Our Bench Tips and Tricks section covers jewelry making and repairs. Get the most from your tools and materials, from mandrels to palladium to gems.
Ask any experienced jeweler, and they’ll tell you: it takes stones to become a gem setter. You literally have to put hundreds of stones in their place, time and time again, to be able to reach a point of consistent…
In times of increased price competition and global producers, cooperation with designers is also an important factor for large jewelry companies in order to develop new collections in a rapid and targeted manner. Increasing numbers of companies are attempting to sharpen their profiles by drawing on the services of (freelance) designers. Unfortunately, very few of the jewelry designers have an education that equips them for this kind of service. Simple rules and a check program for constructive cooperation facilitate the work and increase the probability that both sides will experience success.
This article offers some laser welding tips that might make your life as a laser welder a bit easier. Read on for some interesting tips and tricks! Laser Welding Tips 1. Keep your laser welder clean, especially the protective lens inside…
Pantone’s picks are comforting, enveloping, and easy to wear. Warm. Comforting. Effortless. These are just a few of the words being used to describe Pantone’s top 10 colors for Fall 2017. The palette for the upcoming season is bookended by dynamic Grenadine…
My kids are grown now, but I still recall how effective they were at pushing each other’s buttons when they were young. They knew just how to rile one another up to create a diversion, assuage boredom, or engage in…
Editor’s Note: Looking ahead at the coming year, it’s just as important to consider the challenges facing the jewelry industry as it is to focus on the trends. Turning those challenges into opportunities will be key to increasing the competitive…
Available in a wide variety of formulas, epoxy resins are used in jewelry making as adhesives, as coatings, and for casting. This reference article outlines the safety requirements for mixing and working with epoxy resins and introduces how to use adhesive and coating epoxy resins to include images and found objects in your work. The three featured projects demonstrate how to capture images in open and closed bezels as well as how to make a three-dimensional collage by layering resin in a deep reservoir..
Since the advent of the Information Age, the marketing landscape has undergone a radical transformation. Pre-internet, businesses used to be in control of their relationships with customers, and could use the traditional sales funnel model to push prospects through the…
The hazy days of summer aren’t too soon to begin thinking of designs for the holidays—and how to best cast them. During these hot summer days, the last thing you want to think about is the cold winter that’s just a…
The links in this 16-in. (40.6cm) necklace are forged so they become flat and work-hardened. The pearl in the featured necklace is held in place merely by the tension between the wire loops in the pendant. Four styles of links define the spare and simple line of this necklace. Even the shape of the hook-and-eye clasp echoes the rhythm of the overall design.
The palladium bench guide reviews the working characteristics of palladium for the jewelry bench staff and provides an overview of the unique advantages and benefits of palladium jewelry for managers, sales professionals and consumers. It is intended to serve as a source for information on the most commonly encountered palladium jewelry scenarios and the related materials available in the industry today.
Michael Rowe uses functional containers as a base from which to explore formal studies of space, form and balance, which are enhanced by his expressive use of patination. His holloware gains strength from the fact that he is not distracted…
This Metalsmith’s Guide to Los Angeles can be useful to metalsmiths who are new to the Los Angeles area or to people who have been living here and developed an interest in the metalsmithing world. The information is based on…
Nothing is simple in Tokyo—not the language, not the culture, not the geography. Even getting information is a major task and everything takes longer than you think it will. So the essential point to remember when you come to Tokyo…
This is a continuing series of metalsmith’s guides to cities, regions and museums throughout the world. The purpose of these guides is to give those interested in viewing metalwork during their travels an introduction to the treasures and resources, both…
You start to turn and there it is again. You go to stand up from your chair and it happens again. It’s that nagging pain in your neck or lower back. After several years on the bench, jewelers often develop chronic neck or back injuries.
When working with a client to discern their personal style, do you ever administer a personality test? If not, you may want to start because it can reveal more than you might realize about your client’s tastes. Calla Gold of…
Jump rings may be made most easily by using a small hand drill with various sizes of mandrel. Take a broken burr, old needle file handles or a piece of drill rod and make a slit near the end. (I would use a separating disc to do this). Or one may drill a hole through the rod. Then it may be set into a hand drill or a flex shaft handpiece.
This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design. For this 1989 Spring issue, Tim McCreight talks about experience and how and what it teaches you to hone your…
This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design. For this 1987 Spring issue, Tim McCreight talks about learning from history and using it to reflect your…
This article is one of a series of articles from Metalsmith Magazine “Art and Technics” talking about techniques in craftsmanship and design. For this 1989 Fall issue, Tim McCreight talks about technical mastery. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Technical mastery is almost always a…
The Art versus Craft issue is a complex question and one that has bedeviled creators a great deal in the last fifty years or so. I once heard a gallery owner say that the difference between an art object and a craft object is $3000. The American Craft Council’s director Carmine Branagan says that the discussion is unimportant, that the craft/art debate is one of craftspeople talking to themselves, about issues that do not matter at all to the general public – they do not care about this particular debate. She holds that if we are educating the culture as makers then the real issue is getting the work and what it means out and before the public, especially through galleries, museums and publications, the validators in society.
Soldering is a delicate and sometimes difficult process especially when you need to solder very close to a previous solder seam. Without extra care, you can easily melt that prior seam and dislodge the parts. One solution is to drop down a temperature level for the second seam.
Design is a perennial issue for all who produce objects meant for a specific use, utilitarian, in contrast to objects which have an exclusively expressive function. In America the postwar period dating from the 40’s was characterized by a concern for functional…
First the stone’s diameter is measured at the pavillion and a dent is made in the metal for the pilot drill (about 1mm diameter). Then the metal is drilled through. The metal is drilled again until the hole is about 3/4 the size of the stone’s diameter. Lubricate the drill bit. As long as there is a 0.3 mm seat left there is enough to set with.
Over the years, bad habits creep into our work procedures. Periodical review of our techniques is needed to assure us that these “bad habits” are not allowed to continue to effect the quality of our work. In this article, we will continue our Back to Basics Series with an article on Filing.
Have a fire plan; ask your fire department for advice. Keep the appropriate extinguishers around and in good shape. Get ABC all-purpose extinguishers. Get the manufacturers manual and read all the instructions carefully at least three times. Review your fire safety now and then. Make sure you know how to use an extinguisher properly, sweeping back and forth at the base of the fire from 6-10 feet away. Realize that your extinguisher will only work for 15-20 seconds, so have more than one around. Mount them near exits. Dry chemical extinguishers of the stored pressure kind need to be.
Making jewelry is sometimes seen as a difficult or an expensive proposition. In reality a basic metal working shop can be set up quite inexpensively. Cutting (separating materials), soldered construction and finishing are the three main things that jewellers do and what follows is a list of basic tools for doing these things. One should be able to set up a basic shop for less than a hundred dollars.
In working on jewelry there are many tasks that seem simple – you just do it and don’t think about techniques. Milling is a prime example. You stick a bur in your flex-shaft, step on the pedal, and away you…
Many jewelers see polishing as a mundane task. However, it is one of the most important operations in the process of repairing or making jewelry. The final appearance of the jewelry to a large extent, will determine the acceptability of…
Saving some dollars on equipment can be really helpful to a shop’s bottom line. Often tools and equipment from other industries prove useful, and are sometimes cheaper than regular tool suppliers. I think this behavior used to be called ‘scrounging’.
Aim for: a well laid-out, orderly workshop, well-lit by multiple non glare light sources, well-maintained equipment, electrically and fire safe, with low dust and few procedures involving solvents, with excellent local ventilation at the appropriate work stations (such as investing or melting areas), the use of work clothing, which is cleaned frequently, lots of personal safety equipment.
In this article, we will continue our Back to Basics Series with an article on Sawing techniques.
A vertical copy stand is sometimes used for shooting prints, drawings, jewelry and other fairly flat objects. A copy stand is designed so that one has vertical movement of the camera while it faces down. There are usually fixed lights at 45 degree angles to the shooting surface. The vertical column that the camera is mounted on keeps the plane of the film parallel to the shooting surface which gives good results for.
[Step by Step] This five-strand spiral braid is made using one of the many textile techniques that Professor Arline Fisch demonstrated at the “Textile Techniques in Metals” workshop at the Bead’Button Show in June 2006. The simplicity of this technique offers quick and beautiful results even for a beginner metalsmith. To make the braid wearable, you will learn how to fabricate end caps and how to forge an S-hook clasp.
In past issues of BENCH magazine, I have dealt heavily on making a bead raiser and using it to bead set diamonds, and I have a CD on this topic for sale. Some of you out there are probably asking,…
Bench Jewelers often use different methods to accomplish the same work. I believe the end results are what is important, not the method used to get there. In jewelry work the ends often justifies the means. This is not more evident than in bead setting. I know jewelers who cut the seat with round, bud, cone, setting, heart, or bearing burs. Then they cut the excess metal away with flat, knife, or onglette gravers, or they use heart, wheel, round, or knife edge burs. Some even use needle files or saw blades.
Like most bench jewelers I do a lot of bead setting and like most
bench jewelers I take pride in my work. When I bead set I want crisp
and clean beads. Recently, I was setting one pointers into white
gold skirts that would become a pair of earrings. I hadnt gotten
very far when I noticed that the beads were getting raggedy and
there was quite a bit of finning between the edges of the bead and
the melee. I knew this meant that my beading tool was becoming dull.
I would like to share with you a tool tip for sharpening a worn out
beading tool.
As the target comes into focus and the operator aligns the crosshairs, elements of the world slowly cease to exist until the only things left are the target and the operator’s breath. As the rhythm of her respiration cycles — breathe in, breathe out, pause; breathe in, breathe out, pause — even her breath disappears into the target. When all is calm, the sound of the discharge echoes as a small puff of smoke reveals that the target has changed forever. The operator smiles, triumphant. Her mission is complete with no collateral damage: The finding is in place — and the very expensive emerald next to it is unharmed. As with many bench operations in a goldsmith’s day, the ability to successfully complete the task came down to one thing — holding steady.
This article page is from a section “Favorite Tips” from BENCH Magazine 2002 submitted by readers and BENCH Magazine Staff covering favorite tips on removing and straightening kinks in chains, jewelry cleansing, chain repair and more. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ To straighten kinks…
This article page is from a section “Favorite Tips” from BENCH Magazine 2002 submitted by readers and BENCH Magazine Staff. Read on for more details. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ A ring roller designed to enlarge rings can be used to tighten stones in…
This article page is from a section “Favorite Tips” from BENCH Magazine 2002 submitted by readers and BENCH Magazine Staff covering inlay gold into platinum and chain repair, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ To inlay gold into platinum first cut a groove into the…
This article page is from a section “Favorite Tips” from BENCH Magazine 2002 submitted by readers and BENCH Magazine Staff covering polishing chains, pin tumbler, bright cutting plastic lid cutting tricks and more, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I polish chains by placing them…
This article page is from a section “Favorite Tips” from BENCH Magazine 2002 submitted by readers and BENCH Magazine Staff covering bench pins and shims, ring holder, setting melee and more, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I’ve used spring clothespins in many configurations for…
To stretch a wedding band that is larger than your ring stretcher mandrel, slip a copper sleeve over the mandrel and place the ring over the sleeve. The mandrel will press out on the copper sleeve, which in turn will…
This article lists the following useful bench tools for jewelers including contact information where they can be purchased or ordered. Grobet USA LED Bench Lamp Suitable for use at the bench or on the sales floor, the Grobet USA LED Bench…
Take a look around you. Chances are there is a flex-shaft or a dust collector you’ve neglected because you’ve been too busy making jewelry. As you put your heart and soul into your work, don’t forget to take a little time to give some TLC to your bench tools and equipment. Follow this simple maintenance schedule suggested by the bench gurus at Stuller Inc. to keep your favorite tools shipshape..
What is a bench trick? A shortcut? A faster way of doing something? A better method? A tool used for one purpose converted to another? A tool or technique that saves time, effort, thinking and work? Bench tricks are keys to understanding Process, signifiers that someone has understood the process occurring and they are therefore useful to understanding the nature of metal and metalworking. Think process and look for patterns.
Contemporary Studio Jewelry There are few faster ways to clear a room than to invite a conversation about the difference between Art and Craft. Not only are these conversations tedious and unproductive, but they generally work from the defensive premise…
One of the most basic designs in stone setting is Bezel Setting. It is rudimentary in its concept, and it is very pleasing to the eye in its simplicity. This concept blends with the smooth vertical shape of the stone….
Bezel setting is one of the most secure methods of setting a gemstone into a mounting, but one of the most difficult to do cleanly. Bezel setting, by its very nature, requires you to deform and wrinkle the metal around…
Bezel setting the center sapphire is normally pretty straight-forward, but I would like to share a few tricks that have helped me improve the outcome. Please follow along as I bezel set this sapphire using a lathe or a watch-maker’s…
Titanium and the other refractory metals other the metalsmith a new range of exotic colors – colors that are beautiful and subtle. The saying “less is more applies to titanium since the colors are created by the refraction of light…
Today’s metalsmith and jewelry designer has available a full range of reference books—from the general text, which gives a broad overview, to the topical text, which explores a specific technique in great detail. In addition, we now have the popular…
My first reaction when I heard about this book was, “It’s about time.” Think of it: If you tried to read every new book on jewelry-making, you would be reading most of the time. Yet, how many books can you…
One of the most important types of closures used in jewelry is the box clasp. This clasp and its many variations are usually built into jewelry such as bracelets, necklaces, and chains. However, as an exercise, this project demonstrates the fabrication of a sample clasp as an independent unit..
When we replaced our vacuum tubes for the buffer system I chose to run PVC again. The PVC is easy to acquire and assemble and the smooth sides promote air flow. Most fittings are cemented but a few strategic points…
This bench has been designed so it can be made from easily available materials without sophisticated woodworking equipment. People with woodworking skills might use these ideas as a point of departure.
This sophisticated bench costs a little more and is a bit more difficult to make than the one on the preceding page, but the extra effort will be repaid by years of efficient work. Use this pattern as a starting point, but feel free to make changes to suit your individual needs.
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about Business Software Tools. See related…
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about CAD/CAM Designer Tools. See related…
The strength of Computer Aided Design & Manufacturing is similar to that of any other tool on the bench:it is most effective when itis the right tool for the job.Gemvision’s Matrix 4.0 provides users with powerful design, presentation,and production capabilities….
What if you could sit down at your computer, spend a little time manipulating the mouse, keyboard or electronic pencil and create a piece of jewelry; then send that electronic creation to a small, desktop machine which would carve your…
A cardboard disc sander is a very useful tool. One uses the side or large flap of a fairly rigid corrugated cardboard box. Make sure it has not been bent or creased to damage its rigidity. Make sure one side is smooth.
Carpal tunnel syndrome is only one of many kinds of repetitive strain injuries (RSIs) and cumulative trauma disorders (CTDs). RSI, CTD and ‘overuse syndrome’ are reasonably interchangeable in meaning. Carpal tunnel syndrome is, however, the most.
The casting investment process enjoys wide popularity in the production of commercial and one-of-a-kind art metal objects. However, production practice varies widely. At one extreme, design renderings are turned over to a production shop; at the other, the complete production…
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about Casting Tools and Products. See…
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about Chain & Findings. See related…
Over the past decade, channel setting has grown in popularity. Setting small diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and even emeralds into channels has become commonplace in most shops. Hardly a week goes by without some form of repair being preformed on a channel set piece. The following tips will hopefully make this work a little easier.
The popularity of white gold has us all looking to the most perplexing gold we use. Perplexing a variety of ways. Why would we want to ‘colorize’ gold at all? Design creativity of course, but the color purists (you know who you are) have their say too. After all there are two other precious metals that are white. I happen to like white gold on its own or for contrast. We can not just use platinum instead. A larger item can be unwieldy in platinum, and silver is a different look and market anyway.
Let’s face it, not every snippet of solder winds up in your work. Some pieces fly away during clipping, while others jump on the floor or fall into your catch pan, never to be found again. You might even accidentally spill one tray of solder snippets into another, mixing two different grades and creating a useless chaos. (After all, unless you are 100 percent sure which grade of solder snippet you have, you cannot use it.) To make your life easy…
In the quest to get some insights into designing and marketing customized jewelry “customer whisperers” agreed that communication is the key to customer satisfaction. Read on for a deeper understanding of this discovery. Shopping for jewelry used to be an…
Myth: Singeing buffs to prep them is faster and more effective than raking them.
There are as many people in favor of raking as a buff preparation method as those who prefer singeing. So armed with two brand new, six-inch stitched muslin buffs and a stopwatch, I set out to discover which buff preparation method was faster and more effective..
The use of area inlay, called damascening or woven inlay, is common in the ancient metalwork of Iran, India, Japan, Spain and other countries. Since most applications require the use of ferrous metals as base materials, area inlay is not…
Granulation, a technique used in jewelry and metalwork, is the decorative use of minute metal granules attached to the surface of the same metal, or, in some cases, attached to each other. In attaching the granules to a surface or…
This is a method to reduce technical problems which one repeatedly experienes. We all find during the learning process that there are times when the same problem presents itself over and over again. Sometimes when beginning one overworks pieces to death in attempts to effect repairs, getting ever deeper into a mess by trying to fix the mistakes, rather…
Steve Satow describes the procedure on creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant. Creating a 14KW Rubellite Tourmaline Pendant Beginning components are two 14kw pendants, a lobster claw, a 6mm jump ring, a 16 inch strand of 6mm pearls and a…
Jewelers have been going green for many years by recycling old or worn-out tools into something new and useful. Setting burrs, normally used to cut seats in prongs, can’t be used once they become worn or damaged. But instead of throwing them away, you can create a new tool called a rotary burnisher to repair solder pits or minor surface porosity on a casting.
A worn-out bristle brush can easily be recycled into a useful tool called a whip burnisher or rotary hammer to improve or even eliminate minor imperfections and surface porosity in castings and other metal surfaces.
This article is about creating and sharpening gravers before using for your work or project as described by Tom Weishaar. Before beginning a discussion on creating a graver it might be helpful to identify the different parts of a graver. Prior…
Sometimes, holding on to really little parts is the greatest challenge of my day. I use tiny cabochons almost daily for rings and stone-on-stone work, and I can’t tell you how many 5 mm bezels I have mangled or lost…
In 1959, Victor Papanek gave the third-year students in his creative engineering seminar at Ontario College of Art this problem: “Reexamine keyboard controls on a typewriter in relation to the human hand and fatigue factors. Design a new control board…
Ask any bench jeweler the best way to secure a band-aid to his or her cut finger during a day of working at the bench, and duct tape is bound to enter into the equation. Most jewelers have used duct tape to bind cuts and secure various pieces of equipment in the shop. The following are some other creative uses for this super strong tape at the bench.
Steve Satow shares his procedure on how to customize bench tools like a beading tool retipper, small parts trays and hand held polisher, and a tip for your Solder Station. Beading Tool Retipper Refinishing beading tools is more convenient and much cheaper…
Steve Satow shows the procedure for a customized earring setting pliers using a normal setting pliers. Normal setting pliers can be modified to set stones in loose heads and earrings. Please wear your safety glasses. Most setting pliers have a…
I like to hold small pieces of metal with a clamp that allows me to file hands free. I feel it gives me better control, which means faster jobs and better fits. I took a plain mini hand vise and…
Steve Satow shares his procedure for customized solder holder and blast shield, and how to make using a Jet Sett easier with a melter and holder. Solder Holder When I was in school we used to do a lot of…
Find a turntable that is size appropriate for your bench. In this case mine is 18 inches wide. If possible find one with ball bearings to make it work smoother. Buy a 1/4 sheet of sanded on one side 1/2 inch…
Much of my business comes from re-cutting colored gems that have been chipped, scratched and broken (not always by the goldsmith). Replacing broken in lay material is another favorite. I know there will always be a need for cutting and…
Once you’ve wound jump rings around a mandrel, what’s the best way to cut them apart? Some craftspeople use hand-held side cutters, but there is one problem with this method – it cuts only one side of the wire flush. Therefore, you have to cut the ring twice, which results in a small amount of waste and slightly varying ring diameters.
Fire scale or fire stain is a reddish purple toned ‘bloom’ or ‘stain’ that appears on silver/copper alloys such as sterling silver when they are heated in the presence of oxygen. It even occurs in gold alloys with high copper contents. As it generally appears in the form of blotchy patches following abrasive polishing it is seen as a blemish which destroys the clear reflectivity of finished silver surfaces.
After 25 years as a jeweler, first as a student, an apprentice, an instructor, and now a master instructor and director of the Jewelry Arts Institute in New York City, I’ve come to realize that much of the basic information about…
There are many myths about heating pieces during soldering that can cause innumerable problems during relatively simple soldering operations. In this occasional column, I will address the top soldering myths and the essential criteria to be used in evaluating soldering…
In thinking about the daily tasks that I undertake at the bench, I realized how easy it is to fall back on old habits, and to make assumptions and generalizations, particularly about the accuracy of things that I was taught early on in my career. The following are a few myths about one of the most basic procedures at the bench: sawing.
Dermatitis is a group of skin conditions that may often be contracted by exposure to chemicals and metals. These may include scaling, splitting, eczema and so on. Dermatitis is a real hazard for jewelers. Metal workers suffer high rates of skin disorders.
Designing stock pieces for my jewelry store has never been more fun than it is now that I have a laser welder in my shop. When I was learning to use the laser, one of the trainers gave me a fun tip for assembling my designs that I love to share with other jewelers.
What is one of the causes of a “rippling or jagged” effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy or Flush setting? How can this be avoided? When an edge of a cutting tool (of any shape) glances over or hits a facet it will ride above that face. In turn, it will.
When setting a series of diamonds in a row, I use a 156C and just touch the inside wall of the hole. This way each and every diamond will sit at the same level and be correctly placed.
As a Business Strategy it is important to recognize the differences between managing and micromanaging. Read on for Andrea Hill’s take on losing control on managing as a manager. I once had an employee who knew absolutely everything. He was…
Consumers still want to buy and wear jewelry. You’re just going to have to leap to reach them. Confront the unknown to discover new customers If you’ve been reading this column for a while, then you’ve grown up with my kids….
Shawna Kulpa takes a look into the assaying methods refiners use to determine the value of a lot. This article is a discussion on refiner methods from the journey a piece of metal goes through to how much they are worth….
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about Display & Packaging. See related…
We all drill, all the time. We take drills and what they do for granted, but reviewing the obvious doesnt hurt — and there may be a nugget of new information that is brought to light.
Dust is small particles of a material. There are dusts you can see in the air; these can be breathed in, and because the particles are fairly large, they end up in the upper portions of the lungs. Some can be cleared from the body by its natural mucus where it is bound up, and brought up into the esophagus. From there it is swallowed and so exposes the stomach tissue to whatever chemical was ingested. Jewelry polishers may have elevated rates of stomach cancer as a result of this. With dust in the air, however, it is the smaller, invisible particles that are the most dangerous, and these stay in your lungs.
The “General Safety Rules for Tools” article applies here too, as with all power tools. Read the instruction manuals and directions most carefully. Plating and stripping solutions usually contain cyanides, bases or acids which, if mixed together, are used improperly or carelessly or come in contact with a cyanide plating solution can release hydrogen cyanide gas, which was used by the Nazis in the gas chambers and is still used in gas executions in the United States.
After you learn to apply enamels by sifting, wet packing, brushing on crackle and firing the base coats, you are ready for some of the simple techniques that require only a feel for color. You can design a piece by repeating one technique or learning to combine techniques. If you are enameling samples of the technique on 3″ round or square 18 ga copper, one coat of crackle on the back is adequate. My beginners’ course ended with Doris Hall’s paisley design, which combined many techniques, and a simple cloisonn piece on a 1″ disc of fine silver.
Ergonomics is the safe and effective relationship between a worker and the work environment. For the bench jeweler who spends hours working with a bench pin, it is important to make it work efficiently and effectively for you. There are many modifications you can make to ensure this. People prefer different bench pins, namely a flat piercing pin vs. an angled working pin. Some modifications can be used with either type, while others work better with a specific style of bench pin.
One of the most difficult aspects of soldering is to heat the piece properly so that the solder will flow. For jobs involving small items, such as soldering the seam on a jump ring, this entails concentrated heating in a localized area, Most times, though, you must heat the entire piece of metal, especially when working on silver.
Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the stone is a non-standard shape, or the crown needs to fit a particular design. Although one will seldom hand fabricate a simple round basket crown, constructing one gives the jeweler the basic knowledge and understanding of crown construction needed when creating a more advanced crown.
I received this opal from a woman who had cut it years ago. Her customer was aware it had a small chip on the corner and she was leery of setting it. I wasn’t sure if it had been kept…
Firescale has been the scourge of sterling silver casters since the first silver was poured into a mold. It has been a thorn in the side of silver fabricators. Fortunately there are ways to prevent fire scale while silver soldering. This paper describes a simple, inexpensive method of preventing fire scale during vacuum casting.
Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see any damage or potential problems that are not marked clearly on the envelope, inform the store manager or sales clerk who took in the job so that they can notify the customer. It is extremely important that you inform them now, before any work is performed, rather than wait until later to inform them.
The Flat Topped Solitaire Setting is a popular style setting that is slightly more complicated to set than the standard solitaire mounting. I prefer this ring design as it makes the smaller stone app ear slightly larger in its overall…
A good selection of burs may be had from your dentist. Dentists often throw out burrs which still have a reasonable life left in them for a jeweller. The same goes for the probes and other tools. Some dentists are nervous about giving tools away.
Kohler Company During April and May of 1993 I was a resident artist at the Kohler Company factory in Sheboygan, Wisconsin. The experience has changed the way that I think about myself as well as giving me new insights into…
From the Bench: Sisyphus In the city where I grew up – Chicago – the ghettos were literally crumbling. My house had a fireplace and my brother, sister, and I would take a wagon into the ghetto to collect firewood….
Jewelers work with compressed gases of all kinds, in torch systems, kilns, casting machines, abrasive blasters, laser welding machines needing argon and more. Many of these gases are flammable and an explosion hazard, acetylene, propane and hydrogen are examples. Oxygen is often used with these gases. Oxygen is a potent fire risk if it comes in contact with oils, greases or flammable materials, even fingerprint grease left in a fitting has caused a fire before.
Many gemstone owners enjoy wearing their treasures. Few things can ruin that enjoyment faster than the discovery of damage such as scratches, chips, or discoloration. Unfortunately, some damage is permanent. The good news is that proper cleaning and care prevents most gemstone damage.
The most important detail in the preparation of gemstone for chemical coloration is that it be clean. Oil and grease, especially, must be entirely removed. I have found it practical to keep a bucket of detergent solution (ordinarily laundry detergent) standing beside the slab saw. Two or three cups full of detergent powder in about four gallons of water (in a five gallon bucket) is adequate. As the slabs come from the saw, they are dropped carefully into the bucket and allowed to accumulate there.
The most widely-used gemstone exploration techniques today are ground-penetrating radar, known as GPR; trace-element analysis, which involves seeking signature elements as clues to where gems may lie; and use of a device called a ‘terra thumper,’ which identifies differences in the structure of the host rock through seismic analysis. GPR has proven useful in providing subsurface mapping of potential gem-bearing pockets, or ‘vugs,’ but the readings can be confused by moisture in the ground, and they can’t separate gem-bearing pockets from the non-gem-bearing ones.
“You should know what kind of shape you’re in,” joked Arthur Anton Skuratowicz during an MJSA At the Bench Live demonstration he gave last month at the AGTA GemFair in Tucson. While sharing gemstone setting tips for fancy shaped and…
By Old burs can serve a number of useful purposes in daily bench work. Here are two tips from jewelers at Chris Ploof Studio in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, for giving new life to old burs.
Gloves are used to prevent skin contact with a hazard, whether physical (like a razor edge on a piece of metal), or chemical (such as an alkaline solution like you get when mixing casting investment). Use the correct type of gloves for the chemical you are using. Not all gloves hold up to the same things so consult a chart to see which ones are suitable to which chemicals.
Every bench jeweler has experienced the frustration of trying to sand and polish a nearly inaccessible area on a piece of jewelry. The goldsmith who can detail these small corners and crevices can bring his or her work up to the level of fine jewelry. Anything that gives the work a cleaner, more attractive look translates into greater sales in the showcase.
This article briefly reviews issues of studio safety and discusses ways of recognizing risks in the studio and reducing hazard by substitution of materials or processes. Hygiene: In the Workshop and Personal Hygiene, Safety with Equipment Machinery, Metalworking Machinery, Studio Illumination, Protective Devices, Ventilation, Skin Protection and Protective Clothing are some of the topics covered.
A sharp graver can improve cutting performance at the bench. There are several approaches to use when detailing a graver, including the following.
This is the first in a two-part series on green bench tips shared by jewelers who are taking an eco-friendlier approach in their shops. Small changes at the bench can make a difference. Window to the World Jennifer Dawes, Dawes Design,…
This is the second in a two-part series on green bench tips shared by jewelers who are taking another approach for their shops, eco friendly shops. A Clean Break with Chemicals Jennifer Dawes, Dawes Design, Santa Rosa, California Tired of…
Besides the safety instructions that you get from a tool manufacturer in the tool manual it may be necessary for you to write your own sets of rules up to keep you out of trouble. This is especially important with employees. What follows is an example of thinking about what can go wrong with a tool. The tool used as an example is a mounted grinder. You can do the same sort of rule compilation with all the tools in your shop. See the “General Safety Rules for Tools” article as a starting point, then each tool will have certain idiosyncrasies which need to be noted. Think of it as “What advice would I give to someone to keep them out ot trouble on this machine?”.
There are times during the setters workday where there is a need for a specific tool, but there nothing is available at the local tool supply store. With a little creativity you can modify many of the tools you have…
Goldsmiths and silversmiths use hammers frequently in their work, silversmiths especially. A regular trade goldsmith might use a bench hammer with a ring on a mandrel twenty or more times a day. Blacksmithing operations use coal fires, gas torches and kilns..
Ever since childhood, I’ve been fascinated by rocks and gems. I started cutting cabs more than 40 years ago, and have been faceting colored stones for about 30 years. I do precision cutting of colored gems these days, and that…
I’m hoping this series of articles will save some of you time, money, and embarrassment by discussing some of the common bench procedures that can easily lead to damage of colored stones – and how to avoid it. Some of…
Shaping a bezel on stakes is a process of forming the metal by stretching. First the metal is bent with pliers to fit the gem, forming a shape smaller than the stone while following its contour. The gauge of the sheet metal chosen is slightly thicker than the final result. As the process unfolds, the metal is plannished (hammered) on small stakes, causing the metal to conform to the stake as it stretches. If the gemstone and the shape of the stake are the same, a very accurate bezel can be made with a minimum of time. The advantages of this technique become obvious to the craftsperson that uses creatively shaped stones or gems that do not conform to the bezel mandrels on hand.
This article is an extract from the book ‘Hinges and Hinge-Based Catches for Jewelers and Goldsmiths’ Not all sizes and wall thicknesses of tube come seamless from a factory or refiner. Especially when working in gold it is not cost…
Homemade flex-shaft guard using a soft drink plastic bottle, a solution to the annoying and potentially hazardous problem of breathing dust from polishing and rubber wheels used with your flex-shaft.
This diagram shows how jewelers approach working in the field in terms of how they relate to the material. The approaches chosen will ‘filter’ the results available, that is that what kind of work you do is partly a reflection of the way you approach working with the material. Traditionally much jewelry has been ‘cut and bend’. This diagram allows you to examine how you approach working with metal and then perhaps gives you clues about where you might want to experiment so as to push yourself.
The successful documentation of finished work is of vital concern to every artist. Excellent slides make better teaching tools, and it goes without saying that the quality of photographs weighs heavily when work is being considered for juried exhibitions. I…
Making a simple or basic link chain to display your pendant designs is a great way to add further value to your work, and it can be a fairly easy process. When I make my own chain, I like to…
These tweezers are great for gripping melee when straight tips don’t give you enough clearance. They allow you to slide melee down the channel without loosing your grip.
In the course of my 30 years in the jewelry industry, I can recall many instances of damaged equipment and potentially dangerous situations caused by how the handpiece is connected to the flexshaft. Here are a few observations that can make your equipment last longer and prevent possible injury.
The flexible shaft machine, commonly called a “flexshaft,” is a combination of a motor, handpiece and the flexible shaft that connects the two. The machine is usually operated by a foot pedal. Because jewelers often use more than one handpiece during the workday, the procedure of connecting a handpiece to the flexible shaft is a common operation, but is often done incorrectly.
Learn to harden and temper your own custom-shaped jewelry tools. By master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain. Filmed in full HD 1080p. IMPORTANT NOTE: Hardening and Tempering is a two step process, the steel MUST be tempered (softened) after hardening to be…
There are several ways to make a “box-setting” for enameled work pieces. This is one way on how to make a bezel. The piece you are setting should be finished, because every piece gets a bit larger during enameling. Don’t…
Every now and then when you are fabricating a piece or polishing a casting, a hole or hollow will pop up that needs to be filed and smoothed. You can usually get at it using a bur and abrasive tools in your flex-shaft. But when you just can’t reach the hole, an old-fashioned tool called a riffle file comes in handy. Featuring various bent and curved shapes, these files fit into odd internal surface profiles. They were used extensively in the past for working on carved and chased steel dies intended for stamping out jewelry and other metal shapes. Years ago you could find dozens of curves and shapes, but today the tools are difficult to come by, so your best bet is to make your own.
Although ultrasonic cleaners are great for removing gunk on jewelry, they do a poor job when it comes to removing tarnish…and that’s where ionic cleaners come into play. They use a small electrical current to clean metal, quickly whisking away any…
Yes you can make your own earring posts. It is generally more cost effective to buy them, but making them is not a problem and there are times that it is useful to know how.
In this project, I will demonstrate a clever method of making equally sized beads. These beads can be used for granulation or decoration, or they can be soldered inside rings to keep the rings from turning while worn.
Tom Dougherty of Studio 2015 in Woodstock, Illinois, had an interesting process to share about making hoop earrings from tubing. He learned the process from Kenneth Guth, a neighboring goldsmith and acclaimed knife maker. By all accounts, Guth has always enjoyed sharing his knowledge with other people, and he has taught workshops on jewelry, metal work, and knife making, both at the college level and to the general public. The process is incredibly simple, and I’m delighted to share it with you here.
Sawing is an essential skill for a bench jeweler. This article will show you a technique that will increase your sawing speed and accuracy when you need to make sharp corner cuts and reduce your likelihood of breaking delicate saw blades.
First, be sure to observe all sawing basics.
Stuller had the foresight to offer straight wire that we don’t have to remove the bend from before we use it for straight projects. I know we have many curved projects also but the wire is never the right curve,…
Many stone setters would agree that one of the most challenging aspects of prong setting is getting the prongs down tight on the stone. It’s easy to take this process for granted. If it’s done well, you might never notice. But doing it poorly can result in damaged or lost gemstones, or prongs that snag clothing and feel rough or sharp to the wearer.
One persistent daily challenge a bench jeweler faces is trying to figure out the best way to hold onto tiny, delicate objects while performing mechanical operations such as sawing, filing or burring bearings for stone setting.
There are dozens of tools available for this purpose, some centuries old and some that are modern, sophisticated and often quite expensive. An alternative is to make a simple modification to a wooden ring clamp which holds rings and other jewelry items that turns it into a useful, multi-function holder.
For the illusion of “floating objects” Helen I. Driggs shares her technique, a step by step guide, on how to mount objects in matel frames. ******************** Bi-directional tabs are a decorative way to secure delicate objects that have very pronounced…
Refusing a big order may sound like a business mistake, but sometimes saying no pays. Sales do not equal profit, It is incredibly easy to not make any money. Breaking a deal down into its crucial components, whether its the sales price or conditions on returns, can help create a clear picture of whether the deal is really in your best interests. Before accepting a job, evaluate it thoroughly by asking yourself the following questions.
I took in a broken hollow rope chain bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet had caught on a desk drawer and broke. I didn’t think it presented any special problems (outside of being hollow) until I looked further and…
This article offers instructions on how to resize platinum rings whether for a size smaller or bigger, as well as, repair bench tips and tricks. Rings are among the platinum items that jewelers most frequently receive for repair. To make…
Small, fine drill bits used for jewelry making will become dull with normal use. Worn cutting edges make tasks more difficult and time-consuming and can cause costly accidents, including damage to jewelry and gemstones or even injury. Maintaining the cutting surfaces on your tools will ensure clean, consistent work at the bench. This installment will teach you how to sharpen the cutting edges of a fine drill bit. There are different styles of bit tips, but this example features a chisel tip. Let’s begin with a look at its anatomy.
One requires a taper on the end of the wire to grip it with when placed through a drawplate for drawing. One may obtain this taper in several ways.
The soldering process, used extensively in all aspects of jewelry manufacturing and repair, joins two or more pieces of metal together and when done properly, will result in a virtually undetectable seam. A better understanding of the soldering process can help you decide how to approach a particular soldering project.
Always try to understand, that you are your own best enemy. Be nice to yourself when tackling the unknown. Realize that you are going to fail a lot before you are going to succeed. ALLOW TIME FOR THIS FAILING TO…
Goldsmiths began to use hydraulic presses in small shops in the 1940s in North America. Factories have used hydraulic presses for making blanking out parts and forming pieces for some time, and presses in the 150 to 200 ton range are not unusual in jewelry factories today. These need good machine guarding, maintenance and training for the operators. The smaller shop at the end of the 20th century tends to use slowly operated hydraulic presses in the 12 to 25 ton range for forming operations and some minor blanking, this last often carried out using R.T. or pancake cutting dies. It is the smaller presses I will discuss here…
Here’s something to aim for: a well laid-out, orderly workshop, well-lit by multiple non glare light sources, well-maintained equipment, electrically and fire safe, with low dust and few procedures involving solvents, with excellent local ventilation at the appropriate work.
Trying to get a really high polish on the inside of a ring can be frustrating. Because inside ring buffs have such a small diameter and the surface speed is quite low, it takes a long time to get much done. In addition, the heat from the extended use of the buff makes holding the ring painfully difficult.
This page provides an international ring sizes chart you can view and/or download to be your guide in making or even just to refer to customer’s ring sizes. Click to view a bigger image:
In the Jewelers Bench Book, the MJSA/Ganoksin project published in spring 2008, there is an extensive look at what happens in the working space, where you sit and move as a goldsmith. Two of the areas addressed including sitting and looking at objects.
I have an intimate relationship with my tool collection. Sometimes the needs of a particular jewelry project drive me to purchase a new tool, while other times I’m compelled to add a tool to my collection simply because of its…
When a commercial finding isn’t quite right but making the component by hand seems like reinventing the wheel, creative modification comes into play. That’s what designer Jayne Redman of Cumberland, Maine, encountered when searching for the perfect clasp for her Palm Neckwire.
Ventilation means removing noxious materials, dusts and fumes from where you can breathe them in. It is about taking away the chance for you to breathe in chemicals and particles that can damage your lungs. Ever seen people riding around with an oxygen tank next to them and tubes in their noses? That is only one of the kinds of trouble you can get into from breathing in toxic stuff. A good friend of mine died recently from pulmonary fibrosis, definitely due to his exposures to coal dust and chemical fumes in working his materials.
It is sometimes useful to have criticism of one’s work in order to develop it. While studying as an apprentice or an art school student if one is lucky one learns the most from such criticism, preferably put in a positive manner. However when one is on one’s own after this experience or has been self taught there is usually no honest criticism of one’s work available. One therefore most of the time has to rely on one’s own judgement. It is difficult however to objectively deal with one’s own work. This short paper will attempt to offer ways of developing an objective attitude to one’s work.
Repairing jewellery is an extremely tricky job. Work often pretends to be something else, metal is not what it is labelled, or sold as and the customer’s memory fades with time, so that jewellery is often given to the repair person as something different thas it’s real condition or materials. What follows is a list of questions…
A selected bibliography list for the jeweler – Metal working, Casting, Plating, Enamelling ,Gem Cutting, Setting, Engraving and Etching, Other Techniques, Jewelry Repairs and A Selected Bibliography for Materials Science for Goldsmiths – Over 100 listings.
Jeremy Pavlow shares his common jewelry making bench tips by taking advantage of other tools and materials not normally used for jewelry making. Here are some very useful tips he uses around the shop every day. Not Just For Oral Hygiene…
Check out this list of 19 jewelry making tips and tricks for preparation, cleaning, setting, how-to’s and more.
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about Alloys. See related topics: Useful…
My dad was in the Navy during World War II and was among the personnel who entered Japan shortly after the war was over. The Katana he obtained in Japan, which hung on the wall of my childhood home, now often decorates the wall of the custom jewelry design studio that I founded in Eugene, Oregon. It was because of this sword that I happened to.
Carat, karat, caret, and carrot are all pronounced the same, but each has a different meaning. Carat and karat, of course, have very specific meanings in jewelry. Misusing either word can be an embarrassing, if not an expensive, mistake. Spelling carats or karats as carets or carrots will make you look foolish and unprofessional.
Goldsmiths sometimes do a little rough and ready lapidary work with emery and leather sticks or even polishing compounds on a hard buff. Some goldsmiths, however, are lapidaries as well as jewelers. Lapidary work involves the grinding of gem materials on a series of grinding wheels and belt sanders, usually wet, with water cycling in the system. Polishing compounds and pastes are made of various chemicals and abrasives.
It’s an “everyday” kind of repair job. The customer brings in a bangle bracelet that has a broken safety slide. This time let’s try a different approach to repairing it. After a close inspection of the bracelet we have determined…
Click on the image to enlarge and download and you can use this layout form or template to help layout crowns. This form will help you lay out prongs when creating new crowns. Use the crossed lines on top when…
This article provides a helpful tip on locating dead center on ring blanks and finding balance on an object. Free-form wax carving offers jewelers an unlimited number of design possibilities. However, one noticeable disadvantage of this type of wax carving…
Myth: Magnesia blocks are superior soldering surfaces to charcoal blocks: A topic that seems to raise a fair amount of spirited discussion and strong opinions is what is the best soldering surface: firebrick, charcoal, magnesia, solderite – the list goes on. Charcoal is a very traditional choice, but it is seen as having limitations in terms of both longevity and safety. I was curious to see if any of the practices out there served to really mitigate these issues, and how charcoal compares to magnesia, another popular choice.
Handy trick to make a useful cardboard disc sander which master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain learned about at a factory in Germany. Disc can then be used on a polishing machine. Filmed in full HD 1080p.
Make your own high quality rotary burr from an inexpensive disposable lighter. By master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain. Filmed in full HD 1080p.
This is a metal frame for a brooch which can be made without any soldering. Findings can be glued or riveted to the back of the frame. You can enamel directly onto the frame or you can use it to…
BW Simon in Spartanburg, South Carolina, made this handy tool for finishing jewelry. I would like to thank him for allowing me to share this bench trick with you.
White, gummy Wonder Bread isn’t just for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. It’s a fun tool for making hollow forms in carving wax.
This article offers a few tips on making your own wooden raising stakes instead of buying rather expensive metal ones. Aside from that it is so easy to make. When the Touchstone School of the Arts opened in western Pennsylvania in…
Not all sizes and wall thicknesses of tube come seamless from a factory or refiner. Especially when working in gold it is not cost effective or timely to order in a specific tube size, material, or wall thickness. There are many times when you need a piece of tubing, you don’t have it, and you can’t wait a day or so to order it in or run across town and buy it. In general, it is possible to make the length of tubing you require.
When I was in grade school, I decided to enter a gardening contest for 4H. Though I had experience helping out on farms, I really didn’t know anything other than to do as I was told. After procrastinating the startup…
Crafted especially for Rio by a furniture artisan since 1970 this oak bench with solid maple top is the ideal foundation for the professional jeweler.
The metal conversion chart below will help you determine the amount of metal needed to create a piece of jewelry in a different metal. To use, weigh the piece of jewelry. Then find the present metal along the top of…
This article page is from a segment of the Metalsmith Magazine (1983 Fall), “Health Hazards”, discussing questions from readers and answers provided by Linda Weiss-Edwards herself. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dear Linda, I wanted to write to ask if you knew where I…
This article page is from a segment of the Metalsmith Magazine (1983 Summer), “Health Hazards”, discussing questions from readers and answers provided by Linda herself. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dear Linda, You are doing a great service by persevering the study of health…
Linda Weiss-Edwards provides a list of Onsite Consultation for Artists and Schools from each state in the United States in this segment of “Safety Hazards” from Metalsmith 1984 Fall. Every state has a free onsite consultation plan for employers who…
This article page is from a segment of the Metalsmith Magazine (1984 Spring), “Health Hazards”, discussing questions from readers about using sumac and the effects of gas ozone. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dear Linda, I frequently enhance my metal objects with wood. I am…
This article page is from a segment of the Metalsmith Magazine (1984 Summer), “Health Hazards”, discussing questions from readers about book on metalworking safety. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dear Linda, Can you recommend any additional good reference books to add to my studio library that would…
This article page is from a segment of the Metalsmith Magazine (1985 Summer), “Health Hazards”, discussing questions from readers and answers provided by Linda Weiss-Edwards herself. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dear Linda, In the fall issue of Metalsmith you mentioned Grifflux #1. Is…
Learn to be able to quickly identify what quality of steel a tool is made of and whether it’s low quality or worthwhile to use. By master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain. Filmed in full HD 1080p.
Extremely clean metal surfaces give better results. See the article on Cleaning metal Surfaces for more information on cleaning.
In high volume production operations, many jump rings need to be closed one after another. For such fast paced operations, pliers simply won’t do. Factory workers need efficient tools for closing jump rings. One such tool consists of a ring that has a slot head on it for gripping and steadying a jump ring (see photo). To make it, you will need a.
Jewelers need to bend tubing for various constructions, including neckpieces, earrings, catches, and cuff links. Normally, precious metal tubes are quite thin (between 0.3 and 0.5 mm) because of material cost. At these thicknesses, tubes are easy to kink or dent, thus ruining the bend and making tight bends problematic.
Meticulous planning and tedious layout are a big part of a goldsmiths life at the bench. It usually pays dividends to thoughtfully plan gemstone layout for graver setting. If youre off by just 0.1 mm in one direction or another, you can sometimes visually ruin the aesthetics of an expensive project that is near completion, and in so doing ruin your day. But once in a while the time to plan just doesnt exist. Bridezilla decides at the very last minute that she wants those accent stones after all–the ones that you planned for in your design but agreed to add later on the first anniversary. Or maybe you just forgot that project lurking at the corner of your bench. The client just left in a huff and if she cant pick it up after lunch, well…you can just forget it.
An Uncustomary Request – Creative freedom and some unusual pearls helped create an award-winning necklace by Brenda Smith. Let’s say you are given 27 of the largest freshwater, cultured, round pearls in the world, and told that you can make anything…
A bench jeweler typically uses a split mandrel to sand and finish the inside of a ring. Various grits of abrasive papers can be cut to size and inserted into the slit of the mandrel, where they are held by friction during the rotary filing process. With minor modification, you can use the split mandrel as a holding device to finish round bezels and other small jewelry components quickly and consistently..
Pre-finishing, finishing, polishing and re-finishing have all been tasks usually done with a flexible shaft at the bench and/or a motor away from the bench. This article features methods and procedures used for a variety of these projects – all done at the bench with bench top equipment and flexible shafts with newly developed accessories and innovative applications.
This is an exciting era for gemologists. High-tech analytical techniques now make it possible to identify trace elements, treatments, and origins of colored stones that could only be guessed at decades ago. For example, when the gem world was rocked last fall by mysterious, processed orange sapphires coming out of Chanthaburi, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) relied on two of these high-tech procedures – Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) and Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) – to discover what elements could be causing the surface color.
Noise is so common that we don’t tend to think of it in terms of exposure in the same way that we would, for example, with a chemical such as benzene. Yet the treatment of hearing damage is considered to be one of the growth industries as we.
This page offers a list of some useful North American Sources for Equipment, Materials, information, etc that would be very helpful for your reference. Bonny Doon Enterprises, 250 Tassett Court, Santa Cruz, CA, 95060, 1-800-995-9962: the best hydraulic press system around…
When one gets a new file one traditionally dips it in alcohol and sets fire to it to burn off any grease (this could be dangerous-use great care). Get the longest files you are comfortable with as the long stroke is very efficient. 20 cm or longer needle files from…
We use a method for cutting down firescale when using a Presto-Lite Torch along with an acetylene B tank. The torch tips are engineered to take in so much gas through the gas orifice and so much air through the air inlet ventura so they burn to their max.
There are numerous mass production processes that bench jewelers can adapt and use to streamline their studio jewelry work. One of the organizational approaches used in factories is keeping parts in velvet-lined trays and moving them from one tray to the next as they progress through the manufacturing process. Keeping parts separated by manufacturing step helps workers to understand the process, exercise repeated quality control at every stage, and feel a rewarding sense of accomplishment as pieces progress.
The next time you sit down at your bench, don’t think of it as just a bench. Think of it as the cockpit of a plane. That’s right, a plane. Sure, there are differences: Instead of dials, switches, and throttles, you have files, saws, and burnishers. But the same principle applies: Just like a pilot doesn’t want a crucial switch out of reach, you don’t want to have to move out of your way to get a tool. Your setup should be carefully designed to avoid problems and to make working easy and fast.
How you set up your shop, your working procedures and workspace can affect your safety, comfort, stress level and efficiency of making. If your shop is well planned you will be more efficient. The more efficient you are, the faster you work and the more creative time you will have available to you. It pays to spend some time on organization. The more you think about, and plan your workspace and what you do in it the easier life as a craftsperson will be for you.
Two surprising uses for a pencil as a tool in jewelry making. (1) Gain extreme control over the burr on your flex shaft by using a piece of the top of the pencil and (2) etch disc designs using the…
Accurately laying out an oval or marquis stone in wax can be tricky business. We learned this foolproof method for getting a perfect layout every time after years of difficulty.
From the Editor: It’s happened to everyone. You’re working on a project and everything is going along well until…. Oops. You melt something that wasn’t supposed to be melted, or chip something that’s hard to replace. After a few seconds…
True tales of how jewelers overcame out-of-the-box limitations – Most people who work with their hands become tool mad, and jewelers are no exception. They scoop up new tools, shop garage sales for used ones — and then often alter what they find, grinding, sanding, drilling, and shaping their new tools to suit a specific task or way of working.
If you’re just starting to work with palladium or interested in taking the leap, you should know a few critical details about its working characteristics. Palladium isn’t difficult to work with; it’s just different. Combining some gold habits with some platinum habits is the key to using this newly popular white metal at the bench.
Its no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use worldwide shot up by 54 percent, according to Johnson Mattheys Platinum 2006, and this past year has seen a proliferation of articles and seminars about the platinum group metal — specifically 950 palladium — as well as the formation of a new industry group, Palladium Alliance International. Yet with all of that interest has also come questions — about how best to work with the metal, how to market and sell it, and what to expect in the future: Is palladium really here to stay? To offer insights into those issues, MJSA invited several industry experts to share their thoughts on what manufacturers can expect when working with palladium.
In this article Chris Ploof shares tips for sizing, welding, and engraving palladium.
The holiday season can be rough on jewelers. The long hours spent toiling at the bench trying to fulfill last minute orders can take a toll on the body. To help get through this tough season, it’s important to make time…
Jewelers use so-called -oxidising- solutions to darken metals like silver, copper, brass, nickel silver, bronze and, with specialized mixtures, on gold. Metalsmiths patinate both large and small objects, as well as jewelry. We usually think of patinas as being green, but they come in many colors. There are also metal dyes which are very adhesive. Paints, epoxy resins and other materials are also used to darken recesses on work. Metal coloring solutions are often made up of chemicals in toxic concentrations, so all chemical-lab precautions need to be taken with them.
Here are some patination sources on the internet.
Remember that all patinas are toxic and irritant and should not be worn next to skin unprotected.
Our castings can be flawless, our assembly precise, and our settings secure — but let any surface go a bit rough, a little uneven and wobbly, and the jewelry is judged to be inferior. Ironically, even the ultimate finish begins to deteriorate as soon as a piece of jewelry leaves the showroom. But to attract a willing buyer at a fair price, a piece needs be in top form when it enters the showroom. The tools, tips, and techniques presented in this article can help manufacturers avoid the harsh criticism that can result when a less-than-perfect finish clouds the public view.
Joints that fit well make soldering a snap. The next time you need to solder or fuse a bezel, try using a separating disc, which has even abrasive sides, to slice through the bezel stock first. This quick procedure minimizes gaps and ensures a perfect connection.
In photoetching a photo transparency defines the area of a metal plate to be etched. The transparency is the control unit, the program, that prescribes which parts of the light-sensitive resist will chemically harden, polymerize, to become impervious to attack…
The following article explains photo techniques used to transfer images onto refractory metals. These findings were developed during my graduate studies at California State University, Long Beach, California. Traditionally photo resists have been used as a masking agent in the…
Jewelers treat soldered objects with dilute acid solutions to remove oxides produced from heating and soldering as well as glassy flux residues. This process is called pickling. I believe the term comes from the chemical jewelers once used to do the job: Alum, such as is used traditionally for making pickles. Many jewelers today are not aware that they can use alum for this purpose. Here is what I think happened.
This project is dedicated to bench tricks that make working with platinum-or working at the bench in general-easier. This is the first installment of a periodic Platinum Bench series.
Jurgen J Maerz of the Platinum Guild International USA outlines factors to consider when adding platinum to your line of manufactured jewelry. Technical education is the key successfully manufacturing platinum jewelry. Platinum is often regarded as a difficult metal to…
There is a major difference between durability and scratch resistance. Platinum is very durable. When scratched, the scratch actually displaces the metal, leaving ridges on the edges of the scratch. This is where durability comes in. Whereas other precious metals, if scratched, lose metal, and thus wear down, Platinum does so at a much slower rate.
This paper is aimed mainly at the small- to medium-sized jewelry manufacturing operations interested in working with platinum group metals. Preparing the melt, the melting process, forging, rolling and finally some manufacturing techniques for alloyed platinum will be discussed..
My finishing techniques are up close and personal. The majority of my polishing work is done at the same proximity to the work piece as fabrication or stone setting. For me, the majority of my finishing is a bench technique….
Opinions differ considerably when discussing the ease or difficulty of polishing platinum, but most agree that when a piece is well polished it tends to stay that way. Herein I will be covering the main points regarding platinum finishing, and I may possibly be able to offer some obscure shortcuts..
Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewelry production. Therefore it is useful to know, what kinds of different joining techniques are possible. This paper will give you a rough overlook on joining techniques as well as some tips and tricks to do a good joint between platinum and platinum, and between platinum and gold. Which technique to prefer depends on the worker skill and on the available equipment.
When it comes to fine jewelry making polishing is a very important step – it can be the difference between an okay piece and a high-end piece. Personally, I like to polish every single corner of a piece, no matter how small…
In every aspect of my daily life I am, and have been for quite some time, concerned with promoting and maintaining my health. This concern naturally carries over into my working environment. The following article lists potentially harmful substances encountered by the metalsmith – Dictionary of Substances.
Once more the realm of engineers and number-crunchers, CAD over the years has become more user-friendly and artisan-intuitive. Similarly, small-shop, multi-axis CAM systems allow more jewelers to experience the technologys potential and create innovative, award-winning contemporary designs. However jewelers prefer to design and whatever their visions, CAD/CAM can make it easier, faster, and more efficient. While these technologies can speed the journey from concept to completion, jewelers must always keep that core knowledge at hand, and keep an eye on creating designs that are practical for manufacturing. Its one thing to create; its another thing entirely to create for successful production.
To begin with I highly recommend this book of technical information and procedures for anyone wanting to learn wax modelling techniques (as always given patience and practice in carrying out the exercises). There is very little available in English on jewellery oriented professional wax working and this text contributes to the field. A good half of the currently available books are by Japanese authors (Wada for instance). This is interesting when one considers that Japan did not have a tradition of precious metals jewellery using gems until after the Americans (and later DeBeers) introduced the concepts after World War II.
I came up with this system to solve some production and prioritizing problems at a small custom jewelry store. We used this system mainly for custom jobs, however it can be adapted for repair or stock production as well.
I’m going to do something different in this issue. Instead of taking you through the steps involved in putting a new piece of jewelry on the market, I’m going to share some bench tips that I’ve been taught, or developed,…
Do not get caught in the dark – make certain your shop is well lit. In the jewelry shop, two types of lighting are used. 1. Ambient or General Lighting. 2. Task Lighting. It is best to have a combination of the two in your shop. It is best to have a combination of the two in your shop..
Fine jewelry represents much more than its trade value in diamonds, gemstones and precious metals. It is a personal representation of the owner’s lifestyle, status, emotion, recognition, commitment and more. That significance only amplifies how devastating the loss of a gemstone is for the owner. Even one missing accent stone renders the jewelry unwearable. Loss of a significant gemstone will also impact the retailer who sold the piece and the manufacturer who engineered and produced it.
The loosening, damage or loss of gemstones in jewelry can be attributed to two factors: poor workmanship or the absence of benchmarking standards for setting. Benchmarks are specific parameters used to compare and evaluate the acceptability of a finished product for market.
Stone loss can be avoided. Inspecting each piece and comparing it against established benchmarks for signs of vulnerability in normal wear gives the jeweler/manufacturer an opportunity to address potential problems before jewelry is offered for sale. Adopting consistent task-specific benchmarks encourages sound design and good workmanship, assuring the quality of jewelry for the consumer.
how one of 3M’s radial bristle discs to a non-jeweler friend, and you are almost guaranteed to get a lukewarm response: ‘This is what you’re so excited about?’ But to the jewelers who have eagerly adopted them, these simple circular brushes are ‘the greatest thing since flexi-straws…
Platinum is a very durable metal, so prongs will last a long time. However, it is sometimes necessary to re-tip prongs even on a Platinum ring. By definition, re-tipping platinum prongs imply that the stone remains in the setting during…
This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” where Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1990 Spring issue, he talks about handwork or handmade objects as opposed to machine made ones… ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here’s…
This article series from Metalsmith Magazine is named “Recent Sightings” and here Bruce Metcalf talks about art, craftmanship, design, the artists, and techniques. For this 1989 Fall issue, he talks about jewelry teachers and their processes.. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Teachers don’t instruct enough about…
Beading tools and dot punches lose their form and become dull as you use them. You can recondition a tool at least ten or twelve times, or you may need a special size, or perfect polish for a particular job. They can be reconditioned fairly easily. The best tool that I have found to do this is the 40 hole.
This is the second in a series of articles on the art and skill of rendering jewelry and small metal objects. Here we show the stages of rendering from pencil roughs to finished pencil renderings with color to full-color renderings,…
The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires heat up quickly when trying to melt the solder. Two problems develop. The first is if the wire link gets too hot, it will quickly melt as you are trying to solder.
This page provides some helpful tips when it comes to resizing damaged rings with stones. Read on for more. When sizing rings with stones that may be damaged from heat, hold the stones under water while soldering. To do this, place a…
Traditionally trained jewelers often scoff at the idea of using glue as a joining method. However, there are times when a tiny drop of glue is exactly what you need to get the job done. Common examples are mounting a…
Ask a seasoned bench jeweler how many rings he or she has sized and they’ll probably give you a figure in the quadruple digits. The following is a compilation of tips and tricks to help you perform this mundane task better and faster.
Jewelers love Rio workbenches for their sturdy durability and craftsmanship in every detail
My grandson has spent the last several weeks learning how to walk. This new risk comes with a lot of bumps and bruises. He has bumped his chin, bitten his lip, banged the side of his head, and fallen repeatedly…
Roll printing, or texture transfer, has been around a long time. The ancient Greeks and Romans used various dies and, of course, every well-appointed Sumerian had a cylinder seal with which to authenticate his signature. Both of these employ the…
A sign on the side of a plumbers truck read, In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House. Thankfully this is not the type of flush this article is about. Instead, this article is about a style of setting small stones that has become very popular in recent years.
While it is clearly impossible to give a set of rules for each tool and procedure that goldsmiths use, this section gives some examples of the kinds of rules that may be helpful to review when using powered equipment. hand tools and processes have been left out, primarily because their dangers tend to be of the “don’t put your hands in the way of things that might snap or slip” kind. Many specific hints associated with hand tools can be found in the procedures section.
Procrastination can sometimes lead to wonderful discoveries. Tom Arnold, owner of Facets Fine Jewelry in Arlington, Virginia, found this out first hand, when his avoidance of a particularly nasty sizing job led him to whittle away some time on a…
After writing my recent safety book something unexpected happened. I had a number of calls from lawyers about safety issues. These guys were suing jewelry store owners in different places in the US. The litigation was on behalf of the store’s goldsmiths, when working conditions, storage of chemicals and so on had injured them.
An ancient system of working metals, this procedure uses steel punches to manipulate the metal while it is fixed onto a pitch or tar-like material. There are traditional pine-resin pitches and modern petroleum-based ones. The petroleum-based pitches are considered potential dermatitis-causing materials, as well as some evidence of their being carcinogenic. At this point most jewelers pitches available through the main suppliers are petroleum-based, and thus, in my opinion, suspect. Besides, they do not work nearly as nicely as the pine pitches.
Securing curved stones when drilling can be a bit difficult. I use recycled ceramic china, beach pebbles, sea and river glass, and pottery shards in many of my cold connected pieces, which means I need to drill holes— a lot…
This article provides and describes the useful tips for selecting the correct saw blade by Alan Revere including some important things to consider for blade selection. Sawing is a fast and easy way to cut and separate a piece of metal…
Often craftspeople start out making craft objects in their living space, a kitchen, a living room, and sometimes continue working in them even when they have grown to the point that they need a separate studio. It is not wise to share one’s living and family space with workshop space. Usually there are chemicals, tools, equipment, processes, sounds, materials, wastes, dusts and so on that are unhealthy to be exposed to that are produced in a work shop.
One of the most revolutionary advances in recent years, apart from laser welding, is the method of setting stones in wax. It has allowed many previously impossible designs andalso allowed the jeweler to forge ahead and create many difficult setting…
A drill press (either a full size, miniature, or Foredom) with an end mill or cylinder bur can thin down wax slabs quickly and accurately. Position the bottom of the cylinder bur or end mill slightly higher than the desired thickness of the finished wax.
The best ‘Sneaky Goldsmith Tricks’ involve taking mundane, everyday items and repurposing them as goldsmith’s tools. Two classic tricks that are valuable to detail-finish hard-to-reach spots involve a wooden toothpick and cotton packaging twine. An ordinary round toothpick becomes a precision polishing instrument in the hands of a bench-savvy goldsmith.
Jewelers spend hours fixing damage that they themselves did to the metal. Soft hammers and shaping tools limit the injuries to the metal being worked, with the best quality of all (the least damage to metal while still shaping it) being paper mallets. Leather however remains tried and true as material for making mallets from.
Medical hemostats and forceps make good clips for wire solder. Soldering clips for soldering work may be made from cotter pins, coat hanger wire, piano wire, steel strapping or old clock springs. These may be used to hold parts together.
n this installment we present a mold cutting technique called a spiral cut, which is designed to facilitate the successful release of a cage-like wax model from a mold.
Single-row pavé, which consists of a single row of small diamonds set into a narrow strip of metal, is a beautiful use of melee and one of the most popular setting styles today. While more difficult than prong or bezel…
When I ran a trade shop, time was money, and I often found myself sizing 50 to 60 rings in a day. When you’re doing that kind of volume, being able to quickly size up rings can make a big…
Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on gemstones. When securing stones, please use a soft metal pusher. I suggest a copper or brass pusher. This will prevent…
Being more organized, and planning how you use your time will mean that you will spend less time on some jobs and you will therefore have this time available. I tell my students that they need to plan their time and work fast, smoothly and efficiently not for its own sake, but to have more creative time available. This greater efficiency also translates into more income from your working day.
How you light your shop, illuminate your working area, experience the reflection from surfaces and the paint you choose for the walls all have an effect on your ability to work in your studio. Poor lighting can strain the eyes, contribute to accidents and make working uncomfortable..
This all-wood constructed workbench has a solid Surell surface which is heat-resistant and easy to maintain. Light sanding will remove burns stains or minor scratches. It is fully-skirted and its quality hardwood construction will withstand the rigors of daily use….
This article lists the basic tools someone learning stonesetting might want to have around. One would of course add to this list..
Ask most jewelers about repairing a chain or finding and they’re likely to offer you their best Charlie Brown impression: Good grief! And it’s an expression that’s somewhat warranted, given the risks involved in working on the tiny links of a…
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and ancient arts. It will also answer questions from readers and respond to suggestions, always trying to explain in simple terms the…
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and ancient arts. It will also answer questions from readers and respond to suggestions, always trying to explain in simple terms the…
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and ancient arts. It will also answer questions from readers and respond to suggestions, always trying to explain in simple terms the…
Technical Briefs deals with technical concerns of interest to a wide audience, addressing topics as diverse as vanguard technology and ancient arts. It will also answer questions from readers and respond to suggestions, always trying to explain in simple terms the…
Fabrics and precious metals would seem to be total opposites, like hot and cold or yin and yang. However, despite their obvious differences in hardness, they do possess similar properties-specifically, both are pliable and elastic, and can be stretched and manipulated. And just as fabrics and fibers can be suitable for knitting, crocheting, weaving, or other textile applications, so too can metal sheet and wire be suitable for-well, knitting, crocheting, and weaving. This crossover adaptability is especially evident with metals in the creation of jewelry and adornments. In their jewelry with metals, goldsmiths and silversmiths often apply techniques from weaving, sewing, and basketry, using sheet and wire in place of fabric and fiber to create intricate pieces that are lightweight and flexible. These methods provide an aesthetically rich yet simple way for a jewelry maker to engage with the material.
I was recently in Chiang Mai, a city in northern Thailand, where I spent a month visiting silversmiths and chasers to document their work. The city is teeming with chasers, and there are whole temples covered in metalwork. The chasers…
Transforming a single sheet of metal into an undulating organic form using only a hammer and stake is the art of anticlastic raising. When the hammer hits the piece of sheet metal resting on the stake, the metal rises into curves or coils, its edges stretching more than its center. It’s a technique that requires skills far more complex than the tools used — skills that Michael Good of Michael Good Designs in Rockport, Maine, has perfected since the late 1970s. With today’s high metal prices, one of the greatest benefits of anticlastic raising is the ability to create structural strength in relatively thin metal sheets. The resulting shapes are very flexible and springy, making findings an unnecessary addition. A necklace, for example, has such flex that it’s simply pulled open, slipped on, and closed.
The art of self-promotion is less about celebrity than it is about perseverance. Breaking into print doesn’t take a magic touch or fabulous connections in the publishing world. It does take attractive work, some basic materials such as photos and press releases, a dollop of good luck, and a willingness to keep trying until that luck turns up.
When you’ve made the decision to learn hand engraving, you have basically 3 options: Spend little or no money but lots and lots of time. You can get by spending very little on one book (Meeks) and the most basic hand tools. Hammer ‘ chisel or hand pushed burins were all that was available for the past couple of hundred years, and some astonishing work was done with them and is still being done by that method..
The teacher of vocational courses in art should be thoroughly trained in his craft and, if possible, should be a practicing artist. One might hope, of course, that he might also be a person of well-rounded education. To hold this…
Bur Goodtip, a legendary bench jeweler shows how sometimes a tool is not just a tool… We are taking a break on the back porch of his home and studio. I have spent the last five days up here with Bur, one of the great-but-largely-unknown repositories of bench jeweler arcana, and in that time I have found that Bur takes upward of a dozen breaks during his six-hour daily work routine.
This essay originated as a presentation at the Society of North American Goldsmiths’ conference in Flagstaff, Arizona in 1986. It has been revised and edited for publication in Metalsmith. Metcalf’s theme concerning the value of ideas as part of the…
Every caster has seen his or her fair share of investment inclusions. You’ll be polishing a casting when suddenly a whole will pop up with a bit of investment inside. You then have to dig out the investment and fill in the hole with wire, using a laser welder. It’s time consuming — not to mention an inferior product.
We asked a number of top jewelers to tell us their best practices, techniques, and tips for creating satin, brushed, and hammered finishes as well as patinas on jewelry. Take notes – you’ll want to test these popular finishing touches…
Scoring metal is incredibly important for custom jewelry construction. It enables you to reduce the number of parts in a catch or a hollow piece, which increases strength and cuts fabrication time. The term “scoring” refers to creating a groove…
Now What? You’ve carved a few waxes or made a piece in metal that you want to mold and have cast. Now what do you do? If you’re new to the business or this is just your first time working…
Jewelers use jump rings extensively as chain components, connectors, and linking devices for multiple construction problems. Here are a few tips and methods for creating jump rings.
A good vise is a vital piece of equipment for any goldsmith because it can act as a third hand, securely holding onto a piece while the goldsmith uses both free hands to work on it. Given their usefulness, it’s…
Most jewelers know how to handle their precious metal scraps: they separate their scraps by metal, dry out ultrasonic solutions so they just ship the metal-infused sludge, and they keep their bench sweeps separate. But what about the precious metal…
When taking in a piece of pearl jewelry for repair, it may be necessary to remove the pearl to avoid damaging it. Since most pearls are held in place with glue, you can remove them by gently warming the jewelry piece. You want the part near the pearl to get warm and soften the glue. Most glues will soften with heat, allowing you to pull the pearl off the peg easily.
Soldering is probably the most commonly used and least understood operation performed in the jewelry industry. Most jewelers know how to solder a joint closed, as well as join parts together, but if asked what is happening in the process, few are able to provide a good explanation. This is the difference between knowing ‘how’ and knowing ‘what.’ Knowing ‘how’ enables you to perform the operation. Knowing ‘what’ allows you to solve problems when things don’t work the way they’re supposed to work.
In today’s internet driven market place you need to have a website whether you are a small “Mom & Pop” trade shop or you have employees and multiple locations. Many jewelry stores have already joined the 21st century and have…
A note on slide developing: you want your slides to be developed for the best quality possi¬ble. If you want to impress your local photo shop, you go in and you ask “do you do dip and dunk E-6 photo processing?” Dip and dunk means that it’s not touched by human hands or rollers or anything, and it’s supposed to be a much better quality of developing.
This article describes the different tool alterations that any bench man needs to know and learn as guidance for their work and workmanship. These are simple chain nose pliers that are trimmed like in picture then the tip bent. After…
Maybe you’re shopping for the latest technologies—the newest developments in CAD/CAM to produce life-like renderings, a laser to engrave your rings, or a casting machine engineered to maximize fills. Or maybe you want to upgrade your old work-horse flex-shaft system,…
There are a few scientific methods for precisely determining karat gold purity, some destructive (fire assay) and others nondestructive (X-ray florescence). Both methods require costly equipment, special procedures and a well-lit and ventilated area. A simpler method for determining gold purity in jewelry is the touchstone testing process, an age-old technique that is relatively nondestructive to jewelry and offers quick results.
At most trade shows, you could stock up on enough pens, notepads, tote bags, and keychains to start a thriving second business as a flea-market dealer. The problem with such giveaways isn’t that they aren’t useful; it’s that there are so many such items handed out that they make only a minimal impression, at best.
Soldering is a quick and easy method for joining metals. But sometimes two metals require a connection for which soldering is not an option. Rivets or cold connections are the perfect answer and can add a striking detail to your construction. Traditionally, a riveting hammer is used to form the rivets.While it’s a tool many of us have in our shop, it is rarely used for its intended purpose because its profile often makes it difficult to see the rivet you’re making. Also, the tool’s riveting face is too close to the metal when struck and can easily mar the surface. However, you can easily fabricate your own riveting tools with supplies you may already have on hand: a twisted wire nail (for creating the rivet) and a square slate roof nail (for planishing the rivet).
Line art, such as logos, family crests, text or numbers, cartoon characters, and even sketches can be quickly and easily translated into 3D models in Matrix for use in a variety of jewelry designs. Depending on the skill of the…
This article, “Transparency Making for Photoetching”, is the first of two parts written by Allan Liu and Carol Webb. Check out the second part of this article series “Photoetching for the Studio Jeweler.” Photoetching is a radical departure from the traditional…
Make the inner band the desired size first. 18 or 20 gauge is about right. Next make the bezel or inlay unit if it is an integral part of the design. Cut a paper template of the desired ring shape from stiff paper that fits over the inner band. The top part of the ring pattern should be slightly smaller than the bezel as it will stretch in the forming stages. Use small pieces of tape to hold the paper pattern together.
Tweezers are a constant in a jeweler’s life, particularly in these safety conscious times. Tweezer use can help reduce your contact with nasty dermatitis causing chemicals. For example, when used for handling objects in solutions such as pickle, soap, and cleansers, tweezers limit potential damage to your skin.
Helen I. Driggs demonstrates how some non-jeweler’s tools give fabrication a new twist. My background is in graphic design, so I have spent lots of time in traditional artist’s supply stores. I have discovered quite a few tools that do…
This segment from the 2017 MJSA Journal November issue is dedicated to metals, tools, software and more that aids jewelers and designers in their quest to create their masterpieces. In this article we talk about Bench Tools. See related topics:…
Bench jewelers hate to throw out used tools. By training and by nature we try to conserve the materials we use. An unfortunate side effect is that old burs and dull files tend to collect on our benches. All is not lost, however. There is life in those tools yet. A Sneaky Goldsmith Trick with chemicals in your workshop can get them sharp and useful again..
Many tools sold in model/hobby stores can be used for jewelry making. During a recent visit to a hobby shop, I found these tube bending coils, which model makers use to build models that require bent tubing. Jewelry makers will find these coils handy when bending tubing for projects.
Jewelers are always molding objects and parts, most often to use for making wax models for casting. There are many vulcanized rubber and silicone mold materials intended for this purpose in the jewelry industry, but what if you need to…
Several shapes of stones have pointed ends, including marquise, pear, heart, and princess. Because these points are often thin and fragile, it is important to protect them with a prong. This is particularly important on rings where the stone may be subject to more abuse than in pendants, earrings, or brooches. Although a standard prong will usually suffice, a V shaped prong is preferable. A V-prong provides additional protection and will more securely hold the point of the stone.
Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to both the gem and the setting. A regular inspection of jewelry can catch this problem in its early stages, before too much damage is done. Vector tightening prong-set stones is a quick, safe and effective way to secure gemstones.
In the Spring 2003 Issue we asked the question “What causes these marks on this casting?” Around 100 readers responded to the question. Everyone that responded said the same thing; Water Marks. Investment needs to be finished and set aside…
Before you submit any jewelry item to a lab to test for heavy metals, you’re going to need to do a little homework. Current state and federal laws regulating lead and cadmium levels in jewelry have mounted hurdles that jewelry makers must clear — and some of those laws pertain to both adults’ and children’s products. It’s important to understand the regulations and your customers’ requirements. If you find that you do need to submit your products for testing, there are a few things you can do to ensure that the testing process goes as smoothly as possible. The more informed you are when entering into a relationship with a lab, the better you can expect your results to be. The following is a collection of general guidelines for jewelry makers to follow when working with a testing service.
Many craftspeople have posture and body position problems. Ramazzini, the founder of occupational medicine and author of a groundbreaking book on diseases of workers published in 1713 writes rather cruelly (and the man was a great humanitarian in his time) about the effects of working posture and position in regard to cobblers and tailors.
Both natural and cultured pearls are formed when an irritant lodges in a mollusk. The mollusk then deposits layers of nacre, covering the irritant and producing a pearl. In a natural pearl, the irritant may be organic or inorganic matter. In cultured pearls, the irritant is a mother of pearl bead or a piece of tissue placed in the mollusk by a technician. The mollusk covers the nucleus with alternating layers of conchiolin (a protein-like substance similar to human nails) and nacre. The latter consists of very fine crystals of calcium and aragonite, which are very soft minerals. It is delicate and can be scratched or chipped easily.
The primary issue with topaz that must be remembered at the bench is its one perfect cleavage direction. Hammering or putting pressure on a topaz runs the risk of cleaving the stone into pieces. Routine stone tightening on a prong set topaz can result in cleaving the stone. Setting a topaz in prongs presents a greater risk than tightening. To minimize the risk, avoid alloys that are very hard, as well as overly thick prongs. Cut stone seats with care and smooth away any burrs left by tools.
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