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This mounting holds graduated round diamonds ranging
in size from 0.01 to 0.33 carats each and was designed by Lainie
Mann, Mann Design Group. The channel walls into which the diamonds
are set taper in thickness from 1.2mm at the thinnest to 2.2mm at
the widest portion. This thickness is proportionately ample, at each
point where a stone will be seated and held, so that the palladium
will not distort during normal wear.
Design tip: When designing for channel setting, 1) design for
the stones you'll be using and measure between walls, 2) keep the
channel walls parallel, 3) allow for ample metal for setting on
opposite walls, especially shared walls (remember casting and finishing)
4) consider structural stability allowing for supports to your
design 5) keep the top of channel walls flat for setting and finishing. |
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To further secure and stabilize the curved channel
walls, they were joined to the lower bars in the wax model prior
to casting.
Design tip: Because tapered and curved channels are characteristically
less stable than straight channels, this structural reinforcement
provides further support for the channel walls, ensuring that the
gemstones are secure and preserving the integrity of the design
in wear. |
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For casting, 5 runners or feeder sprues were attached
to the wax model. The diameter of each was about 3.5mm and their
locations are indicated by the red arrows. The casting was done by
TechFrom, Portland, OR.
Palladium note: Multiple spruing and gating of models to be cast
in palladium has significantly reduced or eliminated shrinkage
porosity and provided an "exit" for excess gasses absorbed
during melting that is given off when the metal is cooling. |
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To create the opposing bearings in the walls of the
mounting and to seat the diamonds for channel setting, 3 sizes of
70 Busch Bearing burs were used. The diamonds were set one at a time
using a scribing, burring and seating process. In this image, 2 diamonds
have been set and the third is being positioned. A small amount of
sticky wax is holding the diamond in place while the setter scribes
its placement. |
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The wax holding the diamond in place was removed after
scribing the position where it will be set and the bearing was created.
For the 3.6mm round brilliant diamond, a 70 1.65mm bearing bur was
used to create the bearing. The excess metal or flashing created
by the tool was removed and the diamond was then pushed in place.
This 3-step process was repeated until all of the diamonds were set. |
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These multi-colored Montana sapphires are flush (or
burnish) set. Palladium is ideal for this purpose given its desirable
malleability, which allows for substantial metal to be easily formed
around the gemstones. With the strength and superior wear features
of palladium, these sapphires are securely set. The sapphires were
set by JewelCraft in Erlanger, KY.
Design tip: Jewelry design is all about bringing precious metal
and gemstones together to create a dazzling, wearable, lasting
piece which complements both elements-and more importantly, the
wearer. Select the materials to make the whole greater than the
sum of its parts. Here, the forever untarnished whiteness of palladium
compliments each brilliant colored sapphire and illuminates the
overtones of the pearl. The gemstones in turn bring out the soft
tactile form of the palladium-the perfect enhancement for all skin
tones. |
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This 5 stone ring designed by Lainie Mann, Mann Design Group holds
an oval peridot center stone flanked by round brilliant diamonds,
all set in partial bezels and accented by 2 bezel set trillion-shaped
blue sapphires. The setting was done by JewelCraft in Erlanger, KY.
The full bezels are 0.65mm in width. The thickness of the partial
bezel for the center stone is 1.3mm and 1.1mm on the side diamonds.
Both were easy to manipulate in the setting process and provide ample
security.
Design tip: Partial bezels offer great possibilities in design:
the security of bezel setting, maximum 'show' for gemstones (e.g.
more light, closer spacing) and the form of the setting is integral
to the design style. When creating designs that 'overlap' gemstones
in partial bezels (to make the most of their sparkle and color),
remember to allow enough metal and 'elbow room' to insure that
the settings can be secure. |
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This mounting and setting features prongs that are only 0.7mm in
width (A) that taper to a very narrow base (B). Because the prongs
and the base are narrow the setting twisted and distorted when the
bearings were being created using a setting bur. The center stone
is large so when placed on a flat surface with a small amount of
pressure applied from the top, the setting bent to one side. This
is undesirable as the prongs should be thicker and the base should
have a substantially wider platform. This mounting may fail under
the strain of normal wear. |
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The prongs for the round brilliant center stone in this lightweight
950 palladium 5-stone mounting by the Mann Design Group are 1.2mm
in diameter. It also features a supportive gallery wire just above
the small bezels holding the 0.02 round diamonds. This structure
provides sufficient support and security for all 5 stones even though
this mounting only has a total weight of 3.5 pennyweights. The prong
width, bezel and point prong width and the structural support for
this low-profile design make this palladium mounting a successful
candidate for lasting wear. |
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This mounting by Jim Adair, Adair Jewelers, Missoula, MT features
an emerald cut sapphire center stone set in 4 1.25mm round prongs.
The prongs are substantially supported below the girdle level of
the mounting. The baguette side stones are bezel and channel set
with ample wall thickness and the small round brilliants have been
pave' set with beads large enough to cover the small diamonds they
are securing and to hold up during normal wear. |
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This ring designed by Venetti, Los Angeles, CA has 4 substantial
square-shaped prongs. The prongs taper from 1.4mm square at the top
to a wide base and are supported within the overall structure. The
small princess cut side diamonds are channel set with substantial
metal holding them in place. Given the dimensions of the ring and
setting structure, there is no potential for distortion or stone
loss through normal wear.
Design tip: Palladium provides the perfect precious metal medium
for the designing larger and more substantial jewelry which is
very comfortable to wear. With a specific gravity of 11.8, palladium
expands the range of styles for today's designer.
Whether you are a designer, bench jeweler, quality control technician
or jewelry buyer, take the time to become familiar with the qualities
that mark a well-designed and crafted example of fine palladium
jewelry and jewelry components which will provide a desirable,
wearable and long lasting piece of jewelry. |
