Author
Gerald Lewy
Website: http://www.gemsettingtutor.com
Articles and Videos by Gerald Lewy:
Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel
For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald surrounded by many small diamonds in a pendant. The approximate value of the emerald stone is $7,500. When setting a…
Setting Stones in Wax
One of the most revolutionary advances in recent years, apart from laser welding, is the method of setting stones in wax. It has allowed many previously impossible designs andalso allowed the jeweler to forge ahead and create many difficult setting…
Tube Setting Faceted Stones
When beginning to do tube settings, the first thing anyone should do is buy a “Setters Tube Holder” which appears in many tool supply catalogues. I have two of them for easy access. Expose only the very top of the…
Bezel Setting Cabochon Stones
One of the most basic designs in stone setting is Bezel Setting. It is rudimentary in its concept, and it is very pleasing to the eye in its simplicity. This concept blends with the smooth vertical shape of the stone….
Marquise Diamond Setting
This particular setting has two V shaped claws and four regular, holding and protecting claws. I will try to unravel much of the mystery of this setting as easily as possible in this document. In reality there is no mystery…
How to Set Baguettes
Baguette stones have four corners and a rather deep pavilion. Because of this you must handle these stones with special care at all times. You must make sure that all the bearings being cut are totally in line with the…
Stone Setting Tips
Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on gemstones. When securing stones, please use a soft metal pusher. I suggest a copper or brass pusher. This will prevent…
Half-Ground Round Bur
There are times during the setters workday where there is a need for a specific tool, but there nothing is available at the local tool supply store. With a little creativity you can modify many of the tools you have…
Bead Setting Method – Part 3
In past issues of BENCH magazine, I have dealt heavily on making a bead raiser and using it to bead set diamonds, and I have a CD on this topic for sale. Some of you out there are probably asking,…
Grinding and Shaping Onglette Gravers
This article contains the following detailed steps to give you a better understanding why grinding and shaping onglette gravers are necessary and important. One of the most important aspects of diamond/stone setting is the correct preparation of your tools. Your…
Bud Bur Tool
Of all the burs used on a setters bench, my one good true friend is the bud bur. Why? Because it’s one of the most diverse tools at our disposal. It is used for opening holes, cutting azures, cutting seats, as…
Bead Setting Method – Part 1
Any name you wish to put to this method of securing stones works; but how many of you jewelry bench-workers know the real way of securing stones this way. Well, let me try and explain to you in the next…
Fish Tail Setting
This wonderful style of setting has been around the world of stone setting for many, many years. As you can observe in the picture, the simple but ornate way the initial layout is formed is the whole clincher to this…
Bead Setting Method – Part 2
Now that we have done all the necessary preliminary “raising of beads” and “line-cutting” in the last issue, we are now ready to attempt the easier part of this technique called “bright-cutting” Please, do not get discouraged if you do…
Flush Mount Diamond Setting
Flush setting, or “gypsy setting” as it is sometimes known, is a somewhat exacting and delicate setting technique. The main reason it is called flush setting, and the key to the whole process, is that the table of the gemstone…
Diamond Setting Hints
When setting a series of diamonds in a row, I use a 156C and just touch the inside wall of the hole. This way each and every diamond will sit at the same level and be correctly placed.
Diamond Setting Applications
What is one of the causes of a “rippling or jagged” effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy or Flush setting? How can this be avoided? When an edge of a cutting tool (of any shape) glances over or hits a facet it will ride above that face. In turn, it will.
Cabochon Stone Full Bezel Setting
One of the most basic designs in stone setting is “Bezel Setting”. It is so rudimentary in its concept. It is very pleasing to the eye also in its simplicity. This concept blends with the smooth vertical shape of the stone. There are no sharp corners, only gradual flowing lines to conform to the stone. So now let us delve into this different style of setting. A round bur that is re-shaped to have the same contours of the “Cab” stone will enable you to perform and overcome any difficult bezel setting procedure.
Setting Gemstones in Wax
The one of the most revolutionary advance in recent years, apart from the Laser soldering, is the method of “Setting Stones in Wax”. It has “freed” up many impossible designs and allowing the manufacturer to forge ahead and create many difficult setting projects. Otherwise, that company might have had to re-design their ideas and to have the stones hand set. A jewellery company can now replicate each design with the same degree of accuracy and professionalism.
Setting Baguette Stones
Baguette stones have four corners and a rather deep pavilion. Because of this you must handle these stones with special care at all times. You must make sure that all the bearings being cut are totally in line with the long girdles of this shape of stone..
Recycling High Speed Steel Burs
When I buy my high speed steel, 90 degree, under-cutting burs I always think of the words, “waste not, want not”. This little phrase has stuck in my mind for many years. If I find that some of my burs are getting past their prime then I examine each of these well used cutting teeth and decide if I should re-sharpen them. Some of my burs are $10.00 to over $15.00 per unit so why throw it away if it’s only slightly worn down?.
Royal Flush Stone Setting
A sign on the side of a plumbers truck read, In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House. Thankfully this is not the type of flush this article is about. Instead, this article is about a style of setting small stones that has become very popular in recent years.
Claw Setting – Removing The Fear Factor
As we prepare for the upcoming Christmas season, we will be totally inundated with requests to do some repairs or original fabrications. We will be asked to do some very quick “putting together” as the customer is waiting, many duties you can administer. If its ring polishing, sizing, re-tipping or just supplying new shanks, these are all up your alley.
“How to make a Wax-Dob”
Why buy a Wax Dob, if you can make it yourself? In these many series of “How to” my student is showing you & us how she made her own wax dob. It might look a tad messy, but these…
Post Bright-Cutting on Bezel wall
This is just a short repeat of a prior video on final clean-up..But this is so much needed to be seen again.
Bright-Cut inside Bezel setting
This video shows just how the bright-cutting procedure is accomplished. I use only one tool, my “Onglette #2, Right-Sided” graver. It is formed & shaped on a bench-grinder…just for this sole purpose. During this video, you will see the inner…
Designing with CAD
It is here I am showing how fantastic CAD is now helping our jewellery trade. Instead of raising beads on a piece that incorporates over 525 stones. The setting time could were measured in long hours or even days at…
3 Azure video’s
Here is the process on how to cut Azure patterns. These appear underneath the diamond setting portion of a ring, bracelet or pendant. Great care is needed in this process of cutting.
Preparing to drill holes!
Before you start to drill any holes in your new project you ‘must’ do the following. Completely measure the thickness of the metal, spacing between the stones, measure the depth from the ‘Table facet ‘ to the ‘Culet’. If these…
“Moving a Hole”
Supposing a designing hole is slightly off-center, how would you ‘move’ it? The answer will now be shown without soldering to plug it up?..It’s so very easy!
Azure patterns, w/gravers
Here I am explaining how an Azure cut is finished. It is created underneath the hole where the diamond is situated. Absolute precision in graver-cutting is foremost in this process..what I used was a simple Onglet #1 graver,…nothing else to…
Drilling Holes in Wax
I need to duplicate a wax form from the original pattern. Here you will see just how easy it can be done. You will notice that all of the intended holes will be now in a straight line just as…
Bright-Cutting, REVIEW!
In this brief video, I show once more how the graver just sails through the silver. Almost like carving into a piece of cake! It IS EASY, trust me..but you gotta follow the ‘rules the road’. No short-cuts are allowed!!!…
Bright-Cutting extra notes
It is here I am just going over some extra little notes on Bright-cutting. I might have missed a few. But as this process is so important & extra video or two, will help you a great deal.
#6, Bead-Burnishing, Final Cuts!
In this final video, you will see the stones being finally set. I will be using a Hart-shaped bur..a.k.a. 156C to under-cut each mini-post/claw. This is to make sure each stone is set level & equally at the same depth….
#5, Bright-Cutting with a graver
With a modified Onglette #2, Right-Sided bright cutting blade, I am now shearing off metal to leave a very bright cut. These are now on either side of the now newly formed bead/posts. As you can see on this particular…
#4..Round bur making beads!
In this very interesting #4 video, I am starting to cut a pattern using a simple #006 round bur to cut beads. These beads are not the usual kinds you’ve seen before. These beads are then going to burnished over…
#3- Watch-case on shellac
In this 3rd video, we will use an Onglet #1 graver to do the ‘outline’ or rough-cutting around the silver item. I demonstrate how the line-cutting should take place in reference to cutting around the holes. All preliminary cutting is…
Introduction to Line-Cutting
This 2nd video introduces you to “Line-Cutting”. It is here we will examine what is involved in basic ‘Pre-Cutting’ as it is called in diamond setting terms. The process of doing all of the rough-cutting prior to any actual stone…
1-Burs & Gravers for Bright-Cutting
In this first of 6 video’s, I explore the varied, but basic tools I will be using. From the basic round & bud shaped burs I stress that all tools must be kept in pristine condition while being used.
Introduction #2. “Cut-down Setting”
Here is an second video on how this remarkable style of setting looks. It is virtually a skill in all of it’s own. This is not for the ‘feint of heart’. Perfection of only 100% is needed. At all times…
Intro #1 “Cut-Down Setting”
I am showing you what this not-often used setting technique looks like on a ring. As one of my friends said… it’s like hand sculpturing in metal, instead on canvass. I place this art-work at an easy 18/10 on my…
Student; Finished setting project.
My student has now finished his first setting project. He is so very happy over his first assignment under my training! He is now finishing off any sanding disk & file marks with his Pumice Wheel #180 grit. He fully…
Student setting an Oval stone
My student is now hammering the stone in place. He checks that the Bezel-Wall is now laying on the stone all during this process. He is constantly using his 10 power loupe. This is the correct method in viewing the…
Student setting Bezel
In the first video you will watch how my student set a stone. His attempt was met with great success in setting his very first Oval, 8×6 mm CZ. He used my diagrams & watched every little movement of my…
Close-up of Bright-Cut silver plate
In this second video I show how a simple graver can cut a design. I show on my shellac stick how it originally started. Although the video is not too long, examples speak for them selves. My next few videos…
Graver w/silver plate
In this video you will see just how a little graver can engrave cuts & mini-claws. These little hand engraved beads are used in setting gem-stones. All that is then used is a bead-burnisher to move over the metal onto…
Graver into a wooden handle
The graver is now sitting in it’s handle, the jeweler will immerse the hot graver into cold water. You must make sure the graver is not tilted or crooked in the wood frame. He will then hit the back-end of…
Heating a graver
In this video, you can see a graver that is ready to be ‘burned’ in to a wooden handle. This has to be done by using a torch using a high temperature flame.
Princess-Final video
This is the 3rd video on “How to Set a Princess Stone”. In this video, all tools are shown in finishing this setting process. As this process takes about 15 minutes from start to finish, there are no short-cuts anywhere….
Princess-second video
In this second of three setting demonstrations, you will see the following procedure. I am burring out the inside of the gallery that will accomodate the Princess Pavilion. You will also see how I am exercising much caution in making…
Princess-first stage of setting!
Now that you know exactly what tools you need in your bench, we can now start the setting. Here I examine the setting & decide to ‘open’ the claws to accommodate the use of pliers & round/bud burs. Easy access…
“Tools for a Princess”
This is a video showing all the necessary tools, just to set a Princess stone. Between the selection of round & bud burs, the different kinds of files. I explain the many reasons in using these very important items. Even…
Gypsy Setting-Finish
In this second of two videos just on Gypsy Setting, I demonstrate Bright-cutting inside of the “Gypsy” circle of metal. With this final clean-up, I use my Flat-Faced, #180 grit Pumice wheel. It is in contact all along the surface…
“Gypsy-Start #1”
In this first of 2 videos, I start the drilling with a 156C Under-Cutting bur to make a seat for the stone. I then proceed to hammer the metal over the girdle of the stone. I use a ring-mandrel to…
Grand Tour of My Setting-Bench
This video is the “Grand Tour of My Setting Bench”. I explain all of my carbide burs as they are located in separate pallets, or bur-holding pads. You will also see where I keep the smaller gem-stones on my bench….
Hammer & Clamps
In this video, I explain the differences between many hammers & clamps prior to setting any style of ring. The optimum phrase is ‘being comfortable’ in setting stones. You don’t want your hand to hurt or have your clamp literally…
Gypsy Setting w/diagrams
In this video I explain Gypsy Setting & the many techniques using the Hammer & Carbide burs. I also show the route in determining the method in finding the depth prior to setting of the stone. I use extensively my…
Removing gem-stones
In this video, I explore the easy methods of removing gemstones. I instruct how to modify your pliers for this process
4-Claw setting, pliers, saw blade
Here I am using a saw-blade to adjust a stone if its not sitting correctly. I will also who you how I modify my pair of pliers. This is so very important when you are bringing in the claws to…
Pumice Wheel, 4-Claw setting
Here you will observe all of the steps in using the Pumice wheel. I use only a Flat-Faced #180 grit & a Tapered wheel. I must remove all of the little marks from the ring, that were caused by my…
Stone in 4-claw head
In this video, you will see the next step in setting of the stone. It is now being prepared to be set into in the 4-claw head. Details in the alignment of the claws to the stone. Using pliers to…
4-Claw/Prong Setting #2
In this second mini-video, I explain in great detail what happens when I use a H.S.S. 90 degree angle setting bur. In this video I also show what a piece of metal called ‘shards’ can be formed during the ‘bearing-forming.’…
4-Claw/Prong Setting #1
This is my version of how a large diamond can be set. This is by using only the simplest of setting tools. This is my well-proven method that was taught to me over 50 years ago! Even my students can…
Bezel #5, Final-Hammering
In this last of the ‘mini-series’ on our Bezel setting. I will show you where the hammer hitting will occur. Including how hold the stone in place while starting the hammering process. I will demonstrate the angle of hitting the…
Bezel #4. Cleaning your Hammer!
One of the most important chores of Diamond & Gemstone setting is keeping your tools in a pristine condition. In this video, I explain how an important tool such as hammer needs to be kept in 100% condition. I demonstrate…
Bur selection
In this third video on Bezel setting, I demonstrate which round bur to use for cleaning out the corners from the H.S.S. shaping. I explain what size of bur to use & why is it important. The wrong assumed round…
Bezel #1 HSS bur
In this new series of Bezel setting, I am aiming to introduce my well proven methods of Bezel setting. In this first video I show my use of a High Speed Steel setting bur. It has an angle of 90…
Bezel #2, Filing top of Bezel wall
In this second video, you will notice which file I will use & where it will come in contact with the top of the bezel. This bezel angle is where the hammer will hit top of the frame.
Oval stone, bur selection w/diagram
Selecting a proper bur for setting an Oval stone can be difficult. Deciding between H.S.S. & a Carbide bur can be a greater challenge. I make this a really easy task with my diagrams. In this video, I explain just…
Instructional Diagrams
This is an introduction using my hand- drawn diagrams. It will be easier for the student to fully understand all the tools that are required. Some setting projects need certain high-precision files or Gravers. It is my duty to explain…
Various graver handles!
This video shows all of my 50 handles of all shapes & sizes. The markings on all of them are used for quick identification in my setting bench. I will be explaining how each tool once used, can be inserted…
Examining Graver results
Once the Onglette graver is secured in the wooden handle, I will get the ‘feel’ of the new blade. I must make sure all of the honed sides are equal on both side of the blade..If this passes my visual…
Grinding an Onglette graver
This initial preparation consists of removing the “Tang”. Then having it be inserted into the wooden handle of your choice. Lighting above the bench-grinder is very important as you must see any subtle changes in the shaping of the Onglette…
Correcting cleaning defects
If you overlook any errors in your cleaning process, redo as best as you can. Once you go to the polishing stages, all of your rings buffs will only enhance those errors..so double-check your cleaning..now!
Examining cleaning wheels!
In this first video, you will see some of the poor quality of cleaning wheels. Only the best, or new wheels are permitted in this aspect of cleaning.
Bright-Cutting w/ Right-Sided Graver
With your new modified graver, you can now easily Bright-Cut inside any bezel
Bright-Cutting, Onglette Graver
This video explains how a rudimentary Onglette graver can be modified, with ease! This modified graver will assist you in Bright-Cutting inside of Bezels, Gypsy-Settings. The tools you need are only an Onglette #1 or #2, an oil-stone! In a…