Learning Center

Stone Setting

Learn to place gemstones securely and beautifully on jewelry pieces. Our stone setting articles cover techniques and tools for setting popular gems.

107 ARTICLES 147 VIDEOS 14 PRODUCTS
Product
Beading Tool Set

This Swiss made comprehensive beading tool set includes 100 hardened steel beading tools in a wide range of sizes, a steel beading block with 40 holes (four each of 10 sizes), a mushroom style tool handle, and a solid wood organizer.

Product
Master Stone-Setting System

This comprehensive, well-built master stone-setting system includes 36 hardened steel punches (sizes 1.5mm to 20mm) and two smooth, comfortably shaped hardwood handles (one pear and one mushroom) with easy-to-use chuck collets.

Article
Step by Step Guide to Fishtail Settings

One of the most popular setting styles today, fishtail settings are one of the few setting methods that show off melee really well. It gets its name from the fact that when viewed from the side, the prongs flare out into two sections that resemble…

Article
Cross-Sectional Critique

This article is a  Cross-Sectional Critique of applying clipping planes to model manufacturability written by Darla Alvarez of GIA Jewelry Design & Technology Instructor. One of the potentially overlooked advantages of using CAD…

Article
Creating Equal Divisions in Stone Setting

Below are steps for an easy way to create equal divisions in setting stones that jewelers need to know. Dividing something into equal parts is something jewelers do all the time. For example, you may have to set stones equally around a ring band…

Video
Fishtail Setting Tutorial

Master diamond setter Gerry Lewy shows dying art of making a fish tail setting. Made completely by hand, this is an example of supreme metal sculpturing. Filmed in full HD 1080p.

Product
Thermoshield 1lb. Thermo Shield Heat Blocker Jar

The new revolutionary environmentally safe protective barrier for retarding the transfer of heat. This product will adhere to vertical non-absorbent surfaces as well as to stones. You will no longer have to remove the stone. Dab the Thermo…

Product
Hastings 18mm Oval Plain Grip Triplet Loupe

These are high-quality Hastings Triplet Loupes. Hastings lenses are constructed from three lens elements cemented together to form a single lens. The unmatched clarity of these triplet loupes is further enhanced by black outer lens edges…

Product
Oval Set

Cup-shaped cutters used to form a decorative bead or fine row of cuts on any piece of jewelry. Set of six contains sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and a chuck holding handle.

Product
Bezel & Flush Setting DVD set

By Blaine Lewis. This two-tape DVD set guides you step by step in bezel and flush setting diamonds and colored stones. Comes with two practice mountings two sets of practice stones one GRS¨ hard steel point burnisher and templates. Running…

Product
Attack Glue-Dissolving Compound

Dissolves cured epoxy and polyester resins. Cleans cured resins from metal stone glass wood undrilled pearls quartz coral and many other materials. Do not use with plastic amber or amelite.

Product
GRS Microblock Ball Vise

Use for engraving stone setting and other precision work. The Microblock’s stainless steel low-profile body stainless steel jaws and compact design are especially suited for microscope work or other situations where the size of…

Article
Flat Topped Solitaire Setting

The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard solitaire mounting. I prefer this ring design as it makes the smaller stone app ear slightly larger in its overall appearance.…

Article
Creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant

Steve Satow describes the procedure on creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant. Creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant Beginning components are two 14kw pendants, a lobster claw, a 6mm jump ring, a 16 inch strand of 6mm pearls…

Article
Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel

For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald surrounded by many small diamonds in a pendant. The approximate value of the emerald stone is $7,500. When setting a stone this delicate I…

Article
Bezel Setting Using a Lathe

Bezel setting the center sapphire is normally pretty straight-forward, but I would like to share a few tricks that have helped me improve the outcome. Please follow along as I bezel set this sapphire using a lathe or a watch-maker’s lathe.…

Article
Bezel Setting Method

Bezel setting is one of the most secure methods of setting a gemstone into a mounting, but one of the most difficult to do cleanly. Bezel setting, by its very nature, requires you to deform and wrinkle the metal around a stone causing uneven variations…

Article
Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 4

I’m hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the common bench procedures that can easily lead to damage of colored stones – and how to avoid it. Some of it will be familiar,…

Article
Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 2

I’m hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the common bench procedures that can easily lead to damage of colored stones – and how to avoid it. Some of it will be familiar, some…

Article
Step by Step Guide to Single Row Pave Settings

Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set into a narrow strip of metal, is a beautiful use of melee and one of the most popular setting styles today. While more difficult than prong or bezel setting, it is a great first…

Article
Book Review – Setting of Gemstones

This article is a book review by Tim McCreight for the book “Setting of Gemstones”, written by Walter Zeiss, for the 1984 Fall issue of Metalsmith Magazine. Setting of Gemstones By Walter Zeiss, Ruhle-Diebener-Verlag Stuttgart,…

Video
Gerry Lewy Video F – Bead Setting

Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you the technique of bead setting stones including creating the beads from scratch. Filmed in full HD 1080p.

Article
A Conversation with Angela Cummings

In October of 1983 Angela Cummings announced that she would end a 16-year association with Tiffany & Company in order to seek other opportunities, either as an independent jewelry designer or working under the auspices of another upscale…

Article
2 Successful Stone Setting Tips

Ask any experienced jeweler, and they’ll tell you: it takes stones to become a gem setter. You literally have to put hundreds of stones in their place, time and time again, to be able to reach a point of consistent quality. Along the way,…

Article
Melee Sizes for Better Layouts

In modern-day fine jewelry, the most commonly used stone material is round brilliant-cut (RBC) diamond melee. Widely available in a multitude of sizes, the application of RBC melee in a jewelry computer-aided design (CAD) model is limited…

Article
Jenny Reeves’ Layered Ring

Although a Philadelphia native, designer Jenny Reeves loves her adopted city of San Francisco. When a local jewelry organization held a San Francisco-themed design challenge, Reeves joined in, eager to create a piece that would pay tribute…

Article
Gemstone Setting Tip: Shape

“You should know what kind of shape you’re in,” joked Arthur Anton Skuratowicz during an MJSA At the Bench Live demonstration he gave last month at the AGTA GemFair in Tucson. While sharing gemstone setting tips for fancy shaped and raw…

Article
Extra Setting Material for CAD Files

When setting gemstones into castings that started life as CAD files, jewelers often complain that they don’t have quite enough metal with which to work. Building a little extra setting material into your CAD files is simple, and it can…

Article
Meteorite Pendant by Jacob Albee

Like many jewelers, Jacob Albee of Jacob Albee Goldsmith in Burlington, Vermont, buys stones without always knowing what he’s going to do with them. That was the case with a near-perfect circle of agate. “It was just a very cool translucent…

Article
Setting Stones in Wax

One of the most revolutionary advances in recent years, apart from laser welding, is the method of setting stones in wax. It has allowed many previously impossible designs andalso allowed the jeweler to forge ahead and create many difficult…

Article
Handling Colored Stones at the Bench Part 1

Ever since childhood, I’ve been fascinated by rocks and gems. I started cutting cabs more than 40 years ago, and have been faceting colored stones for about 30 years. I do precision cutting of colored gems these days, and that often includes…

Article
Channel Setting Princess Cuts

Recently, a woman brought in her diamonds and asked to have a ring made with them. Her requirements were very simple. She wanted her I carat princess cut to be prong set as the center stone and her small princess cut melee to be channel set on either…

Article
Tube Setting Faceted Stones

When beginning to do tube settings, the first thing anyone should do is buy a “Setters Tube Holder” which appears in many tool supply catalogues. I have two of them for easy access. Expose only the very top of the cullet in the tube…

Article
Bezel Setting Cabochon Stones

One of the most basic designs in stone setting is Bezel Setting. It is rudimentary in its concept, and it is very pleasing to the eye in its simplicity. This concept blends with the smooth vertical shape of the stone. There are no sharp corners,…

Article
Bead and Bright Setting

In the last issue of Bench Magazine I demonstrated how I would go about wax model carving for this unusual mother’s ring design. Bead and Bright Setting: The Four Bead Method The wax model has now 
been cast into Platinum with
 a 10%…

Article
Prong Setting & Ring Sizing Tips

I’m going to do something different in this issue. Instead of taking you through the steps involved in putting a new piece of jewelry on the market, I’m going to share some bench tips that I’ve been taught, or developed, through…

Article
Marquise Diamond Setting

This particular setting has two V shaped claws and four regular, holding and protecting claws. I will try to unravel much of the mystery of this setting as easily as possible in this document. In reality there is no mystery in setting these delightful…

Article
How to Set Baguettes

Baguette stones have four corners and a rather deep pavilion. Because of this you must handle these stones with special care at all times. You must make sure that all the bearings being cut are totally in line with the long girdles of this shape…

Article
Channel Setting Round Diamonds

Recently a woman brought an old family diamond into our store and asked to have a custom mounting made for it. The diamond was a 3.18 carat round brilliant and a pretty one at that. She looked through our showcases and fell in love with a yellow gold…

Article
Stone Setting Tips

Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on gemstones. When securing stones, please use a soft metal pusher. I suggest a copper or brass pusher. This will prevent making deep marks…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Raindrops Pendant

Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece of jewelry to our line. In this issue we will be working with our latest design. I’ll take you through every phase of production,…

Article
A Crowning Achievement Part 2

In the last issue we looked at making a basic basket crown. In this article we will fabricate a more advanced crown. One of the most versatile crowns to make is a half-basket crown. This crown can be used for diamonds or colored stones and generally…

Article
Squaring the Diamond

When setting a round brilliant diamond in a four prong setting there is some debate among stone setters on how to orient the stone. This is also known as ‘squaring the diamond’. Some feel it should be set ‘square on’…

Article
Bead Setting Method – Part 3

In past issues of BENCH magazine, I have dealt heavily on making a bead raiser and using it to bead set diamonds, and I have a CD on this topic for sale. Some of you out there are probably asking, “Gerry, there must be an easier method to secure…

Article
Jewelry Designs: Steeplechase Pendant

As a traditional symbol of good luck, this piece is inspired by the horseshoe. It is dedicated to the power and grace of the race horse including those of our very own Iroquois Steeplechase. Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we…

Article
Bench Jeweler’s Guide to Setting Gemstones

This Professional Bench Jewelers Guide to Setting Gemstones cannot anticipate every potential situation you may encounter. Always use extreme caution and check gemstones thoroughly before working on them. The codes in these two boxes…

Article
Bud Bur Tool

Of all the burs used on a setters bench, my one good true friend is the bud bur. Why? Because it’s one of the most diverse tools at our disposal. It is used for opening holes, cutting azures, cutting
seats, as a mini-file.
scalloping…

Article
A Crowning Achievement Part 1

Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the stone is a non-standard shape, or the crown needs to fit a particular design. Although one will seldom hand fabricate a simple round basket…

Article
Bead Setting Method – Part 1

Any name you wish to put to this method of securing stones works; but how many of you jewelry bench-workers know the real way of securing stones this way. Well, let me try and explain to you in the next two articles, starting now with its history!…

Article
Fish Tail Setting

This wonderful style of setting has been around the world of stone setting for many, many years. As you can observe in the picture, the simple but ornate way the initial layout is formed is the whole clincher to this intricate setting design.…

Article
Flush Mount Diamond Setting

Flush setting, or “gypsy setting” as it is sometimes known, is a somewhat exacting and delicate setting technique. The main reason it is called flush setting, and the key to the whole process, is that the table of the gemstone must…

Article
Re-tipping Platinum Prongs

Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip prongs even on a Platinum ring. By definition, re-tipping platinum prongs imply that the stone remains in the setting during the…

Article
Assembled Mounting for Customized Jewelry

Often custom made jewelry can be assembled from stock findings, creating jewelry with a hand-fabricated look in a fraction of the time. This colored stone ring with side diamonds is a prime example. Although this mounting can be purchased…

Article
Setting Gemstone on Precious Metal Clay

PMC is not a traditional material, and so a few pioneers went about tentatively setting cubic zirconia’s, and lab grown corundum into the clay. For almost a decade it has been believed that natural stones would be destroyed in the sintering…

Article
Tube Setting Method

Tube setting is a simple method of setting that can take as little as five minutes or less per setting given a specified stone size and a suitable tube to fit the stone. The setting is visually clean, has a professional look to it and can be done with…

Article
Engraved Bezel with Vertical Walls

Stonesetting has been a part of goldsmithing for as long as people have worked in precious metals. Perhaps the oldest and most used setting has been the bezel. The simplest form of the bezel is a ring of metal fitting the circumference of the enclosed…

Article
Basic Bead Setting Techniques

First the stone’s diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in the metal for the pilot drill (about 1mm diameter). Then the metal is drilled through. The metal is drilled again until the hole is about 3/4 the size of the stone’s diameter.…

Article
Basic Gypsy or Flush Mount Setting

First the stone’s diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in metal for the pilot drill (about 1mm diameter). Then the metal is drilled The metal is drilled again until the hole is about 3/4 the size of the diameter. Lubricate the…

Article
Channel Setting – Set ‘Em Straight

Over the past decade, channel setting has grown in popularity. Setting small diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and even emeralds into channels has become commonplace in most shops. Hardly a week goes by without some form of repair being preformed…

Article
The Invisible Setting Process

This column is from the At the Bench column that appears every month in AJM. For this project, it is assumed that you have prepared the mounting and acquired the grooved stones for invisible setting. The use of a microscope or 10x eye loupe can…

Article
Diamond Setting Applications

What is one of the causes of a “rippling or jagged” effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy or Flush setting? How can this be avoided? When an edge of a cutting tool (of any shape) glances over or hits a facet it will ride above that face. In…

Article
V Prong Setting

Several shapes of stones have pointed ends, including marquise, pear, heart, and princess. Because these points are often thin and fragile, it is important to protect them with a prong. This is particularly important on rings where the stone…

Article
Diamond Setting Hints

When setting a series of diamonds in a row, I use a 156C and just touch the inside wall of the hole. This way each and every diamond will sit at the same level and be correctly placed.

Article
Fabricating a Crown to Fit a Stone

Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the stone is a non-standard shape, or the crown needs to fit a particular design. Although one will seldom hand fabricate a simple round basket…

Article
Fit to be Sized

Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see any damage or potential problems that are not marked clearly on the envelope, inform the store manager or sales clerk who took in the…

Article
Suggested Gem Setting Tools

This article lists the basic tools someone learning stonesetting might want to have around. One would of course add to this list..

Article
Bead Stone Setting – Bead It!

Bench Jewelers often use different methods to accomplish the same work. I believe the end results are what is important, not the method used to get there. In jewelry work the ends often justifies the means. This is not more evident than in bead…

Article
22K Gold Granulation on Turquoise Earrings

Featured are the materials for turquoise, platinum and 22-karat gold granulation earrings. The turquoise is 10.25 millimeters round and will be bezel set. The platinum is Pt-900-Ir, a platinum and iridium alloy. Once the platinum fabrication…

Article
Goldsmithing: Stone Setting Techniques

The pleasure and challenge of including gems in a jewelry object (beyond the intrinsic beauty of the gem, of course) is to resolve the various factors that come into play. A well designed setting must achieve several goals simultaneously –…

Article
Benefits of Concave Faceting

How does concave faceting create so much more brilliance than regular flat faceting? Imagine a typical flat, square mirror, Now push the top and bottom closer together so that the reflective side curves toward you. Than take the left and right…

Article
Prong Setting Round Brilliant Gemstones

For setting round brilliant gemstones in prongs, many setters and bench jeweler generalists use a 90 degree low speed bearing bur to cut a bearing in one prong at a time. This procedure is made easy by using the Foredom AllSet with the easy cut…

Article
Flush Setting Round Brilliant Diamonds in Platinum

Seated at his bench, David Howard, owner of My Jeweler, Inc. in Albuquerque , NM contemplates and prepares his work for the day. Technicians at My Jeweler perform repairs while customers wait in addition to the constant flow of design and custom…

Article
Foredom Micro Motor Kit

This article features Bill Holman who bezel sets a 2.55 ct. trillion diamond, 0.03 ct. round brilliant diamonds and engraves a platinum ring and matching pendant using Foredom’s Stone Setting and Engraving Micro Motor Kit..

Article
Foredom TX Flexshaft

When manufacturing and repairing jewelry products, rotary equipment is essential to the process. Nothing is more frustrating or potentially damaging to the task than equipment that offers less than smooth, reliable and strong performance.…

Article
Steps for Graver Preparation

Gravers are small cutting tools used for stone setting, texturing, de-burring and applying decorative embellishments and traditional hand engraving. Steps required to prepare new gravers include mounting, sizing, shaping, sharpening…

Article
Tru-Seat Setting System

Hoover ‘ Strong, Inc. in Richmond, VA provides a line of Tru-Seat settings that include solitaire earrings, pendants and solitaire rings in yellow, white and palladium white gold alloys. By using Tru-Seat mountings and the system outlined…

Article
CAD/CAM Wedding Set Finishing and Setting

Computer aided design (CAD) was used to develop three designs in multiple views to show the customer. After the design was selected, the wax was milled and the ring was cast, pre-finished, set and polished. Foredom tools, equipment and accessories…

Article
Setting a Three Stone Ring with Foredom Tools

This three stone ring designed by Barney Jette has two flush set trillion sapphire side stones with a total weight of 0.81 carats and a 1.05 carat round brilliant diamond center stone. Jette prepared the wax using build-up techniques and cast…

Article
Turning Burrs Into Stonesetting Tools

Stonesetters frequently convert and and reuse tools intended for other purposes. Often when a tool is needed they will cast around the bench looking for raw material – and as every setter knows, used burrs abound. There are a number of tools…

Article
Pulse-Arc-Welder: Ring Prong Replacement

This 14-karat yellow gold, emerald and diamond ring has a broken prong requiring prong replacement. Steece Hermanson will replace the prong and reset the displaced emerald without un-mounting any of the gemstones. For this, he uses the ABI…

Article
Stone Setting Tools FAQs

Tim McCreight answers 13 of the questions about stone-setting tools most frequently asked by his metalsmithing students.

Article
Cabochon Stone Full Bezel Setting

One of the most basic designs in stone setting is “Bezel Setting”. It is so rudimentary in its concept. It is very pleasing to the eye also in its simplicity. This concept blends with the smooth vertical shape of the stone. There are no sharp corners,…

Article
Setting a Stone with Cold Connections

In the jewelry world the term cold connections usually describes mechanical joining techniques that are used to fasten together parts that cannot be soldered. In many cases, cold connections fall into a “layer-this-onto-that” approach.…

Article
Setting Gemstones in Wax

The one of the most revolutionary advance in recent years, apart from the Laser soldering, is the method of “Setting Stones in Wax”. It has “freed” up many impossible designs and allowing the manufacturer to forge ahead and create many difficult…

Article
Stone Setting Considerations

One of the most challenging and technically difficult of the activities involved in the creation of jewelry is the setting of gemstones. Setting the gemstones is often the final step in the entire process of making a piece of jewelry. Not only…

Article
950 Palladium: Making a 3-Stone Ring

When heated to high heat soldering temperatures, some 950 palladium alloys will develop a bluish-purple surface discoloration. It is easily removed by briefly and mildly heating the piece with a neutral flame. When palladium is heated to…

Article
Foredom AllSet Preparation for Prong Bearings

The Foredom AllSet Master Stone-Setting Kit includes prong, pave, channel-cutting guides and a fixture that attaches it to a Foredom No. 30 handpiece. The kit is capable of quickly being set-up in a multitude of ways to complete a variety of…

Article
Setting a CZ in Enamel

This report will describe means for setting a CZ gem in enamel, producing a ring and a medallion with a gem setting without claws. The 6-mm CZ is the center of attention of an anodized titanium ring. The gem is set within the protective confines…

Article
Creating a 950 Palladium and Diamond Ring

This ring design provides an excellent example for gemstone setting and working characteristics of 950 palladium. The superior white color of the alloy, its malleability and overall strength provide a sound and secure setting for the treasured…

Article
Custom Antique Coin Pendant

This article features manufacturing steps for a custom designed 14-karat yellow gold and diamond coin pendant. The coin pendant featured in this article was designed and rendered by Lainie Mann using Matrix. It will be cast in two pieces because…

Article
The Basic Techniques of Shell Inlay

To learn the art of inlay, its best to start with the basics. This project will walk you through the fundamentals so that you become comfortable enough to move on to a more challenging project. Once you master this simple circular design, youll…

Article
Setting Baguette Stones

Baguette stones have four corners and a rather deep pavilion. Because of this you must handle these stones with special care at all times. You must make sure that all the bearings being cut are totally in line with the long girdles of this shape…

Article
Tube Setting Basics

Tube-setting is a stylish way to set round gemstones, and its a great first step toward more complex gemstone setting. Fabricating bezels to accommodate faceted gemstones of different shapes and sizes is an advanced skill to aspire to; however,…

Article
Installing New Tapered Bezels

This ring is in for repair and reconstruction. When it was originally made, 6-prong settings were used to mount the customers diamonds. All prong tops are severely worn and one prong has broken. The customer has requested bezel settings, so…

Article
950 Palladium: Laser Welding Techniques

According to Frank McAllister, the quantity of individual pieces of jewelry made from 950 palladium has surpassed the same for platinum products in the recent months. McAllister, CEO of the Stillwater Mining Co. calculated this based upon…

Article
Handling Stakes and Anvils

Shaping a bezel on stakes is a process of forming the metal by stretching. First the metal is bent with pliers to fit the gem, forming a shape smaller than the stone while following its contour. The gauge of the sheet metal chosen is slightly thicker…

Article
950 Palladium: Gemstone Setting

Setting gemstones in 950 palladium alloys is a bench jeweler’#39;s dream. Stone setters will agree that the combination of palladium’#39;s malleability, superior strength and the near absence of memory (spring-back) when it is bent or…

Article
3 Designers on a Pearl Challenge

Aesthetic interpretations are as unique as fingerprints. Give three people the same trendy sweater and each will wear it in a different way. Give three jewelry designers the same unusual cultured pearl and each will design a distinctly different…

Article
Millimeter Gauge Layout Technique

Meticulous planning and tedious layout are a big part of a goldsmiths life at the bench. It usually pays dividends to thoughtfully plan gemstone layout for graver setting. If youre off by just 0.1 mm in one direction or another, you can sometimes…

Article
Setting Square Shaped Diamonds

In this article we will set the baguettes and princess cut diamonds in the platinum mounting. Begin cutting the seat for the baguettes use a 45 degree hart bur and undercut each of the end caps. Be certain to hold the bur at the correct depth. Generally…

Article
Beading Tool Tips

Like most bench jewelers I do a lot of bead setting and like most
bench jewelers I take pride in my work. When I bead set I want crisp
and clean beads. Recently, I was setting one pointers into white
gold skirts that would become…

Article
Vector Tightening to Secure Gemstones

Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to both the gem and the setting. A regular inspection of jewelry can catch this problem in its early stages, before too much damage is done. Vector tightening prong-set stones is…

Article
Making a Bezel

Making a bezel for many stones such as an antique cushion garnet can be difficult when the mandrels on hand do not fit. With the miniature stakes the whole process is quick and easy. The side benefit is that they are more precise than only using…

Article
Oval and Marquis Gemstone Layout Method

Accurately laying out an oval or marquis stone in wax can be tricky business. We learned this foolproof method for getting a perfect layout every time after years of difficulty.

Article
Modified Split Mandrel for Finishing Round Bezels

A bench jeweler typically uses a split mandrel to sand and finish the inside of a ring. Various grits of abrasive papers can be cut to size and inserted into the slit of the mandrel, where they are held by friction during the rotary filing process.…

Article
Renaissance Ring by Andrew Costen

Known for his contemporary designs, Andrew Costen of Costen Catbalue in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, enjoys occasionally returning to his roots to create what he calls a Renaissance ring, this one in 18k white and yellow gold and…

Article
Modified Split Mandrel to Bezel-Set Round Stones

This jewelry bench tip is a follow-up to “Modified Split Mandrel for Finishing Round Bezels,” which showed you how to modify a standard split mandrel to make an effective holding device to finish several fabricated bezels of the same dimensions.…

Article
Quality Assurance Benchmarks for Jewelers

Fine jewelry represents much more than its trade value in diamonds, gemstones and precious metals. It is a personal representation of the owner’s lifestyle, status, emotion, recognition, commitment and more. That significance only amplifies…

Article
How to Modify Prong Pushers

Many stone setters would agree that one of the most challenging aspects of prong setting is getting the prongs down tight on the stone. It’s easy to take this process for granted. If it’s done well, you might never notice. But doing it poorly can…

Article
Delicate Gemstones Design and Setting

Consumers today are more open to wearing unusual gems, and there is a trend among designers to incorporate less familiar stones into their work. No longer wedded to the classic trio of ruby, sapphire, and emerald, jewelry makers today are drawn…

Article
Recycling High Speed Steel Burs

When I buy my high speed steel, 90 degree, under-cutting burs I always think of the words, “waste not, want not”. This little phrase has stuck in my mind for many years. If I find that some of my burs are getting past their prime then I examine each…

Article
CAD Modeling Prong Settings

If you’re designing jewelry using CAD, understanding how the piece will be cast and then set and finished at the bench can mean the difference between failure and success. When modeling prong settings, there are a few tricks you can use to ensure…

Article
Invisible Setting Ring Repairs

The majority of the invisible set styles that are available are the type where the diamonds are pressed in. To do repairs of any kind I believe you should understand how these stones are set and how to set them.

Article
Bypass Shank Ring Assembly

Rings with by-pass shanks are right hand and left hand specific and are not interchangeable. When creating a ring with a by-pass shank, the side of the shank closest to the hand should come from the side of little finger. The ring will then sit…

Article
Royal Flush Stone Setting

A sign on the side of a plumbers truck read, In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House. Thankfully this is not the type of flush this article is about. Instead, this article is about a style of setting small stones that has become very popular…

Article
Different Methods of Cutting Azures

Azure is the American English derivative of the French term a jour or adjoure. An azure is a countersunk cutout on the back of jewelry, behind bead, channel, or flush set diamonds. Usually azures are a square or triangle shaped, resulting in…

Article
Claw Setting – Removing The Fear Factor

As we prepare for the upcoming Christmas season, we will be totally inundated with requests to do some repairs or original fabrications. We will be asked to do some very quick “putting together” as the customer is waiting, many duties you can…

Video
Pearls On Posts

Don’t want to struggle with mounting pearls? Try this simple, easy-to-do method for mounting pearls using pearl caps and epoxy. Use the components to create a wide range of jewelry designs from earrings to necklaces…

Video
“How to make a Wax-Dob”

Why buy a Wax Dob, if you can make it yourself? In these many series of “How to” my student is showing you & us how she made her own wax dob. It might look a tad messy, but these methods are the very same as I did so many…

Video
Bright-Cut inside Bezel setting

This video shows just how the bright-cutting procedure is accomplished. I use only one tool, my “Onglette #2, Right-Sided” graver. It is formed & shaped on a bench-grinder…just for this sole purpose. During this…

Video
Designing with CAD

It is here I am showing how fantastic CAD is now helping our jewellery trade. Instead of raising beads on a piece that incorporates over 525 stones. The setting time could were measured in long hours or even days at the bench. These will be now measured…

Video
3 Azure video’s

Here is the process on how to cut Azure patterns. These appear underneath the diamond setting portion of a ring, bracelet or pendant. Great care is needed in this process of cutting.

Video
Preparing to drill holes!

Before you start to drill any holes in your new project you ‘must’ do the following. Completely measure the thickness of the metal, spacing between the stones, measure the depth from the ‘Table facet ‘ to the ‘Culet’.…

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“Moving a Hole”

Supposing a designing hole is slightly off-center, how would you ‘move’ it? The answer will now be shown without soldering to plug it up?..It’s so very easy!…

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Azure patterns, w/gravers

Here I am explaining how an Azure cut is finished. It is created underneath the hole where the diamond is situated. Absolute precision in graver-cutting is foremost in this process..what I used was a simple Onglet #1 graver,…nothing…

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Drilling Holes in Wax

I need to duplicate a wax form from the original pattern. Here you will see just how easy it can be done. You will notice that all of the intended holes will be now in a straight line just as the original!…

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Bright-Cutting, REVIEW!

In this brief video, I show once more how the graver just sails through the silver. Almost like carving into a piece of cake! It IS EASY, trust me..but you gotta follow the ‘rules the road’. No short-cuts are allowed!!! Have fun,eh!…:>)……

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Bright-Cutting extra notes

It is here I am just going over some extra little notes on Bright-cutting. I might have missed a few. But as this process is so important & extra video or two, will help you a great deal.

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#6, Bead-Burnishing, Final Cuts!

In this final video, you will see the stones being finally set. I will be using a Hart-shaped bur..a.k.a. 156C to under-cut each mini-post/claw. This is to make sure each stone is set level & equally at the same depth. Any ‘touch-ups’…

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#5, Bright-Cutting with a graver

With a modified Onglette #2, Right-Sided bright cutting blade, I am now shearing off metal to leave a very bright cut. These are now on either side of the now newly formed bead/posts. As you can see on this particular video, all of the metal being…

Video
#4..Round bur making beads!

In this very interesting #4 video, I am starting to cut a pattern using a simple #006 round bur to cut beads. These beads are not the usual kinds you’ve seen before. These beads are then going to burnished over the stone once made. This process…

Video
#3- Watch-case on shellac

In this 3rd video, we will use an Onglet #1 graver to do the ‘outline’ or rough-cutting around the silver item. I demonstrate how the line-cutting should take place in reference to cutting around the holes. All preliminary cutting…

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Introduction to Line-Cutting

This 2nd video introduces you to “Line-Cutting”. It is here we will examine what is involved in basic ‘Pre-Cutting’ as it is called in diamond setting terms. The process of doing all of the rough-cutting prior to…

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1-Burs & Gravers for Bright-Cutting

In this first of 6 video’s, I explore the varied, but basic tools I will be using. From the basic round & bud shaped burs I stress that all tools must be kept in pristine condition while being used.

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Introduction #2. “Cut-down Setting”

Here is an second video on how this remarkable style of setting looks. It is virtually a skill in all of it’s own. This is not for the ‘feint of heart’. Perfection of only 100% is needed. At all times full concentration is required…

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Intro #1 “Cut-Down Setting”

I am showing you what this not-often used setting technique looks like on a ring. As one of my friends said… it’s like hand sculpturing in metal, instead on canvass. I place this art-work at an easy 18/10 on my difficulty scale..All…

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Student; Finished setting project.

My student has now finished his first setting project. He is so very happy over his first assignment under my training! He is now finishing off any sanding disk & file marks with his Pumice Wheel #180 grit. He fully understands the needs of…

Video
Student setting an Oval stone

My student is now hammering the stone in place. He checks that the Bezel-Wall is now laying on the stone all during this process. He is constantly using his 10 power loupe. This is the correct method in viewing the setting exercise. He seems to…

Video
Student setting Bezel

In the first video you will watch how my student set a stone. His attempt was met with great success in setting his very first Oval, 8×6 mm CZ. He used my diagrams & watched every little movement of my hands & then duplicated what I…

Video
Close-up of Bright-Cut silver plate

In this second video I show how a simple graver can cut a design. I show on my shellac stick how it originally started. Although the video is not too long, examples speak for them selves. My next few videos on actual Bright-Cutting will be made in…

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Graver w/silver plate

In this video you will see just how a little graver can engrave cuts & mini-claws. These little hand engraved beads are used in setting gem-stones. All that is then used is a bead-burnisher to move over the metal onto the stone…simple…

Video
Graver into a wooden handle

The graver is now sitting in it’s handle, the jeweler will immerse the hot graver into cold water. You must make sure the graver is not tilted or crooked in the wood frame. He will then hit the back-end of the wooden handle with a hammer, just…

Video
Heating a graver

In this video, you can see a graver that is ready to be ‘burned’ in to a wooden handle. This has to be done by using a torch using a high temperature flame.

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Princess-Final video

This is the 3rd video on “How to Set a Princess Stone”. In this video, all tools are shown in finishing this setting process. As this process takes about 15 minutes from start to finish, there are no short-cuts anywhere. Finishing…

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Princess-second video

In this second of three setting demonstrations, you will see the following procedure. I am burring out the inside of the gallery that will accomodate the Princess Pavilion. You will also see how I am exercising much caution in making ‘seats’…

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Princess-first stage of setting!

Now that you know exactly what tools you need in your bench, we can now start the setting. Here I examine the setting & decide to ‘open’ the claws to accommodate the use of pliers & round/bud burs. Easy access to the ‘head’…

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“Tools for a Princess”

This is a video showing all the necessary tools, just to set a Princess stone. Between the selection of round & bud burs, the different kinds of files. I explain the many reasons in using these very important items. Even a 10x loup is part of…

Video
Gypsy Setting-Finish

In this second of two videos just on Gypsy Setting, I demonstrate Bright-cutting inside of the “Gypsy” circle of metal. With this final clean-up, I use my Flat-Faced, #180 grit Pumice wheel. It is in contact all along the surface…

Video
“Gypsy-Start #1”

In this first of 2 videos, I start the drilling with a 156C Under-Cutting bur to make a seat for the stone. I then proceed to hammer the metal over the girdle of the stone. I use a ring-mandrel to hold the ring & stone while it’s being hammer…

Video
Grand Tour of My Setting-Bench

This video is the “Grand Tour of My Setting Bench”. I explain all of my carbide burs as they are located in separate pallets, or bur-holding pads. You will also see where I keep the smaller gem-stones on my bench. My bench-peg even…

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Hammer & Clamps

In this video, I explain the differences between many hammers & clamps prior to setting any style of ring. The optimum phrase is ‘being comfortable’ in setting stones. You don’t want your hand to hurt or have your clamp…

Video
Gypsy Setting w/diagrams

In this video I explain Gypsy Setting & the many techniques using the Hammer & Carbide burs. I also show the route in determining the method in finding the depth prior to setting of the stone. I use extensively my numerous hand-drawn…

Video
Removing gem-stones

In this video, I explore the easy methods of removing gemstones. I instruct how to modify your pliers for this process…

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4-Claw setting, pliers, saw blade

Here I am using a saw-blade to adjust a stone if its not sitting correctly. I will also who you how I modify my pair of pliers. This is so very important when you are bringing in the claws to the stone…

Video
Pumice Wheel, 4-Claw setting

Here you will observe all of the steps in using the Pumice wheel. I use only a Flat-Faced #180 grit & a Tapered wheel. I must remove all of the little marks from the ring, that were caused by my pliers. this has to be in a pristine condition, prior……

Video
Stone in 4-claw head

In this video, you will see the next step in setting of the stone. It is now being prepared to be set into in the 4-claw head. Details in the alignment of the claws to the stone. Using pliers to place the stone & to arrange the claws.

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4-Claw/Prong Setting #2

In this second mini-video, I explain in great detail what happens when I use a H.S.S. 90 degree angle setting bur. In this video I also show what a piece of metal called ‘shards’ can be formed during the ‘bearing-forming.’…

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4-Claw/Prong Setting #1

This is my version of how a large diamond can be set. This is by using only the simplest of setting tools. This is my well-proven method that was taught to me over 50 years ago! Even my students can set these large stones with great ease. With this…

Video
Bezel #5, Final-Hammering

In this last of the ‘mini-series’ on our Bezel setting. I will show you where the hammer hitting will occur. Including how hold the stone in place while starting the hammering process. I will demonstrate the angle of hitting the…

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Bezel #4. Cleaning your Hammer!

One of the most important chores of Diamond & Gemstone setting is keeping your tools in a pristine condition. In this video, I explain how an important tool such as hammer needs to be kept in 100% condition. I demonstrate how I improve on it’s…

Video
Bur selection

In this third video on Bezel setting, I demonstrate which round bur to use for cleaning out the corners from the H.S.S. shaping. I explain what size of bur to use & why is it important. The wrong assumed round bur will give you much grief! I’d…

Video
Bezel #1 HSS bur

In this new series of Bezel setting, I am aiming to introduce my well proven methods of Bezel setting. In this first video I show my use of a High Speed Steel setting bur. It has an angle of 90 degrees. I now show how the angle of the bur…

Video
Bezel #2, Filing top of Bezel wall

In this second video, you will notice which file I will use & where it will come in contact with the top of the bezel. This bezel angle is where the hammer will hit top of the frame.

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Oval stone, bur selection w/diagram

Selecting a proper bur for setting an Oval stone can be difficult. Deciding between H.S.S. & a Carbide bur can be a greater challenge. I make this a really easy task with my diagrams. In this video, I explain just where the scheduled hammer…

Video
Instructional Diagrams

This is an introduction using my hand- drawn diagrams. It will be easier for the student to fully understand all the tools that are required. Some setting projects need certain high-precision files or Gravers. It is my duty to explain which…

Video
Various graver handles!

This video shows all of my 50 handles of all shapes & sizes. The markings on all of them are used for quick identification in my setting bench. I will be explaining how each tool once used, can be inserted in another handle of different lengths.…

Video
Examining Graver results

Once the Onglette graver is secured in the wooden handle, I will get the ‘feel’ of the new blade. I must make sure all of the honed sides are equal on both side of the blade..If this passes my visual inspection, then the graver is ready…

Video
Grinding an Onglette graver

This initial preparation consists of removing the “Tang”. Then having it be inserted into the wooden handle of your choice. Lighting above the bench-grinder is very important as you must see any subtle changes in the shaping…

Video
Tightening gemstones

Tightening gemstones is something you will do all of the time as a jeweler. This is a quick short video that show just the basics of tightening gemstones in rings. I will add additional information and handouts soon!…

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Correcting cleaning defects

If you overlook any errors in your cleaning process, redo as best as you can. Once you go to the polishing stages, all of your rings buffs will only enhance those errors..so double-check your cleaning..now!…

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Examining cleaning wheels!

In this first video, you will see some of the poor quality of cleaning wheels. Only the best, or new wheels are permitted in this aspect of cleaning.

Video
Bright-Cutting, Onglette Graver

This video explains how a rudimentary Onglette graver can be modified, with ease! This modified graver will assist you in Bright-Cutting inside of Bezels, Gypsy-Settings. The tools you need are only an Onglette #1 or #2, an oil-stone! In a…

Video
Pendant fabrication by Temprell

Commissioned handmade pendant in silver, 22.60ct blue topaz. This unique & individual piece was inspired by our customer & finely crafted by Temprell to her specific requirements.

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Precision Bur Control While Setting Gemstones

In this video, renowned teacher, stone-setter and president of New Approach School for Jewelers, Blaine Lewis demonstrates how to use burs effectively to achieve precise control and prevent damage while creating stone settings. Using…

Video
Holts – Carve a cuttlebone mould for a stone setting

In this video, Nicholas of Holts Academy of Jewellery shows you how to carve a cuttlebone for a stone setting. If you enjoyed this tip, try the full online course for FREE, with 4 modules to complete, 10 video lessons, 21 written lessons and personal…

Video
How to make a silver metal clay pendant

Watch this short video from www.mastered.co and learn how to make a silver metal clay pendant. The full course is available here: https://www.mastered.co/courses/6?utm_source=Ganoskin&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=SMC……

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Ring

Irish symbol of friendship, love and loyalty. Silver Ring. Dark-blue topaz stone, and natural pearls. P.s. wonderful gift for your beloved (:…

Video
Modify Your Prong Pushers to Make Them More Versatile

Many stone setters would agree that one of the most challenging aspects of prong setting is getting the prongs down tight on the stone. It’s easy to take this process for granted. If it’s done well, you might never notice. But doing…

Video
A Modified Tool to Bezel-Set Round Faceted Stones

This jewelry bench tip is a follow-up to “Using a Split Mandrel for Finishing Fabricated Round Bezels,” which showed you how to modify a standard split mandrel to make an effective holding device to finish several fabricated…

Video
Avoid Stone Loss with Quality Assurance Benchmarks

Stone loss can be avoided. Inspecting each piece and comparing it against established benchmarks for signs of vulnerability in normal wear gives the jeweler/manufacturer an opportunity to address potential problems before jewelry is…

Video
Tube Setting Tutorial

Melissa Muir demonstrates and walks you through how to create a tube setting. For more tips and tutorials visit, http://design.kcjewelbox.com…

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Ballerina Ring

Short preview of my DVD Ballerina Ring, which depict the process of fabrication Ballerina style ring.

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Use a Split Mandrel for Finishing Round Bezels

A bench jeweler typically uses a split mandrel to sand and finish the inside of a ring. Various grits of abrasive papers can be cut to size and inserted into the slit of the mandrel, where they are held by friction during the rotary filing process.…

Video
Use Vector Tightening to Overcome

Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to both the gem and the setting. A regular inspection of jewelry can catch this problem in its early stages, before too much damage is done. Vector tightening prong-set stones is…

Video
BLUE LAGUNA !

Static jewelry , showing an idilic picture of a life we all wish to have ….This is dedicated to my very best friend Keith Jerome Biodrowski .

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Stone setting in metal clay

A Beads Baubles and Jewels project. Learn how to do stone setting in metal clay and take your jewelry to the next level. For more projects and jewelry-making know-how, visit us at http://forum.riogrande.com/ or visit http://www.riogrande.com/…

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Coronet Cluster

Short preview of my new DVD showing how to construct Coronet Cluster.

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Trellis 4-prong head

In this video I go over the designing of a 4 prong trellis type head using Matrix software.

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Easy Setting

Luis Moreno demonstrate how to fabricate a wire bezel for faceted pear shape amethyst…http://www.youtube.com/user/luis67813?feature=mhw5…

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jewellery school perseo

La scuola professionale “Perseo”: l’unico in Italia per la gioielleria, dove i proprietari sono tutti artigiani-artisti. Nato a Firenze nel 1998, una associazione dedicata all’insegnamento della cultura…

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Eternity Band with Matrix@

Using a builder tool we will make an eternity band. Then, we will alter it so the stones don’t go all the way around.

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Matrix@4 prong gallery head

Creating a 4 prong gallery head using Matrix@ software. Easy import of stone and head builder technology to complete setting in a flash!…

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Four Prong Gallery Head

A simple 4 prong gallery head made using Rhinoceros@ by McNeel and Associates and presented by www.thejewelrycadinstitute.com…

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Making a Three Stone Ring – Part 2

Setting the Stones – Setting round gemstones in four prong crowns, in this 3 stone ring made with finding from Southeastern Findings. (sefindings.com) Basic Diamond Setting procedures demonstrated.

Video
A beautiful Crucifix

A beautiful Crucifix , made by punching gold sheet on a lead block. Incredible look of a casting item .Old oak wood cross support with diamonds and Emeralds. hand made , one of a kind.

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Big Turquoise pendant – Part 4

How is made: a big Turquoise pendant using only 4.9 grams of 14k gold and hollow technique. Good project for a smart apprentice .Hand made.

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Big Turquoise pendant – Part 3

How is made: a big Turquoise pendant using only 4.9 grams of 14k gold and hollow technique. Good project for a smart apprentice .Hand made.

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Big Turquoise pendant – Part 2

How is made: a big Turquoise pendant using only 4.9 grams of 14k gold and hollow technique. Good project for a smart apprentice .Hand made.

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Big Turquoise pendant – Part 1

How is made: a big Turquoise pendant using only 4.9 grams of 14k gold and hollow technique. Good project for a smart apprentice .Hand made.

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Turquoise Pendant – Part 3

How is made a nice and simple Turquoise gold pendant using only 2,5 gr of gold and basic jewelry tools. A nice project for a smart apprentice . Handmade.

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Turquoise Pendant – Part 2

How is made a nice and simple Turquoise gold pendant using only 2,5 gr of gold and basic jewelry tools. A nice project for a smart apprentice. Handmade.

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Turquoise Pendant – Part 1

How is made a nice and simple Turquoise gold pendant using only 2,5 gr of gold and basic jewelry tools. A nice project for a smart apprentice. Handmade.

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Set Carmen – Part 3 – the clip

How it’s made a set of hollow jewelry, composed by bracelet, necklace, clip , earrings and ring . 14k yellow gold and good quality CZ stones. Hand made…

Video
Cabochon Ruby Ring

How is made a simple stone setting ring using 14k white gold and a synthetic ruby .Hand made forged.

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Wide Bracelet

How is made a wide , wonderful bracelet, every woman dreams to wear it …Hollow technique. Hand made .

Video
The smallest cello

How is made a small gold cello pendant, a beautiful gift for a musician lady ……

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Stone Set Earings – Part 2 ( The ring and the Pandent )

How it’s made the ring and pendant set to the STONE SETTING EARRINGS , using white and yellow gold and only basic jewelry tools. Analog VHS video source, sorry for the quality . Hand made. Many thanks to Rio Grande Team for their moral support,…

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3 Bars pendant

Showing the pendant of the 3 BARS series…It will come the bracelet, soon.. Hand made .

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3 Bars Ring – Part 2

How it’s made: a modern style hollow gold ring with 50 stones set white gold insertion. Hand made.

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3 Bars Ring – Part 1

How it’s made: a modern hollow ring , using 14k yellow gold and 50 diamonds set in white gold. Hand made.

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Euro Cufflinks

How it’s made a couple of funny gold cuff links showing the Euro (money) symbol. Hollow technique, hand made.

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Enter the Dragon

How it’s made an oriental style gold Dragon pendant having 450 stones set… Hand made.

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Moissanites Set

How is made a 14k white gold jewelry set, using synthetic Moissanite stones. Hand made .

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Diamond Curved Ring

How it’s made a simple , nice looking hollow gold ring, with a marquise cut diamond, set in white gold. Hand made.

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Citrine Ring

How is made a beautiful ring with an octagon Citrine , using the hollow technique. Hand made.

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Cleaning Colored Stone Jewelry

Many of the Colored Stones we set in jewelry cannot be cleaned with an Ultrasonic or Steam Cleaner. This video shows safe and effective methods of cleaning them. For more articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStonesetting.com or http://BenchJewelersNetwork.com……

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Lapis ring repair

Cutting, fitting and polishing a replacement Lapis Lazuli inlay for a ring repair job…

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V-Tip Pliers

Need to make a V-Tip Prong? This video shows how to alter a pair of pliers to make V-Tip Prongs easily at your bench. For more articles on jewelry making go to: http://GuideToJewelryMaking.com or http://BenchJewelersNetwork.com……

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Retrieving Stones from Ultrasonic

Lost a stone in your Ultrasonic? This video tip shows a creative tool you can make for retrieving stones from the bottom of your ultrasonic cleaner tank. For more articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStonesetting.com or http://BenchJewelersNetwork.com……

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Graver Preparation

This is a section taken from ‘The Art of Setting Princess Cuts with Fancy Cut Applications’. – a new video/dvd package presented by New Approach School for Jewelers instructed by Blaine Lewis directed by Christopher Mendola…