[Jewelry making - Article 00800] - [Orchid] Electrolytic rust removal

[David L. Huffman]

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    Hi all; I recently posted a couple of URL's describing the process of
    using inexpensive and common equipment to remove rust from tools and
    steel articles.  I'm afraid those URL's are of no use to us.  I can
    no long find the information there.  Here's the process entirely: 

    The main thing you need is a battery charger (automotive type). 
    They're about $30 at an auto parts store, probably less at a place
    like Harbor Freight or Wal Mart.  Any source of DC current will do,
    the higher the amperage, the better.  In theory, a 9-volt "wall wart"
    will do, but it would take a long time for any larger article.  You
    also need a plastic container, a scrap sheet of metal, preferably
    stainless steel, and some baking soda.  Fill the bucket with water
    and add a handful of baking soda, about a tablespoon per gallon. 
    Washing soda works well too, if you can find it.  Some folks use lye
    in their electrolyte, but the soda is non-toxic. Prepare your sheet
    metal anode.  Stainless sheet works best (since it holds up longer),
    but a flattened tin can will do in a pinch.  Wire the POSITIVE to
    the scrap steel.  This will be the anode.  You'll want to keep the
    clamp out of the solution, or it will eventually dissolve too.  You
    need to connect the article to be cleaned to the NEGATIVE side of
    the charger, again, keeping the clamp out of the solution.  You've
    got to make a connection on a clean spot on the article, so you may
    need to sand or grind through the rust at the point at which you
    connect your contact.  Put both the pieces (the article and the
    scrap steel anode) in the solution, as close as possible but NOT
    TOUCHING.  The part being cleaned will begin to bubble.  After about
    two hours at 12 volts, six amps, you can take it out and examine it.
     The part being cleaned, if originally badly rusted, will now be
    covered with a black powder which you can wire brush off.  Then
    return the article to the solution for another 6 hours and you'll
    see all that is left of the rust is a little more fine black powder,
    and the high spots may be getting shiny.  At this point, you can
    take the article out, rinse it off, wire brush it some more, and
    then lightly oil it with linseed oil.  Linseed oil is great for
    tools, but be careful. . .rags soaked in it can spontaneously
    combust, and I've seen this happen, so better put them in the burn
    bin or bury them.  If they're cotton, you can put them in the
    compost, everything in this case is organic, just don't store them
    in the house or garage.  You can, of course, substitute any kind of
    oil you'd like, but you'll need to get that raw metal covered with
    some sort of protection as soon as possible.  This demonstration was
    employed on a large steel punch, about 1/2 inch in diameter and 5
    inches long.  It was badly rusted, but not pitted.  Even pitted
    steel will clean.  The pits will still be there, but they'll be
    clean of rust.  Times for smaller articles could be significantly
    shorter.  Obviously, the less rusted a piece is, the shorter the
    cleaning time.  I don't think that higher concentrations of baking
    or washing soda will shorten the time, as it's not the same as using
    an acid or alkaline to clean, the soda is used to make the water
    more conductive. 

David L. Huffman

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