Our palladium fabrication articles cover the material in detail and discuss techniques and tools for working with this popular jewelry metal.
These 950 Palladium earrings were designed by Tom McLaughlin of Lennons Jewelers, Syracuse, NY. The top portion of the design is bead set with small round brilliant diamonds on one side. When worn, the bottom portion swivels and is bead set with small round brilliant diamonds on both sides. The two sides of the bottom portion are separated by 18-karat yellow gold spacers. The diamonds on each side of the bottom portion accent the round Tahitian cultured pearls as they swivel when worn.
The palladium bench guide reviews the working characteristics of palladium for the jewelry bench staff and provides an overview of the unique advantages and benefits of palladium jewelry for managers, sales professionals and consumers. It is intended to serve as a source for information on the most commonly encountered palladium jewelry scenarios and the related materials available in the industry today.
Retailers have been converting bridal inventories from white gold to palladium as manufacturers expand the selection of new palladium jewelry designs. In addition to stocking palladium pieces, they have been custom making bridal jewelry with new palladium alloys. There are several factors responsible for this favorable (re)turn to palladium including.
This band was designed and rendered using Gemvision Matrix jewelry
design software. The 22-karat granulation beads measure
approxiametely 1.0 millimeter and have a small space between them.
The 22-karat granulation beads will be permanently applied by
fusion-welding using the ABI Tack II and the vacuum pump and ring
With the jewelry industrys acceptance and increased use of new 950 palladium alloys for jewelry design and manufacturing, its fundamental to have a general understanding of related casting procedures. In this installment of the 950 palladium jewelry manufacturing series of articles, Teresa Frye, president of TechForm Advanced Casting Technology shares an overview of her companys 950 palladium casting procedures and gives insight into the scientific approach they have undertaken to improve results.
When making custom jewelry with any alloy, certain components within the piece are often hand made to enhance the final product. In the two 950 palladium pieces featured in this article, a handmade chain and a bracelet catch are custom made to compliment the design and finished pieces.
This article examines manufacturing procedures used to hand fabricate 950 palladium earrings. These custom earrings designed by Lainie Mann feature cultured mabe pearls and pink sapphires set into hand formed and fabricated 950 palladium. The materials used in this project include.
This article covers methods and techniques for hand fabrication, soldering and assembly for a custom designed 950 palladium and cultured pearl ring.
Practicing specific procedures for pre-finishing and polishing of 950 palladium will make a stunning difference in the final presentation of this fine jewelry product.
finishing palladium This 950 Pd wedding band design was made using CAD/CAM design and model making technology and features high millgrained edges, textured diagonal grooves and a high polished flat surface. The ring was finished from a rough casting using a progressive abrasive system and limited standard polishing techniques. The pre-finishing and polishing system featured in this article can also be used after sizing any 950 Pd ring.
Setting gemstones in 950 palladium alloys is a bench jeweler’#39;s dream. Stone setters will agree that the combination of palladium’#39;s malleability, superior strength and the near absence of memory (spring-back) when it is bent or formed all set the foundation for success, regardless of the setting style. But without proper design (structural support, sufficient metal, accurate fit, etc.), planning and execution of workmanship, the unique and positive characteristics of palladium cannot be used to the best advantage. More importantly, ignoring the working characteristics of the metal could lead to problems for the jewelry through normal wear, such as mountings becoming misshapen resulting in loss of gemstones. The following review of gemstone setting specifically in palladium alloys presents some jewelry examples for consideration.
According to Frank McAllister, the quantity of individual pieces of jewelry made from 950 palladium has surpassed the same for platinum products in the recent months. McAllister, CEO of the Stillwater Mining Co. calculated this based upon the number of ounces used globally for each alloy. It wont be long before light, bright and white 950 palladium products find their way into your store, either as merchandise from your customers jewelry taken in for service or alteration or work required to customize 950 palladium jewelry from your own inventory.
When heated to high heat soldering temperatures, some 950 palladium alloys will develop a bluish-purple surface discoloration. It is easily removed by briefly and mildly heating the piece with a neutral flame. When palladium is heated to gold soldering temperatures, no surface discoloration occurs.
Palladium, long used as a luxurious jewelry metal, has recently experienced renewed interest largely due to its purity, natural white color and affordable pricing. Modern 950 palladium alloys containing various trace elements are superior to the palladium ruthenium alloys previously available for use in jewelry. The new 950 palladium alloys are:…
The “other white metal” is making its presence known and it wont be long before light, bright and white 950 palladium products find their way to your workbench, either as merchandise from your store or customers jewelry taken in for service or alteration. Notable designers and manufacturers like Frederick Goldman, Scott Kay, and Lieberfarb have incorporated 950 palladium products in their bridal lines for over a year. This installment features information, tips and techniques for working with palladium through a manufacturing sequence required to produce this necklace and earrings.
Designers and manufacturers have embraced 950 palladium alloys for a variety of jewelry manufacturing products. At the recent JA Jewelry Show in New York, most prominent among the new 950 palladium products were bridal lines featuring a wide selection of engagement rings and wedding bands. Even though palladium is a platinum group metal, consumers are largely unfamiliar with the metal. Here are some selling points that will help introduce this lustrous white, bright and light metal during sales presentations.
This simple pendant design will be made with 950 palladium wire. Tack-welding technology will be used to temporarily hold the prong wires prior to soldering to the lower bezel gallery wire. The trillion shaped Danburite weighs 6.4 carats and measures 13.35mm. No commercial settings were available to accommodate this gemstone.
The reintroduction of white, bright and light palladium for use in the jewelry industry has quickly introduced an expanding assortment of palladium stock items offered in a variety of palladium alloys. It is very important to know about the 950 palladium alloy that you are working with and to become familiar with their compatible features. Because the ingredients of 950 palladium alloys vary, so may factors such as color and working characteristics. For the best results when sizing, servicing or building jewelry pieces at the bench, use like materials.
Well designed 950 palladium jewelry plays to the strengths of this unique metal — the aesthetics of its light, bright, white color, weight and ‘#39;feel’#39;. It’#39;s a joy to create a beautiful piece of jewelry which delights the wearer, and promises to remain trouble free for years to come. So here’#39;s a tip: Emphasize the positive qualities of this unique metal in your designs. Whether palladium plays a supporting role to diamonds or fancy gemstones, or takes the spotlight in visual form or tactile comfort, employing its best characteristics in your creations will serve you well in saleable jewelry, customer satisfaction and your bottom line.
Striking differences between elements such as color, tone, texture, reflection, refraction, pattern and shape create contrast. Contrast not only enhances the qualities of each juxtaposed element, but can also create a pleasing balance in a design. Jewelry designs featuring the richness of yellow and the brightness of white metals offer consumers another direction in expanding their jewelry wardrobe. For the jeweler however, creating the intended contrast between yellow and white gold usually involves a matte finish and rhodium plating on the white, with the additional concern for allergic reaction due to the nickel in the alloy. With yellow gold and platinum there is contrast, along with a price tag that is prohibitive to many customers. The clear alternatives are palladium alloys which offer a true white contrast to yellow gold at comparable pricing. Belonging to the platinum group metals, palladium shares the same hypoallergenic characteristics, purity of color and lack of memory (a perfect stone-setting medium) as platinum, though it is lighter in weight and more easily gives way to a bright lustrous finish.
This Unique Settings ring is an excellent design for palladium with heavy, low-profile prongs for the 1.50 carat center diamond, ample wall thickness for setting the baguettes and supporting the overall structure and sufficient room for bead setting the small round diamonds and bright cutting along the sides. This ring mounting is an ideal example for an overview of step-by-step palladium manufacturing techniques.
Of late, an increasing number of white precious metal alloys have been introduced into the jewelry marketplace in answer to industry cries for a true white counterpart to the ever popular yellow gold. The search has been on for a workable white alloy that stays white, is hypoallergenic and priced more agreeably than the often prohibitive platinum. Alloys emerging include mixtures of 50/50 platinum and palladium, 585 platinum with cobalt and copper and several alloy combinations in between. Surveys indicate consumers appreciate the purity of 900 to 950 platinum, and would prefer the purity of a 950 palladium alloy if considering an alternative.
Jewelry designers are discovering that the bright, white color of palladium creates a beautifully distinct contrast to the warm rich hues of yellow gold. Its affordability and light weight can also provide an ample canvas for accents of colored gold without being uncomfortable to wear. More importantly, consumers are delighting in the unique bi- and multi-colored gold and palladium pieces they are offered in increasing number. Possessing the purity and brightness of platinum but with a heft more like gold, palladium is being lauded as ‘#39;the other white metal’#39;.
This ring design provides an excellent example for gemstone setting and working characteristics of 950 palladium. The superior white color of the alloy, its malleability and overall strength provide a sound and secure setting for the treasured gemstone and the diamonds that will last for generations.
The natural beauty of this white, bright and light palladium ring is enhanced with hand engraving of initials done in relief. 950 palladium manufacturing methods and techniques covered in this project are:
a) Injection wax preparation for 950 palladium casting.
b) Filing, sanding and polishing a 950 palladium ring casting with flat surfaces and crisp edges.
c) Relief hand-engraving initials with a stipple finish in the recessed portion.
If you’re just starting to work with palladium or interested in taking the leap, you should know a few critical details about its working characteristics. Palladium isn’t difficult to work with; it’s just different. Combining some gold habits with some platinum habits is the key to using this newly popular white metal at the bench.
Its no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use worldwide shot up by 54 percent, according to Johnson Mattheys Platinum 2006, and this past year has seen a proliferation of articles and seminars about the platinum group metal — specifically 950 palladium — as well as the formation of a new industry group, Palladium Alliance International. Yet with all of that interest has also come questions — about how best to work with the metal, how to market and sell it, and what to expect in the future: Is palladium really here to stay? To offer insights into those issues, MJSA invited several industry experts to share their thoughts on what manufacturers can expect when working with palladium.
In this article Chris Ploof shares tips for sizing, welding, and engraving palladium.
As proudly proclaimed in its name, Balestra 1882 has manufactured high quality gold and platinum chain in Italy since 1882. Now a global organization, its operations have extended far beyond the city of its birth. Last fall, they started researching palladium alloys for jewelry and have begun manufacturing palladium chain. Currently, they offer over 25 different styles of palladium chain in a variety of weights, and sizes. Their factory is capable of processing precious metals from bullion to finished product. Presented here is an overview of their chain manufacturing processes at their facility in Bassano Del Grappa, Italy.
With the high price of gold, jewelry makers are looking to incorporate alternative metals into their lines. I frequently work with palladium and stainless steel in my shop. The following are a few tips and tricks you can use to work more effectively with these metals. Soldering Secrets Whenever I solder palladium and have to forge it afterward, I steer clear of palladium or platinum solders, opting instead for 20 karat white gold hard solder. This enables me to have seams that can withstand the various types of forging I do to combine palladium with other alternative metals, such as stainless steel. If the solder seams are precise and meet well, it is difficult to detect any color difference.
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