Gerry Lewy
With over 40 years experience as a stone setter, Gerry Lewy is known throughout the diamond setting community. Gerry started his 9-year apprenticeship with a jewelry manufacturer and tutored by a gentleman ‘setter’, in Haddon Gardens, London. Gerry has redeveloped himself into more than a master setter, his purpose is now to be a teacher of the art as well.
Contributions From Gerry Lewy
Fishtail Setting Tutorial
Master diamond setter Gerry Lewy shows dying art of making a fish tail setting. Made completely by hand, this is...
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Flat Topped Solitaire Setting
The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard...
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Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel
For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald...
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Gerry Lewy Video F – Bead Setting
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you the technique of bead setting...
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Gerry Lewy Video E – Princess Setting Round Claws – V Shaped Claws – Wedding band
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set a diamond...
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Gerry Lewy Video D – Cluster Setting – Flush Setting
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set gems in...
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Gerry Lewy Video C – Bezel Setting – Channel Setting
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set a diamond...
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Gerry Lewy Video B – Setting a Solitaire – 4 Prong – 6 Prong
Drawing on 40+ years of experience, Gerry Lewy shows you how to set a diamond in 4-prong and 6-prong solitaire...
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Gerry Lewy Video A – Intro – Tool Modification – Skills
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to modify simple, everyday,...
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Setting Stones in Wax
One of the most revolutionary advances in recent years, apart from laser welding, is the method of setting stones in...
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Tube Setting Faceted Stones
When beginning to do tube settings, the first thing anyone should do is buy a "Setters Tube Holder" which appears...
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Bezel Setting Cabochon Stones
One of the most basic designs in stone setting is Bezel Setting. It is rudimentary in its concept, and it...
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Marquise Diamond Setting
This particular setting has two V shaped claws and four regular, holding and protecting claws. I will try to unravel...
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How to Set Baguettes
Baguette stones have four corners and a rather deep pavilion. Because of this you must handle these stones with special...
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Stone Setting Tips
Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on...
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Half-Ground Round Bur
There are times during the setters workday where there is a need for a specific tool, but there nothing is...
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Bead Setting Method – Part 3
In past issues of BENCH magazine, I have dealt heavily on making a bead raiser and using it to bead...
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Grinding and Shaping Onglette Gravers
This article contains the following detailed steps to give you a better understanding why grinding and shaping onglette gravers are...
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Bud Bur Tool
Of all the burs used on a setters bench, my one good true friend is the bud bur. Why? Because...
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Bead Setting Method – Part 1
Any name you wish to put to this method of securing stones works; but how many of you jewelry bench-workers...
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Fish Tail Setting
This wonderful style of setting has been around the world of stone setting for many, many years. As you can...
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Bead Setting Method – Part 2
Now that we have done all the necessary preliminary "raising of beads" and "line-cutting" in the last issue, we are...
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Flush Mount Diamond Setting
Flush setting, or "gypsy setting" as it is sometimes known, is a somewhat exacting and delicate setting technique. The main...
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Diamond Setting Hints
When setting a series of diamonds in a row, I use a 156C and just touch the inside wall of...
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Diamond Setting Applications
What is one of the causes of a "rippling or jagged" effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy...
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Cabochon Stone Full Bezel Setting
One of the most basic designs in stone setting is "Bezel Setting". It is so rudimentary in its concept. It...
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Setting Gemstones in Wax
The one of the most revolutionary advance in recent years, apart from the Laser soldering, is the method of "Setting...
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Setting Baguette Stones
Baguette stones have four corners and a rather deep pavilion. Because of this you must handle these stones with special...
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Recycling High Speed Steel Burs
When I buy my high speed steel, 90 degree, under-cutting burs I always think of the words, "waste not, want...
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Royal Flush Stone Setting
A sign on the side of a plumbers truck read, In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House....
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Claw Setting – Removing The Fear Factor
As we prepare for the upcoming Christmas season, we will be totally inundated with requests to do some repairs or...
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“How to make a Wax-Dob”
Why buy a Wax Dob, if you can make it yourself?
In these many series of "How to" my student...
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Post Bright-Cutting on Bezel wall
This is just a short repeat of a prior video on final clean-up..But this is so much needed to be...
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Bright-Cut inside Bezel setting
This video shows just how the bright-cutting procedure is accomplished. I use only one tool, my "Onglette #2, Right-Sided" graver....
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Designing with CAD
It is here I am showing how fantastic CAD is now helping our jewellery trade. Instead of raising beads on...
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3 Azure video’s
Here is the process on how to cut Azure patterns. These appear underneath the diamond setting portion of a ring,...
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Preparing to drill holes!
Before you start to drill any holes in your new project you 'must' do the following.
Completely measure the thickness...
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“Moving a Hole”
Supposing a designing hole is slightly off-center, how would you 'move' it?
The answer will now be shown without soldering...
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Azure patterns, w/gravers
Here I am explaining how an Azure cut is finished. It is created underneath the hole where the diamond is...
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Drilling Holes in Wax
I need to duplicate a wax form from the original pattern. Here you will see just how easy it can...
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Bright-Cutting, REVIEW!
In this brief video, I show once more how the graver just sails through the silver. Almost like carving into...
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Bright-Cutting extra notes
It is here I am just going over some extra little notes on Bright-cutting.
I might have missed a few....
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#6, Bead-Burnishing, Final Cuts!
In this final video, you will see the stones being finally set. I will be using a Hart-shaped bur..a.k.a. 156C...
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#5, Bright-Cutting with a graver
With a modified Onglette #2, Right-Sided bright cutting blade, I am now shearing off metal to leave a very bright...
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#4..Round bur making beads!
In this very interesting #4 video, I am starting to cut a pattern using a simple #006 round bur to...
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#3- Watch-case on shellac
In this 3rd video, we will use an Onglet #1 graver to do the 'outline' or rough-cutting around the silver...
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Introduction to Line-Cutting
This 2nd video introduces you to "Line-Cutting". It is here we will examine what is involved in basic 'Pre-Cutting' as...
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1-Burs & Gravers for Bright-Cutting
In this first of 6 video's, I explore the varied, but basic tools I will be using.
From the basic...
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Introduction #2. “Cut-down Setting”
Here is an second video on how this remarkable style of setting looks.
It is virtually a skill in all...
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Intro #1 “Cut-Down Setting”
I am showing you what this not-often used setting technique looks like on a ring. As one of my friends...
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Student; Finished setting project.
My student has now finished his first setting project. He is so very happy over his first assignment under my...
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Student setting an Oval stone
My student is now hammering the stone in place. He checks that the Bezel-Wall is now laying on the stone...
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Student setting Bezel
In the first video you will watch how my student set a stone. His attempt was met with great success...
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Close-up of Bright-Cut silver plate
In this second video I show how a simple graver can cut a design.
I show on my shellac stick...
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Graver w/silver plate
In this video you will see just how a little graver can engrave cuts & mini-claws.
These little hand engraved...
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Graver into a wooden handle
The graver is now sitting in it's handle, the jeweler will immerse the hot graver into cold water.
You must...
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Heating a graver
In this video, you can see a graver that is ready to be 'burned' in to a wooden handle. This...
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Princess-Final video
This is the 3rd video on "How to Set a Princess Stone". In this video, all tools are shown in...
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Princess-second video
In this second of three setting demonstrations, you will see the following procedure. I am burring out the inside of...
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Princess-first stage of setting!
Now that you know exactly what tools you need in your bench, we can now start the setting.
Here I...
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“Tools for a Princess”
This is a video showing all the necessary tools, just to set a Princess stone.
Between the selection of round...
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Gypsy Setting-Finish
In this second of two videos just on Gypsy Setting, I demonstrate Bright-cutting inside of the "Gypsy" circle of metal....
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“Gypsy-Start #1”
In this first of 2 videos, I start the drilling with a 156C Under-Cutting bur to make a seat for...
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Grand Tour of My Setting-Bench
This video is the "Grand Tour of My Setting Bench".
I explain all of my carbide burs as they are...
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Hammer & Clamps
In this video, I explain the differences between many hammers & clamps prior to setting any style of ring.
The...
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Gypsy Setting w/diagrams
In this video I explain Gypsy Setting & the many techniques using the Hammer & Carbide burs. I also show...
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Removing gem-stones
In this video, I explore the easy methods of removing gemstones. I instruct how to modify your pliers for this...
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4-Claw setting, pliers, saw blade
Here I am using a saw-blade to adjust a stone if its not sitting correctly. I will also who you...
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Pumice Wheel, 4-Claw setting
Here you will observe all of the steps in using the Pumice wheel. I use only a Flat-Faced #180 grit...
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Stone in 4-claw head
In this video, you will see the next step in setting of the stone. It is now being prepared to...
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4-Claw/Prong Setting #2
In this second mini-video, I explain in great detail what happens when I use a H.S.S. 90 degree angle setting...
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4-Claw/Prong Setting #1
This is my version of how a large diamond can be set. This is by using only the simplest of...
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Bezel #5, Final-Hammering
In this last of the 'mini-series' on our Bezel setting. I will show you where the hammer hitting will occur....
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Bezel #4. Cleaning your Hammer!
One of the most important chores of Diamond & Gemstone setting is keeping your tools in a pristine condition.
In...
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Bur selection
In this third video on Bezel setting, I demonstrate which round bur to use for cleaning out the corners from...
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Bezel #1 HSS bur
In this new series of Bezel setting, I am aiming to introduce my well proven methods of Bezel setting.
In...
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Bezel #2, Filing top of Bezel wall
In this second video, you will notice which file I will use & where it will come in contact with...
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Oval stone, bur selection w/diagram
Selecting a proper bur for setting an Oval stone can be difficult.
Deciding between H.S.S. & a Carbide
bur can...
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Instructional Diagrams
This is an introduction using my hand- drawn diagrams. It will be easier for the student to fully understand all...
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Various graver handles!
This video shows all of my 50 handles of all shapes & sizes. The markings on all of them are...
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Examining Graver results
Once the Onglette graver is secured in the wooden handle, I will get the 'feel' of the new blade.
I...
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Grinding an Onglette graver
This initial preparation consists of removing the "Tang". Then having it be inserted into the wooden handle of your choice....
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Correcting cleaning defects
If you overlook any errors in your cleaning process, redo as best as you can. Once you go to the...
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Examining cleaning wheels!
In this first video, you will see some of the poor quality of cleaning wheels. Only the best, or new...
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Bright-Cutting w/ Right-Sided Graver
With your new modified graver, you can now easily Bright-Cut inside any bezel
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Bright-Cutting, Onglette Graver
This video explains how a rudimentary Onglette graver can be modified, with ease!
This modified graver will assist you in...
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