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| Excerpts from the book: The Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing
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| The nature of deformation
Fundamentally what occurs in individual crystals and in the lattice structure is the same for all stresses. The changes on a larger scale, in the whole sample, for example, are dependent on the method of deformation being used. Forging is different from drawing, and bending is not the same as riveting. Because the effects of stress at the crystal and grain level are the same, one example will suf?ce for all forms of deformation. We'll use rolling to illustrate the process. Elastic deformation
Figure 4.41 shows a simpli?ed view of the changes within a grain during elastic stress. Imagine the atoms as spheres joined by elastic bands. As illustrated in 4.41b, the space between atoms is reduced in the direction of pressure while the lattice structure is widened at right angles to it. If the pressure strikes the lattice structure from an oblique angle, as in 4.41c, the rectangle becomes a rhombus, where again the spaces between atoms decrease in the direction of the stress and increase at a right angle to it. In other words, the metal is squeezed downward and outward. If in fact each atom was linked to its neighbor by a rubber band, if the stress were removed, the lattice would return to its original symmetrical structure. This is the de?nition of elastic deformation. Plastic deformation To describe the phenomenon using the rubber band model, we could say that when the bands can stretch no further, they are torn off from all atoms of the slip plane, the atomic “spheres” jolt along by one slip stage. Here the rubber bands are re-attached, re-forming the mutual bonds of the atoms (?gure 4.41d). This establishes the structure as it existed before, but with the crystals now in new locations. The outward shape of the grain has been changed, but the atoms within the crystal lattice are again ordered according their crystal system. A gold grain, for example, is still organized according to the cubic face-centered lattice structure, even after rolling. The more slip planes available in a grain and the greater degree that the atoms shift on these planes, the more the grain changes from its original shape. If it is drawn out in one direction, as for instance when wire is pulled through a drawplate, it becomes narrower in the dimension at right angles to it as the result of numerous slip planes, as illustrated in Figure 4.41e. Such a shift of the lattice structure is only possible if the load is oriented in the direction of the preferred slip planes. A stress in a different direction is resisted by the grain because only a small portion of the force can be used for deformation. It is possible that the force available is only enough for an elastic displacement of the lattice structure (4.41b). The lattice structure's resistance to deformation increases with the degree of deformation: the more the structure is changed and the stronger the force being applied, the greater the amount of force required to continue the deformation. Effects in the grain structure When a grain lying in the direction of deformation stretches, it immediately affects neighboring crystals because it is bonded to them. They are ?rst elastically stressed, then they shift their positions through plastic deformation: the structure “?ows.” If the deformation continues along a single direction, grains become increasingly elongated, eventually creating a structure made up entirely of long thread-like grains running in the same direction. This is a typical structure for metals that have been drawn or rolled. In plastic deformation, then, the originally randomly oriented sample develops a ordered grain structure according to the direction of working.
As the process continues, increased force is necessary not only to push the grains along their slip planes, but to push other grains out of their way (?gure 4.42). Additional brittle grain boundary material is precipitated between the grains, stiffening the structure. This can inhibit deformation or even make it completely impossible. The grains are eventually stretched to the limits of their formability. If the stress continues, the forces of cohesion holding the sample together are exceeded, and the structure begins to tear. For most metals, increased deformation increases hardness, tensile strength and maximum elongation and decreases ductility. That is, as you work harden metal, it gets tougher, longer, less malleable, and more brittle. Figure 4.43 charts these mechanical characteristics for copper. While actual values will vary for other metals and alloys, the tendencies and graphed curves are similar.
Rolling Rolling can be thought of as a local (or isolated) deformation process during which thickness is decreased, length increased, and width remains unchanged. The sample is pressed and advanced through the rollers because friction pulls it into place as the rollers are turned. In order to understand the microscopic effects of metal passing between moving surfaces, we should ?rst describe what happens when metal is squeezed between two unmoving surfaces.
Forging between ?xed surfaces
Forging between moving surfaces Because the metal is constantly being brought into increased stress as it passes through the rollers, the situation differs from the impact of an unmoving force as described above. The area of greatest deformation lies on line FF, just behind the location of the smallest gap between the rollers. This results in the metal at the surface being pushed backwards forming a back ?ow. The metal in the area of the back ?ow moves slower and in the forward slip area faster than the peripheral rotation speed of the rolls; only the metal of the ?ow divide moves for the most part at the same speed as the rolls.
In addition, the pressure of the rolls is not as equally distributed over the entire cross section of metal as might be assumed from the simpli?ed diagram. Instead, the outer areas of the metal are more strongly deformed than the center of the piece of metal. It can even happen that the area in the center is almost entirely unaffected, as illustrated in ?gure 4.46. It is sometimes possible to observe this phenomenon with the naked eye by observing a leading edge of metal sheet that has been rolled. It becomes clear from these explanations that the structure of the metal is subjected to high stress and deformation during rolling, and must therefore be of faultless quality if it is to withstand the process. Or to say it another way, if you have an ingot that suffers from de?ciencies like pits and cracks, putting it through the rollers with the intention of correcting these ?aws is ill advised. The stress of rolling will only make them worse. Equipment
The material being worked should emerge with a smooth, almost polished surface from a good rolling mill. This requires rolls of high quality steel that even after long use retain an undamaged polish. All the other parts of a rolling mill have to withstand great stresses and should therefore be made of ?rst class materials too. Whether a hand-operated rolling mill is suf?cient for regular use or whether it pays to have an electric rolling mill depends on the size of the business and its production program. Large production companies would not be able to manage without them. The rolling mill shown can be converted to a powered machine by mounting an electric motor into the base and constructing an appropriate power train for it. A variation on a rolling mill called a beading machine is used by sheet metal workers to form sheet stock. With the proper attachments, this machine can be used by goldsmiths to bend up hollow bracelet forms and similar shapes. In this case, a strip of the appropriate width is fed between rollers that curve the metal into a loop as they alter its cross section, creating a compound curve. All that remains is to solder on an inside piece, or deck, to create a bracelet. Care of the rolling mill
If minor repolishing is needed, cut a piece of ?ne abrasive paper the same width as the rollers and fold it, abrasive out, over a wooden dowel that is also cut to the same width as the rollers. Tighten the rollers until they make contact with the rolls and turn the crank, holding onto the paper. Avoid using a coarse abrasive, which risks making the problem worse rather than better. Preparing an ingot Rolling a Sheet It doesn't matter whether the piece is ?ipped upside down for the next pass. It can also be rolled back and forth without harm, but it should not change its direction of rolling without being annealed ?rst. That is, do not rotate the work 90° unless you anneal it ?rst. If a square sheet has to be rolled it must ?rst be stretched long in one direction, annealed and then lengthened at right angles to the previously worked direction. Once you begin a rolling action, continue with a smooth even stroke until the piece has passed through the mill. Stopping in the middle or cranking with a jerky motion will result in horizontal marks, or steps, on the sheet. Attempts to speed up the process by making large thickness changes between passes will result in hard work, stress on the mill, and lines that are the result of strained, irregular rolling speed. It's faster in the long run to progress ef?ciently in small increments. Many mills allow the two sides of the rollers to be adjusted separately, which allows the rollers to be taken out of parallel if desired. In this way it is possible to roll a strip so it takes on a curve. Remember to set the mill back to parallel when you are done! It goes without saying that metal must be annealed periodically as it is reduced in the rolling mill. Annealing too soon is a waste of time, while annealing too late risks damaging the metal through stress cracks. Though tempting, it is not recommended to judge the proper annealing sequence by feel; thick ingots are tough to roll even when annealed, and thin sheet might not feel work hardened even when it is due for annealing. Instead, use a micrometer to test the reduction, and anneal as needed. In the case of sterling, sheets should be annealed when they have been reduced by half. A 5 mm sample, for instance, should be annealed when it measures 2.5 mm, and again when it is half of that, 1.25 (?gure 4.48).
rolling wire
Drawing The principle of this procedure consists of reducing the thickness of a pointed, tapered wire by drawing it through a conical opening in a tool made of a hard material. The wire will simultaneously take the shape of the hole. Drawing is different from rolling in that the pressure of drawing it not transmitted through the turning action of the mill, but instead depends on force directed locally at the area of compression. This means the amount of possible drawing force is limited by the tensile strength of the material, a fact that is particularly evident when drawing thin wires. Metal thickness is reduced by its passage through the draw cone. The steeper the cone, the greater the reduction; which of course means increased resistance and stress. The ideal shape of the cone and percentage of reduction are engineered into the design of a proper drawplate. By moving systematically through adjacent holes, the stress is minimized. Because of friction on its outer surface, metal on the outside of a rod is most affected by the drawplate, with the inner core remaining almost unchanged. Tools
The quality of the wire produced depends upon the condition of the drawplate. Only when the holes are absolutely smooth can a perfect wire be produced. The treatment and handling of drawplates begins with their storage. A quick way to damage a drawplate is to toss it casually into a drawer. A container in which the drawplates can be placed always pays for itself. Don't use a drawplate for any purpose other than drawing wire and making tubing. Despite their simple appearance, drawplates are sophisticated precision instruments and require at least nominal care. To use a drawplate, place it between two protective plates of copper or another soft metal in a vise, positioning it so the holes to be used are reasonably close to the jaws. File a taper on the wire, feed it into the ?rst hole where it is restricted, and grasp it ?rmly in drawtongs. These are sturdy pliers with handles long enough to allow them to be held with both hands. The ?at jaws are sharply textured so that the wire does not slip out even with a strong pull (?gure 4.50).
Wires over 2 mm thick will require the use of a drawbench, a device that connects the tongs by belt or chain to a large crank that signi?cantly increases leverage. For further ease a reduction gear train can be installed (?gure 4.51). Automatic drawing machines are used in industrially settings to produce long ?ne wires, like the stock used in chain making. The wire to be drawn is wound onto a spool, and its pointed end fed through the appropriate hole in a drawplate. The leading end is attached it to a second spool that is electrically driven. In this way the thin wire is quickly, safely and uniformly drawn and wound onto the drum. Several drawplates can be arranged one after the other (often with a coolant bath between) to effect a large reduction with a single pull. The last pull with thin wires uses a stone drawplate, in which drilled diamonds or corundum are set into a steel plate. These guarantee accuracy of dimension even during extended use. More recently, sintered hard metal materials set into steel plates provide similar durability at a lower cost.
Drawing wire Be sure the wire is free from hard impurities such as iron particles, ?ux residues and so on. Anneal the piece thoroughly and ?le a taper about 20 mm long on one end. In thick wire the taper can be created by step rolling. Rub the wire with wax to reduce the friction at the draw cone. Locate the smallest hole the wire can be passed through then begin drawing through the next smallest hole. Grip the point with draw tongs and pull evenly, if possible without stopping. As a rule, no hole can be skipped because to do so risks over stressing the material being worked: the wire will snap or get stuck. Just as in rolling, regular annealing is important in drawing. Thin wire is wound into a coil and bound with copper or steel wires. Heat the coil with a bushy ?ame, quench in water, remove the wrapping wire and pickle. Remember to dry the wire completely before continuing to draw it because moisture left on the drawplate will cause it to rust. When drawing wires of unusual cross section, prepare the strip by making it resemble as closely as possible the ?nal shape. For rectangular or knife-edge wires, for instance, roll a wire through the sheet mill ?rst to approximate the form. To make half round wire, solder two square or rectangular wires together for a short distance along their tips. File this section to a taper, and use it as the draw point to pull the double strand through a round drawplate. The result will be a pair of identical half round wires. Making a tube
Prepare a strip of sheet that is a little wider than the measurement given by the formula. This will allow the ?nished tube to be drawn through several holes to make it smooth and round. File the edges of the strip at a slight angle so they will ?t well against each other when they are drawn into contact. Make a taper by cutting a point on one end of the strip. An alternate method, shown in ?gure 4.52, is to solder a wire whose diameter matches the intended inside diameter to the end of the strip. This allows the tube to remain round and undamaged by the draw tongs.
Hammer the strip into a wooden V-block until its section is slightly more than half round. Direct the hammer blows along the edges rather than the middle of the strip to minimize the tendency to twist like a screw during drawing. The strip of sheet is annealed and the edges are scraped clean, then the tube is drawn until the seam closes. Avoid the use of drawing wax because it prevents solder from ?owing. The drawn tube is closed by soldering with long thin pieces of solder. Pickle and remove excess solder by ?ling, then draw the tube through several sequential holes to make it completely round and of the desired diameter. To make square, rectangular or triangular tubing, start with a round tube with a diameter larger than the intended result. To create a core, draw a copper wire to the intended inside diameter size and shape and coat it with oil. This wire should be at least 40 mm longer than the ?nished tube, projecting for at least 20 mm out one end. Clean this section of oil and spot solder it into the tube. After ?ling, this will be the draw point for the operation to follow. Draw as for wire, starting with the ?rst hole in which the tube makes contact, and proceeding sequentially without skipping any holes. Because there is more stress in this process than in normal drawing, be prepared for some hard pulling. Continue until the tube comes into contact with the core. To remove that wire, ?rst saw off the tip where the two units were soldered together. Working from the back side of the drawplate, feed the core through the hole that formed it; this will not allow the tube to pass through. Grasp the copper wire and withdraw it. Be careful that you don't use the front of the drawplate for this because the cone shaped hole will effectively squeeze the tube onto the core and lock them together. If the tube is to be bent, leave the copper core in place until the bending is ?nished, then remove the internal wire with acid. |
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