Jewelry Making
Every aspect of jewelry making and every imaginable technique.
HomeJewelry Making
How to Make a Filigree Bail
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein shows you how to make a filigree-style bail for a pendant. Adding a...
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How to Make Powder Solder for Filigree
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein shows you how to make and use powdered solder. Powdered solder plays an...
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How to Set, Polish, and Finish a Bezel Set Ring
In this tutorial, Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy shows you how to bezel set a stone and then polish and...
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How to Make a Round Silver Ring Video
Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy, a bench jeweler out of Massachusetts, leads you through the basics of making a round...
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Filing, Sanding, and Buffing: Hand Finishing
Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman offer tips, tricks, and various techniques to finish your project by hand. You...
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How to Resize a Ring
Sizing a ring is one of the most requested repairs a jeweler will see. Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois teaches you...
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Working with Precious Metals: Silver
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to create a silver band. Working with silver is a...
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Tube Setting With Filigree Applications
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein demonstrates the tube setting technique. Tube-set gemstones are a simple way to enhance...
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How to Make Basic Filigree Shapes
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein demonstrates how to construct several simple shapes that come together like building blocks...
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How to Make Filigree Wire
Filigree wire is made from twisted and flattened pairs of wire and used to create decorative shapes. In this video,...
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How to Make Threader Earrings
Composed of a post, chain, and a dangle element, a threader earring threads a chain through the earlobe. Ganoksin instructor...
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Troubleshooting Soldering
This troubleshooting tutorial from Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman highlights some common soldering problems and their solutions. Pattie...
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How to Repair a Thin Ring Shank
Fixing a worn thin shank is an essential repair for rings. Learn how to re-shank a worn or split shank...
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How to Polish Stones, Gems, and Diamonds the Right Way
How do you clean your jewellery? Doing it yourself isn’t the answer. Nor is using improper tools or techniques that...
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How to Create a Butt Joint
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois demonstrates two methods to solder a butt joint, which involves joining metal pieces...
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Making and Setting a Basket Setting
In this video, Ganoksin’s Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to make and set a 4-prong basket setting. This common open-wire design...
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Working with Precious Metals: Platinum
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to create a platinum band. Although working with platinum may...
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How to Make Open Huggie Hoop Earrings
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to make these super-cute open huggie hoop earrings. This versatile...
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Introduction to Soldering
Learn the basics of soldering from Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman. They walk you through the fundamentals like...
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Soldering Techniques from Beginner to Advanced
This tutorial from Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman features various soldering methods that you can implement to improve...
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How to Make Sizing Beads to Size a Ring Down
Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to make sizing beads - a perfect solution for difficult to size rings. Mechelle goes over...
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Installing a Peg Head With Split Prongs
In this video, Ganoksin's Mechelle Lois shows you how to install peg head and split prong settings on a band....
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How to Sweat Solder
Sweat soldering is a technique that joins flat metal pieces by flowing solder on each piece and then reflowing the...
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Frame Basics and Soldering with Paste
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein covers the assembly of filigree frames and demonstrates the soldering technique for both...
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How to Make and Set a Cabochon Bezel
A bezel is the oldest and easiest type of cabochon setting. It’s an essential jewelry-making skill and a great way...
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How to Repair a Bezel Using a Jump Ring
You can restore a thinning bezel in several ways. In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to...
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How to Repair an Ear Wire
Earrings that dangle or have movement to them are often made with an ear wire. This is the portion of...
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How to Make a Picture Frame Pendant
Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy teaches you how to make a sterling silver picture frame pendant in this video. Follow...
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Filing, Sanding and Buffing: Using Flex Shaft Machine
The flex shaft machine is one of the most common tools at a jeweler's bench. Watch Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst...
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How to Finish a Chain End
Whether you want to finish a chain you bought by the foot or repair a clasp or jump ring on...
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How to Repair a Chain
Next to ring sizing, chain repairs are the most common jewelry repair you'll see because chains are worn regularly and...
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How to String Pearls
Pearl stringing is a high-demand repair, so it's a great skill to have in your pocket. You can also apply...
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Foldforming Overview and Techniques
Master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain invented foldforming and demonstrates the technique in this video. Foldforming is a system of metalworking that...
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Step by Step Guide to Single Row Pave Settings
Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set into a narrow strip of metal, is a...
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How to Create a Shared Prong Setting
In this video, Ganoksin’s Mechelle Lois demonstrates setting a shared prong on an anniversary band. This popular setting, common in...
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How to Channel Set
In this instructional video, Ganoksin’s Mechelle Lois demonstrates the double undercut technique for channel setting stones. Watch as Mechelle guides...
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Finishing Your Filigree Pieces
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein demonstrates the final finishing steps for your filigree creations. Follow along with Milt...
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How to Make and Set Bezel for a Faceted Stone
In this video tutorial, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to hand-fabricate a bezel for a faceted stone. Mechelle provides...
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How to Install a Figure 8 Catch
A figure 8 safety clasp is added to the box clasp of a link or bangle bracelet as a backup...
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How to Repair a Bezel by Patching
Over time, bezels can wear thin, increasing the risk of the stone breaking or coming loose. There are multiple ways...
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How to Add a Safety Chain to a Bracelet
Safety chains are necessary additions to any high-value bracelets for additional security. They prevent bracelets from falling off when a...
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How to Repair an Earring Post
Earrings with a post can break or bend from too much wear. Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois walks you through the...
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How to Repair a Channel on a Channel Set Ring
When a channel set ring needs repair, it's almost always because the channel has worn down over time. This creates...
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Apply Your Skills – 4 Beginner Metalsmithing Projects
Take what you have learned from our other soldering videos and watch Ganoksin instructors Pattie Parkhurst and Richard Sweetman work...
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How to Resize a Ring With a Stone
In part 2 of this series, instructor Mechelle Lois teaches you how to re-size a ring with a stone. Sizing...
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Introduction to Sawing & Piercing
Sawing and piercing metal using a jeweler's saw is a fundamental skill for any bench jeweler. Join Ganoksin instructors Pattie...
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How to Bezel Set Fancy Cut Soft Stones
The one request that makes a jeweler's blood pressure rise is when they are asked to bezel set a fancy...
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How to Make Snake Stud Earrings
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to make snake stud earrings. Snakes are a compelling and...
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How to Repair a Cuff Bracelet
Cuff bracelets are squeezed on the wrist for a custom fit every time they're worn. These constant adjustments weaken the...
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How to Flush Set a Faceted Stone
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to flush set round, faceted stones into a plain ring band....
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Paste Solder and Torch Basics
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Milt Fischbein focuses on the fundamentals of using paste solder, a versatile and convenient form...
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How to Make a Paper Clip Bracelet
Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy shows you how to make a paper clip bracelet from sterling silver wire. These oval-link...
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How to Solder a Bezel Cup to a Ring Band
Watch as Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy takes you through the steps of soldering a bezel cup to a ring...
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How to Make a Bezel Cup Video
Learn how to make a bezel cup with Ganoksin instructor Kelly Jean Conroy. In this video, she'll give you step-by-step...
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How to Solder Two Rings Together
Mechelle Lois demonstrates how to solder two rings together. By soldering the base of the bands together, the rings will...
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How to Repair a Prong
Repairing a prong is one of the most requested repairs for a jeweler. In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois...
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How to Install a Clasp
When the spring inside a clasp wears out, you'll need to install a new clasp. In this video, Ganoksin instructor...
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Tube Setting a Faceted Stone
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to bezel set a faceted stone in tubing. Tube setting...
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Working with Precious Metals: Gold
In this video, Ganoksin instructor Mechelle Lois shows you how to create bands from 14K yellow, white, and rose gold,...
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Wax Casting Burnout Cycles
If you are experiencing rough surfaces, discolored metal or no-fills, the problem may be in the burnout. When casting, the...
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How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain
I took in a broken hollow rope chain bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet had caught on a desk...
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The Best Flux For Soldering Jewelry: How To Choose The Right One For Your Project
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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How to Create a Basic Link Chain
Making a simple or basic link chain to display your pendant designs is a great way to add further value...
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Electroplating Jewellery
Electroplating is a method to put a metal coating onto an object, in our case a piece of jewellery, by...
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Tips & Techniques for Popular Finishing Touches
We asked a number of top jewelers to tell us their best practices, techniques, and tips for creating satin, brushed,...
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Keum-Boo Technique
This Korean technique for applying 24k gold to silver is in fact widely used in various cultures; Japanese, Chinese and...
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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword
Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as...
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Success in Polishing Platinum
Platinum takes more effort to polish, for the simple reason that it does not wear as other precious metals do...
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Platinum Alloys – Features & Benefits
In this presentation I attempted to provide you with information on platinum alloys to help you make an informed decision...
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Understanding the Working Titanium
Because titanium behaves somewhat differently than the standard metals in the goldsmith's workshop some special attention to its working is...
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Cloisonne Primer – History of Cloisonne Technique
In the late 20s, a small enamel tray, made in China, introduced us to the word cloisonne. The material looked...
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Casting Notes for Silver Lost Wax Casting
Casting of silver can be fairly easy and these notes are the results of my experience through trial and error...
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Sand Casting Safety Notes
Sand casting is used extensively for large-scale casting, such as engine blocks, and the grates that one sees around trees...
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Guide to Fishtail Settings
One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off...
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Metal Salt Etching, Resists and Resist Removal
Metalsmiths and enamelists have used ferric chloride for several years as a safer alternative to nitric acid for copper and...
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Using Liver of Sulfur
This is a mixture of potassium sulfides which has traditionally been used to darken or 'antique' silver and bronzes. This...
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Pickling Notes
Jewelers treat soldered objects with dilute acid solutions to remove oxides produced from heating and soldering as well as glassy...
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Iridescent Patina Recipe
This is the basic recipe for the iridescent patina. This patina is most effective on highly textured pieces, such as...
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Patina Formulas
The surface of metals may be colored, a patina added either chemically or with heat. Patinas are generally achieved by...
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Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith
Hydraulic die forming is a process which hasn't received a lot of press. Perhaps its usefulness seems limited to mass...
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Step by Step Guide to Fishtail Settings
One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off...
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Jewellery Career Options
One of the most interesting things about the jewellery/metals field is that there are so many career options, so many...
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Patination Safety Considerations
Jewelers use so-called -oxidising- solutions to darken metals like silver, copper, brass, nickel silver, bronze and, with specialized mixtures, on...
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Platinum Durability vs Scratching
There is a major difference between durability and scratch resistance. Platinum is very durable. When scratched, the scratch actually displaces...
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Casting Investment Materials and Applications
The casting investment process enjoys wide popularity in the production of commercial and one-of-a-kind art metal objects. However, production practice...
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Anticlastic Forming Techniques
Transforming a flat piece of metal into a flowing form, free from constraints, wild, dynamic and strong. This is the...
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Understanding the Process of Platinum Casting
Platinum casting is different from gold or silver casting, and insufficient preparation and understanding of the process can still lead...
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Enameling History and Revolution
Through the years, a variety of enameling techniques has been developed. Some involve how the metal is prepared and some...
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Channel Setting – Set ‘Em Straight
Over the past decade, channel setting has grown in popularity. Setting small diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and even emeralds into channels...
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Enameling Safety Issues You Should Know About
Enameling involves the firing and melting of suitable glasses onto and into metals for decorative effects. It is done at...
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The Best Jewelry Books: A Comprehensive Reading List For Craftspeople
A selected bibliography list for the jeweler - Metal working, Casting, Plating, Enamelling ,Gem Cutting, Setting, Engraving and Etching, Other...
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Platinum Jewelry Advanced Joining Techniques
Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewelry production. Therefore it is useful to know, what...
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Damascus and Pattern Welding
True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or...
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Spot Welding Devices for Goldsmiths
Spot welding devices have become quite popular on the market and are indeed now indispensable features in many goldsmith studios...
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How the Bracelet Got its Name
Do you know why that piece of jewelry that goes around your arm is called a bracelet? Or why a...
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Knowing the Difference Between Carat and Karat
Carat, karat, caret, and carrot are all pronounced the same, but each has a different meaning. Carat and karat, of...
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The Costs of Learning Hand Engraving
When you've made the decision to learn hand engraving, you have basically 3 options: Spend little or no money but...
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Hard 22 Carat Gold Alloy
The jewellery market is looking for harder high-carat gold alloys that are more resistant to wear and scratching. Current research...
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Gold Jewellery Tarnishing
Tarnishing is superficial corrosion of the carat gold surface and is evident by a usually dark discolouration - the tarnish...
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Introduction to Japanese Alloys
Japanese artists have contributed significantly by using their unique alloys in innovative combinations. Perhaps the best example of this is...
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Enameling Tips: Cause and Effect
This article is a part of a series offering enameling tips and what is most occurring that enamelists encounter. This...
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Jewelry Workshop Safety Report
This talk briefly reviews issues of studio safety and discusses ways of recognizing risks in the studio and reducing hazard...
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Making Overglaze Enamels
Overglaze enamels, as their name implies, are made to be applied over other enamels. They act much like paints or...
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Gem-Setting Tools: A Practical Guide To All The Hand Tools & Bench Supplies You’ll Need
This article lists the basic tools someone learning stonesetting might want to have around. One would of course add to...
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Goldsmithing: Pitch Options
Pitch is used all over the world by goldsmiths and silversmiths to hold metal in place while working it with...
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Sample Consignment Agreement Contract
The following is Consignment Agreement contract. It is intended for information purposes only although if you wish to use it...
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Welding Aluminum for Successful Anodizing
This article includes descriptions of dangerous activities. These descriptions are not to be deemed instruction, any inference to the contrary...
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Bi-Metal Casting to Titanium
Titanium and the other refractory metals other the metalsmith a new range of exotic colors - colors that are beautiful...
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Solder Flow Retardant Notes
While goldsmiths normally strive to have their solder flow easily, there are times you don't want it to flow, such...
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Laser Welding Replacing Soldering
When first starting to work with the laser welders, operators should experiment with five or six different alloys commonly used....
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Enameling Tips: Ritual Over Knowledge
This article is a part of a series offering enameling tips and what is most occurring that enamelists encounter. This...
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Depletion Gilding Notes
This is an academic paper, not a technical 'how to' guide. Many of the procedures described are unsafe in practice....
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Metals For Enameling
The most commonly used metals for enameling are pure copper and fine silver. The fine silver is primarily used for...
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Investment Procedure for Lost Wax Casting
Clean, fresh investment, water and investment at room temperature, de-ionized or distilled water or water that has been sitting overnight....
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CNC Milling vs. 3D Printing
For someone new to the jewelry industry, the sheer assortment of tools and equipment in the typical workshop can be...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 1
Granulation is the process of fusing tiny metal spheres of silver or gold, in a decorative pattern, to a surface...
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The Ancient Art of Fire Gilding
In the twentieth century there can be little doubt that electroplating is the best way to develop a gold coating...
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Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings
When I ran a trade shop, time was money, and I often found myself sizing 50 to 60 rings in...
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Lead Bearing and Lead Free Enamels
The question about the differences between lead bearing and lead free enamel is the same as the questions about the...
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Bezel Setting Method
Bezel setting is one of the most secure methods of setting a gemstone into a mounting, but one of the...
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Gem Identification Machines
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys
Sterling silver alloys typically contain about 7.5 percent copper, an addition that not only provides strength to the otherwise pure...
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Notes on Presto-Lite Torch
We use a method for cutting down firescale when using a Presto-Lite Torch along with an acetylene B tank. The...
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The Enamel Material
Enamel comes in a number of forms: lump, string, liquid, and powder, as well as in the optical qualities of...
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Tumbling Technique Hints
When burnishing very detailed pieces, use stainless pins in your mixed shot. Don’t use them any other time because the...
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Reticulation of Shakudo and Shibuichi
For a number of years I have been exploring the use of the Japanese alloy shakudo in ways other than...
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Working with Platinum & Platinum Designing
My skills as an artist combined with my years of experience at the bench have given me a practical approach...
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Precious Metal Clay
I’d like to first dispel a myth about Precious Metal Clay. Precious Metal Clay (PMC) is NOT some magical clay...
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Basic Principles for Wet Tumbling on Gold Jewellery
The correct use of modern, semi- automated finishing processes enables the manufacturer not only to reduce production costs, but also...
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Engraving Machines
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Gold and Silver – The Noble Metals
Gold and silver have long been esteemed as the king and queen of metals, for good reason. No other members...
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Causes & Prevention of Defects in Wrought Alloys
Much of the recent literature on defects that occur in jewellery manufacture is focused on those occurring in lost wax...
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Scoring and Bending
Scoring and bending is one of the most important ways of constructing jewellery. Scoring is a method of obtaining very...
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How to Resize Platinum Rings
This article offers instructions on how to resize platinum rings whether for a size smaller or bigger, as well as,...
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Overglaze Technique
For more than twenty years, I have been using overglazes as a direct painting technique. My canvas usually is a...
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Process of Cleaning Metal Surfaces
For all metal coloring and electroplating a clean metal surface is essential. The cleaning process must remove mineral oils, organic...
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Kiln Questions
First, the 'n' really is silent, at least according to the American Heritage Dictionary. There are kilns as big as...
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Re-tipping Platinum Prongs
Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip...
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Jewellers’ Objective Attitude Towards Designing
It is sometimes useful to have criticism of one's work in order to develop it. While studying as an apprentice...
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Securing Curved Stones for Easy Drilling
Securing curved stones when drilling can be a bit difficult. I use recycled ceramic china, beach pebbles, sea and river...
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Methods of Closing Jump Rings
In high volume production operations, many jump rings need to be closed one after another. For such fast paced operations,...
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CAD/CAM: The Basics
What if you could sit down at your computer, spend a little time manipulating the mouse, keyboard or electronic pencil...
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Learning Metalsmithing Process
An art school is in some ways a difficult place to learn to be a metalsmith. Traditional systems of industry...
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Designing Contemporary Flatware
No single item is more used yet more neglected than flatware. It is used in one form or another by...
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Laser Welding Sterling Silver
In laser welding of Sterling Silver ' lower silver bearing alloys (coin silver) we have about seven choices in laser...
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Tips for Recovering Precious Metal Particles
Most jewelers know how to handle their precious metal scraps: they separate their scraps by metal, dry out ultrasonic solutions...
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Proper Use of Liquid Metals
Applying liquid gold, palladium and/or silver in the final firing of enamel pieces is something that can frequently raise the...
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A Conversation with Angela Cummings
In October of 1983 Angela Cummings announced that she would end a 16-year association with Tiffany & Company in order...
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Anodizing Aluminum
While I was in graduate school at San Diego State University I became interested in the anodizing process. I had...
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The Art of Mold Cutting
Mold cutting sounds simple enough: Using a sharp knife and a simple tool, such as a can opener or a...
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Tips for Avoiding Meltdown
Now What?
You’ve carved a few waxes or made a piece in metal that you want to mold and have...
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Japanese Special Patinas
The rich history of Japanese patinas is the result of hundreds of years of experimentation, innovation and tradition. This article...
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Sneaky Goldsmith Tricks
The best 'Sneaky Goldsmith Tricks' involve taking mundane, everyday items and repurposing them as goldsmith's tools. Two classic tricks that...
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Metal Spinning Part 3: Tooling
As skill develops in spinning, it becomes more important to have a sense of what forms can be produced. To...
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Gold of Africa: Jewellery and Ornaments from Ghana
Now this is a truly attractive book. One of those coffee table type books dripping with gorgeous National Geographic quality...
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Creating Equal Divisions in Stone Setting
Below are steps for an easy way to create equal divisions in setting stones that jewelers need to know.
Dividing...
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Safety Notes for Jewelers on Pitch, Chasing and Repousse
An ancient system of working metals, this procedure uses steel punches to manipulate the metal while it is fixed onto...
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Manufacturing Jewelry in Platinum Some Basic Facts
Properties of platinum
Platinum ore
To get one ounze of pure platinum you have to process 11 tons of ore....
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Practical Course in Goldsmithing
A micro-waterjet device can be used to achieve fine matt finishes on precious metal surfaces. Parts required for this are:...
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Repairing Broken Chains
The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires...
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Palladium Q&As
Its no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use...
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Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths
Looking down the long corridors of time, the ancient Etruscans emerge as a powerful people whose economic and social development...
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Setting Gemstone on Precious Metal Clay
PMC is not a traditional material, and so a few pioneers went about tentatively setting cubic zirconia's, and lab grown...
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Preparing 3D Acrylic Photopolymer Patterns
Editors Note: This article is excerpted from “A New Method for Preparing 3D Acrylic Photopolymer Patterns for Investment Casting,” a...
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Plique-a-Jour Russian Soldering Method
There are a number of methods for plique a jour, a filigree technique that allows light to shine through the...
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Touchstone Method for Testing Karat Gold Purity
There are a few scientific methods for precisely determining karat gold purity, some destructive (fire assay) and others nondestructive (X-ray...
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The Enamelwork of Jamie Bennett
It is a rare and most welcome event when a technical innovation is accompanied by an esthetic revelation. This is...
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Multi-Metal Lamination
Multi-metal Lamination is a type of 'faux' married metal which produces a freer, more 'painterly' effect than the hard-edge, highly...
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Single File
A step-by-step guide to single-row pavé settings
Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set...
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High-Tech for Goldsmith Studios
State-of-the-art technology and innovative methods are the pacemakers for high-performance and effective work in a crafts trade. Jewelers and goldsmiths...
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Ashante Casting
In 1965, while visiting near Kumasi in Ghana, Max Frohlich first saw the process of Ashante casting. At the time...
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The Effects of Global Warming on Pearl Oysters
Warming waters, changes in weather patterns, and increases in storm activity may all affect the future success of pearl farms,...
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Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree
Victoria Lansford on the art of filigree—Russian or otherwise
BOX: The Art of Handcraft
Every jewelry designer can pinpoint the...
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Colorit: Tips for Beautiful Color Details
The exceptional colors of the Colorit range manufactured by Inovis in Schaan, Liechtenstein has enabled innovative goldsmiths to explore new...
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Profitable Jewelry Design and Repair
A few years ago, Jewelers Circular Magazine reported that over 75% of all retail jewelers in America lose money on...
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Platinum Finishing/Polishing Process
Opinions differ considerably when discussing the ease or difficulty of polishing platinum, but most agree that when a piece is...
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Enameling Tips: Enamel Suppositions
This article is a part of a series offering enameling tips and what is most occurring that enamelists encounter. This...
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Rendering Design and Process
This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal...
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Ornamental Chasing and Repousse
Working on the front of the piece only is called chasing. Repousse is the combination of tracing the design on...
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Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire
Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire - looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22...
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Enameling Care and Considerations
The primary reason designer Amy Roper Lyons of Summit, New Jersey, began working in enamels is fairly black and white:...
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Testing the New HD Patterns
Invented by Victor Joyner, a Chicagobased manufacturing jeweler, patented High Definition (HD) Patterns are made of a light-curing polymer material...
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The PUK: Generation 3
The PUK® fine welding devices have established themselves in the goldsmith studios and in the jewelry manufacturers in over 50...
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Photoetching for the Studio Jeweler
In photoetching a photo transparency defines the area of a metal plate to be etched. The transparency is the control...
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Full eBook: The Jewelry Maker
Full eBook.48 Pages: Jewelry and metalsmithing are hard work, and also very rewarding. There is great pleasure in creating with...
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Roll Printing Technique
Roll printing, or texture transfer, has been around a long time. The ancient Greeks and Romans used various dies and,...
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Low Cost Electric Grinding Machine
Enamel surfaces can be ground more quickly and efficiently with an electric grinding machine than by hand. Because professional grinding...
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Application of Hot Smithing Process to Non-Ferrous Metals
The motivation for undertaking this research was to establish a more expedient process to achieve volumetric forms in non-ferreous metals....
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Tips for Working With Drill Bits
Tips for working with drill bits
In previous columns, I’ve explored the everyday activity of drilling, touching on drilling boards...
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Fit to be Sized
Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see...
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Practical Wax Modeling Techniques
To begin with I highly recommend this book of technical information and procedures for anyone wanting to learn wax modelling...
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Useful Bench Tools
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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De-Enameling and Other Myths
Up until quite recently if asked "How do you remove enamel from silver?" the answer was "with great difficulty." The...
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Precious Metal Alloys Part 1
In the Middle Ages, alchemy meant the art of fathoming natural substances in an experimental manner. The goal of the...
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Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith
From 1988 to 1989, German goldsmith Hermann Jünger was celebrated in his native country with a major retrospective of his...
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Production Project Proposal
This is an example of a production project proposal involving the reproduction of two historically important buttons. This shows how...
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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler
I first discovered Allan Adler's Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my...
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Heat-Induced Web Textures on Anodized Aluminum
In late 1981, I began working with anodized aluminum, drawn to its light weight, availability and low cost. In developing...
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Fabricating a Crown to Fit a Stone
Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the...
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The Art of Doublée Making
Historically, a wide range of techniques has been used to clad or coat silver or base metals with gold. These...
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Organize Your Bench
The next time you sit down at your bench, don't think of it as just a bench. Think of it...
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Platinum Fabricating & Stamping
This paper is aimed mainly at the small- to medium-sized jewelry manufacturing operations interested in working with platinum group metals....
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Translating Line Art into 3D Models in Matrix
Line art, such as logos, family crests, text or numbers, cartoon characters, and even sketches can be quickly and easily...
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Casting Tools and Products
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Perfect Finishing Tools and Techniques
Our castings can be flawless, our assembly precise, and our settings secure -- but let any surface go a bit...
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How to Work Enamel Hot
Photo 1: Apply a coat of enamel on a piece of domed copper and fire.
Photo 2. A sheet of...
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North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, etc.
This page offers a list of some useful North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, information, etc that would be very...
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CAD/CAM Designer Tools
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire
Working with silver jewelry wire is an essential skill for most jewelers. Learn the meaning of terms such as gauge,...
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Finishing Machines
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Transparency Making for Photoetching
This article, "Transparency Making for Photoetching", is the first of two parts written by Allan Liu and Carol Webb. Check...
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Stone Setting Tips
Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on...
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Laser Technology
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Precious Metal Clay 101
There are two brands of metal clay available today; Precious Metal Clay and Art Clay Silver. There are a lot...
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Aluminum & Aluminum Anodizing
This article is based on technical information taken from my personal notes and experiences, shared information from the Penland Anodizing...
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Enamel Coloring Techniques
On the difficulties with handling enamel: Enamel is one of the most durable methods of confining colors to a background....
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Contemporary Japanese Jewellery
Contemporary Japanese Jewellery, In order to introduce largely unknown contemporary Japanese jewelry to the West, British jeweler Simon Fraser, working...
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Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 2
I’m hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the...
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Using Non-Jeweler’s Tools For Fabrication: How To Repurpose Painting Blades For Bezels
Helen I. Driggs demonstrates how some non-jewelers tools give fabrication a new twist.
My background is in graphic design, so...
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Plique-a-Jour Pictorial
This article Amy Roper Lyons offers two things: a Plique-a-Jour pictorial and three safety tips when handling or working with...
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Patination for Small Scale Studio Use
In recent years there has been an increased interest in patination and metal coloring. This may be seen as a...
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Eliminating Ash Residue Defects
The casting department at Stuller Inc. in Lafayette, Louisiana, has been experimenting with casting photopolymer models, and it has found...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 2
In my last article I wrote about the various adjustable parameters, and the effects of changing those parameters. In this...
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Book Review – The Art of Jewelry Design
Do you like sumptuous drawings and colored renderings of gemstones and fine jewelry? Interested in basic design principles for commercial...
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Bezel Setting Using a Lathe
Bezel setting the center sapphire is normally pretty straight-forward, but I would like to share a few tricks that have...
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Equipment Maintenance Guidelines
You pride yourself on your pristine shop. Your equipment is laid out for maximum efficiency, your tools are stored...
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The Enamelist’s Vocabulary
Each medium has its own vocabulary and so it is with enamels and enameling. The glass glaze material that is...
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How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames
For the illusion of "floating objects" Helen I. Driggs shares her technique, a step by step guide, on how to...
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A New Method for Gilding Silver
A New Method for Gilding Silver
A variety of methods for gilding silver surfaces have been used in the past....
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How to Make a Frame for Enamel Pieces
How to Make a Frame for Enamel Pieces
The instruction below is addressed to people who have little experience in...
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Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay
The use of area inlay, called damascening or woven inlay, is common in the ancient metalwork of Iran, India, Japan,...
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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity
Richard Reinhardt's best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in...
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Laser Forming: Silversmithing Potential
Laser forming is an emerging rapid prototyping (RP) technique that has undergone research worldwide since the mid 1980s. It is...
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Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth
Last fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee hosted a retrospective of the work of Helen Shirk. Nearly...
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Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel
For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald...
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Meditation on Metallurgy
Meditation on Metallurgy
Not everything is metal, but metal is everywhere. Metal is the conductor of all matter….And thought is...
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The Enamelwork of Bill Helwig
When enamelist Bill Helwig celebrated the half-century mark in July of 1988, his wife Lenore Davis, asked the celebrants to...
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The Art of Tool Making
There are two properties which distinguish a good tool from a bad one. The tool must have the correct shape...
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Platinum Casting with Gemstones
Platinum casting with gemstones in place has been the latest development before the end of the second millennium. It has...
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Creating Beading Pliers Accessory Bezel Settings
Sometimes, holding on to really little parts is the greatest challenge of my day. I use tiny cabochons almost daily...
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Technical Briefs: Dealing with Firescale
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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Precision Fine Casting
Workshops now have to incorporate a lot of technology, ranging from lost wax casting through to modern working processes within...
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Practical Approach to CAD/CAM
Once more the realm of engineers and number-crunchers, CAD over the years has become more user-friendly and artisan-intuitive. Similarly, small-shop,...
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Metalwork in the 20th Century
Metalwork in the 20th Century
When curator J. Stewart Johnson of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York decided...
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Craftsmanship Improvement Method
This is a method to reduce technical problems which one repeatedly experienes. We all find during the learning process that...
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Precious Metal Alloys Part 3
The hardening of gold and silver is now easier than ever before thanks to increased experience in the heat treatment...
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How to Make Sharp Corner Cuts
Sawing is an essential skill for a bench jeweler. This article will show you a technique that will increase your...
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Robert Lee Morris: The End of an Era
Robert Lee Morris: The End of an Era
Seventeen years ago Robert Lee Morris opened Artwear in the Soho section...
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One-Piece Die Cutting
One-Piece Die Cutting
The Society of North American Goldsmiths, its staff, directors, officers and members, and Metalsmith magazine specifically disclaim...
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Precious Metal Refining
The principle of this ancient, valued procedure is described here because of its historical interest, and with the thought that...
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Safer Pickle Alternative
Procrastination can sometimes lead to wonderful discoveries. Tom Arnold, owner of Facets Fine Jewelry in Arlington, Virginia, found this out...
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Fauré Studio Enamel Techniques
One of the many workshops presented at the 10th Biennial Enamelist Society Conference was The Fauré Studio Enamel Techniques, instructed...
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The Metal Shop Tin Men
Metal shop tin men seem to be as American as L. Frank Baum's tale of Dorothy and company in the...
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Dirk Van Erp: Arts & Crafts Coppersmith
Due to a recent comprehensive exhibition at the San Francisco Craft & Folk Art Museum, we reintroduce to our readers...
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The Benefits of Multiple Cell Electrolysis Technology
Every goldsmith needs a precise, energy rich gas flame at his workplace. Compressed gas cylinders offer one opportunity for this....
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Using Acid Bath on Used Tools
Bench jewelers hate to throw out used tools. By training and by nature we try to conserve the materials we...
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Enamel is Glass — But, What is Glass?
In the beginning, there was glass. Glass was created or formed along with our planet Earth. Glass was here; waiting...
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Transferring Cartoon
In Vol. 4, No. 4, August, 1985 issue of Glass on Metal we published an article titled "Ways to Achieve...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 2
Granulation involves placing and fusing tiny balls of silver on the surface of the backsheet in a preplanned design. The...
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Enamelists Make Plique-a-Jour Souvenirs
In the gay nineties, one hundred years ago and more now, the newly rich were off to see the world....
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Pumice Finishing and Brass Wire Brushing
The first time I saw a machine for pumice finishing and brass wire brushing was at the School for American...
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Resolving Surface Irregularities in T-Splines
T-splines, a plug-in for Rhinoceros CAD software and bundled with Matrix 7 and above, is a great modeling tool for...
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Ossa-Sepia Casting
Ossa-Sepia casting is a ‘lost form of casting’ as the moulds can only be used one time. This makes each...
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CAD Repair Programs for Unprintable Files
Using CAD repair programs to save unprintable files
You spend hours creating a custom piece in CAD for one of...
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Kenneth Bates: Dean of American Enameling
When I asked him who Kenneth Bates is, he laughed and replied "a simple dirt farmer from New England." However,...
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Kinds of Alloys
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 4
I'm hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the...
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Perfect Technique and Innovative Products
To keep up with the competition, goldsmiths and jewelers are increasingly being required to keep up-to-date with the latest technological...
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Harold Hasselschwert: Materialization of the Exotic
Possibly of another time and almost certainly of another place, Hal or Harold Hasselschwert enamels entice the imagination with the...
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English Painted Enamels
English enamels, in the genre also widely classed as Battersea work [after the initial place of their manufacture] were profusely...
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Goldsmith Jewelry Finishing Trick
Every bench jeweler has experienced the frustration of trying to sand and polish a nearly inaccessible area on a piece...
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Book Review – Lapidary Carving for Creative Jewelry
This book is an expert and concise introduction to the world of carving gem materials. You could actually do it...
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Designing PMC Pieces for Enamel
Precious Metal Clay, being fine silver and high karat gold, is the perfect material to accept enamel. It is possible...
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Tackling Chain and Finding Repair
Ask most jewelers about repairing a chain or finding and they’re likely to offer you their best Charlie Brown impression:...
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Blacksmith Enameling
February 21 - 22, 2004 was another high point in our enameling career. Irmgard and I travelled to the John...
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Flat Topped Solitaire Setting
The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard...
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Patinating Brass Alloys Using Contact Plating
This procedure should be undertaken with appropriate precautions; goggles, gloves, protective clothing, adequate ventilation. Recently I have been presented with...
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New Technologies Make Us Fit for the Future
In difficult times, it is important to invest in modern methods, machines and tools. Jewelry and watch makers can assert...
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Special Repair Work
It is not uncommon for moving parts to wear out. This is to be expected because of increased friction as...
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Application of Enamel En Plein
Application of Enamel En Plein
In my 30 years of enameling and creating objects of art and jewelry, I have...
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Book Review – Bernhard Schobinger – Jewels Now!
Bernhard Schobinger, one of Europes most provocative and influential jewel artists, is the subject of this handsome monograph, originally produced...
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Suggested Tools from Karl Fischer
Ask for a catalog with an English supplement. Order by surface if a heavy order as shipping from Germany is...
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Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant
I received this opal from a woman who had cut it years ago. Her customer was aware it had a...
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Full eBook: Practical Jewelry Rendering
This practical tool-in-a-book combines instruction on rendering techniques with unique guides that assist designers as they conceive jewelry and other...
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Rules for Tools
While it is clearly impossible to give a set of rules for each tool and procedure that goldsmiths use, this...
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Methods for Applying Patination Solutions
Extremely clean metal surfaces give better results. See the article on Cleaning metal Surfaces for more information on cleaning.
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Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression
Creativity is problem-solving, a skill based on the conscious and/or unconscious recombination and juxtaposition of information derived from diverse sources...
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Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade
The word "technology" is defined as the totality of the means employed to provide the objects necessary for sustenance and...
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Layering Over Sgraffitoed Liquid
I make light switch covers that are site-specific functional fine art and sculptural vessels that are not at all functional....
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Handling Stakes and Anvils
Shaping a bezel on stakes is a process of forming the metal by stretching. First the metal is bent with...
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Etymology of Enamel
Most people in our discipline use the word Enamel to identify both the glass which is fused to metal, and...
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Soldering Demystified: Debunking a Soldering Myth
Debunking a soldering myth
There are many myths about heating pieces during soldering that can cause innumerable problems during relatively...
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Jewelry Making Bench Tips
Jeremy Pavlow shares his common jewelry making bench tips by taking advantage of other tools and materials not normally used...
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The Artists as Curators and Critics
Fortunately, change is inevitable. Even for those individuals in the art establishment who assert that artists cannot and should not...
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The Trouble with Pyrite
The first reference that I have that links copperas with the collection of fossils is found in the 'Life and...
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The New MJSA/WGC White Gold Color Index
Have you ever noticed how white gold varies in color? Many folks think white gold is the same color as...
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Discussion on Refiner Methods
Shawna Kulpa takes a look into the assaying methods refiners use to determine the value of a lot. This article...
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Chromatec: Producing Photographic Images on Refractory Metals
In response to Marilyn Shaw's article "Photographic Images on Refractory Metals" (Metalsmith, Summer '84, page 32), we have researched the...
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Photographic Images on Refractory Metals
The following article explains photo techniques used to transfer images onto refractory metals. These findings were developed during my graduate...
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Waste Not, Want Not
When it comes to recovering precious metal, nothing is worthless. However, if you walk into many repair shops you will...
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Champlevé Enameling
Background
My formal education includes a Bachelors Degree in Chemical Engineering and a Masters Degree in Mechanical Engineering. My interest...
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The Enamelware of Alan Mudd
The English enameller, Alan Mudd, born in Lancashire, began his studies in the fine arts, and served an indentured apprenticeship...
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James Evans Jewelry & Small Objects
This article is a review on the Jewelry & Small Objects Exhibition by James Evans held at the Prime Canadian...
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