,” the theme of this conference, brought…

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1985 SNAG Conference Review

The statement below could well have been made by many individuals upon reflection on their friends and colleagues. But in this case it is an excerpt from the International Exchange panel of the 1985 SNAG conference. Our professional ties,…

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Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith

From 1988 to 1989, German goldsmith Hermann Jünger was celebrated in his native country with a major retrospective of his work since 1945. More recently, in the spring of 1990, a new series of necklaces by Jünger was the subject of an exhibition…

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Harlan Butt: Garden Anagogies

Strictly speaking, the metalworker’s contribution to the Japanese tea ceremony is confined primarily to the teakettle. This accoutrement traditionally has been overshadowed in the ceremony, as well as in the history of art, by the…

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Harold Hasselschwert: Materialization of the Exotic

Possibly of another time and almost certainly of another place, Hal or Harold Hasselschwert enamels entice the imagination with the exuberant colors and patterns, and their delicate constructions. His elegantly enameled panels speak…

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Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth

Last fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee hosted a retrospective of the work of Helen Shirk. Nearly 70 pieces, from her early silver work in the late 1960s, to her recent patinated copper and brass vessels, confirmed…

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Art and Technics: Franklin Porter

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1990 Fall issue, Curtis K. LaFollette talks about the machinist Franklin Porter.…

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The Enamelware of Leila Tai

Jewelry artist Leila Tai is renowned for her extraordinary one-of-a-kind pieces celebrating perfection in nature and for her masterful use of the 15th Century technique “plique a jour.” Born and raised in Beirut, Lebanon,…

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The Economics of Ornamenta 1

The Economics of Ornamenta 1 is a letter by Dr. Joachim Becker, Mayor of the City of Pforzheim, stating what economic boost the event will bring to his city and the benefits designers and artists will get from the exhibition. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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The Anatomy of Ornamenta 1

In this article, Marjan Unger describes what Ornamenta 1 means and is all about. It contains information when and how Ornamenta 1 was created and the artists that gave a big hand on its success. The Anatomy of Ornamenta 1 The number 1, added…

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Metalsmith ’90 Spring: Book Reviews

This article is a book review of 3 books from 3 authors in the 1990 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine including Contemporary Patination by Ronald D. Young. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Artists’ Jewellery: Pre-Raphaelite to Arts

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Recent Sightings: Handwork

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” where Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1990 Spring issue, he talks about handwork or handmade…

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Metalsmith ’90 Winter: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1990 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Kiff Slemmons, Kate Wagle, Seung Hee Kim, Deganit Schocken, and more!…

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Dirk Van Erp: Arts & Crafts Coppersmith

Due to a recent comprehensive exhibition at the San Francisco Craft & Folk Art Museum, we reintroduce to our readers the handwrought copper work of Dirk Van Erp, a leading handcraftsman in the American Arts and Crafts Movement, who opened…

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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as Sutton Hoo was found near present-day Woodbridge, in Suffolk, in 1939. Coins from the burial mound date the site no later…

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William Spratling: Creator of Modern Taxco Silver

For the past 60 years, tourists visiting Mexico have sought distinctive silver jewelry and holloware, crafted by native artisans. Although the designs they find are, for the most part, adapted from pre-Columbian clay seals and executed…

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Bruce Metcalf: Between Darkness and Light

Bruce Metcalf’s recent exhibition Between Darkness and Light thematically embraces and continues his ongoing concern with an anguished sensibility wedged between disenchantment and hope. Immediately striking is his pervasive…

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The Inventive Jewelry of Earl Pardon

Earl Pardon’s work has an elusive quality that is difficult to describe, yet this quality has motivated him throughout years of prodigious jewelry making. For four decades he has worked with an energy and curiosity that seems only to…

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Louis Mueller: Synergistic Games

The confidential exploits of self-deception is the title of one of Louis Mueller’s recent six-foot-high wall pieces. This paradoxical attitude perhaps best describes Louis Mueller’s ongoing body of work, which is at once…

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British Jewellery and German Jewellery

On British Jewellery and German Jewellery, contrary to what one might infer about this exhibition, mounted at the Crafts Council Gallery in London last summer, from the poster, the two catalogs and the separate installations, there is little…

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Fads and Fallacies: Fashion

This column is about fashion. I have been writing it for a couple of years now, still with some trepidation. Every time I pick up a new issue of the magazine, I hope to find more on the subject, some repudiation that I alone am enamored with fashion’s…

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1989 SNAG Conference Review

“What’s in it for me?” is probably the thought of each SNAG member when the information on the annual conference arrives in the mail. This year was no exception. High on my checklist was the opportunity to travel to a new city…

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Metalsmith ’89 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1989 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Gijs Bakker, Curtis LaFollette, Carrie Adell, Gry Eide, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Al Pine: Conceptual Exploration

Al Pine has been a fixture at Cal State Long Beach for over 25 years, where he teaches with Dieter Muller-Stach. Such a long tenure has hardly dampened his enthusiasm for learning and experiencing his field, as well as teaching what he calls “survival…

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Lin Stanionis: Chalices for Transubstanian

The focus of Lin Stanionis’ work for the last three years has been in exploring the implications inherent in the vessel form when it is employed for symbolic purposes. As a vehicle for this search, she has produced a series of liqueur cups,…

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Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths

Looking down the long corridors of time, the ancient Etruscans emerge as a powerful people whose economic and social development was founded on their metal industry. Over the centuries, however, the ancient Etruscan metalsmiths were gradually…

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Recent Sightings: Jewelry Teachers

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1989 Fall issue, he talks about jewelry teachers and…

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Art and Technics: Technical Mastery

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1989 Fall issue, Tim McCreight talks about technical mastery. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Metalsmith ’89 Summer: Book Reviews

This article is a book review published in the 1989 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine including “Power and Gold: Jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines” ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Power and Gold: Jewelry

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Metalsmith ’89 Summer: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1989 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features J. Fred Woell, Pat Flynn, Leonard Urso, Robln Qulgley, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Dan Feldman: Allegory of Love

Dan Feldman uses the utensil as both object and idea. Consequently, his work reveals both personal history and associations with the utensil as a useful object. An apprenticeship with Towle Silversmiths instigated Feldman’s fascination…

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A Conversation with Michael Rowe

Michael Rowe uses functional containers as a base from which to explore formal studies of space, form and balance, which are enhanced by his expressive use of patination. His holloware gains strength from the fact that he is not distracted…

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The Metal Art of Robert Ebendorf

Crushed tin foil, marred tintypes, rusted cans—some must have thought it looked like garbage. In 1967, this detritus of our collective consumption found its way onto the walls of the Art Gallery of the University of Georgia. The artist responsible…

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Projects of Exploration: Honor Something Ordinary

This is the fifth in a series of projects for students. These projects were created to provide a forum in Metalsmith for provocative and innovative work. They are assigned by a different professor each time, insuring a wide range of approaches…

Article
Carol Kumata: Pandora’s Box

“How to Wrap Five Eggs” was a dilemma posed by a cult book of Japanese packaging design in the mid-1960s. The answer…dutifully, appropriately, because they demand it. Carol Kumata’s Wrappings, her early postgraduate…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Modelling Fashion

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Fads and Fallacies”.  For this 1989 Summer, A. Stiletto talks about modelling fashion and the essential relationship between jewelry and the wearer. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

Article
The Ethics of Materials

I have always thought that if no other lesson had begun to seep through peoples’ inertia and greed, that at least a sense of the fragility of the earth and an obligation to ecologic diversity had begun to be routine. But reality intrudes,…

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Metalsmith ’89 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1989 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Brent Kington, Keith A. Lewis, Eva Eisler, Rezac Gallery, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Art and Technics: Experience

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1989 Spring issue, Tim McCreight talks about experience and how and what it…

Article
Christian Schmidt: The New Naturalism

Christian Schmidt is infamous for his contribution to the 1964 “Fiber, Clay, Metal” exhibition at the St. Paul Art Center, where he entered a so-called Medal of Honor by the fictitious Abraham Isitshit as a protest against the…

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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt’s best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in a circle. Intermingled with these simple forms are forged, applied wires that gently…

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The Value of Ideas on Metalsmith/Jeweler’s Repertoire

This essay originated as a presentation at the Society of North American Goldsmiths’ conference in Flagstaff, Arizona in 1986. It has been revised and edited for publication in Metalsmith. Metcalf’s theme concerning the value of ideas…

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The Enamelwork of Bill Helwig

When enamelist Bill Helwig celebrated the half-century mark in July of 1988, his wife Lenore Davis, asked the celebrants to festoon the trees with colorful paper strips with famous Helwig quotes. Most were culled from his workshops and provide…

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Japanese Esthetics on American Crafts

Undeniably, American crafts of the 20th century have been influenced by Japanese esthetics. From raku to mokumé, American crafts would not be what they are today without the Japanese connection. So, when I moved to Japan two years ago, I was…

Article
Learning Metalwork from Shumei Tanaka

I stood on Kawaramachi Street in downtown Kyoto. Kyoto, capital of Japan, home of the emperor from 794 to 1868, center for the three great schools of the tea ceremony, city of Noh drama, Ikenobo flower arranging and enigmatic Zen Buddhism. I…

Article
Recent Sightings: Metal Book Art

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1989 Spring issue, he talks about working with…

Article
Metalsmith ’89 Winter: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1989 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Thomas Mann, Judith Kaufman, Laurie Hall, Enid Kaplan, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Peter Macchiarini: A Modern Bohemian

An article in the February 19, 1982 issues of the San Francisco Chronicle ironically suggests that “No body of water, ocean, bay nor trickling brook has its banks in North Beach. . . an area which has come to be known as the Little Italy of…

Article
The Copperwork of Santa Clara Del Cobre

Dusty cobblestone streets traversed by oxen and donkeys pulling hay carts, anvils ringing, woodsmoke, chickens pecking next to the wooden bellows and a new Volkswagen Jetta parked in the yard of an outdoor shop — these images reflect the…

Article
Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire – looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22 years. Yet within these seemingly narrow technical confines, Mary Lee Hu continues to invent new forms. This continuing…

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Exhibition in Print: Metalsmiths Win The West

Our “notice” calling all metalsmiths guilty of western influences to turn in photographs of their work may have led some notorious and “wanted” characters to flee the limelight, but many bravely complied. This…

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John Iversen: Carved Color

Joseph Albers, a colorist par excellence, always said that in visual perception a color is almost never seen as it really is—as it physically is. Color is the most relative medium in art; it deceives continually. To apply color successfully…

Article
Recent Sightings Artlike Jewelry

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” where Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1989 Winter issue, he talks about artlike jewelry or jewelry…

Article
Metalsmith ’88 Winter: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1988 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Martha Glenny, Valerie Davidson, Brooke Baillie, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Projects of Exploration: The Art and Science of Line

This is the third in a series of projects for students, created to provide a forum in Metalsmith for provocative and innovative work. We determined that a problem-and-solution approach would be fair and open, encouraging creativity and exploration.…

Article
Mark Jordan: Hero with a Thousand Eyes

The Transparency Theory has long maintained an indomitable position at the core of any philosophy of art. Simply expressed, the theory claims that the work of art is only a means of facilitating a knowledge of mankind. It is a window through…

Article
Designing Contemporary Flatware

No single item is more used yet more neglected than flatware. It is used in one form or another by the average person many times a day, not only for eating but also for preparing and serving food. But few people, even those concerned with designing…

Article
The Representation in Contemporary Metals

My recollection of the first piece of metalwork I owned is of a pin consisting of two poodles connected by a silver chain. This, the use of representation at its most banal, probably floats somewhere in all our early memories of jewelry. As I grew…

Article
The Prospective General Teacher of Art

The teacher of vocational courses in art should be thoroughly trained in his craft and, if possible, should be a practicing artist. One might hope, of course, that he might also be a person of well-rounded education. To hold this image of the…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Post Modern Collection

One of the heralded events in this year’s ebb and flow of jewelry fashion was the arrival of the Cleto Munari Post Modern Collection: 160 pieces, designed by “name” Post Modern architects, produced at a cost estimated at…

Article
Art and Technics: Color

Unless you’ve been living in a cave for the past five years, you are aware of the current interest in color among metalsmiths and jewelers. From the lichen-green of a copper patina blue to the hot red of anodized aluminum, color is in. Of…

Article
Metalsmith ’88 Summer: Book Reviews

This article is for book reviews for the books “Jewelry by Architects”, “The Jewellery of René Lalique”, “Jewelry 7000 Years” and the three-set Titanium books, published in the 1988 Spring issue…

Article
The Art of Conversation

Many people I know romanticize an afternoon in a cage in a cultural mecca – maybe Paris or Rome – spent endlessly conversing with notable literary or artistic personalities. On the other hand, I rarely hear nowadays of someone…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Pocket Knives

The term fashion does not immediately bring to mind knives. But wait! The 1895 Montgomery Ward & Co. catalog offered 131 varieties of pocket knives. They were classified as: “men’s,” “ladies’,”…

Article
Monumentality On Scale and Sculpture

As a moviegoer in the 1950s and 60s. I watched intently as insects and crustaceans were transformed into gargantuan monsters by manaical scientists bent on the destruction of our planet. As giant spiders and flies toppled telephone poles…

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Metalsmith ’88 Summer: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1988 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Eleanor Moty, Pat Flynn, H. Charles Schwarz, J. Fred Woell, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

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Dyslexia: Tool or Trial

I have long suspected that I have a great deal of “dyslexic” company in the arts. As more and more networks, such as the Foundation for Children with Learning Disabilities emerge, which focus on an increased awareness of learning…

Article
Ed Wiener: Arts and Ends

Ed Wiener exemplifies the studio jewelry artist of the late 1940s and 50s. The first time we met, this fascinating 70-year-old man reminisced at length about the New York art/craft scene of 40 years ago. With a wry wit and an acute intellect,…

Article
Conversations on Technology

Conversations on Technology happened during a couple of cold winter evenings, Stanley Lechtzin and Michael Dunas examined ideas raised at the November symposium “Innovations/Applications: Technological Pioneers in Metalsmithing,”…

Article
Arline Fisch: The Art of Wearable Magic

The most intriguing characteristic of Arline Fisch’s work, particularly the textile constructions, is their utter transformation when worn. What may appear as simple, even simplistic, knitted or woven metal undergoes a transubstantiation…

Article
Art and Technics: Act of Technique

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design. For this 1988 Summerissue, Tim McCreight talks about the act of technique rather than the learning…

Article
Metalsmith ’88 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1988 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Bob Natallini and Rachelle Thiewes, Lynda LaRoche, the Philbrook Museum…

Article
Kenneth Bates: Dean of American Enameling

When I asked him who Kenneth Bates is, he laughed and replied “a simple dirt farmer from New England.” However, underneath his country boy smile, he’s a driving creative force. As a child, he had his own special spots in the…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Surrealism in Jewelry

While Surrealism has had a major impact on how we look at 20th-century art, the same cannot be said for its impact on 20th-century dress. The costumes reflected in the paintings and photographs of the 30s and 40s appear to be merely capricious…

Article
Artists Who Write

Not until the last century did the malicious and false concept arise that artists—painters, sculptors, printmakers—were anti-intellectuals. During the Renaissance Age artists who write poetry, composed treatises on esthetic problems…

Article
Funk Art Jewelry

In Objects: USA, the chapter on jewelry bears witness to the hallowed names of modern history. The collective effort of such luminaries as Eikerman, Craver, Fike, Roach, Radakovich, Winston, Renk established a canon for work of the 40s, 50s…

Article
Metalsmith ’88 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1988 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Antonia von Braun and Ulrika Johansen, Lynda Watson-Abbott, Jamie Abbott,…

Article
1988 SNAG 20th Anniversary Conference

What is the purpose of a SNAG conference? Why do people come? What are their expectations? Why do some cease to come? Were their expectations not met? Each conference chairman imprints his/her vision onto the conference. He sets the tone, whether…

Article
The Art of the Celtic Metalsmith

This research paper was presented at the Society of North American Goldsmiths Conference at Cranbrook Academy of Art in June, 1987. All photographs and illustrations are by the author, unless otherwise noted. “The island is well people,…

Article
Flat Topped Solitaire Setting

The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard solitaire mounting. I prefer this ring design as it makes the smaller stone app ear slightly larger in its overall appearance.…

Article
Creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant

Steve Satow describes the procedure on creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant. Creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant Beginning components are two 14kw pendants, a lobster claw, a 6mm jump ring, a 16 inch strand of 6mm pearls…

Article
Translating Line Art into 3D Models in Matrix

Line art, such as logos, family crests, text or numbers, cartoon characters, and even sketches can be quickly and easily translated into 3D models in Matrix for use in a variety of jewelry designs. Depending on the skill of the user, the end use…

Article
Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant

I received this opal from a woman who had cut it years ago. Her customer was aware it had a small chip on the corner and she was leery of setting it. I wasn’t sure if it had been kept hydrated or if it was more brittle that usual. She…

Article
Projects of Exploration: Visual Intricacy

This is the fourth in a series of projects for students, created to provide a forum in Metalsmith for provocative and innovative work. The projects will be assigned by a different professor each time. In this way, we hope to spotlight issues…

Article
The Founding Masters Exhibit

The following is an excerpt from the text of the catalog of “The Founding Masters Exhibit”, held at the Schick Art Gallery of Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs, NY, guest curated by Kurt Matzdorf under the directorship of Professor…

Article
John Prip/Jack Prip: Arrangements of Changeable Form

This past year, we were treated to a major retrospective of the work of John Prip in an exhibition that originated at the Rhode Island School of Design Museum in Providence, RI and traveled to the American Craft Museum in New York. Gilley’s…

Article
Art and Technics: Learning from History

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design. For this 1987 Spring issue, Tim McCreight talks about learning from history and using it to…

Article
Metalsmith ’87 Winter: International Exhibitions

This article showcases various international exhibitions and competitions in the form of collected exhibition reports published in the 1987 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Die Kugel-Glas & Metall

Article
Metalsmith ’87 Winter: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1987 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features the Alberta College of Art, Quadrum Gallery, Moshe Zabari, and more! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

Article
The Bauhaus Metal Workshop, 1919-1927

In this article Deborah Norton traces the rise and fall of this seminal 20th-century school. Although Bauhaus policy revolved around personalities and philosophies, it nonetheless embarked on an influential experiment of incorporating…

Article
Naum Slutzky Jewelry at the Bauhaus

From 1919-23 the Bauhaus also had a jewelry workshop run as a private enterprise by Naum Slutzky. He was on the of the only teachers at the Bauhaus at this time that was both an artist and a technician. Born in Kiev in 1894, he had learned goldsmithing…

Article
Galleries: Galerie RA

In October 1986, Amsterdam’s Galeria RA will mark its tenth anniversary in the forefront of Europe’s experimental jewelry movement. To celebrate the occasion, found-director Paul Derrez has invited the 80 or so artists who…

Article
Cybernetic Jewelry: A Systems Approach

We live in an age of rapid technological progress where the unthinkable becomes possible and the impossible becomes routine. Even so, the fields of metalsmithing and jewelry making have been slow to incorporate advanced technologies. I…

Article
The Life and Times of J. Fred Woell

Fred Woell’s spirit was born in and of the sixties. His molten slogans register, graffitt-ilike, upon the collective “wall” of his pins and reliefs. One reads these signs as transcribed symbols of our debased culture.…

Article
William Underhill: Organic Geometry

William Underhill came to bronze pots just as his teacher at the University of California at Berkeley Peter Voulkos was leaving clay ones. After a decade of stacking, slashing and cantilevering pots—attempting to stretch their skins into…

Article
In Memory of Olaf Skoogfors, 1930-1975

Olaf Skooglors died at the age of 45 on December 20, 1975. In memory of Olaf Skoogfors these excerpts were taken from the 1979 retrospective exhibit, held at the Philadelphia College of Art and the Renwick Gallery and curated by Helen Williams…

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Conversation with Stanley Lechtzin on Olaf Skoogfors

This is an excerpt from an interview with Stanley Lechtzin about the life of Olaf Skoogfors. Olaf Skoogfors and Stanley Lechtzin were good friends during Olaf’s teaching years. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Q. Can you elaborate on Olaf’s…

Article
A Dedication to Olaf Skoogfors

Born in Bredsjo, Sweden, June 27, 1930, Olaf Skoogfors initially came to the United States when he was four years old; his family permanently settled in Philadelphia before the Second World War. I knew Olaf all of his adult life. He came to the…

Article
The Jewelry of Gijs Bakker

Since the late 60s, Gijs Bakker (b. 1942) has been influential to both Dutch and international jewelry design. His work, often humorous and ironic, rarely decorative, poses the seminal questions: Why do people wear jewelry? What does jewelry…

Article
Recent Signtings: Pluralism in Metals

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1987 Spring issue, he talks about pluralism in metals…

Article
The Cliche of Modern Art Appreciation

As art critic Lucy Lippard has observed: “The ‘ugly’ turning ‘beautiful’ in the public eye through a process of familiarity is a cliché of modern art appreciation which boils down to the unexpected (and therefore the temporarily…

Article
Recent Sightings: Defining Jewelry

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1987 Summer issue, he talks about  defining jewelry,…

Article
Metalsmith ’87 Summer: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1987 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features the American Craft Museum, Yurakucho Seibu Art Forum, Plum Gallery,…

Article
Leslie Leupp: Exploring the Possibilities

A year before the first appearance of the Memphis collection at the Milan Furniture Fair in 1981, Leslie Leupp was collecting materials from hardware stores and welding shops for a series of bracelets. Of this period he says, “I wanted…

Article
The Metalwork and Jewelry of Harry Bertoia

Harry Bertoia was not simply a metalsmith or a furniture designer, sculptor or printmaker, artist or craftsman. He was all of these. Apparently unconcerned with the barriers that had been assumed for years between art and craft, esthetics…

Article
The Intimate Abstractions of Rachelle Thiewes

The third week of October was, ostensibly, a week like any other. But in the art world, it was a wild week of almost deafening hype. There was coverage of the tedious back-patting that surrounded the opening of the new American Craft Museum. Concurrently,…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: First Impressions

As trite as it might sound, we still form our opinions about people as a result of “first impressions.” In fact, our fast-paced culture demands that personal images be codified within the limits of an ever-decreasing attention…

Article
Art and Technics: Brooch Pin

Often the paramount achievement of technical mastery is the ability to “remain invisible.” The virtuoso violinist is heralded less for his pyrotechnic fingering than his subtle grace in purifying each note within a seamless composition.…

Article
Metalsmith ’87 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1987 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features Charles Lewton-Brain, ASF Gallery, Wichita Art Association, Jewelry…

Article
Galleries: Concepts Gallery

“American jewelry has come into its own,” says Concepts Gallery owner Doug Steakley. “lt has really matured. . . My thesis is that a whole new professional has emerged in this country.” Concepts Gallery Carmel and…

Article
Projects of Exploration: Performance and Beyond

This is the second in a series of projects for students, created to provide a forum in Metalsmith for provocative and innovative work. We determined that a problem-and-solution approach would be fair and open, encouraging creativity and…

Article
Origins, Evolution and the Practice of Enameling

More than 3000 years ago, someone spread powdered glass onto metal, probably gold, and subjected it to sufficient heat to cause it to soften, wet the surface, spread and adhere. We will never know exactly where or when it happened or exactly…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Art is Life

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Fads and Fallacies”.  For this 1987 Spring issue, A. Stiletto how Art is Life. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In “The Colony of Money” the figure of Fast Eddie Felson…

Article
Van LeBus: Folk Artist

Naive, primitive, anonymous, magical are characteristics that often accompany our image of the folk artist. In reality, he is an artisan who seeks to understand, preserve and reflect the beliefs, traditions and customs of the common people,…

Article
Recent Sightings: Designer-Craftsman

This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1987 Spring issue, he talks about the label…

Article
Art and Technics: Finishing

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1987 Spring issue, Tim McCreight talks about finishing up with your work.…

Article
Judging Juried Exhibition

The cry of the rejected: “Why?” is the loudest single continuing lament heard after every juried show. Even when juror’s biases are known and catered to somewhat, the final selections are often a mystery, un clarified by juror’s…

Article
Metalwork in Japan

My study of metalwork in Japan began with the words, “First you will make a ring.” The teacher ceremoniously handed me a sheet of silver, a saw and a few files. I waited for an explanation but none was forthcoming. How was I to proceed?…

Article
Creative Imagination – Undeveloped Resource

In 1959, Victor Papanek gave the third-year students in his creative engineering seminar at Ontario College of Art this problem: “Reexamine keyboard controls on a typewriter in relation to the human hand and fatigue factors. Design…

Article
Metalsmith ’87 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1987 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features William Harper, Lisa Grainick, Anne Krohn Graham, Richard Helzer, Jaclyn…

Article
Damascus and Pattern Welding

True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or near the temperature of fusion for an extended period of time. This causes the formation of large, high carbon dendrites in a matrix…

Article
Kai Chan: Lines of Communication

Coming to terms with the work of Kai Chan is not so much a matter of definition as of communication. As Chan explains, “When I work on my pieces, I put things, anything—materials thoughts, accidents—together to become an object that…

Article
The Work of Gary Noffke

Preparation for writing this piece began, I guess, when I was six or seven years old. At that age, my whole world was confined to a small yet comfortable apartment in Brooklyn decorated in the material evidence of my parents’ modest means.…

Article
The Form Beyond Function Exhibition

“Form Beyond Function” was organized by Kington and David Prince of the Mitchell Museum, Mt. Vernon, Illinois, in conjunction with the Society of North American Goldsmiths. The exhibition, comprising 52 works by 40 artists,…

Article
A Feminist Perspective

A taboo was broken when the word ”feminist” was used in the review of “Form Beyond Function” in Metalsmith (Spring 1987). In the context of craft, the word “feminist” has been avoided more than any other “f”…

Article
Art Smith: Goldsmith and Silversmith

In a promotional flyer from the early 1950s. Art Smith offered a “fanciful ring of space, silver and gold.” The main ingredients in his work, from about 1946 until his death in 1982 at the age of 65, were sheet, wire and “space…

Article
Florence Resnikoff: New Esthetic Potential

Florence Resnikoff delights in the use of color. Vibrant and glowing, muted and moody, color for her involves extending beyond  traditional metal and stone in washes of purple, rose, peacock blue gray—the expanded palette she achieves…

Article
Art and Technics: Broaching Subjects

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design.  For this 1987 Fall issue, Tim McCreight talks about broaching subjects. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Melancholic Designs

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Fads and Fallacies”.  For this 1987 Fall, A. Stiletto talks melancholic designs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In a recent interview, reported in The New…

Article
Fads and Fallacies: Fashion Fads

This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Fads and Fallacies”.  For this 1987 Winter, A. Stiletto talks about fashion fads. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Annually for many, not so frequently for most,…

Article
Metalsmith ’86 Winter: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1986 Winter issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features the Arline Fisch, Carolyn Morris Bach, Herman Hermsen, Marie Zimmerman,…

Article
Master Metalsmith Ruth Penington

At the age of three, Ruth Penington created an apron for her doll, undaunted by the complexities of a pocket, hem, belt, lace edging and insertion of a blue ribbon. Today, seventy-five years later, an artist, designer/craftsman and teacher,…

Article
Emmy Van Leersum: Lines and Patterns

Dutch jewelry designer Emmy van Leersum, who died November 2, 1984, had been internationally recognized for over 20 years. Her work was most recently seen in New York at the “Jewelry International: Contemporary Trends” exhibition,…

Article
Metalsmith ’86 Spring: Book Reviews

This article showcases book reviews for “The Art of the Jeweler”, “Bead Setting Diamonds, with Pavé Applications”, “Custom Knifemaking: 10 Proiects From a Master Craftsman” and “Pearls:…

Article
Metalsmith ’86 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1986 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features the Betty Helen Longhi, Wichita Art Association. the Quadrum Gallery,…

Article
The Future of American Crafts

American crafts are under-going self-examination. Expressed in countless ways, varying from anxiety to optimism, the observation that the field is changing is heard frequently now. Although no ready answers are available, artists, gallery…

Article
Master Metalsmith Robert Montgomery

Robert Montgomery surrounds himself in a silent optimism that does not simply ignore adversity, but rises above it. His generous spirit has turned blight to bounty and earned him untold respect and admiration. He is an accomplished artist,…

Article
Metalsmith ’86 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1986 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. This features the International Jewelry Symposium,  Peter Shire, William Baran-Mickle…

Article
Creative Thinking in the Arts

An Assessment of a Lecture Series and Panel Discussion at the Program in Artisanry of the Swain School of Design. Creativity is almost universally regarded as a good thing to have. From corporate business to cooking on a campstove, creativity…

Article
Fred Fenster: Function and Ceremony in Pewter and Silver

Fred Fenster is a compact man whose quiet friendliness and diffidence belies the intensity that lies just beneath the surface of his personality. The face is friendly in a strong sort of way and there is genuine force in the hands. This is a man…

Article
Laurie Hall: A Primitive Contemporary

It takes a powerful psyche to cope with and build on the kind of support and inspiration that has surrounded Laurie Hall all of her life. The inspiration coming from all sides has been nurtured in the fertile soil of her imagination in an artistic…

Article
Peruvian Jewelry Art and Metalwork

Peru, Land of the Inca, the Sun Worshippers, Land of Gold (the “Sweat of the Sun”), Land of Silver (the “Tears of the Moon”), a land where precious metals were in abundance, used not only for ritual but for everyday…

Article
The Silversmith Mandate: Looking at the Future

The following are excerpts from a panel discussion chaired by Lois Etherington Betteridge at the Society of North American Goldsmiths’ conference in Toronto, June 1985. The panelists included: Gary Griffin, Head of Metalsmithing, Cranbrook…

Article
Objects in Space: Future Arena for Silversmiths

An object in space is exactly what the name implies, namely one which by design has left the company of its table or wall bound predecessors, like coffee pots and sconces, and assumed the role of an object without a function. It has taken up the…

Article
A Metalsmith’s Guide to Rome

Rome. Truly the eternal city, where every monument reflects simultaneously the past and the present. As Goethe so aptly states in his Italian Journey, “The very site of the city takes one back to the time of its foundation.” As…

Article
Fusion Patterns

This paper describes a process that combines techniques researched by others with a few well known facts about the properties of certain metals. This information was applied to a metal fabrication process specifically designed to extend…

Article
The School for American Craftsmen (SAC)

The history of the School for American Craftsmen (SAC) can be seen as a microcosm of the history of the post World War II craft movement. Because of this a study of the former can help illuminate the latter. This is especially true of SAC’s…

Article
David Paul Bacharach – Weaving in Metal

David Paul Bacharach is a part of the growing contingent of American metalsmiths who are challenging the Modernist tradition of vesselmaking (see “American Holloware, Changing Criteria” by Jamie Bennett, Metalsmith, Summer…

Article
Metalsmith ’85 Summer: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1985 Summer issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Image as Metaphor Beaver College, Glenside, PA March…

Article
Fridl Blumenthal: Grand Dame of Metalwork

Having turned 80 with the spring this year, Fridl Blumenthal qualifies as a grand old lady of metalwork. Like grande dames from time immemorial, she has a powerful predilection for gold. For her, however, gold is not something with which to…

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The Search for Modernist Style Jewelry

It was about seven years ago, I was living in Paris, spending a typical Sunday afternoon scouring the flea markets of Clingancourt for “hidden treasures.” I had moved to Paris to paint, although at the time I found myself buying…

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American Modernist Jewelry 1940-1960

Recently, collectors have discovered a body of silver jewelry, eclectic in scope—by turns serious and whimsical—creative, original and quintessentially modern. It has been termed “50s jewelry,” as if it embodied—in…

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Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith

Hydraulic die forming is a process which hasn’t received a lot of press. Perhaps its usefulness seems limited to mass production, and it sounds as if you need to divert rivers to do it. This article is intended to clear up a few misconceptions…

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5 German Jewelers Marketing Strategies

Five German jewelers who chose not to follow the traditional vocational training of “master goldsmith,” but rather opted to study as artists in an academic context, having completed their education, are now confronted with…

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The Jewelry, Art and Artifact of Ramona Solberg

In the three years since her retirement from 31 years of teaching, Ramona Solberg has had three exhibitions of her jewelry, participated in several invitational shows, given jewelry workshops, moved her household and studio and taken seven…

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The Helen Williams Drutt Collection of Modern Jewelry

The Helen Williams Drutt Collection offers a personal view of the development in fine art jewelry over the past 20 years. A refined eye that understands new developments and experimentation chose works of jewelry for their intelligence,…

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Metalsmith ’85 Spring: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1985 Spring issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Peter Chamberlain: Exhibition of Unmetal Hartmann Center…

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The Concept of Preciousness

The very word PRECIOUS, the concept of PRECIOUSNESS is anathema to most contemporary artists, especially painters and sculptors, and perhaps rightfully so, given the stance of contemporary aesthetics. Yet it continues to intrigue the…

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History of Contemporary Canadian Jewellery

The history of contemporary Canadian jewellery, like that of Canada itself, has struggled with the assimilation of foreign influences, economies and cultures as well as the insecurities of the Canadian temperament in its search for a national…

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Master Metalsmith Harold Stacey

Growing up in the house of a silversmith is an unusual experience, the more so if the place where one spends one childhood is a typical North American suburb, vintage early 50s, where one’s friends’ fathers drive to normal nine-to-five…

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A Metalsmith’s Guide to Toronto

In the Ojibway language, Toronto means “meeting place.” At this site on the northern shore of Lake Ontario 18th-century French and English traders met native Indians to barter for fur pelts. Today Toronto is a city of over two…

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Vada Clark Beetler, 1929-1984

Vada Clark Beetler, designer craftsman in metal, passed away December 7, 1984. A native of Columbus, Ohio, Vada Beetler received her BFA at Ohio State University, did studio work in Denmark, studied metallurgy and electroplating at Battelle…

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Metalsmith ’85 Fall: Exhibition Reviews

This article showcases the various exhibitions in the form of collected exhibition reviews published in the 1985 Fall issue of the Metalsmith Magazine. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Masterworks of Contemporary American Jewelry: Sources

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The Art of Doublée Making

Historically, a wide range of techniques has been used to clad or coat silver or base metals with gold. These processes are based on efforts to balance three factors: cost, physical properties and appearance. Rolled gold or gold-filled stock…

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The Jewelry of Vincent Ferrini

On the second floor of a historic wooden building in an elegant shopping area of affluent Concord, Massachusetts, is found the studio/gallery of Goldsmiths 3. This environment reflects the mature stage in the logical progression that has…

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Susan Hamlet: Culture Of Materials

“Culture of materials,” an expression originating from the early 20th-century teaching of Russian Constructivist Vladimir Tatlin, defines the artist’s deliberate examination and selection of materials for use…

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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

I first discovered Allan Adler’s Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my metalsmithing teaching career at California State University, Long Beach. His shop was located on Sunset Boulevard…

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Galleries: Quadrum Gallery

This is the third of a series on galleries that specialize in jewelry and metalwork. The Quadrum Gallery is owned and operated by Cynthia Kagan. See below for related articles. Situated among exclusive clothing stores and interior design…

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Galleries: The Yaw Gallery

This is a continuing series on galleries that specialize in jewelry and metalwork. The Yaw Gallery is owned and operated by Nancy Yaw. See below for related articles. The town of Birmingham, Michigan is an affluent suburb of Detroit. Aside…

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Galleries: The Vo Galerie

This is the first in a series on galleries that specialize in jewelry and metalwork. The Vo Galerie is a European Jewelry Showcase in the American Capitol. See below for related articles. The new wave of European jewelry that has been lapping…

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Gary Griffith’s Jewelry and Constructions

When Gary Griffith wrote this poetic meditation (see below) on the status of his work for an exhibition at the Helen Drutt Gallery in Philadelphia in 1981, he was at a turning point in his development. His hesitancy to designate his work as sculpture…

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The Civil War Chess Set

Richly detailed portrait sculptures of great American heroes—in solid pewter, solid brass and fine enamels. An heirloom chess set to be enjoyed for generations. Created by the world-famous craftsmen of The Franklin Mint. THE NATIONAL…

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The Goldsmiths: Studio & Shop

Reviving the virtually dead enameling technique plique-à-jour, which means “the light of day as seen through a membrane,” has been a challenge to Jean Sampel and Susan Noland since the late 1960s. Their interest in this technique,…

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Austrian Jewelers Exhibition

All five artists in this 5 Austrian Jewelers show were trained at the Hochschüle für angewandte Kunst in Vienna. While their work goes in slightly different directions, they all consider themselves “jewelry artists” and…

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Charles Lewton-Brain Exhibition

A goldsmith, not only a jeweler, Charles Lewton-Brain exhibits the competence and traditional skills accumulated through studies at the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design and his experience working with goldsmiths Karl Angermeir and…

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Joan Michlin: Current Metalsmithing

Celebrating its move to a new location, Creative Metalsmiths featured the slick art jewelry of Joan Michlin. Her futuristic style was toned down with materials that have transcended time—all gold jewelry, most with a small diamond or two.…

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German Jewelry: Freedom Through Precision

Mention German craftsmanship, and we think of diligent Black Forest elves making precision cameras and automobiles. Ordinarily, “precision” connotes accuracy, quality and attention to detail. Precision need not constrict…

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M. Avigail Upin: Current Work Exhibition

M. Avigail Upin’s carefully constructed work displays a cool and impeccable cleanness of style, with silver the dominant material. Her earlier work—jewelry and containers—characterized by literalness and elegant miniaturization…

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The Goldsmith & The Grape Exhibition

I thought this was a dazzling exhibition, even before I had a glass of wine. It was definitely a step back into history. Two of the great London Livery Companies, the goldsmiths and the vintners, joined to produce a comprehensive exhibition…

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A Faberge Inspired Mechanical Jewelry Egg

Early in 1984 Jack called to see if I’d be interested in creating an anniversary gift to celebrate twenty-five years of marriage with Ryoko. The question was posed “What can be created that Parallels the unique and creative skills…

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Jewelry Design: New York State Artists Exhibition

For the “Jewelry Design” show at the Johnson Museum of Art, Louise Porter, Coordinator of Crafts, selected both jewelry and sculpture by New York State artists. She was especially drawn to artists oriented toward jewelry design…

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Janice Kluge: Metalwork and Sculpture

Janice Kluge’s exhibition of metalwork and sculpture at the Birmingham Museum of Art was small in scale but rich in variety and execution. The 11 pieces and drawings, from 1981-83, illustrated her ongoing involvement with natural…

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Carrie Adell: Energies of Transformation

Carrie Adell is perhaps best known for her jewelry which transforms common, familiar, organic and geometric objects and forms into interesting and wearable jewelry. Her work ranges from simple to flamboyant, classic to outrageous. This…

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Christine Clark and Dennis Leudeman Exhibition

This exhibition of two sculptors at the Merritt Gallery constituted the first major showing of work by either artist. An almost overflowing display of 25 floor and pedestal pieces ranged in height from 6 inches to 10 feet. There was more than…

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Deborah Aguado: Use of Image and Enigma in Jewelry

Stone, metal and space compose the careful balance in Deborah Aguado’s work. Her first geometric formalisms constructed in metal were developed in 1973 when she participated in a goldsmithing seminar at the Akademie für Bildende…

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The Washington Guild of Goldsmiths

It all began in 1978. Gretchen Klunder-Raber issued an open invitation to all persons interested in metalsmithing in the Washington, D.C. metropolitan area to meet to discuss the possible formation of a guild. Raber was keenly aware of the…

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The Artemis Medallion

In northern Greece, sometime after the death of Alexander the Great, a master goldsmith fashioned this unusual medallion with its bust of Artemis, goddess of the hunt. The medallion projects Artemis in high relief encircled by a rich frame…

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Hans Appenzeller’s Elegant Designs

In April of 1983, a simple and relatively unpretentious store joined the ranks of the illustrious “boutiques” and other high-priced establishments lining the sidewalks of Madison Avenue on New York’s fashionable upper…

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Gallery Directors’ Role on Metalsmithing

In the world of fine art, galleries wield enormous power. Galleries such as Castelli, Knoedler and Marlborough, through the artists they choose to show, dictate which artists and styles are “in” or “out,” which…

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Master Metalsmith Irena Brynner

The following text is edited from two interviews taped in 1982 with Irena Brynner, one by Dorothy Van Arsdale in Florida and one with Julie Schneider, a graduate student from Tyler, in New York City. I was born in Russia and lived there until I…

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Betty Helen Longhi Exhibition

It is refreshing to see a designer of Betty Helen Longhi’s ability break away from the museum mentality and move into the marketplace with affordable production jewelry. She was really three people at the Plum Gallery exhibit, each…

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Virtuoso Symposium Exhibition

It is possible to practice medicine and do it very successfully and happily without much familiarity with or interest in the history of that profession. It may also be possible to practice metalsmithing with the same attitude of detachment,…

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Metalwork: A National Invitational Exhibition

This show provided an overview of some of the new directions and esthetic concerns of metalsmiths in the 1980s. Curated by Janice Kluge, it included approximately 50 small metal sculptures and pieces of jewelry by 18 artists from throughout…

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The Arts and Crafts Movement

“It is allowing machines to be our masters and not our servants that so insures the beauty of life nowadays.” Ironically, this quote does not come from a contemporary philosopher decrying the computer age, but rather, from William…

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Robert Ebendorf and Ivy Ross Exhibition

While this was not the first time that Ivy Ross and Robert Ebendorf have exhibited together, this exhibition showed clearly their diverse approaches: Ross’s jewelry relating to clothing and Ebendorf’s relating to wall collages.…

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Komelia Hongja Okim Exhibition

Translated into English, Korea means “chosen.” Komelia Hongja Okim, a native of Korea, has faced a great many consequential choices both in her personal and professional lives. Of these, one of the most important has been her…

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All That Glitters Exhibition

“All That Glitters,” the first national competitive exhibition of fine art glass and jewelry in Arizona, featured the work of 17 jewelers from all parts of the United States. The jurors were David Pimentel, Associate Professor…

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Curtis LaFollette Exhibition

From the very cover of the announcement brochure, one sensed the struggles and conflicts represented in the work in this often-puzzling show. Even though I consider Curtis LaFollette a good friend, I do not completely subscribe to the more…

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Wendy Ramshaw Retrospective Exhibition

This exhibit, which originated at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 1982, will be traveling for two years throughout the United States. The pieces included in this collection, mostly metal and ceramic jewelry, span about 13 years…

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The San Francisco Metal Arts Guild

When I returned from Europe in 1951, my friend Margaret de Patta called and invited me to join a group of metal artists who were structuring an organization dedicated to the needs of producing craftsmen. This group held monthly meetings which…

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Robert Lee Morris: The Business of Marketing Art Jewelry

Jewelry was never on his mind—at least not while he was studying art and anthropology in college. It was filmmaking which claimed his most serious career intentions and to which Robert Lee Morris committed himself, until he realized just…

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Master Metalsmith Robert von Neumann

This article was completed just weeks before Robert von Neumann’s accidental fall and subsequent death on April 23, 1984. Books and artifacts – from Eskimo masks to Picasso prints, from anthropology to art history – as…

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The Metal Arts Guild of Ontario

In 1946 a small band of metal enthusiasts in Toronto, Canada, formed the Metal Arts Guild (MAG) “to promote and encourage the cultural and commercial development of metal arts and crafts both non-ferrous and ferrous.” The articles…

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Jewellery in Transition

In early 1983 a call for entry was sent out across Canada for submissions to a multimedia, nonprecious jewellery exhibition “Jewellery in Transition” inspired by the spirit of the British “Jewellery Redefined”…

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Belgian Contemporary Jewelry Designers

The brain child of a private art-craft dealer, Denise Renard-Honhon, this exhibition presented 22 of Belgium’s contemporary jewelry designers. The idea was to introduce Americans to a representative selection of Belgium’s…

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Gayle Saunders Exhibition

Of the various schools of thought about design, “less is more” has been one of the most enduring of the 20th century. Its beginnings were in the reaction against the almost stupifying ostentation used to proclaim society’s…

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Samuel Yellin, Metalworker

At a time marked by an international revival of the blacksmith’s art, the Samuel Yellin exhibition at the Federal Reserve Bank provided a welcome opportunity to view the work of one of this century’s master metalworkers. Samuel

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Stuart Devlin Retrospective Exhibition

Stuart Devlin’s exhibition offered the viewer a feast, a visit to an Aladdin’s cave. The exhibition celebrated 25 years of achievement by an outstandingly innovative, creative and prolific designer. The abundance and range…

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The Work of John Marshall

The success of John Marshall’s art, as a practicing metalsmith, was evident in this impressive exhibition. Held in conjunction with the 1983 Society of North American Goldsmiths Conference at Asilomar, Marshall’s show was…

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Jonathan Bonner: Whimsy and Vision

Jonathan Bonner is a pleasant young man with a quick smile and an easygoing manner. If you saw him in the grocery store you might think he was a teacher or a doctor. If you walked by his house in an older, well-kept section of Providence, you probably…

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Rendering Design and Process

This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal objects. Here we show the stages of rendering from pencil roughs to finished pencil renderings with color to full-color renderings, and discuss…

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Production Jewelers: Design, Marketing and Business

This is the fourth in a series of articles from Metalsmith about production jewelers: design, marketing and business. ************************* Business Name: Diana Vincent Co., Bucks County, Pennsylvania Designers: Diana Chrambanis…

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Production Jewelers: Marketing Production

This is the third in a series of articles from Metalsmith about production jewelers. This installment concentrates on marketing production work. ************************* Because production line jewelry provides a feasible means of…

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Production Jewelers: Design & Industrial Techniques

This is the second in a series of articles about production jewelers. This installment concentrates on design versus saleability, the incorporation of industrial techniques in a line of jewelry and preparation for running a small business.…

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Production Jewelers: How They Survive

From time to time, Metalsmith will locus a series of articles on a particular aspect of jewelers. Beginning in this issue we take a look at production jewelers: breaking into the field, creating and marketing a line and running the business.…

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Master Metalsmith Svetozar Radakovich

This appreciation by Robert McDonald, former chief curator of the La Jolla Museum of Contemporary Art in California, was written in 1980 to introduce Toza (Svetozar Radakovich) to the museum’s patrons, who had never before seen an…

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The Ardagh Chalice

Ardagh now is scarcely more than a place-name; it is in County Limerick in Ireland. In 1868, while a peasant was digging potatoes he found at a depth of three feet some bronze objects and a silver chalice. These objects were taken to the convent…

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1984 SNAG Conference Review

On the second day of the 1984 Society of North American Goldsmith’s conference held in June in New York City, the pragmatic theme of “Art and Industry” was briefly abandoned and esthetic concerns came to the forefront.…

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Ambiguous Visions of Louise Norrell

It’s hard to think of a comparison. While I can haphazardly categorize today’s non jewelry metalsmithing as either traditional holloware or sculpture, Louise Norrell’s work doesn’t really fit in either one.…

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A Conversation with Bjorn Weckstrom

Björn Weckström, a Finnish designer who has enjoyed a virtually unparalleled opportunity in his native country, was the keynote speaker at the recent Society of North American Goldsmith’s conference held in New York City. In an…

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1984 Jewelry International Exhibition

With the exception of “New Departures in Jewellery,” held at the American Craft Museum last summer as part of the “Britain Salutes New York” festival, it has been well over 10 years since the ACM offered a full-scale…

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A Conversation with Angela Cummings

In October of 1983 Angela Cummings announced that she would end a 16-year association with Tiffany & Company in order to seek other opportunities, either as an independent jewelry designer or working under the auspices of another upscale…

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1983 SNAG Platinum Jewelry Design Competition

This year Johnson Matthey Inc., the world’s largest manufacturer of platinum group metals, in cooperation with the Society of North American Goldsmiths inaugurated the annual “SNAG Platinum Jewelry Design Competition”…

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Master Metalsmith John Paul Miller

A provocative dilemma evolves when one attempts to use the written word to describe things which are in essence ineffable. This challenge presents itself when trying to describe the artist/teacher John Paul Miller. He rarely makes direct…

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1982 Sculptural Jewelry Exhibition

Sculptural Jewelry ‘82 Contemporary Artisans Gallery, San Francisco October 27-November 20, 1982 Under the theme “Sculptural Jewelry ’82” Contemporary Artisans showed the diverse work of eight nationally known…

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Master Metalsmith Dorothy Sturm

Entering the enameling studio, one is struck by its openness. Light fills the space. Shelves are lined with organic vessel forms and dense architectural silhouettes. Glass and pools of color illuminate the density of these shapes, creating…

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Claus Bury Architectonic Propositions

Claus Bury’s rejection of his immediate past, a long standing European tradition in goldsmithing, and his defection to the fine arts by the end of the 70’s, points out a major weakness in the crafts: its inability to accommodate…

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Basic Approach to Product Design

Design is a perennial issue for all who produce objects meant for a specific use, utilitarian, in contrast to objects which have an exclusively expressive function. In America the postwar period dating from the 40’s was characterized…

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Wire Wrapping Enamel Pieces

Everyone has long seen gems wrapped in small wire cages with hanging devices, and more recently, the Dichroic glass pendants with their caressing wire sculpture made into a bail for hanging on a chain or neck ring. They do provide a light weight…

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An Interview with Leila Tai

In this article, renowned enamelist Leila Tai discusses her many motivations and inspirations as well as her creative process in making her award-winning works. When and how did you become involved in enameling? I took classes at the Kulicke-Stark…

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The Jewelry of Patsy Croft

“Bright colors we can find only in nature, quality craftsmanship that will outlast the seasons, and a promise to do my part with the gifts I’ve been given” – Patsy Croft, Alohi Lani Designs, Orange Beach, Alabama.…

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The Enamelware of Sean Alton

My affair with precious metals began while working with my father a talented jeweler who worked with spring movement. He once made a life-sized rose in gold that would bloom. It weighed a pound and a half, and a pull of a green gold leaf on the stem…

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2009 AJDC New Talent Award

Jewelry artist Leila Tai was honored by the American Jewelry Design Council as the Grand Prize winner of its 2009 New Talent Award at a ceremony on Monday, July 27 at the JA New York Summer Show in the Javits Convention Center. Petals Ring The AJDC…

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The Works of Solveig Haukaas

Solveig Haukaas started to work in an enamel workshop in Bergen, Norway when she was near 17 years old. One day of each week she attended art school and in the evenings she studied accounting. After four years of study, she made an examination…

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Resolving Surface Irregularities in T-Splines

T-splines, a plug-in for Rhinoceros CAD software and bundled with Matrix 7 and above, is a great modeling tool for freeform designs. In the jewelry industry, T-splines makes it possible to create on-the-fly, continuous curvature surfaces…

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Jenny Reeves’ Layered Ring

Although a Philadelphia native, designer Jenny Reeves loves her adopted city of San Francisco. When a local jewelry organization held a San Francisco-themed design challenge, Reeves joined in, eager to create a piece that would pay tribute…

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Creating Colorful Jewelry Designs

When most people think of colored jewelry, their minds conjure visions of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. After all, jewelry makers have been relying on gemstones to add color to their work for thousands of years. But there are other ways…

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Fabricated Reversible Pearl Pendant

Design ideas often begin one way, then evolve into something different. Such was the case with Robin Waynee’s two-sided palladium pendant with pink sapphires, diamonds, and a rolling Tahitian pearl. Waynee, of Santa Fe, New Mexico,…

Article
Organic Geometric Bracelet

Always preferring a combination of metals in her jewelry, Sydney Lynch of Sydney Lynch Jewelry Inc. in Lincoln, Nebraska, discovered a way to achieve that look cost-effectively using a bi-metal of 22k yellow gold backed by sterling silver.…

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Extra Setting Material for CAD Files

When setting gemstones into castings that started life as CAD files, jewelers often complain that they don’t have quite enough metal with which to work. Building a little extra setting material into your CAD files is simple, and it can…

Article
Meteorite Pendant by Jacob Albee

Like many jewelers, Jacob Albee of Jacob Albee Goldsmith in Burlington, Vermont, buys stones without always knowing what he’s going to do with them. That was the case with a near-perfect circle of agate. “It was just a very cool translucent…

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Alishan Halebian’s Imperfect Perfection

Alishan Halebian’s sphere is a metaphor for light and life. Beginning with the concept of a sphere, Alishan Halebian of Alishan in Irvine, California, created a double-sided 65 mm diameter pendant/ring with design elements that are…

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4 Key Jewelry Trends 2015

Amid the holiday craziness that will be descending on the industry this month, it’s important to take time and give some thought now to what you’ll be selling to next year’s customers. To help make things a little easier, Adorn Insight…

Article
Award Winning Ring by Ryan Roberts

He just couldn’t help himself. When Ryan Roberts sat down to create a piece to showcase a 3.46 spessartite garnet cut by Stephen Avery, he started with the idea of making something a bit more understated and less expensive than his usual…

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Overcoming Lightweight Casting Challenges

It’s no wonder that as precious metals prices have risen to new heights over the past few years, jewelry castings have gotten thinner and lighter to maintain reasonable price points. It’s not uncommon today for impossibly thin…

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Design and Creation of Elesa

While at the Atlanta Bench Jewelers Conference, my friend Elesa Dillon (the national sales manager for Southern Jewelry News and Mid America Jewelry News, which I also write for) asked me to help her pick out a gemstone to have made into a ring.…

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Virtual Engraving in Matrix

When using CAD/CAM products like Gemvision’s Matrix, there are a number of “virtual” techniques to achieve renderings that more closely resemble the finished model. Of these, virtual engraving is a more advanced technique…

Article
CAD/CAM Techniques

The strength of Computer Aided Design &  Manufacturing is similar to that of any other tool on the bench:it is most effective when itis the right tool for the job.Gemvision’s Matrix 4.0 provides users with powerful design, presentation,and…

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Jewelry Designs: Raindrops Pendant

Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece of jewelry to our line. In this issue we will be working with our latest design. I’ll take you through every phase of production,…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Maya Pendant

Welcometo Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece ofjewelry to our line. In this issue we will be working with our latest design. I’ll take you through every phase of production,…

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Jewelry Designs: Grace Pendant

The Grace Pendant was designed specially for the Heart Gala, a benefit for the American Heart Association that Stacey and I strongly support. The graceful curves of this white gold heart pendant embrace a pink sapphire that is accented with…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Hope Pendant

Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece of jewelry to our line. In this issue we will be working with our latest design. I’ll take you through every phase of production,…

Article
CAD/CAM: Creating a Class Ring – Part 1

Advanced Jewelry Technologies (owned by this author) and Rio Grande are introducing a new CAD CAM system designed to make it far easier to make class rings, family crest jewelry, and corporate jewelry. This kit not only streamlines the concept…

Article
Laser Welding Sizing a Two-Tone Band

Sometimes you get a job like this one. Your customer has a platinum and 18k yellow gold wedding band that doesn’t fit anymore. In this case (unlike most of us who have been married a while) the customer needs to have the band made smaller.…

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Jewelry Designs: Steeplechase Pendant

As a traditional symbol of good luck, this piece is inspired by the horseshoe. It is dedicated to the power and grace of the race horse including those of our very own Iroquois Steeplechase. Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we…

Article
Laser Welding Solid Back on Opal Ring

This article is a step by step procedure in Laser Welding Solid Back on Opal Ring. The customer wanted a solid back on a ring in which the center stone wouldn’t take heat or where you would have to butcher the mounting to remove the stone.…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Titan Pendant

Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece of jewelry to our line. In this issue will we will be working with our latest design. I’ll take you through every phase of production,…

Article
CAD/CAM: Creating a Class Ring – Part 2

These step-by-step instruction manual guides the process (see procedure for making the class ring). With a core product to produce, endless variations are possible. The system consists of two components. These components are ring making…

Article
Designing Unique Jewelry

More and more jewelers are designing unique jewelry pieces for their clientele. One reason is the custom jewelry market is more accessible through computer-aided designing (CAD) and computer aided manufacturing (CAM). Another more important…

Article
Felicia Liban and Learning to Enamel

While living in Little Neck, NY, during the mid-sixties, I took an enameling class at the local YWHA. It took a while for me to overcome my fear of the open kiln, but in time it was alright, so much so, that after a few courses my instructor, Jeanette…

Article
The Enamelware of John Smith

This article showcases the selected works from the enamelist John Smith exhibition at Kaskaskia college. The exhibition took place March 15 through April 4, 2010 at Kaskaskia College, Centralia, IL. About John Smith His background is in…

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The Jewelry of Tamara Sergijenko

What fun for me to reminisce about our early friendship: Tamara Sergijenko from Tallin, Estonia and I from middle America! We first met in England, at the first meeting of the British Society of Enamellers. (I can’t recall the exact…

Article
How to Make a Plique a Jour Fairy

This is a HIDI, (How I Do It). It is not the only way to make a piece like this, there are probably better ways, but this one worked for me. I also assume you are familiar with all the basic goldsmithing techniques. Figure 1 – Completed Plique-a-Jour…

Article
The Life and Art of Sascha Brastoff

Sascha Brastoff was known for his talent and ability in many fields of art, both performing and visual, both fine art and fine craft. He was also one of our own, an enamel on metal artist, however that was just a small part of his output. Early Life…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Sisters Pendant

Sisterhood, however you define it, is the strongest bond. Best friends, mothers and daughters, your own sisters, or anyone very special to you. This necklace was designed as a lasting symbol of friendship, caring, and love. Wear it with…

Article
CAD/CAM: Modeling Project in JewelSpace

CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Design and Manufacturing) is bringing a new efficiency and profitability to the jewelry workplace. Who is better to use this technology than the bench jeweler with a working knowledge of jewelry construction? In…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Faceted Stones Pendant

Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece of jewelry to our line. In this issue will we will be working with our latest design. I’ll take you through every phase of production,…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Athena Pendant

This gemstone-encrusted shield is named in honor of Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom and warfare who was worshiped as a patroness of the arts and crafts. She is always shown with her magic shield. Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs,…

Article
Jewellery Career Options

One of the most interesting things about the jewellery/metals field is that there are so many career options, so many contexts that one can choose to work in. There are even ways of becoming wealthy if that is important in one’s goals. There are…

Article
Ways to Choose a Birthstone

“My birthstone is emerald,” a potential customer recently told me. “But I don’t like green,” she continued, “so I never buy gemstones.” Do we, and our customers, have choices when it comes to selecting a birthstone? What can we do when we don’t…

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Basic Bead Setting Techniques

First the stone’s diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in the metal for the pilot drill (about 1mm diameter). Then the metal is drilled through. The metal is drilled again until the hole is about 3/4 the size of the stone’s diameter.…

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Profitable Jewelry Design and Repair

A few years ago, Jewelers Circular Magazine reported that over 75% of all retail jewelers in America lose money on their jewelers.Making a living dealing with labor intensive dollars can be a real headache. It also can be enjoyable and profitable,…

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Book Review – Designing Jewelry

Boy these people are really good at what they do. I’d love to watch them drawing sometime. Like their previous work ‘The Art of Jewelry Design’ this book belongs in your collection if you are interesting in drawing jewelry and…

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Book Review – The Art of Jewelry Design

Do you like sumptuous drawings and colored renderings of gemstones and fine jewelry? Interested in basic design principles for commercial jewelry making? Want to impress customers and colleagues with your jewelry rendering skills? This…

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Book Review – The New Jewelry

Well, this is a book I have to have in my collection. I recommend it for yours. As a contemporary metal artist myself the book (and its earlier edition in 1985) is a vital resource for me, a place to see friend’s work, to moan about my own lack…

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Modes of Working with Jewelry

This short paper offers a set of names to describe how the jewellery metals field is made up in terms of the way practitioners approach their medium. There is no great truth to the way this has been done; it is just to have tools to discuss the subject…

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Jewellers’ Objective Attitude Towards Designing

It is sometimes useful to have criticism of one’s work in order to develop it. While studying as an apprentice or an art school student if one is lucky one learns the most from such criticism, preferably put in a positive manner. However when one…

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The Invisible Setting Process

This column is from the At the Bench column that appears every month in AJM. For this project, it is assumed that you have prepared the mounting and acquired the grooved stones for invisible setting. The use of a microscope or 10x eye loupe can…

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The Work of Judy Evans

In a speech recently delivered at the Platinum Day Symposium, entitled Evolution of a Design, Ms. Evans detailed her affinity for Platinum, her varied creative inspirations, and the design process involved in the launch of her exciting new…

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Working with Platinum & Platinum Designing

My skills as an artist combined with my years of experience at the bench have given me a practical approach to jewelry. While I want to achieve a bold, sculptural look, my jewelry has an appeal because it is also wearable and enduring. I often design…

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Michael David Sturlin Crochets with Gold

This crocheted necklace is created by weaving interlocking loops of 18k gold wire into a chain, using a needle. Because the chain is built loop by loop, it is a time consuming process: It can take up to three hours to crochet one inch..

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Michael David Sturlin’s Two Strand Crocheted Chain

With the quartz as the central focal point of the ‘Reflecting Pond Necklace,’ Sturlin had to design a chain that could support its weight. He started crocheting 18k red gold wire—75 feet of it to be exact—to create a two-strand chain.…

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The Work of Keith Lewis

Possibly the most controversial jewelry artist now working in the United States, Keith Lewis Is undergoing a transition from propagandist to post activist artist. Defiantly ‘out,’ queer, gay, and male, Lewis has spent the past decade or…

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The Work of Judith Hoyt

For more than 20 years Judith Hoyt has parsed the human figure in metal and mixed media. Beginning with a salvaged scrap of metal, wood, a book, or other material with a history, she fashions solitary or paired figures, often with a surprised…

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The Work of Darcy Miro

Artist Darcy Mire takes the term ‘precious jewelry’ and turns it on its head. Her careworn cuffs, rings, and neckpieces, most constructed of sterling silver or 18-karat gold, are more wearable sculpture than status symbol; they seem almost…

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The Work of Lilly Fitzgerald

The jewelry of Lilly Fitzgerald is washed in serenity. There is a soothing balance, peacefulness, and grace to her timeless one-of-a-kind creations. Fitzgerald strives to select materials that demonstrate extraordinary character: all…

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Platinum Bridal Jewelry

If you have never manufactured with platinum and you think that you are ready, if you manufacture with platinum, but you have not capitalized on the growing potential of the bridal market, even if you are successful at manufacturing platinum…

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The Work of Jay Song

“I’m not a secretive person,” Song observes, ‘but my work tells me I have many layers. I have a secret room in my heart telling me to do this kind of work.’ Each ring has a outwardly expressive force, yet Song expands the commemorative function…

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The Work of Yuyen Chang

Chang’s work is intentionally anthropomorphic, disturbingly so. She likens her technique to that of a plastic surgeon, shaping and sculpting on and beneath the surface, using traditional fabrication methods like die­forming, chasing,…

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The Jewelry of Thomas Mann

Not so many years ago Thomas Mann figured that 2002 would be his year to retire. But the projected date has come and gone, and Mann is busier than ever with reinvention instead of retirement. The publication in 2001 of the monograph Thomas Mann:…

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The Work of Mark Rooker

Missiles chase one another around Mark Rooker’s Circular Reasoning. Beneath the smoke plumes, lustrous silver water ripples on the bracelet’s surface and separates two island nations, each with a but and a nearby hatch that opens to launch…

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The Jewelry of Reiko Ishiyama

The delicious paradox of quantum physics is that matter exists simultaneously as particle and as wave. Much of Reiko Ishiyama’s recent jewelry shares that strange condition, appearing concurrently as both object and gesture, point and…

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The World of David Freda

One function of art is to challenge the status quo-to persuade, shock, or seduce us into seeing the world, and perhaps our own attitudes and beliefs, differently. David Freda, a San Clemente , California , metal artist and enamelist makes art…

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The work of Robly Glover

Archetypal images in sheet-constructed holloware, the vessels of Robly Glover give concrete form to the most ethereal and intuitive of content. Fascinated by the notion of unconscious predilections that from the unfathomable recesses…

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Bladed Sargasso Server by Andy Cooperman

Andy Cooperman’s Sargasso Server, a contemporary sterling silver fish slice, evokes life in the sea. The blade resembles a squid’s tapering, almost conical head, trailed by silver and gold ‘tentacles’ that form the handle. These long, interwoven…

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The Work of Michael Boyd

Jewelry artist Michael Boyd fills his cup with newfound forms and shapes. Well known for his contemporary roll-on cuff bracelets of colorful stones and mixed metals, Boyd captured me from the start with his architectural designs. While Boyd…

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The Work of Jennifer Trask

Jennifer Trask sometimes seems to approach jewelry like a natural historian, filling locket-sized, glass topped silver and gold cases with specimens isolated from the world around her. She likens herself to a Victorian taxonomist, and…

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The Work of ROY

Twenty first-century artists consider how best to relate to our changing world in a meaningful way. Pittsburgh artist ROY has chosen just two formats to present her worldviews: the bracelet, an object of adornment that she has always explored,…

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The Work of Tom Muir

Silver has been a part of American domestic ritual and tradition since the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when bourgeois families used coffee and tea services, serving utensils, and other silver domestic objects in imitation of their…

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The Work of Jennifer Crupi

Cool, glistening, and vaguely human, Jennifer Crupi’s sculpture and jewelry arouse curiosity even as they evoke fear. While the power of body language in art is typically linked with dance, theater, and especially mime, the interplay between…

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Project Management for Jewelers

I came up with this system to solve some production and prioritizing problems at a small custom jewelry store. We used this system mainly for custom jobs, however it can be adapted for repair or stock production as well.

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The Jewelry of Hermann Junger

Over the past forty years, jewelry making has become increasingly rich and diversified as the time-honored reliance on precious metals and gems has been augmented or even disavowed. After the Second World War, jewelry artists more and more…

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Colored Gemstone Jewelry Design and Repair

An experienced bench jeweler will often be able to create almost any design that doesn’t actually violate the laws of physics. But colored stones are softer and typically less durable than diamonds, and a setting designed for a diamond may…

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The Work of Steven Ford and David Forlano

Visitors to craft shows may know Steven Ford and David Forlano by their company name, CityZenCane, the polymer clay guys, but that doesn’t cover all they do. True, they emerged from the world of polymer clay with a highly developed aesthetic,…

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The Jewelry of Vivienne Jones

“I make jewelry the way I draw,” says Vivienne Jones. “That’s one of the great thins about metal, you can do that.” That Jones cites drawing, a very direct and personal mode of expression, as the closest parallel to her jewelry, seems fitting.…

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The Jewelry of Barbara Seidenath

When Venetian glassmakers sold out their state secrets to Czech glassmakers, Jablonec began its hegemony in glass beads. The region also became renowned for through its production of costume jewelry during the second half of the 18th century,…

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2005 Spectrum Awards Winners

The 2005 American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Spectrum Awards competition concluded in October with 57 winners chosen from a field of 420 gemstone and jewelry entries. The Spectrum Awards competition encompasses two major awards: the…

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Coloring Techniques for Metalsmiths

Jewelers are a restless and inquisitive group. Not content with producing sumptuous jewelry, they spray it with chemicals, dip it in acids or torch it. Just to see what happens. On a good day, what happens is colored metal. However, the unpredictability,…

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The Work of Paul McClure

Mounted in Paul McClure’s silver pendant, Alveoli, are two pearls taken from a necklace his mother left him when she died of cancer. The work is a memento of her death, in memory of her life. Shaped like the bronchial branches of the lungs, the…

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The Work of Three Contemporary Wire Artists

Working on the most meticulous and precise scale, three contemporary wire artists, Barbara SilverStein, Nikki Feldbaum and Biba Schutz create jewelry that is broad in appeal and expansive in effect.

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Award Winning Cufflinks by Bill Holman

These cufflinks designed by Bill Holman were award winners in the AGTA 2004 Spectrum design competition. They are 18-karat yellow gold and feature Drusy agates with a 24-karat deposition layer over the exposed crystal formation. The small…

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The Jewelry of Connie Verrusio

Fascinated by the way things work, Connie Verrusio creates radical new jewelry forms from leftover functions. Connie Verrusio has double vision: when she looks at screws, she sees earrings, and when she looks at a ruler, she sees a bracelet.…

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The Jewelry of Steff Korsage

Jewelry artist Steff Korsage followed her own determined path to find her own distinct voice, making hollow forms from metal – as individual beads and elements in eye-catching jewelry. One night in 1992, Steff Korsage had an auspicious dream.…

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The Jewelry of Holly Lee

It takes an interesting person to make interesting jewelry and Holly Lee fits the bill. Originally from a family that moved every three years, Lee blossomed in the two years she studied at Tai Pei American high school in Taiwan. “This school’s…

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Chain and Bracelet Catches 2

Box catches lend themselves to a wide range of shapes and are frequently used on chains, bracelets and cuff bracelets. They combine security with ease of use and the ability to be adapted to the needs of each design. After mastering the basics,…

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The Jewelry of Barbara Heinrich

Jewelry maker and studio boss Barbara Heinrich keeps business strategies and artistic expression in harmony while creating jewelry designs that strike a chord. When technical mastery meets metal and brilliant stones in her studio, the…

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Chinese Freshwater Pearls

When Chinese freshwater pearls began flooding the market several years ago, craft artists took notice. It is not that pearls were new to them. Studio jewelers had been incorporating pearls into their designs for decades, long before the current…

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The Future of Design

Inhorgenta europe (2005) – 20 young designers and newcomers to the trade fair have the opportunity to present their work to a specialist audience for the first time. What is new this year? All participants are female.

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How to Make a Three Stone Dangle Pendant

The assembly of this three stone pendant pendant appears simple but when using traditional methods to position and join the tiny parts it can be tricky and time consuming. Each of the bezel units will be connected by jump rings and will dangle…

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The Jewelry of Manfred Bischoff

Manfred Bischoff has a fascination with language. Like many Europeans of his generation, Bischoff is fluent in several languages, including German, English, French, and Italian. And, as an artist of his generation, he is similarly versed…

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Phillip Voetsch’s Jewelry Design Process

Phillip Voetsch is an accomplished designer and master level bench jeweler, he began using 3D CAD/CAM technology 3 1/2 years ago. With each project, he begins by reviewing the information recorded during the interview, including key information…

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From CAD to Jewelry

Although jewelry design by goldsmiths and designers is characterized by unique pieces, unlike the industrial production of jewelry, ever greater numbers of jewelry designers are starting to tap the possibilities of computer-assisted…

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Gemstone Cutting Creates Freedom for Design

Difficult times are often good times for the unusual. The higher the hurdle that must be overcome to make clients decide to buy, the more important are originality and exclusiveness. Proven, well-loved, timeless… This year the trend is…

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Simple Method of Forming Jump Rings

This paper describes a simple process of forming jump rings. These jump rings were formed from 16 guage sterling silver wire. The links will be 1/2 inches in diameter and will be used to create a pottery shard link concho belt..

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The Work of Georg Bunz

The renowned jewelry and watch manufacturer Bunz will celebrate its 30th anniversary in June 2005. Since the company was launched in 1975, the world famous jewelry designer, Georg Bunz, has enthralled the specialist audience and numerous…

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The Jewelry of Sue Amendolara

Once upon a time, all art was about nature, the simplification or elaboration of natural forms. Egyptians assembled leaves of the thinnest gold and molded fruit in vividly colored glass into necklaces and diadems. Ancient Greeks fashioned…

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The Jewelry of Sandra Enterline

Since earning a BFA at the Rhode Island School of Design in 1983, Enterline has narrowed her focus to a handful of simple shapes and forms and has emphasized construction so spare that it might almost seem severe. In the first decade of her career,…

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Jewelry Repairs with ABI Mini Pulse Arc III

This article covers routine repair and assembly projects accomplished using Mini Pulse Arc III. Tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc equipment settings will differ and are based upon the volume, amount of contact and alloy of the material you are…

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Design Material Alternatives

Expanding the boundaries of conventional jewelry design through the use of unusual materials — Titanium, Niobium, Copper, Metal clay, Acrylic, Resin –It is not the usual materials inventory for jewelry makers. For millennia, jewelry…

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Karen Mccreary – Mystifying Acrylic

McCreary is no stranger to traditional jewelry making. She took her first job with a jewelry manufacturer in the early 1970s, and spent several years casting, mold making, and model making for jewelers while she studied for her B.F.A. Her current…

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The Work of Ivy Solomon

Ivy Solomon combining resin, metal clay, and traditional fabrication techniques, her award-winning pendants are structured around textures and colors in ways that frequently depart from traditional jewelry designs. “When you use stones,…

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Joan Dulla – Respect for Niobium

Dulla crochets niobium wire into airy beads and necklaces studded with Swarovski crystals. The result is jewelry that is bright, colorful, and exuberantly joyful. The sheer brightness of her work is even more surprising if you know her personal…

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Noël Yovovich – Seeing Titanium

Noel Yovovich discovered titanium in her first year as a jewelry artist. “A friend of mine was working with it and doing fairly typical things — heating it from one side to get gradient bright colors, for example,” says Yovovich. “She showed…

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Is There a Jewelry Avant-garde?

The term avant-garde is freighted with baggage from its source in military language. Consider the implications of applying the idea of an armed vanguard to the arts: The term assumes a condition in which a smaller group leads the way for a larger…

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The Jewelry of Cynthia Eid

Standing in her forming studio, surrounded by hammers, stakes, and photo equipment, metalsmith Cynthia Eid is experiencing a moment of excitement. Even though she has finessed metal into altered states for 30 years, this decisive moment…

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2 Tips for a Successful Jewelry Collection

In times of increased price competition and global producers, cooperation with designers is also an important factor for large jewelry companies in order to develop new collections in a rapid and targeted manner. Increasing numbers of companies…

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Making a Pearl and Diamond Ring

This illustration is of a 14-karat white gold ring for three cultured freshwater pearls and two small accent diamonds. After preparing the wax, casting and pre-finishing, the ring was prepared for tack welding. There are 5 parts to be tacked…

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The Orange Necklace by Chihiro Makio

One of the more difficult challenges Chihiro Makio of 314 Studio in Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts, faced when creating her Orange Necklace was getting the citrus-themed elements to sit properly on the wearers neck. The piece comprises roughly…

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Tie Pins – Fashion Rediscovered

Like many decorative accessories, tie tacks exist because they have a practical function. The fabric, structure, and cut of the cravats of earlier eras meant that the arrangement had to be pinned in place. Back in the 18th century, when fashion…

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Experimental Jewelry from Senegal

Experimentelles Schmuck design (Experimental Jewelry Design) is the name of a project implemented by the Berlin-based painter and goldsmith Werner Reister in collaboration with the Goethe Institut in Dakar (West Africa). No one dreamed…

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Cufflinks Making a Comeback

Although it can do two things at once – combine form and function – cufflinks disappeared from the world of mens shirt sleeves for a long time. However, a new generation of cufflinks is conquering the market and taking it by storm.

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The Jewelry of Michael Zobel

What he wanted to be was a painter, although he was also thinking about being a graphic artist or book illustrator. But, because his father thought that things like that were too bohemian and wanted his son to learn a proper trade, Michael Zobel…

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Creating Jewelry

For this project, the No. 1 tip was used with the ABI Pulse Arc Welder. Five tips come with the unit giving the user multiple choices for the wide variety of welding applications commonly encountered by bench jeweler generalists. Periodically,…

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Jewels Made of Paper Bags

For a long time now in artisan jewelry work, all that glitters is not gold. Precious metals, diamonds, and pearls now have competition. Four Berlin-based designers allow themselves the luxury of blazing new trails with unusual materials…

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Manufacturing a Free-Form Pendant

This article features the manufacturing steps for a one-of-a-kind free-form pendant designed and created by Barney Jette. The center stone is a one-of-a-kind chrysoprase carving by Steve Walters, Ramona, CA and is highlighted by a cultured…

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The Work of Marie Zimmermann

Imagine walking into your studio and having the skill and confidence to create anything you desire. From the tiniest ladys wristwatch, surrounded with articulated platinum leaves and set with diamonds, to enormous cast-bronze doors weighing…

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The Jewelry of Barney Jette

Barney Jette and wife Nancy Ball have built a retail success story,
solely focused on jewelry featuring Jettes design. The brand they
have built is recognized throughout the nation and their reputation
is one that theyve…

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CAD/CAM: Passion and Innovation

Greg Stopka and his wife Lee began JewelSmiths 18 years ago with a belief they could succeed by providing jewelry repair and restoration directly to consumers – with no inventory. Dean Stopka (right), Gregs brother joined the couple 12 years…

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Book Review – The New Clay

The New Clay is a serious and readable text offering polyform clays as a material for unique and production jewelry and object making. Polyform clays are PVC claylike materials which come in numerous colors, consistencies and working characteristics…

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Customized Stock Earrings

This project features a stock pair of earrings that are customized for cultured pearls. The request was to design earrings that would be unique, modern and functional – within a tight budget. To prepare them for the addition of 22-karat yellow…

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CAD/CAM Design and Model Making Services

Retailers seeking designers and model makers for fulfilling custom orders or for developing new designs exclusive to their inventories have a growing variety of options available to them. Companies providing these services through Computer…

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The Work of William Frederick

Daniel Pedersons planishing hammer came into the possession of William Frederick in a way that still provokes emotion. Pederson, a master Norwegian silversmith renowned for his shy but courtly manners and deft hammer marks, was co-owner…

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The Jewelry of Sofia Calderwood

The work of Sofia Calderwood seems to be asking, Why do we wear jewelry? Is it to gain the attention of others? And if so, why not point directly to parts of the body widely thought of as physical hot spots of excitement? Certainly, many other artists…

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Platinum Casting with Gemstones

Platinum casting with gemstones in place has been the latest development before the end of the second millennium. It has been a world first to give fully successful results. The development of this new process required several years of uninterrupted…

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The Jewelry of Donald Stuart

Someone once called Donald Stuart a Renaissance Man, an that doesnt seem too far from the truth. In a career that has stretched over 35 years, Stuart has mastered the arts of gold and silversmithing, textile weaving, and woodworking. He has…

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Making a 950 Palladium Signet Ring

The natural beauty of this white, bright and light palladium ring is enhanced with hand engraving of initials done in relief. 950 palladium manufacturing methods and techniques covered in this project are:
a) Injection wax preparation…

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The Work of Lisa Jenks

Eighteen months ago, New York City-based designer Lisa Jenks began a partnership with Origins, the well-known skin care products store. As the venture has progressed, shes created everything from compacts to pomanders for potpourri to…

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The Jewlery of Alberto Zorzi

People who think exclusively of geometric forms when they hear the name Alberto Zorzi only know half the story. His jewelry combines avant garde design with traditional goldsmith techniques. Born in Santa Giustina in Colle in the Province…

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Manufacturing Mokume Gane Jewelry

Mokume gane translated from Japanese means “wood eye metal”. This rare metal lamination process was developed and used by Japanese craftsmen in the 17th century for the adornment of samurai swords. Today, mokume gane jewelry is growing in…

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Sphearrings: From Concept to Market

One of the newest earring findings to hit the market is showing a little earlobe midriffand it could turn the way people perceive earring design inside out.
Patented Sphearrings insert through the back of the car, leaving more of the lobe…

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How to Make Your Own Locket

Before photography, lockets were decorated with miniature, handpainted portraits — a luxury few could afford. The advent of affordable photographic miniatures propelled the locket to the forefront of jewelry fashion during the sentimental…

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Practical Approach to CAD/CAM

Once more the realm of engineers and number-crunchers, CAD over the years has become more user-friendly and artisan-intuitive. Similarly, small-shop, multi-axis CAM systems allow more jewelers to experience the technologys potential…

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Messages on Jewelry Designs

As many and varied as the reasons may be to publicize a message or to make a very personal statement, the manners in which one can go about accomplishing it are equally manifold. Some people sit down and write a book — others design jewelry.

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The Jewelry of Antonio Bernardo

From autodidact to prize-winning designer: 30 years ago, the Brazilian national Antonio bernardo founded his jewelry production firm in Rio de Janeiro. In 2004, he won two of the most coveted international design prizes for the first time,…

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Charles Loloma – Hopi Modernist

Master jeweler Charles Loloma was a Hopi spiritual leader — a member of the Badger Clan and a Hopi snake priest. His powers of charm extended through his ritual life and into his compelling jewelry. In daily life, Loloma never talked about Hopi…

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The Holloware of David Huang

Several disparate techniques and a clear personal philosophy came together over a period of years to produce these extraordinary pieces. Born in 1971 in Michigan, Huang settled on visual art as a career even before he entered high school.…

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John Marshall – The Birth of Time

John Marshalls position in American art is an awkward one. His sculptures of fine silver with acrylic, Corian, wood, and basalt are larger than the ornamental metal objects usually associated with silver. At the same time, they are smaller…

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Great Minds Take Jewelry Design to New Heights

om Dailing works in metal and Richard Homer in stone, but otherwise they are very much in sync. Dailings jewelry designs win prestigious awards. So do Homers cut gemstones. Both have a passion for exploration and innovation. Both love to spend…

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Pat Pruitt’s Stainless Steel Jewelry

Pat Pruitt of Paguate, New Mexico, has been working with stainless steel for over a decade. Three years ago, he decided to seriously commit himself to making fine jewelry from it, saying, Let me see what I can do with this, how far I can take it.…

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Color Stories Designing Around a Dynamic Opal

‘I show you an opal. You show me a design.’ That was the deal I struck with the three willing designers whose imaginative jewelry pieces you’ll see on the following pages. Once they accepted the challenge to design around this fabulous opal from…

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How to Make a Three-Part Silver Ring

Using a relatively inexpensive metal and casting it in an ingot mold, you can create a sophisticated design at the low price point many cash-strapped consumers are looking for these days. Using silver casting grain minimizes costs and maximizes…

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Jeweler Larry Bruno Recycles

When Larry Bruno built his new store across from picturesque Springfield Falls in western Pennsylvania, he knew he had lucked out. His store would become a destination for romantic couples seeking diamonds and a chance for a photo next to the…

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Linda Threadgill: Conceptualizing Ornament

Threadgills keen interest in ornament undoubtedly arises from her longstanding practice of etching motifs into the surfaces of her works, a process that she began perfecting as early as her graduate student days. In 1984, after studying…

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Leila Tai – Plique-a-jour Delight

Leila Tai of New York City will be the first person to tell you that in order to take on the ancient technique of plique–jour enameling, it helps to be a little crazy. But looking at the delicately shimmering scrollwork that brings color and life…

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Superfit’s Hinge and Latch System

Getting a superior fit on your next custom ring order could be just a few mouse clicks away. Superfit Inc., the King of Prussia, Pennsylvania-based manufacturer known for its tailor-fit shanks, recently launched Digital Installations,…

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Jim Dailing Crafts Sentimental “Story Rings”

Custom designer Jim Dailing of Bend, Oregon, has been making jewelry for 30 years. For a brief stint during the mid 1980s he did so in a traditional jewelry store that he helped to open. But he soon found that he was not a fan of all the distractions…

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Etienne Perret Explores Gem Ceramic

It’s harder than steel, more durable than enamel, can be worn for years without scratching, and costs less than half the price of gold. It’s not science fiction; it’s the high-end ‘gem ceramic’ jewelry made by Etienne Perret of Salon Etienne…

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The Art of Anticlastic Raising

Transforming a single sheet of metal into an undulating organic form using only a hammer and stake is the art of anticlastic raising. When the hammer hits the piece of sheet metal resting on the stake, the metal rises into curves or coils, its…

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CAD Craft In Ron Litolff’s Ring

To create a new ring to showcase the beauty of a customer’s sentimental diamonds, Knoxville, Tennesseebased jeweler Ron Litolff of Gemstone Designs blended old-world craftsmanship with 21st-century technology. Hand-engraved finish…

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Alexandra Hart – Crowning Achievement

Putting a spin on tradition, Alexandra Hart of Alexandra Hart in San Diego crafted Broollopskronan, or Bridal Crown, a regal wedding headdress. The commission from a half-Swedish bride for something unusual but still traditional had Hart…

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Echoes of Ancient Greece – Belle Brooke Barer

Belle Brooke Barer of Belle Brooke Designs in Los Angeles created a successful union when she brought together 18k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver in her necklace named for the Greek goddess of marriage, Hera. The design began with…

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Renaissance Ring by Andrew Costen

Known for his contemporary designs, Andrew Costen of Costen Catbalue in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, enjoys occasionally returning to his roots to create what he calls a Renaissance ring, this one in 18k white and yellow gold and…

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Ring by Cynthia Renée Zava

With textures that echo the Patagonian mountains of Chile, the Torres del Paine Ring by Cynthia Rene Zava of Cynthia Rene Inc. in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, tells the tale of one family’s moving experiences on a trip to Chile. Zava tells the…

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Genevieve Yang – Lunar Cycle Necklace

They say inspiration strikes when you least expect it. For designer Genevieve Yang of Santa Rosa, California, the inspiration for a new phase of her career all started in the cold, dark wilderness of Wyoming. An outdoor enthusiast, Yang participated…

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Mary V. Smith – Burning Brightly

A mesmerizing flame melting spectacularly colored glass into a perfect bead. The possibilities of infinite shapes and sizes. The beautiful jewelry those beads can become. All of these factors pulled Mary V. Smith of St. Peters, Missouri,…

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Katy Briscoe – Creating Raj

One February at the Tucson gem shows, inspiration took flight for Katy Briscoe of Katy Briscoe Inc. in Houston. “I remember opening a paper with this carved blue sapphire and as soon as I saw the stone I said, ‘You’re a peacock,'” she recalls.…

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Jewelry Making Study Sheet

Jewelry making is a big job. That is that there is a lot to know and a lot to learn. When learning, particularly on your own, as many people do, it can be very useful to structure your learning experience. I tell students that it takes three times…

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Ion Ionescu’s Mon Cheerie Ring

Mon Cheerie By Ion Ionescu. Winner. First Place, Evening Wear. 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards. You could argue that a little birdie told him to do it. While out running errands on a hot day, Ion Ionescu of Ionescu Design in New York City came upon an…

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Circus, Circus Ring By Pierre-Yves Paquette

Children and adults alike enjoy the spectacle of the circus. For jewelry designer Pierre-Yves Paquette of Pierre-Yves in Saint-Sauveur, Quebec, Canada, the circus inspired an award-winning jewelry design. Fascinated by the colors under…

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Erik Stewart – Inspired by the Brooklyn Bridge

It was his first time in New York City. Surrounded by the skyscrapers and bright lights of the Big Apple, Erik Stewart of Erik Stewart Jewelry in Tucson soaked up the city’s energy. But the sight that captivated him most was the complex network…

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CAD Modeling Prong Settings

If you’re designing jewelry using CAD, understanding how the piece will be cast and then set and finished at the bench can mean the difference between failure and success. When modeling prong settings, there are a few tricks you can use to ensure…

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Book Review – Classic Earring Designs

This small paperback book is written and illustrated by Nola May. At $9.95 it is an affordable introduction to ‘Indian’ style beaded earrings made with small glass beads. If that sounds like a sentence I’ve written before it is because this…

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Full eBook: Practical Jewelry Rendering

This practical tool-in-a-book combines instruction on rendering techniques with unique guides that assist designers as they conceive jewelry and other works for the body. An envelop on the inside back cover contains a useful plastic template…

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Randy Polk – Stainless Steel Ring

A few years ago, Randy Polk of Randy Polk Designs in Fountain Hills, Arizona, knew he needed to make some changes in his business. “When gold is going up and the economy is going down, you have to find some footing,” he says. For Polk, that meant…

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Alex and Ani – Positive Energy

For Alex and Ani, booming success points back to manufacturing locally, with love
Pharmaceutical salesperson Kelly Oliver logs thousands of airline miles every year — and she never flies without her St. Christopher bangle, her sacred…

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Novell Design Studio

At Novell Design Studio, efficiency, quality, and service get a jolt of passion
You can hear the passion in Bruce Pucciarello’s voice when he talks about what it means to keep his jewelry manufacturing operation in the U.S. When you walk…

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Mystery Box Jewelry Challenge

Welcome to the Mystery Box Challenge! You are among the select designers who have received this box of materials, Your mission is to use these materials to create a unique piece of jewelry in four weeks’ time. You must incorporate into your design…

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Ryan Roberts’ First CAD Design

When all sides of a dangle earring are beautiful, choosing the side to face front can be problematic. Ryan Roberts of Santa Fe, New Mexico, found a solution: A tiny ball hinge set into the pearl at the top of the earring that enables it to slowly…

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Temple of the Sacred Heart

Sometimes a design becomes more than the sum of its parts. Designer Cristopher Olson and master jeweler Paul Schaaf of Molina Fine Jewelers in Phoenix collaborated on just such a piece, which they named Temple of the Sacred Heart. The platinum…

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The Enamelware of Ben Caldwell

Ben Caldwell is a painter, copper and silver smith, musical instrument builder, and inventor. He trained at the Studio School of New York under Charles Cajori, an abstract expressionist who exhibited with William de Kooning in the 1960s.…

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Jewelry Making Tricks

Check out this list of 19 jewelry making tips and tricks for preparation, cleaning, setting, how-to’s and more.

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Book Review – Legacy: Jewelry Techniques of West Africa

In this beautiful and personal volume, readers are invited to visit the sparse market stalls, examine the heirloom tools and meet the craftsmen responsible for the living tradition of jewelry in West Africa. Legacy offers step-by-step investigations…

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