Fabrication
Add chain maille techniques to your jewelry making repertoire. Our videos will show you how to weave wires, link chains, and start various projects.
Gerry Lewy Video F – Bead Setting
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you the technique of bead setting...
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Gerry Lewy Video E – Princess Setting Round Claws – V Shaped Claws – Wedding band
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set a diamond...
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Fishtail Setting Tutorial
Master diamond setter Gerry Lewy shows dying art of making a fish tail setting. Made completely by hand, this is...
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Gerry Lewy Video B – Setting a Solitaire – 4 Prong – 6 Prong
Drawing on 40+ years of experience, Gerry Lewy shows you how to set a diamond in 4-prong and 6-prong solitaire...
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Gerry Lewy Video C – Bezel Setting – Channel Setting
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set a diamond...
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Hollow Ring Project
One of metal's unique qualities is its ability to be shaped and formed without breaking - its malleability. The hollow...
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Jeweler’s Torches Explained: What Kind Do You Need?
With so many torches on the market, a first-time buyer can be quickly overwhelmed by the sheer number of decisions...
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Gerry Lewy Video A – Intro – Tool Modification – Skills
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to modify simple, everyday,...
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Gerry Lewy Video D – Cluster Setting – Flush Setting
Gerry Lewy draws on his over 40 years of diamond setting experience to show you how to set gems in...
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How to Repair a Hollow Rope Chain
I took in a broken hollow rope chain bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet had caught on a desk...
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How to Make Your Own Locket
Before photography, lockets were decorated with miniature, handpainted portraits -- a luxury few could afford. The advent of affordable photographic...
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The Best Flux For Soldering Jewelry: How To Choose The Right One For Your Project
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and...
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How to Create a Basic Link Chain
Making a simple or basic link chain to display your pendant designs is a great way to add further value...
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Carat Gold Solders for Jewellery Making
In many countries, regulations govern the caratage of gold solders used to make jewellery and, with few exceptions, gold solder...
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Protecting Gems While Soldering
Repair jewelers are frequently called upon to solder close in to a set gemstone. Besides the normal dangers of heating...
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Dealing with Fire Scale
Fire scale or fire stain is a reddish purple toned 'bloom' or 'stain' that appears on silver/copper alloys such as...
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950 Palladium: Custom Made Components
When making custom jewelry with any alloy, certain components within the piece are often hand made to enhance the final...
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Basic Spiral Braiding
[Step by Step] This five-strand spiral braid is made using one of the many textile techniques that Professor Arline Fisch...
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Box Clasp Fabrication
One of the most important types of closures used in jewelry is the box clasp. This clasp and its many...
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Curb and Cable Chains Project
There are hundreds of different types of chains, each with its own system of assembly. Most chains are assembled from...
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A Replica of the Sutton Hoo Sword
Considered to be one of the richest and most important archaeological finds in Great Britain, the Ship Burial known as...
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How to Make a Three-Part Silver Ring
Using a relatively inexpensive metal and casting it in an ingot mold, you can create a sophisticated design at the...
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Introduction to Basic Concrete Jewelry
Concrete is a wonderful, hard, neutral, unprecious material with a real presence. And it can be successfully adapted to jewellery....
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Forged Leaf Brooch Tutorial
Use basic metalsmithing skills to create a brooch inspired by forms found in nature. Since the earliest civilizations, the leaf...
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Understanding the Working Titanium
Because titanium behaves somewhat differently than the standard metals in the goldsmith's workshop some special attention to its working is...
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How To Make Leaves from Metal
A short while back I prepared this short photo tutorial showing how I make leaves from metal. I have use...
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The Practical Hydraulic Press
How do you solve the problem of producing a limited edition of hand wrought, hollow forms in a reasonable amount...
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Soldering Hints and Tricks
Medical hemostats and forceps make good clips for wire solder. Soldering clips for soldering work may be made from cotter...
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Chain and Bracelet Catches 2
Box catches lend themselves to a wide range of shapes and are frequently used on chains, bracelets and cuff bracelets....
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Textile Techniques in Jewelry Making
Fabrics and precious metals would seem to be total opposites, like hot and cold or yin and yang. However, despite...
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Working With Niobium
Niobium has many properties that make it an excellent candidate for fabricated parts. Of particular interest to jewelry manufacturers and...
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The Different Kinds of Line-Folds
Line-folds offer a large area of exploration. In addition to the use of line-folds by themselves, it is valuable to...
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Introduction to Weaving Metal
Textile techniques are traditionally worked with fibers such as linen, cotton and silk. However, they can also be applied to...
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Tips on How to Master Soldering
Soldering is probably the most commonly used and least understood operation performed in the jewelry industry. Most jewelers know how...
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Metal Rolling and Drawing
Rolling can be thought of as a local, or isolated, deformation process during which thickness is decreased, length increased, and...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 1
This article will run over multiple issues of Bench Magazine. I plan to start with the basics of welding and...
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Hydraulic Die Forming for the Artist/Metalsmith
Hydraulic die forming is a process which hasn't received a lot of press. Perhaps its usefulness seems limited to mass...
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950 Palladium Bench Guide
The palladium bench guide reviews the working characteristics of palladium for the jewelry bench staff and provides an overview of...
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How to Make Hoop Earrings
Tom Dougherty of Studio 2015 in Woodstock, Illinois, had an interesting process to share about making hoop earrings from tubing....
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Platinum Durability vs Scratching
There is a major difference between durability and scratch resistance. Platinum is very durable. When scratched, the scratch actually displaces...
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The Plique a Jour Technique with Torch
Plique-a-jour, in French, means "applied to carved spaces" or "membrane where daylight passes through". The 'plique-a-jour' enameled jewelry is endowed...
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How to Make Earring Posts by Hand
Yes you can make your own earring posts. It is generally more cost effective to buy them, but making them...
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Making a Filigree Wire
One of the necessary steps in making filigree is the forming of the wire. It is made by twisting very...
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Set Up Your Torch
OK. You have just brought home your first acetylene tank and are ready to attach your new acetylene/air torch. This...
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Cracks in Jewelry Manufacturing
As many jewelry manufacturers and goldsmiths know from hard experience, cracking in jewelry can occur at any time during its...
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Making Your Own Tubing
Not all sizes and wall thicknesses of tube come seamless from a factory or refiner. Especially when working in gold...
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Basic Bead Setting Techniques
First the stone's diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in the metal for the pilot...
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Platinum Jewelry Advanced Joining Techniques
Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewelry production. Therefore it is useful to know, what...
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Damascus and Pattern Welding
True damascus steel is made by a casting process utilizing very high carbon steel. The material is held at or...
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How to make Coin Rings a secret revealed
Method to speed up production on coin ring manufacturing. All supplies and coin ring tools available at www.Coinringtools.com
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All About Hidden Hinges
Hidden hinges are sometimes used on bracelets and jewelry pieces. I saw one on a Vietnamese bracelet once and have...
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Manufacturing Mokume Gane Jewelry
Mokume gane translated from Japanese means "wood eye metal." This rare metal lamination process was developed and used by Japanese...
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International Ring Sizes Chart
This page provides an international ring sizes chart you can view and/or download to be your guide in making or...
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Basic Hinge Making Technique
It is important to pick tubing with an appropriate wall thickness and material strength for the requirements of the piece....
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Chain and Bracelet Catches 1
The first requirement of all catches is that they secure neckpieces and bracelets in such a way that they will...
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Scoring and Bending Procedures
Silicon carbide separating discs are superb for scoring metal for bending, particularly when the metal sheet is less than 4...
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Tips and Tricks for Scoring Metal
Scoring metal is incredibly important for custom jewelry construction. It enables you to reduce the number of parts in a...
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20 Laser Welding Tips
This article offers some laser welding tips that might make your life as a laser welder a bit easier. Read...
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Goldsmithing: Pitch Options
Pitch is used all over the world by goldsmiths and silversmiths to hold metal in place while working it with...
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Welding Aluminum for Successful Anodizing
This article includes descriptions of dangerous activities. These descriptions are not to be deemed instruction, any inference to the contrary...
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Wire Drawing Hints
The trick to drawing wire by hand is to grasp the tapered end that sticks out the front of the...
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Hinge Pin Installation Options
It is, however, usually best to bevel the openings of a tube slightly to give the rivet a better purchase...
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Solder Flow Retardant Notes
While goldsmiths normally strive to have their solder flow easily, there are times you don't want it to flow, such...
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Laser Welding Replacing Soldering
When first starting to work with the laser welders, operators should experiment with five or six different alloys commonly used....
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Fearless Platinum Repairs
What does it take to be successful at repairing, customizing, and servicing platinum jewelry? First, an understanding of properties unique...
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Methods to Effectively Bend Tubing
Jewelers need to bend tubing for various constructions, including neckpieces, earrings, catches, and cuff links. Normally, precious metal tubes are...
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Debunking a Soldering Myth 1
After 25 years as a jeweler, first as a student, an apprentice, an instructor, and now a master instructor and...
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Basic Sawing Techniques
In this article, we will continue our Back to Basics Series with an article on Sawing techniques.
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Cutting Jump Rings
Once you've wound jump rings around a mandrel, what's the best way to cut them apart? Some craftspeople use hand-held...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 4
I want to take what I have written in my previous articles
and start tying it into jewelry welding applications....
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 1
Granulation is the process of fusing tiny metal spheres of silver or gold, in a decorative pattern, to a surface...
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Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings
When I ran a trade shop, time was money, and I often found myself sizing 50 to 60 rings in...
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Cold Connections for Hinged Tabs
Cold connections are great alternatives to soldering, especially if you want to use fragile or flammable materials in your jewelry...
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Making a Bezel
Making a bezel for many stones such as an antique cushion garnet can be difficult when the mandrels on hand...
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Combining Yellow Gold and Palladium
Jewelry designers are discovering that the bright, white color of palladium creates a beautifully distinct contrast to the warm rich...
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De-oxidized Sterling Silver Alloys
Sterling silver alloys typically contain about 7.5 percent copper, an addition that not only provides strength to the otherwise pure...
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Creating Jewelry
For this project, the No. 1 tip was used with the ABI Pulse Arc Welder. Five tips come with the...
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Reticulation of Shakudo and Shibuichi
For a number of years I have been exploring the use of the Japanese alloy shakudo in ways other than...
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Working with Platinum & Platinum Designing
My skills as an artist combined with my years of experience at the bench have given me a practical approach...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 3
Back when I was going to school, if I had known I would be writing an article about laser welding...
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Goldsmithing: Fusing Technique
When precious metal is heated to temperatures approaching its melting point there is a short span during which the outer...
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Cluster Ring Assembly
One of the most difficult types of construction in jewelry is assembling a cluster of settings supported by a wire...
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Scoring and Bending
Scoring and bending is one of the most important ways of constructing jewellery. Scoring is a method of obtaining very...
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Anticlastic Raising Basics
The word synclastic describes a form in which the dominant curves both move in the same direction. When the two...
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How to Resize Platinum Rings
This article offers instructions on how to resize platinum rings whether for a size smaller or bigger, as well as,...
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Setting Stones in Wax
One of the most revolutionary advances in recent years, apart from laser welding, is the method of setting stones in...
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Different Types of Knuckle Hinges
While this one may seem a little odd at first glance the idea has merit. Linda Chow suggests that a...
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Aluminum: Welded and Wearable
The purpose of this paper is to acquaint the reader with the advantages and disadvantages of utilizing aluminum as a...
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Hinges with Bearings
A bearing is essentially tube sections which are attached to the metal being hinged into which the hinge itself is...
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Steps on Making a Leaf or Ruffle
This fold is an example of forging on the open side, and introduces how to use hardness dams in foldforming....
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Comparative Analysis of Three Welding Systems
AJM Magazine asked me to perform a comparative analysis of three welding systems performance in several different precious metal welding...
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Fold Forming Tool List
These are the jewelry-making tools you'll need for fold forming.
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Soldering Parts Using Pourable Soldering Jig
There is a great way of doing very complex and repeated solderings in one go. This very important method uses...
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Wire without rolling mill – Part 1
How to make wire without rolling mill. A brief sample of the Giacomo's jewelry school on line .
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Re-tipping Platinum Prongs
Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip...
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Bracelet Tongue Replacement
With the popularity of tennis bracelets over the last 20 years, replacing broken tongues has become a common repair in...
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The Metal Corrugation Project
The act of contraction into repetitive wrinkles or alternate ridges and grooves. When studying nature forms, corrugation is regularly seen...
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Securing Curved Stones for Easy Drilling
Securing curved stones when drilling can be a bit difficult. I use recycled ceramic china, beach pebbles, sea and river...
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Methods of Closing Jump Rings
In high volume production operations, many jump rings need to be closed one after another. For such fast paced operations,...
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Working with Jewelry Hinges Made Easy
Sometimes working with jewelry hinges can be too taxing. And not knowing how will make your work even harder. Here's...
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950 Palladium: White Metal Alloys
Of late, an increasing number of white precious metal alloys have been introduced into the jewelry marketplace in answer to...
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Laser Repair: Bangle Bracelet
It's an "everyday" kind of repair job. The customer brings in a bangle bracelet that has a broken safety slide....
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Chain Making Project
This project is for beginners that wish to become silversmiths, part time or full time. Keep in mind that there...
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Steps on Making a T-Fold Boat Fold
The boat fold branch of T-folds is an interesting avenue. It permits you to have a curving, concave table, and...
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Palladium Annealing and Soldering
If you're just starting to work with palladium or interested in taking the leap, you should know a few critical...
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6 Basic Wire Skills to Make a Necklace
The links in this 16-in. (40.6cm) necklace are forged so they become flat and work-hardened. The pearl in the featured...
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Laser Welding Sterling Silver
In laser welding of Sterling Silver ' lower silver bearing alloys (coin silver) we have about seven choices in laser...
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Magnesia Blocks Myth Debunked
Myth: Magnesia blocks are superior soldering surfaces to charcoal blocks: A topic that seems to raise a fair amount of...
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Basic Jewelry Construction and Soldering Principles
A short review of construction and soldering principles would be a good idea at this point. They're fairly basic. Principles...
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Perfectly Fit Bezel
Joints that fit well make soldering a snap. The next time you need to solder or fuse a bezel, try...
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Alloys – Look on the White Side
In the jewelry industry, it's rare to have an alloy without drawbacks, particularly when the alloy is not yellow. When...
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The Seven Korean Metalsmiths
Five thousand years of Korean goldsmithing was interrupted from 1913 to 1953 due to the Japanese invasion and the Korean...
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Double Tongue Tube Box Clasp
This project is a slight variation on the standard box clasp, the clasp outlined here uses two tongues rather than...
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Safety Notes for Jewelers on Pitch, Chasing and Repousse
An ancient system of working metals, this procedure uses steel punches to manipulate the metal while it is fixed onto...
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Repairing Broken Chains
The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires...
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Palladium Q&As
Its no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use...
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Handmade Acetate Spectacle Frames
describe here some broad practical steps in making an acetate spectacle frame by hand. For a brief comparison let's consider...
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Low-Cost Press Forming Technique
I first saw this technique in a work-shop held at West Dean College, Cich-ester, Great Britain, presented by Louise O'Neill...
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Debunking Three Myths About Sawing
In thinking about the daily tasks that I undertake at the bench, I realized how easy it is to fall...
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Plique-a-Jour Russian Soldering Method
There are a number of methods for plique a jour, a filigree technique that allows light to shine through the...
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Steps on Making a Basic Wedge T-fold
This page describes the steps to making a basic wedge T-fold
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Multi-Metal Lamination
Multi-metal Lamination is a type of 'faux' married metal which produces a freer, more 'painterly' effect than the hard-edge, highly...
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Prong Setting & Ring Sizing Tips
I'm going to do something different in this issue. Instead of taking you through the steps involved in putting a...
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Palladium Melt
How to use a TIG torch to melt scrap 950 TruPd for an ingot. Follow Ganoksin Guide to Industry Web...
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Victoria Lansford on the Art of Filigree
Victoria Lansford on the art of filigree—Russian or otherwise
BOX: The Art of Handcraft
Every jewelry designer can pinpoint the...
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Cold Forging of Karat Gold Findings
Cold forging in the karat gold jewelry industry has sometimes been referred to as stamping, coining and die striking. This...
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Bracelet Shortening and Reassembling
This Charles and Colvard created moissanite (hereafter referred to as moissanite) and two-tone karat gold in-line bracelet requires shortening by...
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950 Palladium: Setting Fabrication
This simple pendant design will be made with 950 palladium wire. Tack-welding technology will be used to temporarily hold the...
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Profitable Jewelry Design and Repair
A few years ago, Jewelers Circular Magazine reported that over 75% of all retail jewelers in America lose money on...
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Rendering Design and Process
This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal...
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Ornamental Chasing and Repousse
Working on the front of the piece only is called chasing. Repousse is the combination of tracing the design on...
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The Creation of White Gold
White gold presents unique challenges. Who among us has not struggled with white gold at one time or another? Some...
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Mary Lee Hu: The Purpose and Persistence of Wire
Mary Lee Mary Lee Hu has worked with wire - looping, wrapping, weaving and most notably twining—for the past 22...
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950 Palladium: Fabrication and Assembly
This article covers methods and techniques for hand fabrication, soldering and assembly for a custom designed 950 palladium and cultured...
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How to Make a Carrick Mat Knot
Step by Step Tutorial - Making Three-lead Four-bight Turks-head. The Turks-Head is a general class of three-dimensional knot that lends...
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Cufflink Hinge Pins
Cuff-links can work well as a plain three-part hinge. There are some basics to the construction of cuff-links. The cuff-link...
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Cast Hinges for Jewelers and Goldsmiths
Cast hinges are a very important part of much production jewelry work, partly because hinge assembly on such pieces is...
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Electric Kiln Fired Mokume Gane Part 1
This is the first part of a series on Electric Kiln Fired Mokume Gane. Here we will focus on a...
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Roll Printing Technique
Roll printing, or texture transfer, has been around a long time. The ancient Greeks and Romans used various dies and,...
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Double sided bezel – Part 2
how to make a double sided bezel
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950 Palladium: Selling Points
Designers and manufacturers have embraced 950 palladium alloys for a variety of jewelry manufacturing products. At the recent JA Jewelry...
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Steps on Making a T-Fold with Table Insert
This page describes the steps to using a table insert in a T-fold. A table insert is an object, or...
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Transform Nails To Riveting Tools
Soldering is a quick and easy method for joining metals. But sometimes two metals require a connection for which soldering...
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Jewelry Using a Microfold Brake
With a simple corrugation tool and basic metalsmithing skills, you can make these great earrings. The newest toy in my...
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Pinback Placement Hints
It is customary to place the joint at the right of the back of the pin and the catch on...
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Electric Kiln Fired Mokume Gane Part 2
In this article in the series we will go to billet forging and making a simple wedding band in a...
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Repairing a Sterling Silver Shell Cameo Pin
Repairs and alterations of jewelry that has been in families for generations is an ongoing request at retail service departments....
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Production Methods for Palladium Chain Making
As proudly proclaimed in its name, Balestra 1882 has manufactured high quality gold and platinum chain in Italy since 1882....
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Steps on Making a Rolled Fold Heistad Cup
Rolled folds are folds which utilize the rolling mill and it's unique properties of equal, directional pressure on the plastic...
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Master Metalsmith Alan Adler
I first discovered Allan Adler's Silversmithing Shop about 23 years ago when I arrived in Southern California to begin my...
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Fabricating a Crown to Fit a Stone
Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the...
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Platinum Fabricating & Stamping
This paper is aimed mainly at the small- to medium-sized jewelry manufacturing operations interested in working with platinum group metals....
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Tips for Creating Jump Rings
Jewelers use jump rings extensively as chain components, connectors, and linking devices for multiple construction problems. Here are a few...
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North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, etc.
This page offers a list of some useful North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, information, etc that would be very...
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Repairing an Omega Earring Clip
This project shows a challenging repair and reconstruction of earrings with a broken Omega clip and heat sensitive gemstones.
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How to Make a Pewter Sake Cup
Pewter, an alloy of tin, antimony, and copper, dominated European tableware for half a millennium until it was eclipsed by...
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How to Choose Silver Jewelry Wire
Working with silver jewelry wire is an essential skill for most jewelers. Learn the meaning of terms such as gauge,...
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Finishing Machines
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers...
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Steps on Making a Chased Wedge T-fold
This article describes the steps to making a chased wedge T-fold. To begin with a loop is made from a...
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Metal Corrugation Vocabulary
Metal corrugation is a unique roll-formed process whereby a precise and specific repetitive surface pattern is achieved when processing thin...
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Benchtop Hydroflux Welders
Connections are an important part of jewelry manufacturing. We make them with suppliers, with retailers, even with the people who...
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Shaping Non Ferrous Metals
The motivation for undertaking this research was to establish a more expedient process to achieve volumetric forms in non ferreous...
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Palladium Sizing, Welding and Engraving
In this article Chris Ploof shares tips for sizing, welding, and engraving palladium.
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Avoiding Melting Soldered Seams
Soldering is a delicate and sometimes difficult process especially when you need to solder very close to a previous solder...
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950 Palladium: Manufacturing Tips and Techniques
The "other white metal" is making its presence known and it wont be long before light, bright and white 950...
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Closing Chains
This sterling silver chocker chain is handmade from 16 gauge round wire. It has multiple interlocking links. The customer leads...
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Speedwire Solving Problems for Laser Welding
When Glenn Manning of Manning Jewelry in Foley, Alabama, bought his first laser welder almost a decade ago, he thought...
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Firescale Prevention During Vacuum Casting
Firescale has been the scourge of sterling silver casters since the first silver was poured into a mold. It has...
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Using Non-Jeweler’s Tools For Fabrication: How To Repurpose Painting Blades For Bezels
Helen I. Driggs demonstrates how some non-jewelers tools give fabrication a new twist.
My background is in graphic design, so...
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Box Clasp Tongue Repair
This 14-karat yellow gold heavy bracelet chain has a broken tongue at its critical springy location. An ideal method for...
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Laser Welding Basics – Part 2
In my last article I wrote about the various adjustable parameters, and the effects of changing those parameters. In this...
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Making a 950 Palladium Signet Ring
The natural beauty of this white, bright and light palladium ring is enhanced with hand engraving of initials done in...
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Laser Repair: Emerald & Diamond Ring
It seems like a lot of laser repairs involve emeralds. I recall the Indiana Jones movies where "Indy" comes face...
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Sheet Metal Tool Modification
Sheet Metal Tool Modification, Look for: WISS Hand Seamer (as LAST resort BRAMEC or VISE-GRIP) sheet metal bending tools and...
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How to Make a Forged Platinum Pearl Ring
This project will teach welding, soldering and forging techniques. The ring is a handsome, plain design and can be applied...
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Steps on Making a Basic T-fold
This article describes the steps to making a basic T-fold, one of the main categories of fold-forming. Numerous variations are...
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BBJ 1201 – Loop in Loop Chain
A Beads Baubles and Jewels project. Learn an old technique to create a contemporary look! Make a beautiful chain made...
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All About Jump Rings
Jump rings may be made most easily by using a small hand drill with various sizes of mandrel. Take a...
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Making Silver Whistles
Okay, so this is a bit esoteric. I mean, how many people do you know that make silver whistles. It...
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Sterling Silver Claw Money Clip – II
Sterling Silver Money Clip
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How to Mount Objects in Metal Frames
For the illusion of "floating objects" Helen I. Driggs shares her technique, a step by step guide, on how to...
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Using a mouth-pipe to solder
The second video was to be about setting up your bench and a basic set of tools you will need...
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Wire Fibula Brooch
A Beads Baubles and Jewels project. Add some pizzazz to your Wire Fibula Brooch! This is your opportunity to get...
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Laser Welding Channel Repair
In previous articles we have looked into the "art" of prong repair using the laser (Full Prong Replacement and Tipping...
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Contemporary Applications of Area Inlay
The use of area inlay, called damascening or woven inlay, is common in the ancient metalwork of Iran, India, Japan,...
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Richard Reinhardt: Discontinuous Continuity
Richard Reinhardt's best-known pieces today are silver bracelets, constructed in concave or convex forms that curve smoothly and logically in...
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Cannon Ring
Cannon Ring Creator Leigh Wulle St. Louis, MO
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Steps on Making a Plunkett Fold
One of the most intriguing, and fastest ways to make fold-forms are in the Rolled fold part of the system....
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Removal of a Broken Drill Bit With Alum
Using Alum to remove a broken drill bit from a brass part.
McCormick Alum = Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate
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Live And Let Die (Struck)
In a manufacturing environment, there are numerous pitfalls and problems that will conspire to prevent successful completion of a job....
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Making a Platinum Wire Setting
These materials are for a platinum pendant and they include wire made of a platinum iridium alloy. This article covers...
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Tubing Cutting Method
A jeweller and goldsmith has to cut tubing fairly regularly. My favorite methods include: cutting only on the upstroke using...
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Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel
For this demonstration of Setting a Pear Shape Emerald in a Full Bezel I will be setting a large emerald...
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Platinum Bench Tricks
This project is dedicated to bench tricks that make working with platinum-or working at the bench in general-easier. This is...
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Making a Filigree Jig
To begin, procure or make a box out of cardboard or balsa wood. A plastic soap dish, like the one...
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Laser Welding Tipping Prongs
Last issue we installed a new full prong on an opal and emerald pendant. This issue was supposed to be...
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Ergonomics for Bench Pin Modifications
Ergonomics is the safe and effective relationship between a worker and the work environment. For the bench jeweler who spends...
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Using Coils To Bend Tubing
Many tools sold in model/hobby stores can be used for jewelry making. During a recent visit to a hobby shop,...
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How to Make a Heistad Cup
Fold-forming is a hand-working technique applied to single sheets of metal to create surfaces and three-dimensional forms quickly without soldering....
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Sterling Silver Bracelet
To demonstrate how pulse-arc welding performs on sterling silver, this bracelet was cast, finished and assembled without the use of...
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Nickel White Gold Welding
In this article I will be referring to terms that I have defined in previous articles. If you wish to...
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Hydrogen Torch
Soldering/welding with a Spirig (Swiss) Hydrogen torch.
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Channel Inlay Bracelet
My first bracelet inlaid with mother of My pearl, petrified palm, dino bone, agate,lapis,turquoise,abalone, sonoran sunrise, (denver)granite, and tigers eye...
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SETTING IRREGULAR STONE
HOW..
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Bypass Shank Ring Assembly
Rings with by-pass shanks are right hand and left hand specific and are not interchangeable. When creating a ring with...
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950 Palladium: Laser Welding Techniques
According to Frank McAllister, the quantity of individual pieces of jewelry made from 950 palladium has surpassed the same for...
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How to Do Paper Die Embossing
The annealed metal is placed in a sandwich between soft 'pusher' paper and a hard paper which will serve as...
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The Art of Gold
'The Art of Gold,' curated by Michael Monroe, is the first major survey of contemporary American goldsmithing. The traveling exhibition...
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Wire Wrapping Enamel Pieces
Everyone has long seen gems wrapped in small wire cages with hanging devices, and more recently, the Dichroic glass pendants...
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Forged Ring Shank
This article describes step by step instructions how forged ring shank is done as described by Bradney W. Simon.
For...
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Pearl Earring Repair Using Mini Pulse III
14-karat yellow gold cultured freshwater pearl and diamond earrings will be repaired as a demonstration of the new Mini Pulse...
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Granulation Using Fusion Welding
This ring is manufactured using Hoover and Strongs 14-karat white gold alloyed with palladium. It was cast using standard casting...
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A Modern Method of Creating Enameled Filigree Jewelry
After making jewelry and doing lapidary work for twenty-five years, I began looking for another type of jewelry making which...
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Soumak on Metal
Soumak is a textile technique which is commonly found in the weaving of rugs in the Middle East. The technique...
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Architectural Portraits of Vicki Ambery-Smith
For nearly 30 years, Ambery-Smith has been using architecture as an inspiration for her work. Her name has become synonymous...
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The Jewelry of Cynthia Eid
Standing in her forming studio, surrounded by hammers, stakes, and photo equipment, metalsmith Cynthia Eid is experiencing a moment of...
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How to Make Sharp Corner Cuts
Sawing is an essential skill for a bench jeweler. This article will show you a technique that will increase your...
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Platinum Ring Sizing and Torch Welding
Sizing and torch welding a platinum ring with diamonds channel set down the shank could be risky to the diamonds....
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Lamination of Non Ferrous Metals by Diffusion
We have been interested in Mokume-gane for a number of years. The only information we could find was by the...
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Overcoming Bench Mistakes
From the Editor: It’s happened to everyone. You’re working on a project and everything is going along well until…. Oops....
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950 Palladium: Manufacturing Methods
Palladium, long used as a luxurious jewelry metal, has recently experienced renewed interest largely due to its purity, natural white...
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Superfit’s Hinge and Latch System
Getting a superior fit on your next custom ring order could be just a few mouse clicks away. Superfit Inc.,...
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Fabricating a Pear-Shaped Pendant
A customer selects a
pear-shape sea foam tourmaline from your loose stone s
and informs you she would
like a...
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How to Build Up a Thin Shank
This cultured pearl and diamond 14K yellow gold ring is in for sizing. When the take-in person inspected the ring,...
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Sewing Palm
Sewing Palm Making
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950 Palladium: Finishing Procedures
Practicing specific procedures for pre-finishing and polishing of 950 palladium will make a stunning difference in the final presentation of...
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Master Metalsmith John Prip
One observation on the career of John Prip (more often called Jack) is the way in which the man and...
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Installing and Repairing Hinge Rivets
Installing or repairing hinge rivets can be difficult with a torch. Flooding a hinge with solder and permanently joining a...
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Fine Silver Granulation – Part 2
Granulation involves placing and fusing tiny balls of silver on the surface of the backsheet in a preplanned design. The...
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Beam Path Check
With the Nd:Yag Micro Laser Welders, being used by the jewelry, and other industrial manufacturing / repair industries, there is...
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Tricks for Hollow Rings with Miniature Stakes
Make the inner band the desired size first. 18 or 20 gauge is about right. Next make the bezel or...
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Matt Gun – Working with the Blue Wax
Designing jewelry with the Matt wax extrusion gun. The blue wax is specially formulated to cool quickly, allowing the jeweler...
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Pulse Shaping: Energy Over Time
Laser technology is still so new to
our industry and there is still so much
to discover. Fortunately, I believe...
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Michael’s Designs & ArtCAM
Michael Buckley from Michael's Designs describes himself as a jeweller who has come from a traditional hand crafted approach to...
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Simple Steps to Planishing Copper
Steps and tools for simple planishing of copper. Easily remove hammer or mallet marks from a formed copper bowl. The...
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950 Palladium: Successful Design Considerations
Well designed 950 palladium jewelry plays to the strengths of this unique metal -- the aesthetics of its light, bright,...
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950 Palladium: Superior White Color
Striking differences between elements such as color, tone, texture, reflection, refraction, pattern and shape create contrast. Contrast not only enhances...
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Bezel For Cabochon Using Rhino
We have imported a cabochon 10x8 stone to make a bezel around it using Rhinoceros software.
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Wire without rolling mill – Part 3
How to make wire without rolling mill.
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Minoru Hotta
Minoru Hotta combines hundreds of cubes and rectangular solids. And here is how he does it
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American Holloware Changing Criteria
The expressions which have come to identify the pre- and post-World War II generations - Me decade, suburban frontiersmen, spoiled...
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Electric Kiln Fired Mokume Gane Part 3
This last installment of this series on Mokume Gane will focus on the different Mokume Gane pattern techniques and the...
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Tackling Chain and Finding Repair
Ask most jewelers about repairing a chain or finding and they’re likely to offer you their best Charlie Brown impression:...
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Flat Topped Solitaire Setting
The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard...
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Special Repair Work
It is not uncommon for moving parts to wear out. This is to be expected because of increased friction as...
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Matt Mini-Lathe Intro
The Matt Mini-Lathe removes wax on all kinds of circular and cylindrical forms to help you create bands, bezels, settings,...
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Making a Yellow Gold and Platinum Ring
This two-part series highlights tips and techniques, tools and accessories and procedures for custom making the 18 karat yellow gold...
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Fabricating a Free Form Opal Pendant
I received this opal from a woman who had cut it years ago. Her customer was aware it had a...
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Laser Welding Full Prong Replacement
One of the most frequent repair jobs involving the laser is prong repair. This is the first in a series...
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Making a White Gold and Turquoise Cameo Pendant
This article covers techniques for making this custom designed 14-karat white and 22-karat yellow gold granulated pendant for a customers...
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950 Palladium Bridal Jewelry Manufacturing
Retailers have been converting bridal inventories from white gold to palladium as manufacturers expand the selection of new palladium jewelry...
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Hiroko Sato Pijanowski – Artistic Research Into Spiritual Expression
Creativity is problem-solving, a skill based on the conscious and/or unconscious recombination and juxtaposition of information derived from diverse sources...
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Toolmaker’s Tools of the Trade
The word "technology" is defined as the totality of the means employed to provide the objects necessary for sustenance and...
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Making a Double Domed Pendant
This article covers techniques for making an 18-karat double domed yellow gold pendant. The front side will have a bezel...
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22K Gold Granulation on Turquoise Earrings
Featured are the materials for turquoise, platinum and 22-karat gold granulation earrings. The turquoise is 10.25 millimeters round and will...
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Making a Crown Using Welding Technology
David and Diana Howard, owners of My Jeweler, Inc. in Albuquerque , NM recently worked with a local church to...
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950 Palladium: Stock Mountings and Findings
The reintroduction of white, bright and light palladium for use in the jewelry industry has quickly introduced an expanding assortment...
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Eternity Ring
Edwardian Style Eternity Ring
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950 Palladium: Casting Procedures
With the jewelry industrys acceptance and increased use of new 950 palladium alloys for jewelry design and manufacturing, its fundamental...
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Enamel on PMC or Fine Silver
A Beads Baubles and Jewels project. Enameling on metal clay adds vibrant color and exciting design. Learn the wet packing...
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Laser Mokume – The Satow Method
The traditional Mokume process yields very beautiful results but is extremely labor intensive. Along with the high price of labor...
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Wire without rolling mill – Part 2
How to make wire without rolling mill. A brief sample of the Giacomo's jewelry school on line .
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Fabricated Reversible Pearl Pendant
Design ideas often begin one way, then evolve into something different. Such was the case with Robin Waynee's two-sided palladium...
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The New MJSA/WGC White Gold Color Index
Have you ever noticed how white gold varies in color? Many folks think white gold is the same color as...
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Basic Tubing Catch Fabrication
First one chooses an appropriate metal for the various parts, that is a metal with appropriate structural for it's thickness...
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Bayonet clasp
How it's made a tubular Bayonet clasp, for rubber or leather round cord. Hand made.
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Scorpion Pendant
How it's made a Scorpio sign gold pendant using hollow technique. (Here are some details I did not show in...
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Platinum Wire Filigree
Platinum wire filigree can be easily added to an article of jewelry providing a unique design element. The filigree can...
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Custom Made Jewelry Findings
Hali Baykov offers here some diagrams and notes, with the basic steps in making specialized findings, including double pins and...
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The Matt Gun- Using Green Wax to Model on Water
Working with the Matt Gun - Using the green wax pellets to design on water creates models with unique and...
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Cultured Baroque Pearl Necklace
This story details manufacturing and assembly steps for a cultured baroque pearl necklace with yellow gold design elements. pearl necklace....
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950 Palladium: Gemstone Setting
Setting gemstones in 950 palladium alloys is a bench jeweler'#39;s dream. Stone setters will agree that the combination of palladium'#39;s...
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Ear nuts – Part 2
How the simplest earnuts are made without any soldering operation. hand made .
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Hints on Making Tubing
This article is an extract from the book 'Hinges and Hinge-Based Catches for Jewelers and Goldsmiths'
Not all sizes and...
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Welding Technology Tool Modifications Part 2
Custom jewelry projects for tack-, fusion-, and pulse-arc-welding sometimes call for special welding tool lead attachments. Bench jewelers often make...
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950 Palladium: Fabricating Custom Earrings
This article examines manufacturing procedures used to hand fabricate 950 palladium earrings. These custom earrings designed by Lainie Mann feature...
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Design Layout Tip
Designing stock pieces for my jewelry store has never been more fun than it is now that I have a...
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An Interview with Leila Tai
In this article, renowned enamelist Leila Tai discusses her many motivations and inspirations as well as her creative process in...
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Platinum Consideration Factors
Jurgen J Maerz of the Platinum Guild International USA outlines factors to consider when adding platinum to your line of...
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Making an Alternative Filigree Jig
Begin by making a box as described in the last chapter. Cut a piece of wood 1/8 to 3/16" of...
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The Origins of Fold Forming
In 1979 and 80 I went to study at the Fachhochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim West Germany at the suggestion...
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Remount Preparation Using Tack Welding
Tacking settings in location on remounts using tack-welding technology offers the bench jeweler many advantages over traditional assembly methods... Tack-welding...
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Use a Split Mandrel for Finishing Round Bezels
A bench jeweler typically uses a split mandrel to sand and finish the inside of a ring. Various grits of...
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How to Step-Roll Wire
One requires a taper on the end of the wire to grip it with when placed through a drawplate for...
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Hollow Forms with Jaydan Moore
Jadan shows viewers how to make a hollow form ring with its most basic components and offers his personal tips...
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Coin ring tools Free punch template Demo
Demonstration of free template available at www.CoinRingTools.com How to make coin rings.
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Fixturing Using Welding Technology
Fixturing is a technique of using tack- and/or pulse-arc welding technology to temporarily position parts prior to soldering, pulse-arc or...
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Reconstructing Earrings Using Welding Technology
These fashion drop earrings contain oval diamonds weighing 1.78 carats. The customer is concerned about loss because of the open...
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Laser Welding Prong Repairs
This article provides a step by step procedure on how to do laser welding prong repairs on a ring.
Laser...
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Working With Alternative Metals
With the high price of gold, jewelry makers are looking to incorporate alternative metals into their lines. I frequently work...
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How to Modify a Goldsmith Hammer
Jewelers and metalsmiths have had to make their own tools throughout the ages to accomplish different tasks at the jeweler's...
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Rolling mill
ROAL Rolling Mill
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Laser Welding Plique a Jour Owl Brooch
Laser welders, it seems, have as many applications as there are imaginations and types of jewelry. This laser welding project...
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Meteorite Pendant by Jacob Albee
Like many jewelers, Jacob Albee of Jacob Albee Goldsmith in Burlington, Vermont, buys stones without always knowing what he’s going...
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Ring Prong Replacement
This 14-karat yellow gold, emerald and diamond ring has a broken prong requiring prong replacement. Steece Hermanson will replace the...
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Torque Necklace with Jewelry Arts Institute
www.jewelryarts.com
Learn how to make a torque necklace.
video courtesy of about.com
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Organic Geometric Bracelet
Always preferring a combination of metals in her jewelry, Sydney Lynch of Sydney Lynch Jewelry Inc. in Lincoln, Nebraska, discovered...
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Setting and Shank Assemblies
Setting and shank assemblies are routine work in many retail manufacturing jewelry shops. Heres a method for expediting this process...
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How to Make a Three Stone Dangle Pendant
The assembly of this three stone pendant pendant appears simple but when using traditional methods to position and join the...
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Laser Welding Solid Back on Opal Ring
This article is a step by step procedure in Laser Welding Solid Back on Opal Ring.
The customer wanted a...
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A Crowning Achievement Part 2
In the last issue we looked at making a basic basket crown. In this article we will fabricate a more...
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Making a Three Stone Ring – Part 1
Creating the Mounting.
Handmade ring created using findings from Southeastern Findings (sefindings.com). Basic finger ring construction demonstrated and use of...
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Tiffany Inspired Hollow Chain and Stone Set Heart Pendant Part 3
How it's made a Tiffany inspired hollow chain and a heart shaped pendant using hollow technique. 14k gold, hand made....
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950 Palladium: Unique Manufacturing Process
This Unique Settings ring is an excellent design for palladium with heavy, low-profile prongs for the 1.50 carat center diamond,...
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Eternity Band with Matrix@
Using a builder tool we will make an eternity band. Then, we will alter it so the stones don't go...
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Debunking a Soldering Myth 2
There are many myths about heating pieces during soldering that can cause innumerable problems during relatively simple soldering operations. In...
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Hand Engraved Love Token Silver Coin by Shaun Hughes
Love tokens have been made for 100 of years.
I wanted to learn hand engraving,and this is a good way...
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The Representation in Contemporary Metals
My recollection of the first piece of metalwork I owned is of a pin consisting of two poodles connected by...
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Making Custom-Designed Earrings Using Welding Technology
This custom job of 14 karat yellow gold earrings with diamonds and pink tourmaline is made easy using tack-welding technology....
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Full eBook: Doming Silver Beads
Full eBook. 96 Pages. If you've ever dreamed of making perfect silver beads every time, then this manual is just...
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How To Avoid Destructive Tack-Welds
As a technical adviser to bench jewelers I often troubleshoot tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc-welding applications. One of the more frequently...
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Cannon Ring Shoot 2
Cannon Ring Creator Leigh Wulle St. Louis, MO
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Homemade Vice Engraving
Home made engravers vice DIY
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Gorham Masterpieces in Metal Exhibition
Gorham Company was 45 years old when its 2,000-ounce "Century Vase" celebrating the nation's centennial won great acclaim at the...
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Pulse Shaping Test, 14k Ni WG
The following is one method of adjusting parameters after altering the pulse shape. This article is not intended to promote...
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Jewelry Repairs with ABI Mini Pulse Arc III
This article covers routine repair and assembly projects accomplished using Mini Pulse Arc III. Tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc equipment settings...
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Knife Making Techniques for Jewelry Design
My dad was in the Navy during World War II and was among the personnel who entered Japan shortly after...
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Resizing Damaged Rings
This page provides some helpful tips when it comes to resizing damaged rings with stones. Read on for more.
When...
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The Cutting Edge of Blade Design
To Bryant Clark design is foremost, and the designs for his hand-crafted knives are created from his knowledge of history...
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The Goldsmiths: Studio & Shop
Reviving the virtually dead enameling technique plique-à-jour, which means "the light of day as seen through a membrane," has been...
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How to make a round twisted bangle
how to make a round twisted bangle
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Platinum Granulation Process
Granulation, a process dating back a lot longer than I can remember, is clearly one of jewelry histories most prominent...
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Laser Repair: Emerald and Diamond Bracelet
This article by Steve Satow describes the procedure for repairing an emerald and diamond bracelet using laser technology.
Top view...
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Creating a 950 Palladium and Diamond Ring
This ring design provides an excellent example for gemstone setting and working characteristics of 950 palladium. The superior white color...
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Medieval arcade gemstone setting
Medieval arcade gemstone setting
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Pulse-Arc-Welder: Pearl and Diamond Pendant
This karat gold pendant design calls for several solder joints in close proximity. To facilitate the assembly, I tack and/or...
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