Jewelry Making


Every aspect of jewelry making and every imaginable technique.

HomeJewelry Making
How to Make a Filigree Bail

How to Make a Filigree Bail

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein shows you how to make a filigree-style bail for a pendant. Adding a...
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How to Make Powder Solder for Filigree

How to Make Powder Solder for Filigree

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein shows you how to make and use powdered solder. Powdered solder plays an...
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How to Set, Polish, and Finish a Bezel Set Ring

How to Set, Polish, and Finish a Bezel Set Ring

In this tutorial, Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy shows you how to bezel set a stone and then polish and...
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How to Make a Round Silver Ring Video

How to Make a Round Silver Ring Video

Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy, a bench jeweler out of Massachusetts, leads you through the basics of making a round...
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Filing, Sanding, and Buffing: Hand Finishing

Filing, Sanding, and Buffing: Hand Finishing

Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman offer tips, tricks, and various techniques to finish your project by hand. You...
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How to Resize a Ring

How to Resize a Ring

Sizing a ring is one of the most requested repairs a jeweler will see. Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois teaches you...
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Working with Precious Metals: Silver

Working with Precious Metals: Silver

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to create a silver band. Working with silver is a...
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Tube Setting With Filigree Applications

Tube Setting With Filigree Applications

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein demonstrates the tube setting technique. Tube-set gemstones are a simple way to enhance...
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How to Make Open Huggie Hoop Earrings

How to Make Open Huggie Hoop Earrings

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to make these super-cute open huggie hoop earrings. This versatile...
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How to Make Basic Filigree Shapes

How to Make Basic Filigree Shapes

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein demonstrates how to construct several simple shapes that come together like building blocks...
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How to Make Filigree Wire

How to Make Filigree Wire

Filigree wire is made from twisted and flattened pairs of wire and used to create decorative shapes. In this video,...
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How to Make Threader Earrings

How to Make Threader Earrings

Composed of a post, chain, and a dangle element, a threader earring threads a chain through the earlobe. Ganoksin instructor...
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Troubleshooting Soldering

Troubleshooting Soldering

This troubleshooting tutorial from Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman highlights some common soldering problems and their solutions. Pattie...
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How to Repair a Thin Ring Shank

How to Repair a Thin Ring Shank

Fixing a worn thin shank is an essential repair for rings. Learn how to re-shank a worn or split shank...
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How to Polish Stones, Gems, and Diamonds the Right Way

How to Polish Stones, Gems, and Diamonds the Right Way

How do you clean your jewellery? Doing it yourself isn’t the answer. Nor is using improper tools or techniques that...
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How to Create a Butt Joint

How to Create a Butt Joint

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois demonstrates two methods to solder a butt joint, which involves joining metal pieces...
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Introduction to Soldering

Introduction to Soldering

Learn the basics of soldering from Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman. They walk you through the fundamentals like...
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Soldering Techniques from Beginner to Advanced

Soldering Techniques from Beginner to Advanced

This tutorial from Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman features various soldering methods that you can implement to improve...
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How to Make Sizing Beads to Size a Ring Down

How to Make Sizing Beads to Size a Ring Down

Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to make sizing beads - a perfect solution for difficult to size rings. Mechelle goes over...
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Installing a Peg Head With Split Prongs

Installing a Peg Head With Split Prongs

In this video, Ganoksin's Mechelle Lois shows you how to install peg head and split prong settings on a band....
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How to Sweat Solder

How to Sweat Solder

Sweat soldering is a technique that joins flat metal pieces by flowing solder on each piece and then reflowing the...
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Frame Basics and Soldering with Paste

Frame Basics and Soldering with Paste

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein covers the assembly of filigree frames and demonstrates the soldering technique for both...
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How to Make and Set a Cabochon Bezel

How to Make and Set a Cabochon Bezel

A bezel is the oldest and easiest type of cabochon setting. It’s an essential jewelry-making skill and a great way...
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How to Repair a Bezel Using a Jump Ring

How to Repair a Bezel Using a Jump Ring

You can restore a thinning bezel in several ways. In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to...
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How to Repair an Ear Wire

How to Repair an Ear Wire

Earrings that dangle or have movement to them are often made with an ear wire. This is the portion of...
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How to Make a Picture Frame Pendant

How to Make a Picture Frame Pendant

Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy teaches you how to make a sterling silver picture frame pendant in this video. Follow...
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How to String Pearls

How to String Pearls

Pearl stringing is a high-demand repair that is a great skill to have in your pocket. The same stringing technique...
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Filing, Sanding and Buffing: Using Flex Shaft Machine

Filing, Sanding and Buffing: Using Flex Shaft Machine

The flex shaft machine is one of the most common tools at a jeweler's bench. Watch Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst...
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How to Finish a Chain End

How to Finish a Chain End

Whether you want to finish a chain you bought by the foot or repair a clasp or jump ring on...
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How to Repair a Chain

How to Repair a Chain

Next to ring sizing, chain repairs are the most common jewelry repair you'll see because chains are worn regularly and...
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Foldforming Overview and Techniques

Foldforming Overview and Techniques

Master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain invented foldforming and demonstrates the technique in this video. Foldforming is a system of metalworking that...
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Step by Step Guide to Single Row Pave Settings

Step by Step Guide to Single Row Pave Settings

Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set into a narrow strip of metal, is a...
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How to Create a Shared Prong Setting

How to Create a Shared Prong Setting

In this video, Ganoksin’s Mechelle Lois demonstrates setting a shared prong on an anniversary band.  This popular setting, common in...
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How to Channel Set

How to Channel Set

In this instructional video, Ganoksin’s Mechelle Lois demonstrates the double undercut technique for channel setting stones.  Watch as Mechelle guides...
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Finishing Your Filigree Pieces

Finishing Your Filigree Pieces

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein demonstrates the final finishing steps for your filigree creations.  Follow along with Milt...
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How to Make and Set Bezel for a Faceted Stone

How to Make and Set Bezel for a Faceted Stone

In this video tutorial, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to hand-fabricate a bezel for a faceted stone. Mechelle provides...
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How to Install a Figure 8 Catch

How to Install a Figure 8 Catch

A figure 8 safety clasp is added to the box clasp of a link or bangle bracelet as a backup...
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How to Repair a Bezel by Patching

How to Repair a Bezel by Patching

Over time, bezels can wear thin, increasing the risk of the stone breaking or coming loose. There are multiple ways...
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How to Add a Safety Chain to a Bracelet

How to Add a Safety Chain to a Bracelet

Safety chains are necessary additions to any high-value bracelets for additional security. They prevent bracelets from falling off when a...
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How to Repair an Earring Post

How to Repair an Earring Post

Earrings with a post can break or bend from too much wear. Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois walks you through the...
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How to Repair a Channel on a Channel Set Ring

How to Repair a Channel on a Channel Set Ring

When a channel set ring needs repair, it's almost always because the channel has worn down over time. This creates...
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Apply Your Skills – 4 Beginner Metalsmithing Projects

Apply Your Skills – 4 Beginner Metalsmithing Projects

Take what you have learned from our other soldering videos and watch Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman work...
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How to Resize a Ring With a Stone

How to Resize a Ring With a Stone

In part 2 of this series, instructor Mechelle Lois teaches you how to re-size a ring with a stone. Sizing...
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Introduction to Sawing & Piercing

Introduction to Sawing & Piercing

Sawing and piercing metal using a jeweler's saw is a fundamental skill for any bench jeweler. Join Ganoksin instructors Pattie...
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How to Bezel Set Fancy Cut Soft Stones

How to Bezel Set Fancy Cut Soft Stones

The one request that makes a jeweler's blood pressure rise is when they are asked to bezel set a fancy...
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How to Make Snake Stud Earrings

How to Make Snake Stud Earrings

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to make snake stud earrings. Snakes are a compelling and...
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How to Repair a Cuff Bracelet

How to Repair a Cuff Bracelet

Cuff bracelets are squeezed on the wrist for a custom fit every time they're worn. These constant adjustments weaken the...
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How to Flush Set a Faceted Stone

How to Flush Set a Faceted Stone

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to flush set round, faceted stones into a plain ring band....
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Paste Solder and Torch Basics

Paste Solder and Torch Basics

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein focuses on the fundamentals of using paste solder, a versatile and convenient form...
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How to Make a Paper Clip Bracelet

How to Make a Paper Clip Bracelet

Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy shows you how to make a paper clip bracelet from sterling silver wire. These oval-link...
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How to Solder a Bezel Cup to a Ring Band

How to Solder a Bezel Cup to a Ring Band

Watch as Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy takes you through the steps of soldering a bezel cup to a ring...
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How to Make a Bezel Cup Video

How to Make a Bezel Cup Video

Learn how to make a bezel cup with Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy. In this video, she'll give you step-by-step...
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How to Solder Two Rings Together

How to Solder Two Rings Together

Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to solder two rings together. By soldering the base of the bands together, the rings will...
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How to Repair a Prong

How to Repair a Prong

Repairing a prong is one of the most requested repairs for a jeweler. In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois...
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How to Install a Clasp

How to Install a Clasp

When the spring inside a clasp wears out, you'll need to install a new clasp. In this video, Ganoksin instructor...
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Tube Setting a Faceted Stone

Tube Setting a Faceted Stone

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to bezel set a faceted stone in tubing. Tube setting...
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Working with Precious Metals: Gold

Working with Precious Metals: Gold

In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to create bands from 14K yellow, white, and rose gold,...
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Wax Casting Burnout Cycles

If you are experiencing rough surfaces, discolored metal or no-fills, the problem may be in the burnout. When casting, the...
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How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain

How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain

I took in a broken hollow rope chain bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet had caught on a desk...
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The Best Flux For Soldering Jewelry: How To Choose The Right One For Your Project

Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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How to Create a Basic Link Chain

How to Create a Basic Link Chain

Making a simple or basic link chain to display your pendant designs is a great way to add further value...
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Electroplating Jewellery

Electroplating Jewellery

Electroplating is a method to put a metal coating onto an object, in our case a piece of jewellery, by...
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Tips & Techniques for Popular Finishing Touches

Tips & Techniques for Popular Finishing Touches

We asked a number of top jewelers to tell us their best practices, techniques, and tips for creating satin, brushed,...
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Keum-Boo Technique

This Korean technique for applying 24k gold to silver is in fact widely used in various cultures; Japanese, Chinese and...
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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword

Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as...
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Success in Polishing Platinum

Platinum takes more effort to polish, for the simple reason that it does not wear as other precious metals do...
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Platinum Alloys – Features & Benefits

In this presentation I attempted to provide you with information on platinum alloys to help you make an informed decision...
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Understanding the Working Titanium

Because titanium behaves somewhat differently than the standard metals in the goldsmith's workshop some special attention to its working is...
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Cloisonne Primer – History of Cloisonne Technique

In the late 20s, a small enamel tray, made in China, introduced us to the word cloisonne. The material looked...
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Casting Notes for Silver Lost Wax Casting

Casting of silver can be fairly easy and these notes are the results of my experience through trial and error...
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Sand Casting Safety Notes

Sand casting is used extensively for large-scale casting, such as engine blocks, and the grates that one sees around trees...
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Guide to Fishtail Settings

Guide to Fishtail Settings

One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off...
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Metal Salt Etching, Resists and Resist Removal

Metalsmiths and enamelists have used ferric chloride for several years as a safer alternative to nitric acid for copper and...
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Using Liver of Sulfur

This is a mixture of potassium sulfides which has traditionally been used to darken or 'antique' silver and bronzes. This...
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Pickling Notes

Jewelers treat soldered objects with dilute acid solutions to remove oxides produced from heating and soldering as well as glassy...
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Iridescent Patina Recipe

This is the basic recipe for the iridescent patina. This patina is most effective on highly textured pieces, such as...
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Patina Formulas

The surface of metals may be colored, a patina added either chemically or with heat. Patinas are generally achieved by...
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Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith

Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith

Hydraulic die forming is a process which hasn't received a lot of press. Perhaps its usefulness seems limited to mass...
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Step by Step Guide to Fishtail Settings

Step by Step Guide to Fishtail Settings

One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off...
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Jewellery Career Options

One of the most interesting things about the jewellery/metals field is that there are so many career options, so many...
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Patination Safety Considerations

Jewelers use so-called -oxidising- solutions to darken metals like silver, copper, brass, nickel silver, bronze and, with specialized mixtures, on...
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Platinum Durability vs Scratching

There is a major difference between durability and scratch resistance. Platinum is very durable. When scratched, the scratch actually displaces...
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Casting Investment Materials and Applications

Casting Investment Materials and Applications

The casting investment process enjoys wide popularity in the production of commercial and one-of-a-kind art metal objects. However, production practice...
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Anticlastic Forming Techniques

Anticlastic Forming Techniques

Transforming a flat piece of metal into a flowing form, free from constraints, wild, dynamic and strong. This is the...
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Understanding the Process of Platinum Casting

Platinum casting is different from gold or silver casting, and insufficient preparation and understanding of the process can still lead...
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Enameling History and Revolution

Through the years, a variety of enameling techniques has been developed. Some involve how the metal is prepared and some...
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Channel Setting – Set ‘Em Straight

Over the past decade, channel setting has grown in popularity. Setting small diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and even emeralds into channels...
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Enameling Safety Issues You Should Know About

Enameling involves the firing and melting of suitable glasses onto and into metals for decorative effects. It is done at...
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The Best Jewelry Books: A Comprehensive Reading List For Craftspeople

A selected bibliography list for the jeweler - Metal working, Casting, Plating, Enamelling ,Gem Cutting, Setting, Engraving and Etching, Other...
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Platinum Jewelry Advanced Joining Techniques

Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewelry production. Therefore it is useful to know, what...
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Damascus and Pattern Welding

Damascus and Pattern Welding

True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or...
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Spot Welding Devices for Goldsmiths

Spot Welding Devices for Goldsmiths

Spot welding devices have become quite popular on the market and are indeed now indispensable features in many goldsmith studios...
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How the Bracelet Got its Name

Do you know why that piece of jewelry that goes around your arm is called a bracelet? Or why a...
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Knowing the Difference Between Carat and Karat

Carat, karat, caret, and carrot are all pronounced the same, but each has a different meaning. Carat and karat, of...
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The Costs of Learning Hand Engraving

When you've made the decision to learn hand engraving, you have basically 3 options: Spend little or no money but...
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Hard 22 Carat Gold Alloy

Hard 22 Carat Gold Alloy

The jewellery market is looking for harder high-carat gold alloys that are more resistant to wear and scratching. Current research...
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Gold Jewellery Tarnishing

Tarnishing is superficial corrosion of the carat gold surface and is evident by a usually dark discolouration - the tarnish...
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Introduction to Japanese Alloys

Japanese artists have contributed significantly by using their unique alloys in innovative combinations. Perhaps the best example of this is...
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Enameling Tips: Cause and Effect

Enameling Tips: Cause and Effect

This article is a part of a series offering enameling tips and what is most occurring that enamelists encounter. This...
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Jewelry Workshop Safety Report

This talk briefly reviews issues of studio safety and discusses ways of recognizing risks in the studio and reducing hazard...
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Making Overglaze Enamels

Making Overglaze Enamels

Overglaze enamels, as their name implies, are made to be applied over other enamels. They act much like paints or...
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Gem-Setting Tools: A Practical Guide To All The Hand Tools & Bench Supplies You’ll Need

This article lists the basic tools someone learning stonesetting might want to have around. One would of course add to...
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Goldsmithing: Pitch Options

Pitch is used all over the world by goldsmiths and silversmiths to hold metal in place while working it with...
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Sample Consignment Agreement Contract

The following is Consignment Agreement contract. It is intended for information purposes only although if you wish to use it...
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Welding Aluminum for Successful Anodizing

Welding Aluminum for Successful Anodizing

This article includes descriptions of dangerous activities. These descriptions are not to be deemed instruction, any inference to the contrary...
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Bi-Metal Casting to Titanium

Bi-Metal Casting to Titanium

Titanium and the other refractory metals other the metalsmith a new range of exotic colors - colors that are beautiful...
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Solder Flow Retardant Notes

While goldsmiths normally strive to have their solder flow easily, there are times you don't want it to flow, such...
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Laser Welding Replacing Soldering

When first starting to work with the laser welders, operators should experiment with five or six different alloys commonly used....
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Enameling Tips: Ritual Over Knowledge

Enameling Tips: Ritual Over Knowledge

This article is a part of a series offering enameling tips and what is most occurring that enamelists encounter. This...
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Depletion Gilding Notes

This is an academic paper, not a technical 'how to' guide. Many of the procedures described are unsafe in practice....
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Metals For Enameling

The most commonly used metals for enameling are pure copper and fine silver. The fine silver is primarily used for...
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Investment Procedure for Lost Wax Casting

Clean, fresh investment, water and investment at room temperature, de-ionized or distilled water or water that has been sitting overnight....
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CNC Milling vs. 3D Printing

For someone new to the jewelry industry, the sheer assortment of tools and equipment in the typical workshop can be...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 1

Granulation is the process of fusing tiny metal spheres of silver or gold, in a decorative pattern, to a surface...
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The Ancient Art of Fire Gilding

In the twentieth century there can be little doubt that electroplating is the best way to develop a gold coating...
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Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings

Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings

When I ran a trade shop, time was money, and I often found myself sizing 50 to 60 rings in...
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Lead Bearing and Lead Free Enamels

The question about the differences between lead bearing and lead free enamel is the same as the questions about the...
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Bezel Setting Method

Bezel Setting Method

Bezel setting is one of the most secure methods of setting a gemstone into a mounting, but one of the...
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Gem Identification Machines

Gem Identification Machines

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys

De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys

Sterling silver alloys typically contain about 7.5 percent copper, an addition that not only provides strength to the otherwise pure...
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Notes on Presto-Lite Torch

We use a method for cutting down firescale when using a Presto-Lite Torch along with an acetylene B tank. The...
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The Enamel Material

Enamel comes in a number of forms: lump, string, liquid, and powder, as well as in the optical qualities of...
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Tumbling Technique Hints

When burnishing very detailed pieces, use stainless pins in your mixed shot. Don’t use them any other time because the...
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Reticulation of Shakudo and Shibuichi

Reticulation of Shakudo and Shibuichi

For a number of years I have been exploring the use of the Japanese alloy shakudo in ways other than...
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Working with Platinum & Platinum Designing

My skills as an artist combined with my years of experience at the bench have given me a practical approach...
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Precious Metal Clay

Precious Metal Clay

I’d like to first dispel a myth about Precious Metal Clay. Precious Metal Clay (PMC) is NOT some magical clay...
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Basic Principles for Wet Tumbling on Gold Jewellery

Basic Principles for Wet Tumbling on Gold Jewellery

The correct use of modern, semi- automated finishing processes enables the manufacturer not only to reduce production costs, but also...
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Engraving Machines

Engraving Machines

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Gold and Silver – The Noble Metals

Gold and silver have long been esteemed as the king and queen of metals, for good reason. No other members...
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Causes & Prevention of Defects in Wrought Alloys

Causes & Prevention of Defects in Wrought Alloys

Much of the recent literature on defects that occur in jewellery manufacture is focused on those occurring in lost wax...
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Scoring and Bending

Scoring and bending is one of the most important ways of constructing jewellery. Scoring is a method of obtaining very...
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How to Resize Platinum Rings

This article offers instructions on how to resize platinum rings whether for a size smaller or bigger, as well as,...
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Overglaze Technique

For more than twenty years, I have been using overglazes as a direct painting technique. My canvas usually is a...
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Process of Cleaning Metal Surfaces

For all metal coloring and electroplating a clean metal surface is essential. The cleaning process must remove mineral oils, organic...
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Kiln Questions

First, the 'n' really is silent, at least according to the American Heritage Dictionary. There are kilns as big as...
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Re-tipping Platinum Prongs

Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip...
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Jewellers’ Objective Attitude Towards Designing

It is sometimes useful to have criticism of one's work in order to develop it. While studying as an apprentice...
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Securing Curved Stones for Easy Drilling

Securing Curved Stones for Easy Drilling

Securing curved stones when drilling can be a bit difficult. I use recycled ceramic china, beach pebbles, sea and river...
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Methods of Closing Jump Rings

In high volume production operations, many jump rings need to be closed one after another. For such fast paced operations,...
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CAD/CAM: The Basics

What if you could sit down at your computer, spend a little time manipulating the mouse, keyboard or electronic pencil...
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Learning Metalsmithing Process

An art school is in some ways a difficult place to learn to be a metalsmith. Traditional systems of industry...
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Designing Contemporary Flatware

Designing Contemporary Flatware

No single item is more used yet more neglected than flatware. It is used in one form or another by...
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Laser Welding Sterling Silver

In laser welding of Sterling Silver ' lower silver bearing alloys (coin silver) we have about seven choices in laser...
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Tips for Recovering Precious Metal Particles

Most jewelers know how to handle their precious metal scraps: they separate their scraps by metal, dry out ultrasonic solutions...
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Proper Use of Liquid Metals

Applying liquid gold, palladium and/or silver in the final firing of enamel pieces is something that can frequently raise the...
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A Conversation with Angela Cummings

A Conversation with Angela Cummings

In October of 1983 Angela Cummings announced that she would end a 16-year association with Tiffany & Company in order...
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Anodizing Aluminum

Anodizing Aluminum

While I was in graduate school at San Diego State University I became interested in the anodizing process. I had...
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The Art of Mold Cutting

Mold cutting sounds simple enough: Using a sharp knife and a simple tool, such as a can opener or a...
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Tips for Avoiding Meltdown

Tips for Avoiding Meltdown

Now What? You’ve carved a few waxes or made a piece in metal that you want to mold and have...
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Japanese Special Patinas

The rich history of Japanese patinas is the result of hundreds of years of experimentation, innovation and tradition. This article...
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Sneaky Goldsmith Tricks

The best 'Sneaky Goldsmith Tricks' involve taking mundane, everyday items and repurposing them as goldsmith's tools. Two classic tricks that...
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Metal Spinning Part 3: Tooling

Metal Spinning Part 3: Tooling

As skill develops in spinning, it becomes more important to have a sense of what forms can be produced. To...
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Gold of Africa: Jewellery and Ornaments from Ghana

Gold of Africa: Jewellery and Ornaments from Ghana

Now this is a truly attractive book. One of those coffee table type books dripping with gorgeous National Geographic quality...
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Creating Equal Divisions in Stone Setting

Creating Equal Divisions in Stone Setting

Below are steps for an easy way to create equal divisions in setting stones that jewelers need to know. Dividing...
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Safety Notes for Jewelers on Pitch, Chasing and Repousse

An ancient system of working metals, this procedure uses steel punches to manipulate the metal while it is fixed onto...
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Manufacturing Jewelry in Platinum Some Basic Facts

Manufacturing Jewelry in Platinum Some Basic Facts

Properties of platinum Platinum ore To get one ounze of pure platinum you have to process 11 tons of ore....
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Practical Course in Goldsmithing

Practical Course in Goldsmithing

A micro-waterjet device can be used to achieve fine matt finishes on precious metal surfaces. Parts required for this are:...
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Repairing Broken Chains

The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires...
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Palladium Q&As

Its no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use...
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Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths

Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths

Looking down the long corridors of time, the ancient Etruscans emerge as a powerful people whose economic and social development...
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Setting Gemstone on Precious Metal Clay

PMC is not a traditional material, and so a few pioneers went about tentatively setting cubic zirconia's, and lab grown...
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Preparing 3D Acrylic Photopolymer Patterns

Preparing 3D Acrylic Photopolymer Patterns

Editors Note: This article is excerpted from “A New Method for Preparing 3D Acrylic Photopolymer Patterns for Investment Casting,” a...
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Plique-a-Jour Russian Soldering Method

There are a number of methods for plique a jour, a filigree technique that allows light to shine through the...
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Touchstone Method for Testing Karat Gold Purity

There are a few scientific methods for precisely determining karat gold purity, some destructive (fire assay) and others nondestructive (X-ray...
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The Enamelwork of Jamie Bennett

The Enamelwork of Jamie Bennett

It is a rare and most welcome event when a technical innovation is accompanied by an esthetic revelation. This is...
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Multi-Metal Lamination

Multi-metal Lamination is a type of 'faux' married metal which produces a freer, more 'painterly' effect than the hard-edge, highly...
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Single File

Single File

A step-by-step guide to single-row pavé settings   Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set...
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High-Tech for Goldsmith Studios

High-Tech for Goldsmith Studios

State-of-the-art technology and innovative methods are the pacemakers for high-performance and effective work in a crafts trade. Jewelers and goldsmiths...
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Ashante Casting

Ashante Casting

In 1965, while visiting near Kumasi in Ghana, Max Frohlich first saw the process of Ashante casting. At the time...
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The Effects of Global Warming on Pearl Oysters

Warming waters, changes in weather patterns, and increases in storm activity may all affect the future success of pearl farms,...
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Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree

Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree

Victoria Lansford on the art of filigree—Russian or otherwise BOX: The Art of Handcraft Every jewelry designer can pinpoint the...
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Colorit: Tips for Beautiful Color Details

Colorit: Tips for Beautiful Color Details

The exceptional colors of the Colorit range manufactured by Inovis in Schaan, Liechtenstein has enabled innovative goldsmiths to explore new...
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Profitable Jewelry Design and Repair

A few years ago, Jewelers Circular Magazine reported that over 75% of all retail jewelers in America lose money on...
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Platinum Finishing/Polishing Process

Opinions differ considerably when discussing the ease or difficulty of polishing platinum, but most agree that when a piece is...
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Enameling Tips: Enamel Suppositions

Enameling Tips: Enamel Suppositions

This article is a part of a series offering enameling tips and what is most occurring that enamelists encounter. This...
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Rendering Design and Process

Rendering Design and Process

This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal...
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Ornamental Chasing and Repousse

Working on the front of the piece only is called chasing. Repousse is the combination of tracing the design on...
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Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire

Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire - looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22...
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Enameling Care and Considerations

Enameling Care and Considerations

The primary reason designer Amy Roper Lyons of Summit, New Jersey, began working in enamels is fairly black and white:...
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Testing the New HD Patterns

Invented by Victor Joyner, a Chicagobased manufacturing jeweler, patented High Definition (HD) Patterns are made of a light-curing polymer material...
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The PUK: Generation 3

The PUK: Generation 3

The PUK® fine welding devices have established themselves in the goldsmith studios and in the jewelry manufacturers in over 50...
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Photoetching for the Studio Jeweler

Photoetching for the Studio Jeweler

In photoetching a photo transparency defines the area of a metal plate to be etched. The transparency is the control...
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Full eBook: The Jewelry Maker

Full eBook.48 Pages: Jewelry and metalsmithing are hard work, and also very rewarding. There is great pleasure in creating with...
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Roll Printing Technique

Roll Printing Technique

Roll printing, or texture transfer, has been around a long time. The ancient Greeks and Romans used various dies and,...
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Low Cost Electric Grinding Machine

Low Cost Electric Grinding Machine

Enamel surfaces can be ground more quickly and efficiently with an electric grinding machine than by hand. Because professional grinding...
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Application of Hot Smithing Process to Non-Ferrous Metals

Application of Hot Smithing Process to Non-Ferrous Metals

The motivation for undertaking this research was to establish a more expedient process to achieve volumetric forms in non-ferreous metals....
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Tips for Working With Drill Bits

Tips for Working With Drill Bits

Tips for working with drill bits In previous columns, I’ve explored the everyday activity of drilling, touching on drilling boards...
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Fit to be Sized

Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see...
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Practical Wax Modeling Techniques

Practical Wax Modeling Techniques

To begin with I highly recommend this book of technical information and procedures for anyone wanting to learn wax modelling...
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Useful Bench Tools

Useful Bench Tools

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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De-Enameling and Other Myths

De-Enameling and Other Myths

Up until quite recently if asked "How do you remove enamel from silver?" the answer was "with great difficulty." The...
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Precious Metal Alloys Part 1

Precious Metal Alloys Part 1

In the Middle Ages, alchemy meant the art of fathoming natural substances in an experimental manner. The goal of the...
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Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith

Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith

From 1988 to 1989, German goldsmith Hermann Jünger was celebrated in his native country with a major retrospective of his...
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Production Project Proposal

This is an example of a production project proposal involving the reproduction of two historically important buttons. This shows how...
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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

Master Metalsmith Alan Adler

I first discovered Allan Adler's Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my...
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Heat-Induced Web Textures on Anodized Aluminum

Heat-Induced Web Textures on Anodized Aluminum

In late 1981, I began working with anodized aluminum, drawn to its light weight, availability and low cost. In developing...
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Fabricating a Crown to Fit a Stone

Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the...
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The Art of Doublée Making

The Art of Doublée Making

Historically, a wide range of techniques has been used to clad or coat silver or base metals with gold. These...
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Organize Your Bench

The next time you sit down at your bench, don't think of it as just a bench. Think of it...
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Platinum Fabricating & Stamping

This paper is aimed mainly at the small- to medium-sized jewelry manufacturing operations interested in working with platinum group metals....
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Translating Line Art into 3D Models in Matrix

Translating Line Art into 3D Models in Matrix

Line art, such as logos, family crests, text or numbers, cartoon characters, and even sketches can be quickly and easily...
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Casting Tools and Products

Casting Tools and Products

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Perfect Finishing Tools and Techniques

Our castings can be flawless, our assembly precise, and our settings secure -- but let any surface go a bit...
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How to Work Enamel Hot

How to Work Enamel Hot

Photo 1: Apply a coat of enamel on a piece of domed copper and fire. Photo 2. A sheet of...
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North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, etc.

This page offers a list of some useful North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, information, etc that would be very...
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CAD/CAM Designer Tools

CAD/CAM Designer Tools

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire

How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire

Working with silver jewelry wire is an essential skill for most jewelers. Learn the meaning of terms such as gauge,...
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Finishing Machines

Finishing Machines

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Transparency Making for Photoetching

Transparency Making for Photoetching

This article, "Transparency Making for Photoetching",  is the first of two parts written by Allan Liu and Carol Webb. Check...
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Stone Setting Tips

Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on...
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Laser Technology

Laser Technology

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Precious Metal Clay 101

There are two brands of metal clay available today; Precious Metal Clay and Art Clay Silver. There are a lot...
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Aluminum & Aluminum Anodizing

Aluminum & Aluminum Anodizing

This article is based on technical information taken from my personal notes and experiences, shared information from the Penland Anodizing...
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Enamel Coloring Techniques

Enamel Coloring Techniques

On the difficulties with handling enamel: Enamel is one of the most durable methods of confining colors to a background....
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Contemporary Japanese Jewellery

Contemporary Japanese Jewellery

Contemporary Japanese Jewellery, In order to introduce largely unknown contemporary Japanese jewelry to the West, British jeweler Simon Fraser, working...
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Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 2

Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 2

I’m hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the...
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Using Non-Jeweler’s Tools For Fabrication: How To Repurpose Painting Blades For Bezels

Using Non-Jeweler’s Tools For Fabrication: How To Repurpose Painting Blades For Bezels

Helen I. Driggs demonstrates how some non-jewelers tools give fabrication a new twist. My background is in graphic design, so...
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Plique-a-Jour Pictorial

Plique-a-Jour Pictorial

This article Amy Roper Lyons offers two things: a Plique-a-Jour pictorial and three safety tips when handling or working with...
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Patination for Small Scale Studio Use

Patination for Small Scale Studio Use

In recent years there has been an increased interest in patination and metal coloring. This may be seen as a...
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Eliminating Ash Residue Defects

Eliminating Ash Residue Defects

The casting department at Stuller Inc. in Lafayette, Louisiana, has been experimenting with casting photopolymer models, and it has found...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 2

In my last article I wrote about the various adjustable parameters, and the effects of changing those parameters. In this...
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Book Review – The Art of Jewelry Design

Book Review – The Art of Jewelry Design

Do you like sumptuous drawings and colored renderings of gemstones and fine jewelry? Interested in basic design principles for commercial...
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Bezel Setting Using a Lathe

Bezel Setting Using a Lathe

Bezel setting the center sapphire is normally pretty straight-forward, but I would like to share a few tricks that have...
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Equipment Maintenance Guidelines

  You pride yourself on your pristine shop. Your equipment is laid out for maximum efficiency, your tools are stored...
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The Enamelist’s Vocabulary

Each medium has its own vocabulary and so it is with enamels and enameling. The glass glaze material that is...
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How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames

How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames

For the illusion of "floating objects" Helen I. Driggs shares her technique, a step by step guide, on how to...
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A New Method for Gilding Silver

A New Method for Gilding Silver

A New Method for Gilding Silver A variety of methods for gilding silver surfaces have been used in the past....
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How to Make a Frame for Enamel Pieces

How to Make a Frame for Enamel Pieces

How to Make a Frame for Enamel Pieces The instruction below is addressed to people who have little experience in...
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Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay

Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay

The use of area inlay, called damascening or woven inlay, is common in the ancient metalwork of Iran, India, Japan,...
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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity

Richard Reinhardt's best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in...
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Laser Forming: Silversmithing Potential

Laser Forming: Silversmithing Potential

Laser forming is an emerging rapid prototyping (RP) technique that has undergone research worldwide since the mid 1980s. It is...
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Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth

Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth

Last fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee hosted a retrospective of the work of Helen Shirk. Nearly...
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Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel

Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel

For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald...
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Meditation on Metallurgy

Meditation on Metallurgy Not everything is metal, but metal is everywhere. Metal is the conductor of all matter….And thought is...
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The Enamelwork of Bill Helwig

The Enamelwork of Bill Helwig

When enamelist Bill Helwig celebrated the half-century mark in July of 1988, his wife Lenore Davis, asked the celebrants to...
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The Art of Tool Making

There are two properties which distinguish a good tool from a bad one. The tool must have the correct shape...
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Platinum Casting with Gemstones

Platinum casting with gemstones in place has been the latest development before the end of the second millennium. It has...
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Creating Beading Pliers Accessory Bezel Settings

Creating Beading Pliers Accessory Bezel Settings

Sometimes, holding on to really little parts is the greatest challenge of my day. I use tiny cabochons almost daily...
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Technical Briefs: Dealing with Firescale

Technical Briefs: Dealing with Firescale

Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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Precision Fine Casting

Precision Fine Casting

Workshops now have to incorporate a lot of technology, ranging from lost wax casting through to modern working processes within...
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Practical Approach to CAD/CAM

Once more the realm of engineers and number-crunchers, CAD over the years has become more user-friendly and artisan-intuitive. Similarly, small-shop,...
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Metalwork in the 20th Century

Metalwork in the 20th Century

Metalwork in the 20th Century When curator J. Stewart Johnson of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York decided...
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Craftsmanship Improvement Method

This is a method to reduce technical problems which one repeatedly experienes. We all find during the learning process that...
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Precious Metal Alloys Part 3

Precious Metal Alloys Part 3

The hardening of gold and silver is now easier than ever before thanks to increased experience in the heat treatment...
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How to Make Sharp Corner Cuts

Sawing is an essential skill for a bench jeweler. This article will show you a technique that will increase your...
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Robert Lee Morris: The End of an Era

Robert Lee Morris: The End of an Era Seventeen years ago Robert Lee Morris opened Artwear in the Soho section...
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One-Piece Die Cutting

One-Piece Die Cutting

One-Piece Die Cutting The Society of North American Goldsmiths, its staff, directors, officers and members, and Metalsmith magazine specifically disclaim...
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Precious Metal Refining

The principle of this ancient, valued procedure is described here because of its historical interest, and with the thought that...
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Safer Pickle Alternative

Procrastination can sometimes lead to wonderful discoveries. Tom Arnold, owner of Facets Fine Jewelry in Arlington, Virginia, found this out...
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Fauré Studio Enamel Techniques

Fauré Studio Enamel Techniques

One of the many workshops presented at the 10th Biennial Enamelist Society Conference was The Fauré Studio Enamel Techniques, instructed...
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The Metal Shop Tin Men

The Metal Shop Tin Men

Metal shop tin men seem to be as American as L. Frank Baum's tale of Dorothy and company in the...
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Dirk Van Erp: Arts & Crafts Coppersmith

Dirk Van Erp: Arts & Crafts Coppersmith

Due to a recent comprehensive exhibition at the San Francisco Craft & Folk Art Museum, we reintroduce to our readers...
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The Benefits of Multiple Cell Electrolysis Technology

The Benefits of Multiple Cell Electrolysis Technology

Every goldsmith needs a precise, energy rich gas flame at his workplace. Compressed gas cylinders offer one opportunity for this....
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Using Acid Bath on Used Tools

Bench jewelers hate to throw out used tools. By training and by nature we try to conserve the materials we...
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Enamel is Glass — But, What is Glass?

In the beginning, there was glass. Glass was created or formed along with our planet Earth. Glass was here —...
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Transferring Cartoon

Transferring Cartoon

In Vol. 4, No. 4, August, 1985 issue of Glass on Metal we published an article titled "Ways to Achieve...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 2

Granulation involves placing and fusing tiny balls of silver on the surface of the backsheet in a preplanned design. The...
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Enamelists Make Plique-a-Jour Souvenirs

Enamelists Make Plique-a-Jour Souvenirs

In the gay nineties, one hundred years ago and more now, the newly rich were off to see the world....
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Pumice Finishing and Brass Wire Brushing

Pumice Finishing and Brass Wire Brushing

The first time I saw a machine for pumice finishing and brass wire brushing was at the School for American...
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Resolving Surface Irregularities in T-Splines

Resolving Surface Irregularities in T-Splines

T-splines, a plug-in for Rhinoceros CAD software and bundled with Matrix 7 and above, is a great modeling tool for...
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Ossa-Sepia Casting

Ossa-Sepia Casting

Ossa-Sepia casting is a ‘lost form of casting’ as the moulds can only be used one time. This makes each...
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CAD Repair Programs for Unprintable Files

CAD Repair Programs for Unprintable Files

Using CAD repair programs to save unprintable files You spend hours creating a custom piece in CAD for one of...
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Kenneth Bates: Dean of American Enameling

Kenneth Bates: Dean of American Enameling

When I asked him who Kenneth Bates is, he laughed and replied "a simple dirt farmer from New England." However,...
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Kinds of Alloys

Kinds of Alloys

This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 4

Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 4

I'm hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the...
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Perfect Technique and Innovative Products

Perfect Technique and Innovative Products

To keep up with the competition, goldsmiths and jewelers are increasingly being required to keep up-to-date with the latest technological...
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Harold Hasselschwert: Materialization of the Exotic

Harold Hasselschwert: Materialization of the Exotic

Possibly of another time and almost certainly of another place, Hal or Harold Hasselschwert enamels entice the imagination with the...
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English Painted Enamels

English Painted Enamels

English enamels, in the genre also widely classed as Battersea work [after the initial place of their manufacture] were profusely...
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Goldsmith Jewelry Finishing Trick

Every bench jeweler has experienced the frustration of trying to sand and polish a nearly inaccessible area on a piece...
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Book Review – Lapidary Carving for Creative Jewelry

Book Review – Lapidary Carving for Creative Jewelry

This book is an expert and concise introduction to the world of carving gem materials. You could actually do it...
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Designing PMC Pieces for Enamel

Designing PMC Pieces for Enamel

Precious Metal Clay, being fine silver and high karat gold, is the perfect material to accept enamel. It is possible...
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Tackling Chain and Finding Repair

Tackling Chain and Finding Repair

Ask most jewelers about repairing a chain or finding and they’re likely to offer you their best Charlie Brown impression:...
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Blacksmith Enameling

Blacksmith Enameling

February 21 - 22, 2004 was another high point in our enameling career. Irmgard and I travelled to the John...
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Flat Topped Solitaire Setting

Flat Topped Solitaire Setting

The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard...
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Patinating Brass Alloys Using Contact Plating

This procedure should be undertaken with appropriate precautions; goggles, gloves, protective clothing, adequate ventilation. Recently I have been presented with...
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New Technologies Make Us Fit for the Future

New Technologies Make Us Fit for the Future

In difficult times, it is important to invest in modern methods, machines and tools. Jewelry and watch makers can assert...
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Special Repair Work

It is not uncommon for moving parts to wear out. This is to be expected because of increased friction as...
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Application of Enamel En Plein

Application of Enamel En Plein

Application of Enamel En Plein In my 30 years of enameling and creating objects of art and jewelry, I have...
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Book Review – Bernhard Schobinger – Jewels Now!

Book Review – Bernhard Schobinger – Jewels Now!

Bernhard Schobinger, one of Europes most provocative and influential jewel artists, is the subject of this handsome monograph, originally produced...
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Suggested Tools from Karl Fischer

Ask for a catalog with an English supplement. Order by surface if a heavy order as shipping from Germany is...
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Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant

Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant

I received this opal from a woman who had cut it years ago. Her customer was aware it had a...
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Full eBook: Practical Jewelry Rendering

Full eBook: Practical Jewelry Rendering

This practical tool-in-a-book combines instruction on rendering techniques with unique guides that assist designers as they conceive jewelry and other...
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Rules for Tools

While it is clearly impossible to give a set of rules for each tool and procedure that goldsmiths use, this...
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Methods for Applying Patination Solutions

Extremely clean metal surfaces give better results. See the article on Cleaning metal Surfaces for more information on cleaning.
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Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression

Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression

Creativity is problem-solving, a skill based on the conscious and/or unconscious recombination and juxtaposition of information derived from diverse sources...
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Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade

Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade

The word "technology" is defined as the totality of the means employed to provide the objects necessary for sustenance and...
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Layering Over Sgraffitoed Liquid

I make light switch covers that are site-specific functional fine art and sculptural vessels that are not at all functional....
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Handling Stakes and Anvils

Shaping a bezel on stakes is a process of forming the metal by stretching. First the metal is bent with...
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Etymology of Enamel

Most people in our discipline use the word Enamel to identify both the glass which is fused to metal, and...
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Soldering Demystified: Debunking a Soldering Myth

Soldering Demystified: Debunking a Soldering Myth

Debunking a soldering myth There are many myths about heating pieces during soldering that can cause innumerable problems during relatively...
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Jewelry Making Bench Tips

Jeremy Pavlow shares his common jewelry making bench tips by taking advantage of other tools and materials not normally used...
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The Artists as Curators and Critics

Fortunately, change is inevitable. Even for those individuals in the art establishment who assert that artists cannot and should not...
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The Trouble with Pyrite

The first reference that I have that links copperas with the collection of fossils is found in the 'Life and...
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The New MJSA/WGC White Gold Color Index

Have you ever noticed how white gold varies in color? Many folks think white gold is the same color as...
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Discussion on Refiner Methods

Discussion on Refiner Methods

Shawna Kulpa takes a look into the assaying methods refiners use to determine the value of a lot. This article...
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Chromatec: Producing Photographic Images on Refractory Metals

Chromatec: Producing Photographic Images on Refractory Metals

In response to Marilyn Shaw's article "Photographic Images on Refractory Metals" (Metalsmith, Summer '84, page 32), we have researched the...
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Photographic Images on Refractory Metals

Photographic Images on Refractory Metals

The following article explains photo techniques used to transfer images onto refractory metals. These findings were developed during my graduate...
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Waste Not, Want Not

Waste Not, Want Not

When it comes to recovering precious metal, nothing is worthless. However, if you walk into many repair shops you will...
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Champlevé Enameling

Champlevé Enameling

Background My formal education includes a Bachelors Degree in Chemical Engineering and a Masters Degree in Mechanical Engineering. My interest...
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The Enamelware of Alan Mudd

The Enamelware of Alan Mudd

The English enameller, Alan Mudd, born in Lancashire, began his studies in the fine arts, and served an indentured apprenticeship...
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James Evans Jewelry & Small Objects

James Evans Jewelry & Small Objects

This article is a review on the Jewelry & Small Objects Exhibition by James Evans held at the Prime Canadian...
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Book Review – Modeling in Wax for Jewelry and Sculpture

My first reaction when I heard about this book was, "It's about time." Think of it: If you tried to...
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Basic Approach to Product Design

Design is a perennial issue for all who produce objects meant for a specific use, utilitarian, in contrast to objects...
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Technical Briefs: Fire Stain on Brass

Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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Novorit: Colorful Imagery

Novorit: Colorful Imagery

The Novorit polyceramics system has been on the market for a year and offers fascinating possibilities for the creative color...
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Gary Griffith’s Jewelry and Constructions