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Mark B. Mann

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Mark B. Mann

Article
10 Key Ingredient of Retail Success

After 30 years in the jewelry industry working as a bench jeweler, sales professional, manager and owner, Michael Gerwig had a very clear image of how he wanted to establish and build his new store in Fayetteville, AR. He envisioned Michael-Seigler…

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22K Gold Granulation on Turquoise Earrings

Featured are the materials for turquoise, platinum and 22-karat gold granulation earrings. The turquoise is 10.25 millimeters round and will be bezel set. The platinum is Pt-900-Ir, a platinum and iridium alloy. Once the platinum fabrication…

Article
3M Bur and Polish Wheels

3M XR wheels, formerly known as XK wheels are ideal for sprue removal and smooth deburring with minor surface reduction. A channel can be created in the wheel for repetitive multiple part processing. They replace stone wheels, have superior…

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3M Radial Bristle Discs Proficiency Advantage

3M Radial Bristle Discs were introduced to the jewelry industry in 2000. Additional discs and end brushes have been added to the selection and over time and with the extensive selection I’ve reinvented how I semi-finish castings and perform…

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950 Palladium and Tahitian Pearl Earrings

These 950 Palladium earrings were designed by Tom McLaughlin of Lennons Jewelers, Syracuse, NY. The top portion of the design is bead set with small round brilliant diamonds on one side. When worn, the bottom portion swivels and is bead set…

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950 Palladium Bench Guide

The palladium bench guide reviews the working characteristics of palladium for the jewelry bench staff and provides an overview of the unique advantages and benefits of palladium jewelry for managers, sales professionals and consumers.…

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950 Palladium Bridal Jewelry Manufacturing

Retailers have been converting bridal inventories from white gold to palladium as manufacturers expand the selection of new palladium jewelry designs. In addition to stocking palladium pieces, they have been custom making bridal jewelry…

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950 Palladium: 22K Granulation Wedding Band

This band was designed and rendered using Gemvision Matrix jewelry
design software. The 22-karat granulation beads measure
approxiametely 1.0 millimeter and have a small space between them.
The 22-karat granulation…

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950 Palladium: Casting Procedures

With the jewelry industrys acceptance and increased use of new 950 palladium alloys for jewelry design and manufacturing, its fundamental to have a general understanding of related casting procedures. In this installment of the 950 palladium…

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950 Palladium: Custom Made Components

When making custom jewelry with any alloy, certain components within the piece are often hand made to enhance the final product. In the two 950 palladium pieces featured in this article, a handmade chain and a bracelet catch are custom made…

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950 Palladium: Fabricating Custom Earrings

This article examines manufacturing procedures used to hand fabricate 950 palladium earrings. These custom earrings designed by Lainie Mann feature cultured mabe pearls and pink sapphires set into hand formed and fabricated 950 palladium.…

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950 Palladium: Finishing Procedures

Practicing specific procedures for pre-finishing and polishing of 950 palladium will make a stunning difference in the final presentation of this fine jewelry product.
finishing palladium This 950 Pd wedding band design was made…

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950 Palladium: Gemstone Setting

Setting gemstones in 950 palladium alloys is a bench jeweler’#39;s dream. Stone setters will agree that the combination of palladium’#39;s malleability, superior strength and the near absence of memory (spring-back) when it is bent or…

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950 Palladium: Laser Welding Techniques

According to Frank McAllister, the quantity of individual pieces of jewelry made from 950 palladium has surpassed the same for platinum products in the recent months. McAllister, CEO of the Stillwater Mining Co. calculated this based upon…

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950 Palladium: Making a 3-Stone Ring

When heated to high heat soldering temperatures, some 950 palladium alloys will develop a bluish-purple surface discoloration. It is easily removed by briefly and mildly heating the piece with a neutral flame. When palladium is heated to…

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950 Palladium: Manufacturing Methods

Palladium, long used as a luxurious jewelry metal, has recently experienced renewed interest largely due to its purity, natural white color and affordable pricing. Modern 950 palladium alloys containing various trace elements are superior…

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950 Palladium: Manufacturing Tips and Techniques

The “other white metal” is making its presence known and it wont be long before light, bright and white 950 palladium products find their way to your workbench, either as merchandise from your store or customers jewelry taken in for service…

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950 Palladium: Selling Points

Designers and manufacturers have embraced 950 palladium alloys for a variety of jewelry manufacturing products. At the recent JA Jewelry Show in New York, most prominent among the new 950 palladium products were bridal lines featuring a…

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950 Palladium: Setting Fabrication

This simple pendant design will be made with 950 palladium wire. Tack-welding technology will be used to temporarily hold the prong wires prior to soldering to the lower bezel gallery wire. The trillion shaped Danburite weighs 6.4 carats…

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950 Palladium: Stock Mountings and Findings

The reintroduction of white, bright and light palladium for use in the jewelry industry has quickly introduced an expanding assortment of palladium stock items offered in a variety of palladium alloys. It is very important to know about the…

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950 Palladium: Successful Design Considerations

Well designed 950 palladium jewelry plays to the strengths of this unique metal — the aesthetics of its light, bright, white color, weight and ‘#39;feel’#39;. It’#39;s a joy to create a beautiful piece of jewelry which delights the wearer,…

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950 Palladium: Superior White Color

Striking differences between elements such as color, tone, texture, reflection, refraction, pattern and shape create contrast. Contrast not only enhances the qualities of each juxtaposed element, but can also create a pleasing balance…

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950 Palladium: Unique Manufacturing Process

This Unique Settings ring is an excellent design for palladium with heavy, low-profile prongs for the 1.50 carat center diamond, ample wall thickness for setting the baguettes and supporting the overall structure and sufficient room for…

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950 Palladium: White Metal Alloys

Of late, an increasing number of white precious metal alloys have been introduced into the jewelry marketplace in answer to industry cries for a true white counterpart to the ever popular yellow gold. The search has been on for a workable white…

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Award Winning Cufflinks by Bill Holman

These cufflinks designed by Bill Holman were award winners in the AGTA 2004 Spectrum design competition. They are 18-karat yellow gold and feature Drusy agates with a 24-karat deposition layer over the exposed crystal formation. The small…

Article
Bracelet Shortening and Reassembling

This Charles and Colvard created moissanite (hereafter referred to as moissanite) and two-tone karat gold in-line bracelet requires shortening by two links. The bracelet is held together by a heavy link-wire that’s wrapped around an open…

Article
CAD/CAM and Expertise of David Nytch

David Nytch, proprietor of West ‘ Co. an independently owned jewelry store in Webster, NY is changing the way customers see his business. Nytch had observed that independently owned stores are often regarded by consumers as service centers…

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CAD/CAM Design and Model Making Services

Retailers seeking designers and model makers for fulfilling custom orders or for developing new designs exclusive to their inventories have a growing variety of options available to them. Companies providing these services through Computer…

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CAD/CAM Wedding Set Finishing and Setting

Computer aided design (CAD) was used to develop three designs in multiple views to show the customer. After the design was selected, the wax was milled and the ring was cast, pre-finished, set and polished. Foredom tools, equipment and accessories…

Article
CAD/CAM: Passion and Innovation

Greg Stopka and his wife Lee began JewelSmiths 18 years ago with a belief they could succeed by providing jewelry repair and restoration directly to consumers – with no inventory. Dean Stopka (right), Gregs brother joined the couple 12 years…

Article
Channel Setting Tools Designed For Wax

Stone-in-place casting is growing in practice with manufacturers and retail manufacturing operations taking advantage of these labor saving techniques. Stone-in-place casting requires gemstones be properly set in the wax model prior…

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Combining Yellow Gold and Palladium

Jewelry designers are discovering that the bright, white color of palladium creates a beautifully distinct contrast to the warm rich hues of yellow gold. Its affordability and light weight can also provide an ample canvas for accents of colored…

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Creating a 950 Palladium and Diamond Ring

This ring design provides an excellent example for gemstone setting and working characteristics of 950 palladium. The superior white color of the alloy, its malleability and overall strength provide a sound and secure setting for the treasured…

Article
Cultured Baroque Pearl Necklace

This story details manufacturing and assembly steps for a cultured baroque pearl necklace with yellow gold design elements. pearl necklace. The featured necklace combines cultured white baroque pearls with cultured naturally colored…

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Custom Antique Coin Pendant

This article features manufacturing steps for a custom designed 14-karat yellow gold and diamond coin pendant. The coin pendant featured in this article was designed and rendered by Lainie Mann using Matrix. It will be cast in two pieces because…

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Custom Designed Wax Carving

This article features the wax carving steps for this custom made pendant designed and created by Bill Holman. The center stone is a one-of-a-kind black drusy quartz carving, is highlighted by red accent gemstones and pave diamonds set in the…

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Customized Stock Earrings

This project features a stock pair of earrings that are customized for cultured pearls. The request was to design earrings that would be unique, modern and functional – within a tight budget. To prepare them for the addition of 22-karat yellow…

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Finishing the Inside of a Platinum Ring

Jeff Mathews has developed a process for polishing the inside of platinum rings using 3M abrasive technology. To illustrate how he performs the job, I follow his procedures using this hand fabricated flat platinum band. Tool and forming marks…

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Fixing Magnetic Finisher with MF610

After several years of use, the small stainless-steel pins in my magnetic finisher had became dark, were stuck together and yielding poor results when tumbling precious metal mountings. Seeking advice for improvement, I turned to Andy Kroungold,…

Article
Fixturing Using Welding Technology

Fixturing is a technique of using tack- and/or pulse-arc welding technology to temporarily position parts prior to soldering, pulse-arc or laser-welding. Repair, reconstruction, assembly, custom manufacturing and mass production…

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Flush Setting Round Brilliant Diamonds in Platinum

Seated at his bench, David Howard, owner of My Jeweler, Inc. in Albuquerque , NM contemplates and prepares his work for the day. Technicians at My Jeweler perform repairs while customers wait in addition to the constant flow of design and custom…

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Foredom AllSet Preparation for Prong Bearings

The Foredom AllSet Master Stone-Setting Kit includes prong, pave, channel-cutting guides and a fixture that attaches it to a Foredom No. 30 handpiece. The kit is capable of quickly being set-up in a multitude of ways to complete a variety of…

Article
Foredom Bench Lathe Kit

Understanding and using updated materials will help you accomplish pre-finishing and finishing requirements professionally and efficiently. Here’s a brief overview of some new and established products.

Article
Foredom Micro Motor Kit

This article features Bill Holman who bezel sets a 2.55 ct. trillion diamond, 0.03 ct. round brilliant diamonds and engraves a platinum ring and matching pendant using Foredom’s Stone Setting and Engraving Micro Motor Kit..

Article
Foredom Milling Assembly for Wax Components

Bill Holman uses modern technology to create his designed line of jewelry featuring Drusy gemstones. Wanting his jewelry designs to be unique but not competitive with the natural beauty of the freeform Drusy gemstones, he creates one-of-a-kind…

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Foredom Redesigned Series SR Flexible Shaft

Foredom has redesigned the popular Series SR Flexible Shaft motor. It has more power/torque and is rated at 1/6 HP versus 1/8 HP of the former series SR and S. It also has 33% more power over the variable speed range from start up to full speed.

Article
Foredom TX Flexshaft

When manufacturing and repairing jewelry products, rotary equipment is essential to the process. Nothing is more frustrating or potentially damaging to the task than equipment that offers less than smooth, reliable and strong performance.…

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Foredom’s New Finishing Products

JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler Linda Steinke uses Foredom’s new pre-finishing wheels and polishing compound to finish fabricated and cast platinum pieces. ‘Using these new products has eliminated the multiple-step process I formerly…

Article
Granulation Using Fusion Welding

This ring is manufactured using Hoover and Strongs 14-karat white gold alloyed with palladium. It was cast using standard casting methods and materials for gold and silver. The pearl post were fabricated and soldered after casting and pre-finishing.…

Article
Hart Jewelers Drive for Growth

Hart Jewelers in Grants Pass, OR has been a family owned store for over 50 years. Owner Tom Hart proclaims, “Our customer is the most important person in our store” and thats clearly apparent in the way the staff interacts with clients, sells…

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How To Avoid Destructive Tack-Welds

As a technical adviser to bench jewelers I often troubleshoot tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc-welding applications. One of the more frequently asked questions is related to what causes destructive tack-welds. Destructive tack-welds fail…

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How to Build Up a Thin Shank

This cultured pearl and diamond 14K yellow gold ring is in for sizing. When the take-in person inspected the ring, they noticed that the top portion of the ring shank had worn thin. The shank has become thin and sharp at the top portion. It will…

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How to Make a Three Stone Dangle Pendant

The assembly of this three stone pendant pendant appears simple but when using traditional methods to position and join the tiny parts it can be tricky and time consuming. Each of the bezel units will be connected by jump rings and will dangle…

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How to Sharpen Drill Bits

Small, fine drill bits used for jewelry making will become dull with normal use. Worn cutting edges make tasks more difficult and time-consuming and can cause costly accidents, including damage to jewelry and gemstones or even injury. Maintaining…

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Installing and Repairing Hinge Rivets

Installing or repairing hinge rivets can be difficult with a torch. Flooding a hinge with solder and permanently joining a link to adjacent links are among the risks when using a torch and solder. Use of the following pulse-arc welding techniques…

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Installing New Tapered Bezels

This ring is in for repair and reconstruction. When it was originally made, 6-prong settings were used to mount the customers diamonds. All prong tops are severely worn and one prong has broken. The customer has requested bezel settings, so…

Article
Jewelers’ Gripping Tools

Euro Tool, Inc. offers a wide variety of innovative and standard holding device’s to make working at the bench easier, safer and more productive. Here’s an overview of a selection.

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Jewelry Design and Manufacturing Process

At GLJW it iss not unusual to see the sales staff wearing jewelers aprons and optivisors at one of the 25 computers showing customers Matrix CAD layouts of a proposed design. Neither is it odd to see customers watching the mill shape their jewelry…

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Jewelry Repairs with ABI Mini Pulse Arc III

This article covers routine repair and assembly projects accomplished using Mini Pulse Arc III. Tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc equipment settings will differ and are based upon the volume, amount of contact and alloy of the material you are…

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Making a 950 Palladium Signet Ring

The natural beauty of this white, bright and light palladium ring is enhanced with hand engraving of initials done in relief. 950 palladium manufacturing methods and techniques covered in this project are:
a) Injection wax preparation…

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Making a Crown Using Welding Technology

David and Diana Howard, owners of My Jeweler, Inc. in Albuquerque , NM recently worked with a local church to design and manufacture a crown to be placed on a popular church icon painting. The churchs parishioners donated jewelry to the cause.…

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Making a Double Domed Pendant

This article covers techniques for making an 18-karat double domed yellow gold pendant. The front side will have a bezel set round brilliant tsavorite garnet. The back side is open and pierced. Tack- and pulse-arc welding technology were…

Article
Making a Pearl and Diamond Ring

This illustration is of a 14-karat white gold ring for three cultured freshwater pearls and two small accent diamonds. After preparing the wax, casting and pre-finishing, the ring was prepared for tack welding. There are 5 parts to be tacked…

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Making a Platinum Wire Setting

These materials are for a platinum pendant and they include wire made of a platinum iridium alloy. This article covers a manufacturing method using tack-welding technology for making the wire setting for a pendant with a movable bail.

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Making a White Gold and Turquoise Cameo Pendant

This article covers techniques for making this custom designed 14-karat white and 22-karat yellow gold granulated pendant for a customers turquoise cameo purchased while traveling overseas. The cameo will be set in a wire loop bezel and…

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Making a Yellow Gold and Platinum Ring

This two-part series highlights tips and techniques, tools and accessories and procedures for custom making the 18 karat yellow gold and platinum ring featured in the counter sketch for a green tourmaline and diamonds.

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Making Custom-Designed Diamond and Tourmaline Earrings

The customer has selected the pair of earrings shown the rough sketch. The top portion is cast, the bottom piece is hand fabricated and the two units are joined by wire links. Materials used in the custom designed earrings include: 14-karat…

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Making Custom-Designed Earrings Using Welding Technology

This custom job of 14 karat yellow gold earrings with diamonds and pink tourmaline is made easy using tack-welding technology. Tacking the pieces prior to soldering enabled me to ensure proper alignment and soldering procedures without…

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Manufacturing a Free-Form Pendant

This article features the manufacturing steps for a one-of-a-kind free-form pendant designed and created by Barney Jette. The center stone is a one-of-a-kind chrysoprase carving by Steve Walters, Ramona, CA and is highlighted by a cultured…

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Manufacturing Mokume Gane Jewelry

Mokume gane translated from Japanese means “wood eye metal”. This rare metal lamination process was developed and used by Japanese craftsmen in the 17th century for the adornment of samurai swords. Today, mokume gane jewelry is growing in…

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Modified Split Mandrel to Bezel-Set Round Stones

This jewelry bench tip is a follow-up to “Modified Split Mandrel for Finishing Round Bezels,” which showed you how to modify a standard split mandrel to make an effective holding device to finish several fabricated bezels of the same dimensions.…

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Moissanite Necklace Repair with Welding Technology

This necklace contains Charles ‘ Colvard created moissanite. It has been mistakenly pulled and a few links have broken. Repairing the links using pulse-arc-welding technology removes the potential to freeze links, reduces the build-up…

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New Efficient Bench Applications

Pre-finishing, finishing, polishing and re-finishing have all been tasks usually done with a flexible shaft at the bench and/or a motor away from the bench. This article features methods and procedures used for a variety of these projects…

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Paul Klecka Joins the Digital Revolution

Without a doubt, jewelry designer Paul Klecka has joined the digital jewelry design revolution. Evolving from a traditional business model wherein his company took orders for his designs, manufactured the product and then shipped to some…

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Pearl Earring Repair Using Mini Pulse III

14-karat yellow gold cultured freshwater pearl and diamond earrings will be repaired as a demonstration of the new Mini Pulse III. The connecting post and dangle jump rings were not soldered when originally made. One of the dangles has become…

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Phillip Voetsch’s Jewelry Design Process

Phillip Voetsch is an accomplished designer and master level bench jeweler, he began using 3D CAD/CAM technology 3 1/2 years ago. With each project, he begins by reviewing the information recorded during the interview, including key information…

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Platinum Ring Sizing and Torch Welding

Sizing and torch welding a platinum ring with diamonds channel set down the shank could be risky to the diamonds. Use of a Pulse-arc Welder for this welding job will eliminate the risk and potential damage.

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Production Methods for Palladium Chain Making

As proudly proclaimed in its name, Balestra 1882 has manufactured high quality gold and platinum chain in Italy since 1882. Now a global organization, its operations have extended far beyond the city of its birth. Last fall, they started researching…

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Prong Setting Round Brilliant Gemstones

For setting round brilliant gemstones in prongs, many setters and bench jeweler generalists use a 90 degree low speed bearing bur to cut a bearing in one prong at a time. This procedure is made easy by using the Foredom AllSet with the easy cut…

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Box Clasp Tongue Repair

This 14-karat yellow gold heavy bracelet chain has a broken tongue at its critical springy location. An ideal method for its repair is a non-torch pulse-arc welding approach so the alloy in the mechanism is not annealed or softened in the process.…

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Closing Chains

This sterling silver chocker chain is handmade from 16 gauge round wire. It has multiple interlocking links. The customer leads a very active lifestyle and has small children so she prefers the links be permanently closed.

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Creating Jewelry

For this project, the No. 1 tip was used with the ABI Pulse Arc Welder. Five tips come with the unit giving the user multiple choices for the wide variety of welding applications commonly encountered by bench jeweler generalists. Periodically,…

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Pearl and Diamond Pendant

This karat gold pendant design calls for several solder joints in close proximity. To facilitate the assembly, I tack and/or pulse-arc-weld the parts prior to soldering to eliminate shifting or dropping off through the soldering process.…

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Ring Prong Replacement

This 14-karat yellow gold, emerald and diamond ring has a broken prong requiring prong replacement. Steece Hermanson will replace the prong and reset the displaced emerald without un-mounting any of the gemstones. For this, he uses the ABI…

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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Sterling Silver Bracelet

To demonstrate how pulse-arc welding performs on sterling silver, this bracelet was cast, finished and assembled without the use of a torch. The six links immediately adjacent to the clasp on the bracelet are made with a common sterling silver…

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Quality Assurance Benchmarks for Jewelers

Fine jewelry represents much more than its trade value in diamonds, gemstones and precious metals. It is a personal representation of the owner’s lifestyle, status, emotion, recognition, commitment and more. That significance only amplifies…

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Reconstructing Earrings Using Welding Technology

These fashion drop earrings contain oval diamonds weighing 1.78 carats. The customer is concerned about loss because of the open design of the ear wires. She would also like the earrings to freely dangle and move when worn. To accommodate this…

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Remount Preparation Using Tack Welding

Tacking settings in location on remounts using tack-welding technology offers the bench jeweler many advantages over traditional assembly methods… Tack-welding provides a temporary working weld of the setting between it and the ring.…

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Repairing a Sterling Silver Shell Cameo Pin

Repairs and alterations of jewelry that has been in families for generations is an ongoing request at retail service departments. These pieces are not of high value, but they have sentimental value to the owner. Often these pieces were not…

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Setting a Three Stone Ring with Foredom Tools

This three stone ring designed by Barney Jette has two flush set trillion sapphire side stones with a total weight of 0.81 carats and a 1.05 carat round brilliant diamond center stone. Jette prepared the wax using build-up techniques and cast…

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Setting and Shank Assemblies

Setting and shank assemblies are routine work in many retail manufacturing jewelry shops. Heres a method for expediting this process using ABI tack-welding technology.

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Steps for Graver Preparation

Gravers are small cutting tools used for stone setting, texturing, de-burring and applying decorative embellishments and traditional hand engraving. Steps required to prepare new gravers include mounting, sizing, shaping, sharpening…

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The Jewelry of Barney Jette

Barney Jette and wife Nancy Ball have built a retail success story,
solely focused on jewelry featuring Jettes design. The brand they
have built is recognized throughout the nation and their reputation
is one that theyve…

Article
Tru-Seat Setting System

Hoover ‘ Strong, Inc. in Richmond, VA provides a line of Tru-Seat settings that include solitaire earrings, pendants and solitaire rings in yellow, white and palladium white gold alloys. By using Tru-Seat mountings and the system outlined…

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Warrior Power Tool System

New patented Warrior Power Tool System kit provides a revolutionary proficiency advantage for bench jewelers and jewelry manufacturers for split-lap abrasive pre-finishing, finishing and polishing.

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Wax Build-Up Procedures

The Foredom Wax Carver (WC-1) is a new wax worker recently made available to the jewelry industry by The Foredom Electric Company. To demonstrate many of its features, Michael Dickey performs a wax build-up project.

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Wax Tools Update

Euro Tool, Inc. has developed five wax tool kits and a cordless wax pen for the overall improvement of wax working projects..

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Welding Technology Tool Modifications Part 1

Proper holding and firm contact between parts during tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc-welding is essential. Aside from pieces not meeting properly, most destructive discharges result from poor holding and/or insufficient contact. A destructive…

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Welding Technology Tool Modifications Part 2

Custom jewelry projects for tack-, fusion-, and pulse-arc-welding sometimes call for special welding tool lead attachments. Bench jewelers often make the required leads using standard bench tools to better hold parts for pre-assembly…