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From ancient times, gold has been
used mostly in decorative items, and
the colour of gold plays an important
role in this application field. Different
methods have been developed to
objectively characterize the colour.
This paper describes the CIELAB
system, which has gained acceptance
as an effective way to assess colour.
The different coloured gold alloys
known today are also described, with
emphasis on the relationship
between their metallurgy and their
colour.
The history of gold goes hand in
hand with the evolution of human
civilization, influencing its extension
and development ever since the first
gold item was created. The rich
yellow colour of gold has always
been attractive to mankind, and gold
has been used in all parts of the
world, since as far back as 3000 BC (1, 2)
Gold and copper are the only two
metals that exhibit colour. Owing to
this property, gold alloys can be
made to assume a range of colours by
varying the alloying additions. In 862
BC the Lydians were using coins
made of a green gold-silver alloy known as 'electrum' and composed
of 73wt%Au and 27wt%Ag. A red
gold alloy, the combination of
70wt%Cu with 30wt%Au, was used
during the time of the Chimu Empire
(ca 1300 AD) by goldsmiths in what is
today northern Peru (3). Today,
various coloured gold alloys are
available, giving the opportunity of
creating unique jewellery and
decorative items.
It is the intention of this paper to
briefly review the formation of, and
assessment of, colour in metals, as
well as the different coloured gold
alloys and their properties.
Formation of colour in Metals We perceive colour when the
different wavelengths composing
white light selectively interfere with
matter by absorption, diffraction,
reflection, refraction or scattering, or
when a non-white distribution of light
has been emitted by a system (4). The
wavelength of visible light is of the
order of 380-780 nm. Figure 2 shows
the energy of the visible spectrum.
The formation of colour in metallic
elements and their alloys can be explained by means of the band
theory. When metal and light
interact, electrons from the metal
surface situated either below or on
the Fermi level absorb photons and
enter an excited state on or above the
Fermi surface respectively (5). The
efficiency of the absorption and reemission
of light depends on the
atomic orbitals from which the
energy band originated (4). A white
reflected light will result if the
different colours in white light are
reflected equally well. In the case of
gold and copper, the efficiency
decreases with increasing energy,
resulting in yellow and reddish
colours due to the reduction in
reflectivity at the blue end of the
spectrum.
 |
| Figure 2 – Wavelengths in the visible
spectrum. |
Measurements performed on gold
alloys with various amounts of silver
(Figure 3) show a high reflectivity
exhibited by fine gold for the low
energy part (below 2.3 eV) of the
visible spectrum (6) (Figure 2). This
means that the yellow colour of gold
is formed by a selective reflection of
the red-yellow wavelengths. As the
silver content increases, a higher
reflectivity is displayed for the high
energy part of the visible spectrum.
Silver has a very similar electronic
structure to that of gold, but the
transition of electrons above the
Fermi level requires energy in excess
of that of the violet end of the visible
spectrum, and thus all the visible
spectrum is reflected, resulting in the
characteristic white metallic colour (6).
 |
Figure 3 – Reflectivity as a function of
energy of the incident light.
1 - fine gold,
2 - Ag50at%Au,
3 - Ag10at%Au,
4 - Ag5at% Au,
5 - fine silver (6). |
Colour Measuring System In some applications of gold, mostly
in jewellery and dentistry, the colour
plays an important role. For a very
long time, the colour was estimated
visually by the producer, but this is
no longer appropriate, as the human
eye is subjective. There are cases
when the colour is the sine qua non
condition, as when selecting a solder
for repairing a jewellery item. Such
repairs and today’s mass produced
jewellery both require an objective
way of measuring colour. Even small
variations in the colour of similar
items are a sign of non-professionalism
and poor quality,
and can be very costly for jewellery
manufacturers.
The need for accurate colour
measurement led to the creation of
different systems designed to assess
the colour. The Munsell system
describes the colour by using three
co-ordinates: 'hue', 'chroma' and
'value' (7). The 'hue' is the colour
name described in words (red, green,
blue, etc.), 'chroma' denotes the
intensity of the colour as the
separation from a white-grey-black
axis, and the 'value' describes the
position on the white-grey-black
scale. The Munsell system still relies
on the human eye, and colours are
described by visually comparing
them with standard files and finding
the closest match.
However, the jewellery industry
requires a system whereby a
reference point for colour can be
established in order to have
uniformity between the various
manufacturers. The DIN system used
as the European reference for gold
colour is based on physical colour
comparison with a standard gold
panel. Drawbacks of this system are
that colour identification still
depends on the eye, and lower
caratage gold panels are subject to
discolouration due to tarnishing with
time.
The Manufacturing Jewellers & Silversmiths of America's Committee
for Color References has brought out
a Gold Color Reference Kit that is
based on the CIELAB system (8, 9).
This system offers the advantage of
describing colour mathematically
without the intervention of the
human eye, and forms part of the American Society for Testing and
Materials standard on colour and
appearance. CIELAB is an
internationally recognized colour
measurement system that was
developed by CIE (the International
Commission on Illumination) and
adopted in 1976.
The CIELAB method expresses the
colour as three-dimensional coordinates:
L*, a*, and b*, where L* is
the luminance (brightness) (10). An
L* value of 0 means that no light is
reflected by the sample, and an L*
value of 100 means that all incident
light is reflected. The a* co-ordinate
measures the intensity of the green
(negative) or red (positive)
component of the spectrum, while
the b* co-ordinate measures the
intensity of the blue (negative) or
yellow (positive) component. The
colour of a sample can be defined by
plotting these co-ordinates as a point
in the three-dimensional space
depicted in Figure 4.
 |
| Figure 4 – The L*, a*, b* threedimensional
coordinate system. |
The values of L*, a* and b* of a sample are obtained as direct
readings from a spectrophotometer
which is connected to a computer.
The spectrophotometer has a
resolving power between five and
ten times greater than the human eye (7, 10). As the colour of a sample
depends on the illuminant, the
sample itself and the observer, the
spectrophotometer uses an artificial
light source that simulates natural
light, an array of photodiodes, and
the computer as the observer.
Different problems related to
measuring colour such as objectivity,
accuracy and reproducibility are
resolved by this system.
Colour Measurements Figure 5 shows the a* and b* colour
co-ordinates of various coloured gold
alloys. Their compositions are listed
in Table 1.
Table 1. Compositions of Coloured Gold Alloys (wt%)

The colour difference can also be a
measure of the tarnishing of an alloy.
By calculating the distance between
two points in the CIELAB system, the
difference in colour can be
numerically described. The DE* value
represents this distance and can be
calculated (11) with the formula:

The subscripts 1 and 2 refer to the
co-ordinates of the initial and the
tarnished sample respectively; L*, a*
and b* were defined above as being
the CIELAB colour co-ordinates of
the respective alloys/samples - see
text near Figure 4. The DE* described
the distance between two points
representing the colour of the
samples in the tridimensional CIELAB
system. By plotting the DE value
versus the heat treatment time, the
colour change can be visualized in a
graph such as the one in Figure 6. In
this case, the tarnish behaviours of
two gold alloys are compared with a
standard one.
 |
| Figure 5 – CIELAB co-ordinates of
various coloured gold alloys. |
 |
| Figure 6 – Colour differences of three
alloys after the same heat treatment in
air. The closer the curves are to the
standard, the smaller the colour
difference. |
Coloured Gold Alloys Alloying additions to gold and
copper can create various colours,
resulting in diversity in jewellery
applications. It is less well known,
however, that gold alloys can have
colours which are surprisingly
different to the conventional alloys,
as in the case of blue, black or purple gold alloys. In this paper
coloured gold alloys are classified in
the following three main
metallurgical categories:
- Au-Ag-Cu System
- Intermetallic compounds
- Surface oxide layers.
Au-Ag-Cu System The Au-Ag-Cu system is the basis of
the most common gold jewellery and
dental alloys used today, and dates
back several millennia. Colour
variations of yellow, red and green
can be obtained by different ratios of
Au:Ag:Cu. Figure 8 illustrates the rich,
yellow colour of high carat gold.
White gold is also based on the Au-
Ag-Cu system, and the white colour
results from alloying with elements
known for their bleaching
characteristics, such as nickel (Ni),
palladium (Pd), and manganese
(Mn). Alloying additions to the
ternary system are also used to
improve properties like castibility
and hardness.
 |
| Figure 8 – Items produced with hard 24
carat gold revealing the rich, yellow
colour of the metal. |
Yellow, Green and Red Gold
Alloys A multitude of hues and colours can
be obtained in the Au-Ag-Cu system
alone by variation of composition as
shown in the ternary phase diagram
in Figure 9. Additions of copper give
a reddish tint to the alloy, and
additions of silver make the alloy
greenish. In accordance with band
theory, the addition of silver to the
Au-Cu alloy causes a widening of the
energy gap that the electrons have to
overcome to reach an energy state
above the Fermi level. The wider the
gap, the higher the energy absorbed
from the incident light, and therefore
the reflectivity increases not only for
the red and yellow regions of the
spectrum, but also for the green (6).
 |
| Figure 9 – Relationship between colour
and composition in the ternary Au-Ag-Cu
system (12). |
The metallurgy of the ternary Au-
Ag-Cu system, including the orderdisorder
phenomena, has been
extensively studied, and reviewed indepth
by Prince et al (13), Rapson (14, 15), and Yasuda (16).
Zinc (Zn) additions of up to 15wt%
can be added to alloys of the Au-Ag-
Cu system to change the red colour of
copper-rich alloys to reddish yellow
or dark yellow (17). These alloys are
characterized by good workability.
Zinc additions affect both AuCu
ordering and the extent of the two
phase a1 + a2 region and, therefore,
affect the age-hardening
characteristics of the alloys (17, 18). A
relationship between the
composition and colour was
developed for 14 carat alloys
containing zinc (19). After many
colour measurements, a colour index
was designed, which can be
calculated from the weight
percentages of silver, copper and
zinc using the following formula:

Cadmium (Cd) additions of up to
4wt% have also been used for the
production of 18 carat green alloys.
75Au-23Cu-2Cd results in a light
green alloy, and 75Au-15Ag-6Cu-4Cd
is the composition of a dark green
alloy (20). Cadmium is mostly known
as an alloying element used for
production of solders. However, CdO is considered very toxic, being an
irritant to the respiratory system,
causing irreversible damage to the
kidney, and is classified by the
International Agency for Research in
Cancer as a carcinogen (21, 23).
White Gold White gold alloys were originally
developed as substitutes for
platinum, and are commonly used in
the jewellery industry for diamond
setting, combination white/yellow
jewellery items, and clasps
(electroplated with yellow gold) for
high-quality collars due to their high
strength. These alloys
have been used less than the
coloured gold alloys in the past, but
fashion trends and the increase in the
gold price in 1972-1973, brought
silver jewellery and white gold into
prominence (24). In Europe, a new
trend towards more white gold
jewellery has recently become
apparent.
The white gold alloys used in the
jewellery industry are based primarily
on Au-Cu-Ni-Zn, and Au-Pd-Ag
combinations. The bleaching effect of
nickel or palladium is a result of
lowering the reflectivity of the alloy
for the low energy part of the visible
spectrum. Absorption processes
become possible at energies
considerably lower than for pure
gold, and the reflectivity is reduced in
the red and infrared regions of the
spectrum (6). Figure 12 shows the
reflectivity curves for different nickel
and palladium-containing alloys.

click to enlarge |
Figure 12 – Reflectivity curves for Ni-(left) and Pd-(right) containing gold alloys (6).
Left:
- ine Au
- Au2at%Ni
- Au5at%Ni
- Au10at%Ni
- pure Ni.
Right:
- fine Au
- Au5at%Pd
- Au10at%Pd
- Au20at%Pd
- Au30at%Pd
- pure Pd
|
Nickel has traditionally been used
for white gold alloys because of its
low cost and strong bleaching effect.
In the gold-copper-nickel-zinc alloys,
nickel is the primary bleaching agent,
and zinc is used as secondary
bleacher to compensate for the
colouring effect of copper. Nickelcontaining
white gold alloys are
characterized by their high as-cast
hardness, rapid work hardening and
tendency to fire-cracking. The
commercial alloys undergo
separation into gold-rich (Au-Cu) and
nickel-rich (Ni-Cu) phases, which
produces considerable hardness (25).
As these alloys have poor formability,
frequent intermediate annealing
treatments are required (26). Copper
is added to improve plasticity and
workability. The use of nickelcontaining
gold alloys in the
jewellery industry has become less
popular, due to the allergic reaction
caused by nickel when in contact
with the skin (27).
Comparison between the
properties, advantages and
disadvantages of nickel- and
palladium-containing white gold
alloys has received considerable
attention in the literature (28, 31).
The palladium-containing white gold
alloys are characterized by low ascast
hardness, excellent ductility and
cold working properties, good colour
match with sufficient palladium
additions, and no tendency to firecracking.
The colour of the Au-Pd
alloys ranges from yellow gold to
white after the palladium content
reaches 15wt%. However, palladiumcontaining
gold alloys are
unattractive due to their high liquidus
temperature and high density, and in
particular because of the increasing
cost of palladium.
Primary requirements desirable in
white gold alloys include (32):
- Suitable white colour and high
reflectivity
- A reasonable hardness in the
as-cast and annealed states
(arbitrarily <200 VH)
- Adequate cold workability
formability (arbitrarily >25%
elongation)
- A relatively low liquidus
temperature (arbitrarily <1100°C)
- Cost-effective alloying elements
A considerable amount of work
has been done to identify alloying
elements that would yield the desired
combination of properties required
for an ideal white gold alloy. Table 2
summarizes the bleaching effects that
different alloying elements have on
gold.
Table 2. Potential Alloying Elements for White Gold Alloys and Indications of their Bleaching Effects
(27-29, 32, 33).

Intermetallic Compounds
Purple Gold
The intermetallic compounds are a
special group of materials with
properties very different from the
individual metals that constitute
them. An intermetallic compound is
defined by an intermediate phase in
an alloy system, having a narrow
range of homogeneity and relatively
simple stoichiometric proportions.
They are usually brittle, which makes
their use in traditional jewellery
virtually impossible, but can,
however, be faceted and used as
gemstones or inlays.
The best known among these
compounds is AuAl2, which is formed
at 79wt%Au and 21wt%Al (34). AuAl2
has a higher melting point than its
constituents, indicating the
compound’s thermodynamic
stability. The compound is
characterized by its beautiful purple
colour.
The purple gold compound has
received considerable attention from
the microelectronic industry. If bonds
between gold and aluminium in
electronic devices are heat treated
above 250°C, all five gold-aluminium
intermetallic compounds (Au4Al,
Au5Al2, Au2Al, AuAl and AuAl2)
develop (15). Studies conducted on
bimetallic metal systems revealed that
Au2Al and Au5Al2 form first, and that
AuAl2 is the final equilibrium phase (35, 36). Differential diffusion rates of
aluminium and gold lead to
formation of Kirkendall voids causing
porosity and, eventually, breakage of
the aluminium-gold joint (37). This
mechanical failure was nicknamed
‘purple plague’. However, although
the purple gold compound is brittle,
it is stable and does not disintegrate
with heat treatment (38).
The Au-Al phase diagram (Figure
14) contains a number of
intermetallic compounds formed at
compositions situated close to the
gold-rich end of the diagram. AuAl2
has a gold content close to that of an
18 carat alloy (75 per cent gold),
which makes it possible to produce a
hallmarkable 18 carat purple alloy.
 |
| Figure 14 - Au-Al phase diagram (39). |
The microstructure of an 18 carat
purple gold alloy (Au / 25wt%Al) is
shown in Figure 15, where the light
grey phase represents the purple
colour (38). As the composition
deviates from AuAl2 towards the
aluminium-rich side of the phase
diagram, the colour approaches that
of aluminium. The volume
percentage of the purple intermetallic
phase decreases, with an increase in
the second-phase consisting of an
aluminium-rich solid solution. When
the composition deviates from the
AuAl2 to the gold-rich side of the
phase diagram a new intermetallic
compound, AuAl, forms at 88wt%Au
content and replaces the AuAl2,
altering the alloy’s colour. The purple
colour is preserved until the
aluminium content decreases to
15wt% (40).
 |
| Figure 15 – Secondary electron image of
as-cast Au-25 per cent Al purple gold (38). |
The crystal structure of AuAl2 was
determined in 1934 to be the simple
cubic CaF2 structure (Figure 16).
More recent research (41) revealed
that the aluminium sublattice is
incompletely occupied and that the
actual composition of AuAl2 is closer
to Al11Au6.
 |
| Figure 16 – Crystal structure of CaF2 -
prototype for AuAl2, AuIn2 and AuGa2 (42). |
Blue Gold Two other intermetallic compounds
that are known to produce colours in
gold alloys are AuIn2, which has a
clear blue colour, and AuGa2 (6), which displays a slight bluish hue.
Figures 17 and 18 show the Au-In and
Au-Ga phase diagrams. The goldindium
intermetallic compound
AuIn2 forms at 46wt%Au, and AuGa2
at 58.5wt%Au. Both have a similar
crystal structure to the purple gold
compound which is based on the
CaF2 prototype. The blue colour is
'diluted' in a similar manner to that of
purple gold.
 |
| Figure 17 – Au-In phase diagram (39). |
 |
| Figure 18 – Au-Ga phase diagram (39). |
The intermetallic compounds
behave in some ways like pure
metals, which makes it possible to
calculate their band structures. The
reflectivity falls in the middle of the
visible spectrum and rises again
towards the violet end, giving
distinctive colours in each case (43).
Figure 19 shows the reflectivity as a
function of the energy of the incident
light for AuAl2, AuIn2, and AuGa2.
 |
Figure 19 – The reflectivity as a function
of the energy of the incident light for the
intermetallic compounds:
1 - AuAl2,
2 - AuIn2, 3 - AuGa2. (6). |
Spangold Certain Au-Cu-Al alloys form an
interesting surface texture resulting in
a new family of gold alloys known as
'Spangold' (44, 45). Two different
colours are produced by these
intermetallic compounds: a yellow
76Au-19Cu-5Al alloy, and a pink
76Au-18Cu-6Al alloy. The decorative
spangling effect is the result of a
change in the crystal structure which
creates many small facets on the
previously polished surface. During cooling from the high
temperature phase, the alloys
undergo a quasi-martensitic
transformation, which involves
ordering of the atoms and shear. The
observed behaviour can be explained
by assuming that the alloys exist in
two structures: a high-temperature
ordered B2-type phase, which is
body-centred cubic, and an ordered
phase stable at lower temperatures,
which has a body-centred tetragonal
structure (46).
By cooling the material below
20°C, the high-temperature phase is
converted to the structure of the
ordered phase irrespective of the
cooling rate. The spangling heat
treatment is normally conducted by
heating the item in a bath of hot oil at
between 150 and 200°C for 10
minutes and then cooling it to below
room temperature.
Surface Oxide Layers The coloured gold materials
described above have the common
feature of preserving the same colour
in cross section. In the quest for
different colours, another technique
is used, which involves the formation
of a coloured oxide layer on the alloy
during heat treatment in air. As gold
does not discolour in air, the metal is
alloyed with a base metal
characterized by a low oxidation
resistance. The oxide layer is only a
surface film, and has limited
thickness, which could result in the
coloured layer being damaged when
used in high wear applications.
Surface oxidation is performed as the
final treatment after the article has
been buffed and polished.
Liver of sulfur (potassium sulfide)
can be used to colour gold alloys
containing a significant quantity of
copper (18ct and lower), and a range
of colours varying from brown to
black can be obtained (20).
VA Blue Gold SA of Geneva
launched, in 1988, an alloy that turns
to a rich sapphire blue with heat
treatment at 1800°C (47, 48). The
gold, with content between 20 and 23
carat, is alloyed with ruthenium,
rhodium and three other alloying
elements. The blue surface layer is
between 3 and 6 m in thickness. An
18 carat gold alloy, which consists of
24.4wt%Fe and a maximum of
0.6wt%Ni (49), forms a blue oxide
layer on heat treatment in the
atmosphere between 450 and 600C°. The oxide layer turns to a
blue-green colour with an increase in
gold content to 85wt%.
Black gold generally contains
cobalt, which forms a black cobalt
oxide layer on the surface with heat
treatment between 700 and 950C (50, 51) . Other alloying
elements also known to give a
blackish layer on oxidation are
copper, iron and titanium. Black gold
alloys also contain at least one of the
platinum-group metals, silver, or
nickel.
Van Graan and Van der Lingen (52) improved the wear resistance of 18
carat cobalt-containing gold through
chromium additions. An electrolytic
hardening cycle such as that used
after the colouring of stainless steel
was incorporated (53). The addition
of chromium results in a thinner
oxide layer which consists mainly of
Cr2O3 and has an olive-green hue.
The wear resistance of an
Au15wt%Co10wt%Cr was
significantly better than that of a
binary Au25wt%Co alloy, although the oxide layer was approximately
five times thinner (Figure 23). The
microstructure of the alloy in Figure
23 is composed of a gold-rich phase
containing ca 94wt%Au and a cobaltrich
phase containing ca 90wt%Co.
Between the CoO layer and the
matrix, is a cobalt-depleted zone
containing only ca 2.4wt%Co,
resulting from cobalt segregation to
the surface during oxidation.
 |
| Figure 23 – Secondary electron image of
the oxide layer on the surface of the
Au25wt%Co alloy. |
The Future of Coloured Gold
Alloys Gold jewellery has enchanted people
for thousands of years. Hues and
colours are only variations on the
same artistic theme of beauty and
brilliance. Gold will always be
distinctive due to its unique yellow
colour, but the need for diversity and
originality will cause some of the
coloured gold alloys to remain in
fashion. New designs and ideas will
certainly arise, and with today's knowledge and technologies, new
solutions will most likely be found for
the challenges posed by some of the
coloured gold alloys.
Acknowledgements: This paper is published by
permission of Mintek.
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