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[Orchid] Some tips on hand saw piercing
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James Miller Monday, December 08, 2008
   
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Hi all,

    If you don't know of me, I am an ageing goldsmith who just loves hand
    saw piercing, I can quite happily pierce all day given the
    oppertunity. Recently Helen remarked that she has problems saw
    piercing thin metals, well recently I had a job to replace some
    missing pierced gold decorations in an antique tortoise shell box.
    These decorations were to be cut from 0.2mm. thick 22ct. gold which
    is almost impossible to saw pierce as it is so thin and flexible,
    well the simple answer was for me to super glue the 22ct. sheet onto
    a piece of 0.5mm. silver sheet, then I engraved my patternwork onto
    the 22ct. and pierced the now 0.7mm. thick double layer sheet. After
    I had pierced the decorations I polished them and finally gently
    heated the pieces with a torch flame and the super glued sheets
    seperated leaving my 0.2mm piercings to be glued into the tortoise
    shell box. My customer was well pleased with the finished
    restoration. I once did a master class about hand saw piercing at a
    local college that taught jewellery, most students were bothered by
    breaking too many saw blades and the most common cause was an
    insecure bench pin, for some reason the teacher at this college did
    not know that an insecure piercing pin increases the likelyhood of
    regular saw blade breaks. I tried to teach the students that the
    items being pierced should be total firm on the bench pin so that you
    need little pressure hold the item in securely place while piercing.
    The other common problem while piercing was that they would hold the
    saw frame in line with the eye and pierce away from their face, I was
    taught to hold the sawframe at right angles to the eye and pierce
    across the eyeline. I was taught to saw this way with my master
    saying that " it is better to see where the blade is going, rather
    than where it has been". Also let the saw blade do the cutting, it
    only cuts on it's downward stroke, the saw does not need much
    horizontal pressure just an even pace of up and down strokes. As for
    blade lubrication, I have been using the same method for the past 47
    years and it works perfectly for me, I use a 6 inch wax candle,
    rubbed up the back of the sawblade at regular intervals when resting
    from cutting, if you are piercing thicker metals the blade will get
    hot and the wax soon becomes liquid on the blade, adding the wax to
    the back of the blade stops the wax blocking the view of the cutting
    line while piercing. I have five different depth saw frames, all of
    German manufacture and I use Glarden Valorbe Saw blades, sizes 6.0
    up to 0. See my work here: 

    http://www.ganoksin.com/exhibition/v/orchid/JamesMiller 

    Or my book is available on pre order from Amazon, due for publication
    in March 2009: Titled: The Work of a Master Goldsmith: A Unique
    Collection. 

    Peace and good health to all. If I can give any further tips or
    answer any questions, please ask. 

James Miller FIPG


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