Metal Forming
Metal forming is a basic jewelry making skill. Our articles cover topics from calculating the amount of metal a project needs to hammering techniques.
How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain
I took in a broken hollow rope chain bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet had caught on a desk...
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Carat Gold Solders for Jewellery Making
In many countries, regulations govern the caratage of gold solders used to make jewellery and, with few exceptions, gold solder...
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Dealing with Fire Scale
Fire scale or fire stain is a reddish purple toned 'bloom' or 'stain' that appears on silver/copper alloys such as...
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950 Palladium: Custom Made Components
When making custom jewelry with any alloy, certain components within the piece are often hand made to enhance the final...
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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword
Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as...
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Platinum Alloys – Features & Benefits
In this presentation I attempted to provide you with information on platinum alloys to help you make an informed decision...
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Understanding the Working Titanium
Because titanium behaves somewhat differently than the standard metals in the goldsmith's workshop some special attention to its working is...
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3 Ways to Use 2-Part Epoxy Resins
Available in a wide variety of formulas, epoxy resins are used in jewelry making as adhesives, as coatings, and for...
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Textile Techniques in Jewelry Making
Fabrics and precious metals would seem to be total opposites, like hot and cold or yin and yang. However, despite...
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Introduction to Weaving Metal
Textile techniques are traditionally worked with fibers such as linen, cotton and silk. However, they can also be applied to...
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Basic Filing Techniques
Over the years, bad habits creep into our work procedures. Periodical review of our techniques is needed to assure us...
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950 Palladium Bench Guide
The palladium bench guide reviews the working characteristics of palladium for the jewelry bench staff and provides an overview of...
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The Plique a Jour Technique with Torch
Plique-a-jour, in French, means "applied to carved spaces" or "membrane where daylight passes through". The 'plique-a-jour' enameled jewelry is endowed...
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The Art of Anticlastic Raising
Transforming a single sheet of metal into an undulating organic form using only a hammer and stake is the art...
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Copper, Brass and Bronze Advanced Etching
This method of etching uses a prepared ferric chloride solution which also contains hydrochloric acid. This 'etchant' is not a...
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Additive Manufacturing in the Jewelry Scene
Did you ever imagine you'd see the day when a finely woven mesh bracelet with thousands of tiny links could...
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Platinum Jewelry Advanced Joining Techniques
Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewelry production. Therefore it is useful to know, what...
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Damascus and Pattern Welding
True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or...
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Manufacturing Mokume Gane Jewelry
Mokume gane translated from Japanese means "wood eye metal." This rare metal lamination process was developed and used by Japanese...
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Chain and Bracelet Catches 1
The first requirement of all catches is that they secure neckpieces and bracelets in such a way that they will...
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Scoring and Bending Procedures
Silicon carbide separating discs are superb for scoring metal for bending, particularly when the metal sheet is less than 4...
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Tips and Tricks for Scoring Metal
Scoring metal is incredibly important for custom jewelry construction. It enables you to reduce the number of parts in a...
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Metal Spinning Part 2: Techniques
This article is the second of a three-part series on Metal Spinning by James Seavey discussing the techniques in developing...
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A New Platinum Sterling Silver
It took about two months of experimentation to get the formulas for Platinum Sterling Silver just right - Robinson created...
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Bi-Metal Casting to Titanium
Titanium and the other refractory metals other the metalsmith a new range of exotic colors - colors that are beautiful...
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Basic Sawing Techniques
In this article, we will continue our Back to Basics Series with an article on Sawing techniques.
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 1
Granulation is the process of fusing tiny metal spheres of silver or gold, in a decorative pattern, to a surface...
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Metal Conversion Chart
The metal conversion chart below will help you determine the amount of metal needed to create a piece of jewelry...
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De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys
Sterling silver alloys typically contain about 7.5 percent copper, an addition that not only provides strength to the otherwise pure...
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Casting an Orchid Flower
Everybody scampers for executing orders in a rush against all odds to satisfy customers or - if you'#39;re lucky -...
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Scoring and Bending
Scoring and bending is one of the most important ways of constructing jewellery. Scoring is a method of obtaining very...
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How to Resize Platinum Rings
This article offers instructions on how to resize platinum rings whether for a size smaller or bigger, as well as,...
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950 Palladium: White Metal Alloys
Of late, an increasing number of white precious metal alloys have been introduced into the jewelry marketplace in answer to...
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Steps on Making a T-Fold Boat Fold
The boat fold branch of T-folds is an interesting avenue. It permits you to have a curving, concave table, and...
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Learning Metalsmithing Process
An art school is in some ways a difficult place to learn to be a metalsmith. Traditional systems of industry...
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Designing Contemporary Flatware
No single item is more used yet more neglected than flatware. It is used in one form or another by...
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Basic Jewelry Construction and Soldering Principles
A short review of construction and soldering principles would be a good idea at this point. They're fairly basic. Principles...
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Anodizing Aluminum
While I was in graduate school at San Diego State University I became interested in the anodizing process. I had...
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The Seven Korean Metalsmiths
Five thousand years of Korean goldsmithing was interrupted from 1913 to 1953 due to the Japanese invasion and the Korean...
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Metal Spinning Part 3: Tooling
As skill develops in spinning, it becomes more important to have a sense of what forms can be produced. To...
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Making a Metal Brooch Frame
This is a metal frame for a brooch which can be made without any soldering. Findings can be glued or...
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Ancient Etruscan Metalsmiths
Looking down the long corridors of time, the ancient Etruscans emerge as a powerful people whose economic and social development...
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Multi-Metal Lamination
Multi-metal Lamination is a type of 'faux' married metal which produces a freer, more 'painterly' effect than the hard-edge, highly...
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950 Palladium: Setting Fabrication
This simple pendant design will be made with 950 palladium wire. Tack-welding technology will be used to temporarily hold the...
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Rendering Design and Process
This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal...
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The Creation of White Gold
White gold presents unique challenges. Who among us has not struggled with white gold at one time or another? Some...
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Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire
Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire - looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22...
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950 Palladium: Fabrication and Assembly
This article covers methods and techniques for hand fabrication, soldering and assembly for a custom designed 950 palladium and cultured...
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Roll Printing Technique
Roll printing, or texture transfer, has been around a long time. The ancient Greeks and Romans used various dies and,...
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The Work of Michael Boyd
Jewelry artist Michael Boyd fills his cup with newfound forms and shapes. Well known for his contemporary roll-on cuff bracelets...
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950 Palladium: Selling Points
Designers and manufacturers have embraced 950 palladium alloys for a variety of jewelry manufacturing products. At the recent JA Jewelry...
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Fit to be Sized
Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see...
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Hermann Jünger: German Goldsmith
From 1988 to 1989, German goldsmith Hermann Jünger was celebrated in his native country with a major retrospective of his...
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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler
I first discovered Allan Adler's Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my...
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Heat-Induced Web Textures on Anodized Aluminum
In late 1981, I began working with anodized aluminum, drawn to its light weight, availability and low cost. In developing...
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The Art of Doublée Making
Historically, a wide range of techniques has been used to clad or coat silver or base metals with gold. These...
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Basic Chasing Tools
As well as being used for chasing they may also be used as punches to make textures. A stamp or...
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Exhibition of Contemporary Japanese Metalwork
Quoting the scholar, Nyozekan Hasegawa, Masataka Ogawa Calls Japan the country of "the culture of hands." Over the centuries, no...
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How to Make a Pewter Sake Cup
Pewter, an alloy of tin, antimony, and copper, dominated European tableware for half a millennium until it was eclipsed by...
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How to Hammer Metal
Stand straight, facing the work. Once you get yourself into this correct body posture, use your feet to move yourself...
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Benchtop Hydroflux Welders
Connections are an important part of jewelry manufacturing. We make them with suppliers, with retailers, even with the people who...
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Avoiding Melting Soldered Seams
Soldering is a delicate and sometimes difficult process especially when you need to solder very close to a previous solder...
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950 Palladium: Manufacturing Tips and Techniques
The "other white metal" is making its presence known and it wont be long before light, bright and white 950...
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Aluminum & Aluminum Anodizing
This article is based on technical information taken from my personal notes and experiences, shared information from the Penland Anodizing...
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Firescale Prevention During Vacuum Casting
Firescale has been the scourge of sterling silver casters since the first silver was poured into a mold. It has...
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All About Jump Rings
Jump rings may be made most easily by using a small hand drill with various sizes of mandrel. Take a...
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Making Silver Whistles
Okay, so this is a bit esoteric. I mean, how many people do you know that make silver whistles. It...
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How to Make a Plique a Jour Fairy
This is a HIDI, (How I Do It). It is not the only way to make a piece like this,...
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How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames
For the illusion of "floating objects" Helen I. Driggs shares her technique, a step by step guide, on how to...
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Laser Welding Channel Repair
In previous articles we have looked into the "art" of prong repair using the laser (Full Prong Replacement and Tipping...
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Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay
The use of area inlay, called damascening or woven inlay, is common in the ancient metalwork of Iran, India, Japan,...
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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity
Richard Reinhardt's best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in...
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Helen Shirk: Patterns of Growth
Last fall, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, Tennessee hosted a retrospective of the work of Helen Shirk. Nearly...
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Technical Briefs: Dealing with Firescale
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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Manufacturing a Free-Form Pendant
This article features the manufacturing steps for a one-of-a-kind free-form pendant designed and created by Barney Jette. The center stone...
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Bypass Shank Ring Assembly
Rings with by-pass shanks are right hand and left hand specific and are not interchangeable. When creating a ring with...
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950 Palladium: Laser Welding Techniques
According to Frank McAllister, the quantity of individual pieces of jewelry made from 950 palladium has surpassed the same for...
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Master Metalsmith Robert von Neumann
This article was completed just weeks before Robert von Neumann's accidental fall and subsequent death on April 23, 1984.
Books...
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The Art of Gold
'The Art of Gold,' curated by Michael Monroe, is the first major survey of contemporary American goldsmithing. The traveling exhibition...
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Forged Ring Shank
This article describes step by step instructions how forged ring shank is done as described by Bradney W. Simon.
For...
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Architectural Portraits of Vicki Ambery-Smith
For nearly 30 years, Ambery-Smith has been using architecture as an inspiration for her work. Her name has become synonymous...
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Key Metal Forming Terms
Some of the nomenclature used in forming will be familiar but some might be new. Air pocket, Anticlast, Axis, Axial...
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950 Palladium: Manufacturing Methods
Palladium, long used as a luxurious jewelry metal, has recently experienced renewed interest largely due to its purity, natural white...
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Precious Metal Refining
The principle of this ancient, valued procedure is described here because of its historical interest, and with the thought that...
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Claus Bury Architectonic Propositions
Claus Bury's rejection of his immediate past, a long standing European tradition in goldsmithing, and his defection to the fine...
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The Metal Shop Tin Men
Metal shop tin men seem to be as American as L. Frank Baum's tale of Dorothy and company in the...
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Dirk Van Erp: Arts & Crafts Coppersmith
Due to a recent comprehensive exhibition at the San Francisco Craft & Folk Art Museum, we reintroduce to our readers...
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Pat Pruitt’s Stainless Steel Jewelry
Pat Pruitt of Paguate, New Mexico, has been working with stainless steel for over a decade. Three years ago, he...
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950 Palladium: Finishing Procedures
Practicing specific procedures for pre-finishing and polishing of 950 palladium will make a stunning difference in the final presentation of...
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Master Metalsmith John Prip
One observation on the career of John Prip (more often called Jack) is the way in which the man and...
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The Jewelry of Steff Korsage
Jewelry artist Steff Korsage followed her own determined path to find her own distinct voice, making hollow forms from metal...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 2
Granulation involves placing and fusing tiny balls of silver on the surface of the backsheet in a preplanned design. The...
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Tricks for Hollow Rings with Miniature Stakes
Make the inner band the desired size first. 18 or 20 gauge is about right. Next make the bezel or...
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950 Palladium: Successful Design Considerations
Well designed 950 palladium jewelry plays to the strengths of this unique metal -- the aesthetics of its light, bright,...
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CAD/CAM: Creating a Class Ring – Part 1
Advanced Jewelry Technologies (owned by this author) and Rio Grande are introducing a new CAD CAM system designed to make...
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950 Palladium: Superior White Color
Striking differences between elements such as color, tone, texture, reflection, refraction, pattern and shape create contrast. Contrast not only enhances...
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American Holloware Changing Criteria
The expressions which have come to identify the pre- and post-World War II generations - Me decade, suburban frontiersmen, spoiled...
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950 Palladium Bridal Jewelry Manufacturing
Retailers have been converting bridal inventories from white gold to palladium as manufacturers expand the selection of new palladium jewelry...
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Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression
Creativity is problem-solving, a skill based on the conscious and/or unconscious recombination and juxtaposition of information derived from diverse sources...
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Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade
The word "technology" is defined as the totality of the means employed to provide the objects necessary for sustenance and...
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950 Palladium: Stock Mountings and Findings
The reintroduction of white, bright and light palladium for use in the jewelry industry has quickly introduced an expanding assortment...
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950 Palladium: Casting Procedures
With the jewelry industrys acceptance and increased use of new 950 palladium alloys for jewelry design and manufacturing, its fundamental...
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Argentium Sterling Silver
Standard sterling silver is not a perfect material to work with firescale adds extra production costs and the tarnishing characteristic...
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James Evans Jewelry & Small Objects
This article is a review on the Jewelry & Small Objects Exhibition by James Evans held at the Prime Canadian...
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950 Palladium: Gemstone Setting
Setting gemstones in 950 palladium alloys is a bench jeweler'#39;s dream. Stone setters will agree that the combination of palladium'#39;s...
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Gary Griffith’s Jewelry and Constructions
When Gary Griffith wrote this poetic meditation (see below) on the status of his work for an exhibition at the...
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950 Palladium: Fabricating Custom Earrings
This article examines manufacturing procedures used to hand fabricate 950 palladium earrings. These custom earrings designed by Lainie Mann feature...
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Towards a New Iron Age Exhibition
Three weeks before "Towards A New Iron Age" was to open at the Mint Museum in Charlotte, North Carolina, it...
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Randy Long: Works in Metal
This article is a review on the Works In Metal Exhibition by Randy Long held at the Fine Arts Gallery,...
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Organic Geometric Bracelet
Always preferring a combination of metals in her jewelry, Sydney Lynch of Sydney Lynch Jewelry Inc. in Lincoln, Nebraska, discovered...
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Book Review – Beginner’s Guide to Enamelling
The book is based on a workshop for beginners given by the author some years ago called 'The Second Coat'....
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950 Palladium: Unique Manufacturing Process
This Unique Settings ring is an excellent design for palladium with heavy, low-profile prongs for the 1.50 carat center diamond,...
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Small Scale Double Making Procedures
Double is a German word of french origin meaning rolled gold or gold fill material. I use it for the...
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The Representation in Contemporary Metals
My recollection of the first piece of metalwork I owned is of a pin consisting of two poodles connected by...
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Gorham Masterpieces in Metal Exhibition
Gorham Company was 45 years old when its 2,000-ounce "Century Vase" celebrating the nation's centennial won great acclaim at the...
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Resizing Damaged Rings
This page provides some helpful tips when it comes to resizing damaged rings with stones. Read on for more.
When...
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Doneghy Collection of Southwest Indian Silver
At a time when the country is still reeling from the vogue for Indian jewelry displayed around the necks of...
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Masterpiece in Metal by Adolphe Himmel
Among the most distinguished known surviving pieces of New Orleans-made silver is this tureen made by Adolphe Himmel. With its...
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Ensuring the Best Refining Experience
Today's record metals prices have probably encouraged you to be more diligent than ever about capturing every last bit of...
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Alternative Metalsmith Pat Flynn
There is something of the alchemist's magic in Pat Flynn. Like those artful wizards of long ago, he changes common...
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Michael David Sturlin’s Two Strand Crocheted Chain
With the quartz as the central focal point of the "Reflecting Pond Necklace," Sturlin had to design a chain that...
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Jewelry Designs: Athena Pendant
This gemstone-encrusted shield is named in honor of Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom and warfare who was worshiped as...
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CAD/CAM: Modeling Project in JewelSpace
CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Design and Manufacturing) is bringing a new efficiency and profitability to the jewelry workplace. Who is better...
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Recent Sightings: Metal Book Art
This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named "Recent Sightings" and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the...
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Master Metalsmith Dorothy Sturm
Entering the enameling studio, one is struck by its openness. Light fills the space. Shelves are lined with organic vessel...
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Master Metalsmith Robert Montgomery
Robert Montgomery surrounds himself in a silent optimism that does not simply ignore adversity, but rises above it. His generous...
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950 Palladium and Tahitian Pearl Earrings
These 950 Palladium earrings were designed by Tom McLaughlin of Lennons Jewelers, Syracuse, NY. The top portion of the design...
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Jonathan Bonner: Whimsy and Vision
Jonathan Bonner is a pleasant young man with a quick smile and an easygoing manner. If you saw him in...
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Art Toys for Adult Toddlers
One can get tired of it all and want to be entertained, but the media outlets for distraction can look...
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The Contemporary American Custom Goldsmithing
About five years ago, Robert Fairbank, John Reynolds and I created a "living entity" called Goldsmiths 3 in Concord, Massachusetts....
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Jewelry Designs: Titan Pendant
Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece...
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950 Palladium: 22K Granulation Wedding Band
This band was designed and rendered using Gemvision Matrix jewelry
design software. The 22-karat granulation beads measure
approxiametely 1.0 millimeter...
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Lois Betteridge: Stretching Material Limits
The core of life's work in fine artisanry is the unfolding of a personal style within the cultural milieu of...
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Fads and Fallacies: Pocket Knives
The term fashion does not immediately bring to mind knives. But wait! The 1895 Montgomery Ward & Co. catalog offered...
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Martha Glowacki & Fields of Reference
Martha Glowacki's works are sculptural abstractions on the theme of landscape. They demonstrate her interest in the imposition of order...
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950 Palladium: Making a 3-Stone Ring
When heated to high heat soldering temperatures, some 950 palladium alloys will develop a bluish-purple surface discoloration. It is easily...
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Bladed Sargasso Server by Andy Cooperman
Andy Cooperman's Sargasso Server, a contemporary sterling silver fish slice, evokes life in the sea. The blade resembles a squid's...
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Alexandra Hart – Crowning Achievement
Putting a spin on tradition, Alexandra Hart of Alexandra Hart in San Diego crafted Broollopskronan, or Bridal Crown, a regal...
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The Creation of The Quickening
In the early 1980’s, I made a drawing based on the theme of transformation, a sudden, intuitive grasp of reality...
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Common FAQs for Metals Suppliers
Behold the metals supplier, lord of all things shiny. He fills your crucible with casting grain and makes sure youre...
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Alishan Halebian’s Imperfect Perfection
Alishan Halebian’s sphere is a metaphor for light and life. Beginning with the concept of a sphere, Alishan Halebian of...
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Jewelry Designs: Maya Pendant
Welcometo Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece ofjewelry...
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Jewelry Designs: Hope Pendant
Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece...
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Learning Metalwork from Shumei Tanaka
I stood on Kawaramachi Street in downtown Kyoto. Kyoto, capital of Japan, home of the emperor from 794 to 1868,...
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CAD/CAM: Creating a Class Ring – Part 2
These step-by-step instruction manual guides the process (see procedure for making the class ring). With a core product to produce,...
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Jewelry Designs: Raindrops Pendant
Welcome to Stacey Rhodes Jewelry Designs, where we will detail all of the steps involved in adding a new piece...
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How to use rolling mills No.3
How to use rolling mills
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1984 Metals Invitational Exhibition
This article features the Metals Invitational Exhibition held at the Southwest Texas State University on February 15-March 8, 1984 by...
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