Oval and Marquis Gemstone Layout Method

This article simply describes the eight (8) steps of the oval or marquis gemstone layout method. These easy steps are flawlessly on point and will help you more than you know.

Accurately laying out an oval or marquis stone in wax can be tricky business. We learned this foolproof method for getting a perfect layout every time after years of difficulty.

  1. Draw cross layout lines. The oval stone shown here measures 20 mm long by 18 mm wide
  2. From the center, mark half the length and half the width on the four points of the layout lines.
  3. Using dividers, draw two semicircles from one side of the width (18 mm) to the other. Repeat for the other side of the stone.
  4. To draw the length of the oval, offset the dividers from the center equally for both sides to draw lines that intersect the width.
  5. Using a graver, cut a deeper outline of the oval.
  6. Use the dividers to scribe lines across the top and bottom of the oval for prong location.
  7. Use a 1.5 mm diameter wax-marking tool to mark the prongs.
  8. With a 2.5 mm diameter wax-marking tool, you can lay out side stones using the original layout lines to center them.

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The award-winning Journal is published monthly by MJSA, the trade association for professional jewelry makers, designers, and related suppliers. It offers design ideas, fabrication and production techniques, bench tips, business and marketing insights, and trend and technology updates—the information crucial for business success. "More than other publications, MJSA Journal is oriented toward people like me: those trying to earn a living by designing and making jewelry," says Jim Binnion of James Binnion Metal Arts.
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