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My career has moved from "art" jeweler, to designer, from
wholesale/manufacturer to retailer. As an Artist, I need to
constantly experiment and will explore every idea I can in metal. As
a designer, who needs to establish a "look" for both galleries and
stores, this approach won't work well. Both stores and clientele
want to see a recognizable style that makes the designer's work
easily recognizable. David Yurman or Michael Good are both excellent
examples. Take an idea, or theme, and explore it until you exhaust
it. It can be just as creative to work within limitations as it is
to work without any. For years, I tried to resist this and always
introduced new ideas in my work. Not just new ideas, but often a
whole new look. It was difficult to market. Buyers are just not
comfortable with someone who is always changing.
As a retail designer/goldsmith, everything changed. Clients want to
see a wide range of possibilities in my work. It is almost as if
there were several designers working in my store instead of just
one. I am free to explore several different techniques and styles
simultaneously. I accept commissions for custom work that are not
part of my "normal" style, and it is quite a challenge to make some
of these projects into a piece of jewelry that I am happy with. I
know that a lot of you who have retail stores know what I'm talking
about.
I can understand why your instructor equates maturity with a focused
style. It's what you're taught in art school, whether as a jewelry
designer, a painter, or a musician. It's what you need to do to
establish your career when you are selling both your work and your
"style." The other approach will lead to technical virtuosity, which
is also the sign of a mature artist. It's just not as widely
recognized or appreciated.
You can do both. As a retail designer, I design and produce work for
my clientele. I am also designing a tight, focused design collection
for wholesale. It is easy to manufacture, doesn't require a vast
inventory of materials, but is creatively satisfying. I am also
working on a series of sculptures, again along a focused theme, that
I do only for my own enjoyment. I am not offering them for sale,
although I do exhibit them in museums shows. Since I don't have to
worry about marketability, I can be creatively unrestrained.
My advise is to find the approach that makes you happy and follow
it.
Just my two cents...
Doug Zaruba
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