You never know how visiting the doctor could change your life. While Tony Snodgrass of Kent Jewelry in Rolla ,Missouri, waited with his pregnant wife to be seen by their doctor, he was flipping through Missouri Conservationist magazine and…
Coveted for their beauty and rarity, fancy color diamonds remain the hottest category in the diamond market. At gem and jewelry shows during the first half of 2017, including Baselworld in late March, fancy color diamonds were among the leading…
Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set into a narrow strip of metal, is a beautiful use of melee and one of the most popular setting styles today. While more difficult than prong or bezel setting, it is a great first…
In the last issue we looked at making a basic basket crown. In this article we will fabricate a more advanced crown. One of the most versatile crowns to make is a half-basket crown. This crown can be used for diamonds or colored stones and generally…
In past issues of BENCH magazine, I have dealt heavily on making a bead raiser and using it to bead set diamonds, and I have a CD on this topic for sale. Some of you out there are probably asking, “Gerry, there must be an easier method to secure…
Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the stone is a non-standard shape, or the crown needs to fit a particular design. Although one will seldom hand fabricate a simple round basket…
This wonderful style of setting has been around the world of stone setting for many, many years. As you can observe in the picture, the simple but ornate way the initial layout is formed is the whole clincher to this intricate setting design.…
Flush setting, or “gypsy setting” as it is sometimes known, is a somewhat exacting and delicate setting technique. The main reason it is called flush setting, and the key to the whole process, is that the table of the gemstone must…
Currently identified with love, diamonds are the gemstone of choice in engagement, wedding, and anniversary rings. Contrary to popular belief, we have not always given diamonds as love tokens. That custom results from modern marketing…
One of the important reasons for the dominance of diamond in the gem market is the existence of a comprehensive and internationally-accepted system of quality analysis. This allows us common folk to buy with confidence, for with a diamond…
When setting a series of diamonds in a row, I use a 156C and just touch the inside wall of the hole. This way each and every diamond will sit at the same level and be correctly placed.
What is one of the causes of a “rippling or jagged” effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy or Flush setting? How can this be avoided? When an edge of a cutting tool (of any shape) glances over or hits a facet it will ride above that face. In…
A summary of the most common treatment techniques used on diamonds, how they are identified by trained gemologists, and what potential problems they present to manufacturers, retailers, and bench jewelers.
If you are shopping for a large diamond, .75 carat or more, you should look for a loose stone, or ask the stone be removed from the mounting if possible. When it is loose ask to see the stone weighed. Have the seller show you its color grade and show…