The Ganoksin Project -  Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques - Since 1996


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(62) [Ganoksin] Some jewelry soldering hints and tricks
Soldering weights are good tools to have. Several in different weights are really useful to have around and very fast to use. They hold items down during soldering and can have notched, drilled or grooved holding ends. Traditionally they are made with rectangular blocks of solid steel to which a hold down rod has been attached. These can however be hard to find....

(39) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Reticulation - Ridges and Ripples
Reticulation is not difficult, but it does take practice, concentration, and a deft torch hand. Also, the pattern and appearance of a reticulated piece is not predictable; you probably won't get the same results twice....

(36) [Ganoksin] Road Testing Argentium Sterling
Invented in 1996 by Peter Johns, a professor of silversmithing at England's Middlesex University, Argentium[R] Sterling Silver, like traditional sterling silver, is at least 92.5 percent pure silver. But unlike traditional sterling, which is 7.5 percent copper, Argentium sterling has a small amount of germanium instead of some of the copper. So how does that change things?....

(34) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Some thoughts on Fire scale
Fire scale or fire stain is a reddish purple toned 'bloom' or 'stain' that appears on silver/copper alloys such as sterling silver when they are heated in the presence of oxygen. It even occurs in gold alloys with high copper contents. As it generally appears in the form of blotchy patches following abrasive polishing it is seen as a blemish which destroys the clear reflectivity of finished silver surfaces. It is usually observed best when the silver object is placed on a piece of white paper as then it shows up well. Sometimes it is chosen as a surface finish in order to emphasize texture as when a silversmith like Lois Betteridge uses fire scale to accentuate the visual depth of the hammer marks on a surface by polishing off the tops of the resulting texture leaving them a lighter grey than the reddish tones of the fire scale in the recesses....

(29) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Metals Safety Information
Metals Safety Information, Goldsmiths work with metals. Our bodies react to metals, their dusts, salts and oxides. The metals that jewelers come in contact with include gold, copper, silver, zinc, iron, steel, platinum, palladium, rhodium, iridium, titanium, niobium, aluminum and ones that we should consider not having around any more at all in the workshop: nickel, lead, mercury, chromium, selenium, cadmium, arsenic, antimony, manganese and beryllium. Alloys contain more than one metal, brass for instance, contains up to 35% zinc, the rest is copper.

(25) [Ganoksin] Metals Under Fire - Enameling success depends on the metal underneath
In this article, I will discuss the basics of metal preparation for the enameling process. Some experienced enamelists may disagree with part of this. But remember, these are general rules from a metallurgist's point of view, not an enamelist's. The article is not intended to outline or recommend any particular preparation or enameling technique, but rather explain why we do certain things to precious metals during the process of enameling.....

(23) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - A Low-Cost Press Forming Technique
I first saw this technique in a work-shop held at West Dean College, Cich-ester, Great Britain, presented by Louise O'Neill and Bonnie Macintosh. I was immediately filled with enthusiasm by this technology, but the high cost for the press disturbed me. I only occasionally do such work. When back at home I began to experiment with less expensive tools and came up with a 'low cost' press forming technique....

(20) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Bench Guide
The palladium bench guide reviews the working characteristics of palladium for the jewelry bench staff and provides an overview of the unique advantages and benefits of palladium jewelry for managers, sales professionals and consumers. It is intended to serve as a source for information on the most commonly encountered palladium jewelry scenarios and the related materials available in the industry today....

(19) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - - Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing - Granulation
The revival of granulation in our century has been accompanied by many wrong ideas and misunderstandings, many stemming from the incorrect notion that the secrets of a mysterious process were long lost. To better understand granulation, we should therefore start by examining the myths and laying them to rest....

(18) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - A jewelry workshop safety report: Safety and Substitutes
This text is that of a paper given to the Society of North American Goldsmiths Conference in Seattle on March 28, 1998,. The citations are incomplete and will be properly outlined in the book that is being written on this subject. Brain Press is the publisher.

(17) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Carat Gold Solders
In many countries, regulations govern the caratage of gold solders used to make jewellery and, with few exceptions, gold solder alloys should be of the same caratage as the jewellery. One problem with the production of solders is to ensure a good colour match with the jewellery being assembled....

(17) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Why Soldering will never be as easy as brewing a pot of coffee
Soldering is probably the most commonly used and least understood operation performed in the jewelry industry. Most jewelers know how to solder a joint closed, as well as join parts together, but if asked what is happening in the process, few are able to provide a good explanation. This is the difference between knowing 'how' and knowing 'what.' Knowing 'how' enables you to perform the operation. Knowing 'what' allows you to solve problems when things don't work the way they're supposed to work....

(17) [Ganoksin] The Architectural Portraits of Vicki Ambery-Smith
For nearly 30 years, Ambery-Smith has been using architecture as an inspiration for her work. Her name has become synonymous with finely wrought precious metal jewelry, boxes, and condiment sets whose inspiration lies in Renaissance, Palladian, and classical architectural precedents: a pendant based on the fifteenth-century Florentine architect Brunelleschi's lantern, for example, or the Temple of Jupiter brooch, an exercise in pure classicism. Her work is represented in galleries, museums, and private collections in Europe, the United States, and around the world....

(16) [Ganoksin] Modern Lockets
Before photography, lockets were decorated with miniature, handpainted portraits -- a luxury few could afford. The advent of affordable photographic miniatures propelled the locket to the forefront of jewelry fashion during the sentimental Victorian era. Between 1890 and 1920, ornately crafted lockets were suspended from bracelets, necklaces, brooches, belts, and chatelaines. Ladies of fashion were not seen without one, and men wore them on their watch chains. During World War I, many soldiers wore lockets into battle as a reminder of loved ones at home. Lockets have since fallen out of fashion, and distinctive lockets are hard to find. With this project, you no longer have to rely on a fashion trend to have a high-quality locket -- you can create your own. You will learn how to make the traditional hinged locket and an easier slide locket....

(16) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Enameling On Fine Silver Metal Clay
Enameling on pieces made from Precious Metal Clay is a joy! The clay is malleable and will take any shape or texture: it handles like ordinary clay before it is sintered. After the sintering, the material is usable in a variety of enameling techniques. Sintering, an evaporation process, is done by firing the formed clay in a kiln at a high temperature that removes the binder and water and compresses the minute metal particles into solid metal. After sintering, the object is pure silver or gold and is enameled as such.....

(16) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - In a New Light - Faster, more efficient laser welders
Since their introduction to the jewelry industry, laser welders have been lauded for their speed, accuracy, and convenience of use. Retail stores and job shops have made sizable investments in these machines, which are guaranteed to simplify day-to-day repairs such as fixing damage next to stones and cleaning up porosity in castings. But it has only been in the last few years that the technology has started to turn up in higher volume production settings. Now, however, as laser welders become faster, more user-friendly, and suitable for a wider range of jewelry applications, they are finding new homes as standard equipment on the manufacturing shop floor....

(16) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium Basics: Selling Tips and Basic Servicing Procedures for 950 Palladium Jewelry
Designers and manufacturers have embraced 950 palladium alloys for a variety of jewelry manufacturing products. At the recent JA Jewelry Show in New York, most prominent among the new 950 palladium products were bridal lines featuring a wide selection of engagement rings and wedding bands. Even though palladium is a platinum group metal, consumers are largely unfamiliar with the metal. Here are some selling points that will help introduce this lustrous white, bright and light metal during sales presentations....

(15) [Ganoksin]Tube box clasp with double tongue
This project is a slight variation on the standard box clasp, the clasp outlined here uses two tongues rather than one. This means that the clasp is much more secure, so there's no need for the 'figure of 8' safety mechanism which can sometimes spoil the clean lines of a piece. I learnt to make this clasp whilst at North Bennet Street School in Boston....

(15) [Ganoksin] Step By Step: Basic Braiding
This five-strand spiral braid is made using one of the many textile techniques that Professor Arline Fisch demonstrated at the 'Textile Techniques in Metals' workshop at the Bead&Button Show in June 2006. The simplicity of this technique offers quick and beautiful results even for a beginner metalsmith. To make the braid wearable, you will learn how to fabricate end caps and how to forge an S-hook clasp....

(15) [Ganoksin] Protecting Gems While Soldering
Repair jewelers are frequently called upon to solder close in to a set gemstone. Besides the normal dangers of heating a gem in these days of glass infills and other challenges it behooves a jeweler to keep a gemstone cool during soldering if at all possible. Remember Some 'Old-time' repair goldsmiths pride themselves on their speed using a mini-torch and they hold the set gem on a ring being sized in their fingers, going in very rapidly on the shank solder join with a pinpoint flame, so fast and hot that 'if your fingers get hot you were too slow'. While this method works with the right mini-torch and has a certain macho charm it does not fit every circumstance - and may lead to singed fingers.....

(15) [Ganoksin] The Jewelry of Vivienne Jones - Earth Meets Mind
'I make jewelry the way I draw,' says Vivienne Jones. 'That's one of the great thins about metal, you can do that.' That Jones cites drawing, a very direct and personal mode of expression, as the closest parallel to her jewelry, seems fitting. Her reputation as one of Canada 's preeminent artist-jewelers stems from a body of work that is likewise spontaneous, intimate in scale, and highly expressive.....

(14) [Ganoksin] Raku Enameling
Raku enameling is an exciting process. It is smelly and dirty, and one is much more kinesthetically involved than when sitting at the cloisonne table. The outcome of the process is, in the first few attempts, whimsical to say the least. After the enamelist has done a few pieces, however, the delight in the unpredictable results can easily turn into frustration at the lack of control one has over the materials. The question becomes how to push the raku process from being a 'let's throw this in the raku pot and see what happens' event into an intentional use of materials and what we know in order to produce cohesive work with some life and integrity - works of art which will convey visually a message or feeling....

(14) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - States of Being: The Jewelry of Reiko Ishiyama - Metalsmith
The delicious paradox of quantum physics is that matter exists simultaneously as particle and as wave. Much of Reiko Ishiyama's recent jewelry shares that strange condition, appearing concurrently as both object and gesture, point and vector....

(14) [Ganoksin] Firescale Prevention During Vacuum Casting - An Inexpensive Method
Firescale has been the scourge of sterling silver casters since the first silver was poured into a mold. It has been a thorn in the side of silver fabricators. Fortunately there are ways to prevent fire scale while silver soldering. This paper describes a simple, inexpensive method of preventing fire scale during vacuum casting....

(14) [Ganoksin] Small Bench Tools Descriptions
This selected list describes a number of small, easily made tools which can improve efficiency, speed and ease of working at the bench. While by no means a complete listing of the tools one has at one´s bench or of vernacular goldsmiths tools it demonstrates examples of the kind of thinking required for ease of working at the bench. Remember, speed and efficiency give one more creative time. Each tool represents a useful production aid and involves skills applicable to other areas of metalworking in it´s making and discussion....

(14) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing - Niello Work
Niello is a deep black metal mixture that is fused onto metal for decorative effect. Though worked on three-dimensional objects, the effect might be considered graphic because it relies primarily on shape and pattern. The contrast of the lustrous black inlay against either matte or polished metal is striking and has earned niello a special place in the arsenal of decorative techniques.

(14) [Ganoksin] The Metalsmith Papers - Lamination of Non Ferrous Metals by Diffusion
We have been interested in Mokume-gane for a number of years. The only information we could find was by the soldering of different metals, cutting in half, resoldering to increase the number of layers and then exposing those laminates by punching from the reverse side and removing those embossments or by carving drilling, etching from the top. These methods have many drawbacks; namely, air pockets, cracking and peeling. Its limitations are basically that it cannot be effectively formed or raised into complex forms. During a recent trip to Japan we visited three craftsmen who practiced Mokume-gane and worked with one of them……

(13) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Fabricating Custom Earrings
This article examines manufacturing procedures used to hand fabricate 950 palladium earrings. These custom earrings designed by Lainie Mann feature cultured mabe pearls and pink sapphires set into hand formed and fabricated 950 palladium. The materials used in this project include....

(13) [Ganoksin] Determination of Ring Sizes - Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing
A ring fits well when it is no longer felt on the finger. If in the course of time the size of the finger changes or if the ring is to be fitted for another wearer, a sizing of the ring is necessary. This article will lead you step by step through the process of resizing rings....

(13) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Working with Palladium Stock Mountings and Findings
The reintroduction of white, bright and light palladium for use in the jewelry industry has quickly introduced an expanding assortment of palladium stock items offered in a variety of palladium alloys. It is very important to know about the 950 palladium alloy that you are working with and to become familiar with their compatible features. Because the ingredients of 950 palladium alloys vary, so may factors such as color and working characteristics. For the best results when sizing, servicing or building jewelry pieces at the bench, use like materials....

(13) [Ganoksin] Notes on Asbestos and Jewelers
Asbestos is a real problem for jewelers. When I was first a student in 1974, we had a bucket of loose asbestos fibers under the soldering bench; we would take a handful and moisten it with water to form a clay-like blob to hold things together for soldering. This would be unthinkable today....

(13) [Ganoksin] White Precious Metal Alloys - Look on the White Side
In the jewelry industry, it’s rare to have an alloy without drawbacks, particularly when the alloy is not yellow. When designing alloys, there are a number of hurdles to jump. First, color is absolutely critical. Unfortunately, we alloy designers have a relatively limited palette to work with. Gold and copper are the only two metals that are truly “colored;” all others are varying shades of gray. So when we design a white alloy, we don’t make it 'whiter,' we make it 'less yellow.'....

(13) [Ganoksin] Mechanical Chic - the Jewelry of Connie Verrusio
Fascinated by the way things work, Connie Verrusio creates radical new jewelry forms from leftover functions. Connie Verrusio has double vision: when she looks at screws, she sees earrings, and when she looks at a ruler, she sees a bracelet. For a dozen years Verrusio has found the jewels for her work in flea market junk boxes and hardware bins. Radio tubes, fishing weights and tail lights are the appropriated materials Verrusio transforms into ornaments that challenge preconceptions about what makes interesting jewelry....

(12) [Ganoksin] Mokume Gane: Manufacturing Works of Art
Mokume gane translated from Japanese means 'wood eye metal'. This rare metal lamination process was developed and used by Japanese craftsmen in the 17th century for the adornment of samurai swords. Today, mokume gane jewelry is growing in popularity and this article covers the details related to the manufacturing process, ring liners and rails, settings, servicing and quality issues....

(12) [Ganoksin] Enameling on Sterling Silver
I enamel on various metals making a variety of pieces from post earrings to 5" x 8" framed enamels. The enameling techniques I use for sterling silver are cloisonné, champlevé and plique-à-jour. When I began enameling in 1971, it was accepted that true transparent enamels could not be used on sterling silver. After studying with Joanna Stone, I persevered with my experimentation until I developed a procedure for enameling on sterling silver. Every step is important. My sterling enamel jewelry pieces are made with a narrow sterling frame that I cut out with a jeweler's saw blade. The same pattern is used to cut out both the bottom piece and the frame. The frame is sweat soldered to the face of the sterling piece that is to be enameled. This method eliminates the need for making a bezel setting for the enamel. I also use this method for combining champlevé with the cloisonné. Instead of making just a frame, I saw out two full size pieces and then saw out cells in which I will enamel and place cloisonné wires in either some or all of the cells....

(12) [Ganoksin] The Metalsmith Papers - Potentially Harmful Substances Encountered By the Metalsmith
In every aspect of my daily life I am, and have been for quite some time, concerned with promoting and maintaining my health. This concern naturally carries over into my working environment. The following article lists potentially harmful substances encountered by the metalsmith - Dictionary of Substances....

(12) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Fusing
When precious metal is heated to temperatures approaching its melting point there is a short span during which the outer layer or skin begins to melt while the interior remains solid. Or, to say the same thing technically, the interior remains in the solidus zone while the surface regions enter the liquidus range. The effects are to create an uneven reticulated surface and to allow pieces to join by welding. Every goldsmith discovers fusing, usually by accident and usually as a mistake, when pieces being soldered are overheated....

(12) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Project - Hollow Ring
One of metal's unique qualities is its ability to be shaped and formed without breaking - its malleability. The hollow ring project demonstrates the fabrication of a shell structure, a type of construction used frequently in goldsmithing and silversmithing. A template is used to lay out the main pattern of this shell structure. The blank is then pierced and formed with hammers. A tube and other components are added to complete the ring. The project employs such skills as hollow forming, filing, fitting, and soldering. The construction is completed by adding a setting for a round cabachon stone. After fabricating such a ring once, the maker will understand how to modify the pattern to accommodate different finger sizes and designs....

(12) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - PLIQUE-A-JOUR - Russian Soldering Method - Enameling with professionals
There are a number of methods for plique a jour, a filigree technique that allows light to shine through the enamel, much like stained glass. With plique a jour, there is no backing for the vitreous enamel; instead a structure of metal is made with open spaces, called cells, for the enamels. I form a framework of fine silver square wire and within that framework I solder wires together in a design formed of cells. To make the framework as I do, you need to know how to use the jeweler's torch and how to solder. I use this Russian method of soldering primarily to make fine silver earrings. As the earrings dangle, the light shines through the enameled cells.....

(12) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Basic Principles of Construction and Soldering
A short review of construction and soldering principles would be a good idea at this point. They're fairly basic. Principles of soldering....

(11) [Ganoksin] Dreaming in Metal - The Jewelry of Steff Korsage
Jewelry artist Steff Korsage followed her own determined path to find her own distinct voice, making hollow forms from metal - as individual beads and elements in eye-catching jewelry. One night in 1992, Steff Korsage had an auspicious dream. She dreamed of metal, geometric pieces of metal, filling the sky with their fascinating shapes. Instead of rolling over and going back to sleep, Korsage did what any sensible metalsmith would do....

(11) [Ganoksin] Step by Step - Black and White Ribbons
With a simple corrugation tool and basic metalsmithing skills, you can make these great earrings. The newest 'toy' in my studio is a Microfold Brake. I've been having a wonderful time learning what can be done with this tool, experimenting and making metalwork that combines microfolding with my other favorite techniques. I've used the Microfold Brake for bracelets, earrings, pins, boxes, a teapot, and a Hanukkah menorah, yet I feel like I'm just getting started with my explorations! I find the immediacy of the tool very alluring. I also like the way the rippling corrugation can be either organic - or geometric looking, depending on how it's manipulated and finished....

(11) [Ganoksin] Linda Crawford - Cloisonné Beads of Fine Silver
I have been making my cloisonne beads since 1996 in a variety of methods with fine silver and wires of fine silver or 24K gold for the designs. My method of fusing two domed halves of fine silver requires fewer metalsmithing skills than the other methods I use, which is why I have chosen to explain this one. Although I currently create my beads the way I describe here, the door is always open for experimentation....

(11) [Ganoksin] Foldforming - Scoring and Bending Procedures
Silicon carbide separating discs are superb for scoring metal for bending, particularly when the metal sheet is less than 4 or 5 cm across. While I was originally taught to use discs for catch building which involves only straight lines I discovered that they are superb for curved line scoring. Advantages include no disturbance of a textured sheet metal front surface while gaining enormous changes in plane. This is how many of my own pieces are done....

(11) [Ganoksin] Metals For Enameling
The most commonly used metals for enameling are pure copper and fine silver. The fine silver is primarily used for jewelry because of its cost, color and the advantage of not producing a firescale coat like copper does when it is fired. The copper is the most used metal for enameling for many reasons: its malleability, its color, availability, and cost. In addition, it usually maintains its shape in the firing process. The appropriate gauge....

(11) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Special Repair Work - Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing -
highlights the common aspects ones encounter in jewelry repairs. It covers point related to mechanical Repairs, brooches repairs, chains repairs and bracelets repairs

(10) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Robly Glover - Pragmatic Archetypes - Metalsmith -
Archetypal images in sheet-constructed holloware, the vessels of Robly Glover give concrete form to the most ethereal and intuitive of content. Fascinated by the notion of unconscious predilections that from the unfathomable recesses of the mind murmur their incessant persuasion over actions, Glover is an implicit Jungian. His work tacitly acknowledges both the reality of the soul and its nonsensory receptiveness to rhythms in nature and the influence of events from the remote past....

(10) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Repairing a Silver Shank
Your customer brings in a silver colored ring marked 925 with a broken shank for repair. You measure the customer finger as size 6.5 and assure her that the ring will look 'greatly improved' when she returns to pick it up in a few days. Back in the shop you begin with a pair of half-round pliers to....

(10) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Some Notes On Granulation
Some Notes On Granulation. By Charles Lewton-Brain,1996

(10) [Ganoksin] Hot Enough for You? - What kind of torch do you need?
With so many torches on the market, a first-time buyer can be quickly overwhelmed by the sheer number of decisions that have to be made. Choosing a fuel, fitting the right tips, and determining the type of flame you need are just the beginning. To make decision-making tougher, all torches look pretty much alike. They have two open-ended tubes for the attachment of two color-coded rubber hoses, conducting air to one and fuel to the other. They are either single-fuel or a combination of oxygen and fuel, which tend to be hotter. Some torches accommodate different fuels simply by changing the tip. Each gas produces a different flame. Which brings us to the burning question: which torch will produce the flame power needed to get the job done?....

(10) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Theory and Practice of Goldsmithing - Enameling
For more than two thousand years, goldsmiths have fused glass onto their work for color enrichment. Wonderful enameled work can be found from many ancient cultures, providing familiar icons of the technical skill and aesthetic sensibilities of their makers. In our own century enameling has benefitted from scientific and industrial research and because of this it has grown from being just one element of the goldsmith's art to a position of prominence on its own. One need only think of enameled housewares, architectural trim and utilitarian objects to understand the importance of enameling in our society....

(10) [Ganoksin] The Secret Life of Solder
Understanding why solders melt and how they flow is fundamental to mastering soldering techniques. The alloys we use every day to solder our work undergo some amazing transformations as we heat them. If you can stay with me through this article you will understand exactly what you are seeing happening before your eyes as you put a torch to your work. As you will learn, we have our noses pretty close to some pretty incredible phenomena....

(10) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Enameling - Etching Options for Champleve
I have found through may research on metal etching that there is a plethora of information out there. I hope by compiling it and offering it to you, you will be better able to choose the best option for your champleve needs. There are of course means other than etching to prepare a surface for champleve enameling, namely piercing and soldering, forming with a hydraulic press, stamping or engraving. This article however will deal only with the etching options....

(10) [Ganoksin] Hermann Junger - The Jeweled Meadow
Over the past forty years, jewelry making has become increasingly rich and diversified as the time-honored reliance on precious metals and gems has been augmented or even disavowed. After the Second World War, jewelry artists more and more turned to intellectual and artistic concepts as their starting points to provoke a reexamination of the role of jewelry itself as well as of the relationships between maker and wearer. Jewelry artists in northern Europe and the United States led the way, and in Germany, Hermann Junger exerted a strong influence on the development of contemporary jewelry both as an artist and mentor....

(10) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Chain Makin Project
Jewelry Making Project - Chain Making - This project is for beginners that wish to become silversmiths, part time or full time. Keep in mind that there are many ways to do this faster with the use of mechanical tools, but you are doing this project to learn how to use your frame saw and how to solder. Coutsey of Two Suns Trading Co. Inc.

(10) [Ganoksin] Bohemian Rhapsody - Importing Barbara Seidenath
When Venetian glassmakers sold out their state secrets to Czech glassmakers, Jablonec began its hegemony in glass beads. The region also became renowned for through its production of costume jewelry during the second half of the 18th century, and together the two industries helped it survive numerous European conflicts and two world wars. After World War II, however, the Germans were expelled and resettled in NeuGablonz, the German name for the old Czech town. Jablonec, however, still exists as the center of Czech glass beadmaking....

(9) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Reticulation Notes
Reticulation produces lovely textured surfaces that appear very 'natural' and can be controlled to produce specific patterns with practice. Used extensively by craft and art jewelers in the 1960's and early 70's in North America it lost fashionability in the 80's. It provides textured sheet metal that can be used as a component part of an object.

(9) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Hollow Carat Gold Jewellery from Strip and Tube
There is always pressure to reduce the cost of manufactured items and carat gold jewellery is no exception to this situation. In fact, it is only relatively recently (1997) that the economic and currency turmoil in countries like South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia had such an impact on the local gold price that, at times, gold jewellery sales effectively ceased altogether. In Indonesia, for example, at a time when the dollar gold price was falling, the gold price in the local currency increased by 90%. What, then, are some of the ways in which gold jewellery costs can be reduced? One approach is the use of mass production techniques to lower the unit manufacturing cost of items. Such techniques include the well-established chain making, stamping and investment casting, the more recent electroforming and the very recent powder metallurgy processes. These techniques are continually developing as equipment manufacturers make more advances and market their products more widely.....

(9) [Ganoksin] Mystery Box Jewelry Challenge
Welcome to the Mystery Box Challenge! You are among the select designers who have received this box of materials, Your mission is to use these materials to create a unique piece of jewelry in four weeks' time. You must incorporate into your design at least one item from each of the six material categories; beyond that, you can use the materials as you wish. You may also add materials as desired....

(9) [Ganoksin] Step by Step - Photoetching Using Photocopy Transfer
Photoetching metal is simple AND FUN! Etching can be used for printing processes, as an artifact of art, or for roller print embellishment. It involves a mordant (acid) to etch an image onto metal and a resist to repel the mordant. A resist can take many forms: plastic, vinyl, marking pens, duct tape, nail polish, etc. As long as it resists the mordant, the procedure will work. This technique creates high resolution images, and intricate surrounding textures that give your pieces an organic quality....

(9) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Molding Multiples - Using metal clay for production models
Metal clay has not yet proven to be an effective substitute for casting: sterling silver is often preferred over fine silver for its relative strength, and the higher cost of metal clay compared to cast silver generally makes it unappealing for large volume production. But some craft artists have begun bridging the gap between one-of-a-kind and volume production by using metal clay to create production models and turning to traditional casting techniques for their reproduction.....

(9) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Fit to be Sized - Ring Sizing
Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see any damage or potential problems that are not marked clearly on the envelope, inform the store manager or sales clerk who took in the job so that they can notify the customer. It is extremely important that you inform them now, before any work is performed, rather than wait until later to inform them....

(9) [Ganoksin] Step By Step - Forged Leaf Brooch
Since the earliest civilizations, the leaf shape has been an inspiration for jewelry. With this 41/2 x 13/4-in. (11.4 x 4.4cm) brooch, you can evoke the beauty of fall foliage or the first leaves of spring. Experiment with patinas to enhance the hammered texture of your leaf....

(9) [Ganoksin] Advanced Joining Techniques for Platinum Jewellery
Joining is a very important production technique in the field of jewellery production. Therefore it is useful to know, what kinds of different joining techniques are possible. This paper will give you a rough overlook on joining techniques as well as some tips and tricks to do a good joint between platinum and platinum, and between platinum and gold. Which technique to prefer depends on the worker skill and on the available equipment....

(9) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Terms and Appropriate Vocabulary for Metal Corrugation
Metal corrugation is a unique roll-formed process whereby a precise and specific repetitive surface pattern is achieved when processing thin gauge annealed 36 -24 sheet metal or wire. Metal is processed using special tools manufactured with corresponding matching and enmeshing fluted gears that are aligned in such a manner so that the crest of one roller fills the trough of the other. Metal corrugation is a unique process NOT to be confused with the fold-forming techniques studied and highly developed by Charles Lewton-Brain.....

(8) [Ganoksin] Linda Threadgill: Conceptualizing Ornament
Threadgill's keen interest in ornament undoubtedly arises from her longstanding practice of etching motifs into the surfaces of her works, a process that she began perfecting as early as her graduate student days. In 1984, after studying the manner in which printed circuit boards were mass-manufactured, she developed a smaller and more portable version of industry's spray-etching machines. Armed with this technology, easily applicable to a photo-resist technique, she deftly created bas-relief patterns on thin metal plates that could be incorporated into larger and more complex works.....

(8) [Ganoksin] New Heights, New Widths -- The Jewelry of Cynthia Eid
Standing in her forming studio, surrounded by hammers, stakes, and photo equipment, metalsmith Cynthia Eid is experiencing a moment of excitement. Even though she has finessed metal into altered states for 30 years, this decisive moment is always riveting. A sheet of sterling silver gleams on the workbench while Eid ponders its destiny. Her next move will, through muscle and mastery, transform it into jewelry, hollowware, or Judaica - almost at the drop of a hammer. But long before this sterling silver adorns a body, a table, or a synagogue, Eid must listen to the metal....

(8) [Ganoksin] Recent Developments in Electroforming
Electroforming is an old, established technology and, in its original form, it was a bit cumbersome to use. However, as with other jewelry technologies, it has made great strides over the last decade and is now a much easier and quicker process. In this article, I shall focus on gold, but other precious metals can also be electroformed successfully....

(8) [Ganoksin] Platinum Jewelry Making - Fearless Platinum Repairs
What does it take to be successful at repairing, customizing, and servicing platinum jewelry? First, an understanding of properties unique to platinum. When platinum is mined, it is usually found with one or more of its five sister metals, called the platinum group metals: palladium, osmium, rhodium, ruthenium, and iridium....

(8) [Ganoksin] Coloring for Metalsmiths
Jewelers are a restless and inquisitive group. Not content with producing sumptuous jewelry, they spray it with chemicals, dip it in acids or torch it. Just to see what happens. On a good day, what happens is colored metal. However, the unpredictability, potential toxicity, and the subdued color range of these patinas has driven a group of outsider jewelers to experiment with new ways to put color in its place: on sterling, copper, aluminum, and steel. Instead of reaching for chemicals, acid, or heat, these colorists improvise with low-tech materials and experiment with new techniques that welcome spontaneity back into jewelry making....

(8) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Project - Curb and Cable Chains
There are hundreds of different types of chains, each with its own system of assembly. Most chains are assembled from individual links. In some chains, such as the foxtail, the links are individually soldered closed and then assembled. In other chains, such as the mesh and rope chains, the links are assembled and then they all are soldered at one time. Chains like the curb and cable patterns shown here repeat alternating steps of soldering and assembly. The following procedures describe two distinct chain patterns that can be created by treating the same assembly in different ways....

(7) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Light, Bright, White 950 Palladium: Fashioning the Perfect Contrast
Striking differences between elements such as color, tone, texture, reflection, refraction, pattern and shape create contrast. Contrast not only enhances the qualities of each juxtaposed element, but can also create a pleasing balance in a design. Jewelry designs featuring the richness of yellow and the brightness of white metals offer consumers another direction in expanding their jewelry wardrobe....

(7) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium Bridal Jewelry: Selling Tips and Manufacturing a Custom Engagement Ring
Retailers have been converting bridal inventories from white gold to palladium as manufacturers expand the selection of new palladium jewelry designs. In addition to stocking palladium pieces, they have been custom making bridal jewelry with new palladium alloys. There are several factors responsible for this favorable (re)turn to palladium including....

(7) [Ganoksin] Noel Yovovich - Seeing titanium in a new light
Noel Yovovich discovered titanium in her first year as a jewelry artist. 'A friend of mine was working with it and doing fairly typical things -- heating it from one side to get gradient bright colors, for example,' says Yovovich. 'She showed me how to do it, and because I can never leave well enough alone, I started experimenting with it.' That experimentation led her to what would develop into her signature pieces -- complex, detailed pins and pendants in silver and titanium, which feature landscapes and interior scenes....

(7) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Manufacturing Tips and Techniques
The 'other white metal' is making its presence known and it won't be long before light, bright and white 950 palladium products find their way to your workbench, either as merchandise from your store or customers' jewelry taken in for service or alteration. Notable designers and manufacturers like Frederick Goldman, Scott Kay, and Lieberfarb have incorporated 950 palladium products in their bridal lines for over a year. A growing list of 950 palladium suppliers and manufacturers of sheet, wire and casting grain as well as findings and mountings like Keystone Findings, Telford, PA, R-Findings, Rochester, NY and PMI, Dallas, TX are creating products for the supply and service of palladium jewelry for retailers. This series of articles featuring the manufacturing of palladium jewelry is offered to enhance your working knowledge of palladium on the sales floor and at the jewelers' bench. This installment features information, tips and techniques for working with palladium through a manufacturing sequence required to produce this necklace and earrings....

(7) [Ganoksin] Some basic metal working tools for beginners
Making jewelry is sometimes seen as a difficult or an expensive proposition. In reality a basic metal working shop can be set up quite inexpensively. Cutting (separating materials), soldered construction and finishing are the three main things that jewellers do and what follows is a list of basic tools for doing these things. One should be able to set up a basic shop for less than a hundred dollars. Remember safety and make sure you have ventilation and use eye protection when sawing and performing other potentially dangerous tasks, it's not worth getting hurt because you took a short cut or didn't think....

(7) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Palladium - White's Next Move
It's no secret that palladium has captured the attention of the industry. In 2005, purchase of palladium for jewelry use worldwide shot up by 54 percent, according to Johnson Matthey's Platinum 2006, and this past year has seen a proliferation of articles and seminars about the platinum group metal -- specifically 950 palladium -- as well as the formation of a new industry group, Palladium Alliance International. Yet with all of that interest has also come questions -- about how best to work with the metal, how to market and sell it, and what to expect in the future: Is palladium really here to stay? To offer insights into those issues, MJSA invited several industry experts to share their thoughts on what manufacturers can expect when working with palladium....

(7) [Ganoksin] Magnesia Blocks are Superior Soldering Surfaces

(7) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Making a Yellow Gold and Platinum Ring
This two-part series highlights tips and techniques, tools and accessories and procedures for custom making the 18 karat yellow gold and platinum ring featured in the counter sketch for a green tourmaline and diamonds....

(7) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Enameling - Cloisonne Primer, History of cloisonne technique
In the late '20's, a small enamel tray, made in China, introduced us to the word cloisonne. The material looked like the granite ware in our kitchen. Obviously the wires were used to keep the colors separated. Then, cloisonne was enamel with wires separating the colors. Simplicity, pure and simple. This is where the majority of the general public leaves the subject, little knowing or caring about its rich history....

(7) [Ganoksin] Setting & Shank Assembly Using Tack-Welding Technology
Setting and shank assemblies are routine work in many retail manufacturing jewelry shops. Here's a method for expediting this process using ABI tack-welding technology....

(6) [Ganoksin] Preparing a Remount Using Tack-Welding Technology
Tacking settings in location on remounts using tack-welding technology offers the bench jeweler many advantages over traditional assembly methods.....

(6) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Firing Created Moissanite and Diamonds into place in PMC
Firing Created Moissanite and Diamonds into place in PMC... teach you about the different ways to set stones, without traditional fabrication methods. Not only can diamonds be sintered in place, but a myriad of other wonderful, and precious gemstones can be utilized.

(6) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Teaching Through Process: Towards A New Metals Education
An art school is in some ways a difficult place to learn to be a metalsmith. Traditional systems of industry education took from 3 to 7 years of concentrated time to educate a goldsmith. This is because metals, as Jamie Bennett puts it, are a 'process oriented media'. By this is meant there that there are often many more ways of working and manipulating the material than in other media....

(6) [Ganoksin] Enameling - Torch Firing
Torch firing is a wonderful way to experience enameling in all of it stages. I see it as an extension to kiln fired enamels and not a replacement since the results are very different. It requires working from instinct with a sensitive observation of cause and effect. The torch oxidizes and blends the pigments, creates patterns and causes chemical reactions that do not occur with kiln firing. Firing times are intuitive and the temperature is controlled by the length of the flame. The torch fires with a cascade of heat, allowing for control over heat placement throughout the piece. Solder seams and delicate colors (soft enamels) thus can be avoided while areas needing high heat can be hit directly....

(6) [Ganoksin] Multi-Metal Lamination - aka Metal Overlay
Multi-metal Lamination is a type of 'faux' married metal which produces a freer, more 'painterly' effect than the hard-edge, highly graphic, married metal. It is a technique in which designs may appear to float over other shapes and patterns. MML may be used in a figurative way or to produce over-all pattern....

(6) [Ganoksin] Making a Pewter Sake Cup
Pewter, an alloy of tin, antimony, and copper, dominated European tableware for half a millennium until it was eclipsed by porcelain in the early 19th century. Now, almost two hundred years later pewter has entered a renaissance in the hands of creative metalsmiths. In this project, suitable for beginners, you will learn how to cut, form, fuse, solder, and finish pewter to produce a lovely and function cup....

(6) [Ganoksin] Chain and Bracelet Catches - Part 1/2
The first requirement of all catches is that they secure neckpieces and bracelets in such a way that they will not fall off the wearer. Once this is accomplished, there are other concerns that should be addressed. Making catches requires a high level of skill, but the rewards, in both technical and aesthetic satisfaction, make the effort worthwhile. The following examples should only serve for inspiration, and may need to be altered for your particular use. It is part of the creative process when designing and drawing the piece to create the most suitable catch and to incorporate it into the entire design of the work.....

(6) [Ganoksin] Jewelers share their stories about working with findings
Jewelers share their stories about working with findings

(6) [Ganoksin] Fabrication of a Basic Tubing Catch
First one chooses an appropriate metal for the various parts, that is a metal with appropriate structural for it's thickness and stress in use. In this catch there is little stress in use and therefore one can use even as soft metal as sterling for the components. In 14k gold one could use thinner material than in silver. An appropriate thickness for the tube is 0.2-0.4 mm in gold and 0.3-0.5 mm in silver. The upright piece (often called the trestle) is about 1 mm thick. The trestle can be pierced through for decoration.

(6) [Ganoksin] Soldering - Ensuring a Piece Heats Evenly
One of the most difficult aspects of soldering is to heat the piece properly so that the solder will flow. For jobs involving small items, such as soldering the seam on a jump ring, this entails concentrated heating in a localized area, Most times, though, you must heat the entire piece of metal, especially when working on silver....

(6) [Ganoksin] Walking a Tightrope, Circus, Circus By Pierre-Yves Paquette
Children and adults alike enjoy the spectacle of the circus. For jewelry designer Pierre-Yves Paquette of Pierre-Yves in Saint-Sauveur, Quebec, Canada, the circus inspired an award-winning jewelry design. Fascinated by the colors under the big top, Paquette created the Circus, Circus ring, winner of the gold jewelry category in the 2012 NICHE Awards. Pairing perfect squares of 18k yellow gold and sterling silver in a harlequin pattern reminiscent of a clown's costume, Paquette's ring required no-nonsense attention to detail....

(6) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Making Earring posts by hand
Yes you can make your own earring posts. It is generally more cost effective to buy them, but making them is not a problem and there are times that it is useful to know how....

(6) [Ganoksin] Aluminum: Welded and Wearable - The Metalsmith Papers
The purpose of this paper is to acquaint the reader with the advantages and disadvantages of utilizing aluminum as a material for construction of wearable ornaments. In high-purity form aluminum is soft and ductile. Most commercial uses, however, require greater strength than pure aluminum affords. This is achieved in aluminum first by the addition of other elements to produce various alloys which singly or in combination impart strength to the metal....

(5) [Ganoksin] 105 Jewelers Bench Comments
In late 2006 I put together a survey on the Jewelers bench to which many Orchidians and others responded. There were a series of questions asked, and the answers were revealing, and contributed to my understanding of the jewelers bench and its functions, supporting my writing of the "The Jeweler's Bench", and MJSA/Orchid in Print book. In my teaching I will often ask students what they would tell a hypothetical friend, what is important to know, say about soldering and constructing a catch. What would you say that is important to keep your friend out of trouble and to ease their path? This then is the sense of the question addressed here about the jewelers bench....

(5) [Ganoksin] Belle Brooke Barer Creates a Necklace That Echoes Ancient Greece
Belle Brooke Barer of Belle Brooke Designs in Los Angeles created a successful union when she brought together 18k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver in her necklace named for the Greek goddess of marriage, Hera. The design began with five pear-shaped chrysoprase cabochons and an old sketch of a necklace with triangular links. The original drawing didn't have stones, but Barer quickly drew some in, first set vertically, then shifted to an angle. "On the sixth sketchit all came together for me," she says....

(5) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Studio Visit - Cynthia Eid
Consisting of three small rooms crammed with tools, boxes, and books (including a spare bathroom complete with shower stall/patina spray booth), the studio is part and parcel of Eid's home. This is not a grand sanctuary, it is the workspace of someone who has carved time and place out of a full family life. By the confines of the available square footage, the studio seems to have grown like a bonsai tree: small yet fully formed. The bench space is painfully tiny and the soldering area appears totally inadequate considering the scale of the commissions Eid produces. But, whether it is through disciplined and methodical work habits or by an ability to just 'make do,' Eid creates pieces that defy this constriction and exist fully and beautifully in large and magnificent spaces....

(5) [Ganoksin] About Heat Treating Metals
Heat treatment changes the microstructure of a metal or alloy. It is a process that may be applied after casting, or during or after fabrication. Since mechanical properties, such as strength, ductility, hardness, and toughness, and chemical properties, such as corrosion resistance, are in part dependent on microstructure, heat treatment can have a profound effect on them. There are a variety of reasons for heat treating gold, including, but not necessarily limited to, the following: To ease polishing, reduce wear and damage on the finished surface, increase strength, and increase corrosion resistance. Heat treatment can also be used to increase ductility after work hardening or to impart a springy quality to components such as money clips, catches, and clasps.....

(5) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Soumak as a Metal Technique
Soumak is a textile technique which is commonly found in the weaving of rugs in the Middle East. The technique has been around for a couple of thousand years and primarily has been used in cloth. As I learned various techniques of weaving in gold and silver, I adopted soumak as my most successful method for creating or enhancing my designs. Some of my creations are totally woven wire, with very little stone work, and others are integrating the weaving with the placement and setting of gemstones....

(5) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Suggestions for tools to order from Fischer
Suggestions for tools to order from Fischer, The following tools or tool sets that I recommend are either inexpensive for the quality and quantity or tools that are unavailable from elsewhere. Many of the following tools are intended for stonesetting use.

(5) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Making a 3-Stone Ring
When heated to high heat soldering temperatures, some 950 palladium alloys will develop a bluish-purple surface discoloration. It's easily removed by briefly and mildly heating the piece with a neutral flame. When palladium is heated to gold soldering temperatures, no surface discoloration occurs...

(5) [Ganoksin] White Wedding: The Marriage of Platinum and Sterling
Throughout the history of jewelry making, metalsmiths have strived to perfect not only their artistry, but their materials as well. In this ongoing quest, innovative metallurgists have produced new white metals in an attempt to combine all the virtues of existing metals while eliminating all the disadvantages. Their goal was to create a metal that resisted tarnish and firescale, that was both malleable and durable, that had a pure white color, and that didn't cost a fortune. The majority of these experimental alloys have been based on traditional alloy recipes with the addition of a few other elements. Most alloys gained some resistance to firescale and tarnish only to sacrifice the necessary malleability, or they added costs by requiring the metalsmith to buy new tools and buffs to prevent contamination....

(5) [Ganoksin] Bracelet Tongue Replacement
With the popularity of tennis bracelets over the last 20 years replacing broken tongues has become a common repair in the jewelry shop. Typically these are replaced by soldering a new tongue in place. However, using a torch to solder a tongue onto a bracelet creates two problems....

(5) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Studio Visit - Jeffrey Herman
Jeffrey Herman is an accomplished silversmith, master of holloware repair, and the founding director of the Society of American Silversmiths. His live/work space includes areas devoted to each of these specialties. The front door opens into a 25 by 40 foot open area that comprises living room, kitchen, drafting, and office spaces. The ceilings soar 13 feet above. Large windows frame a sunset view. The floors in this former brewery are marvelous old hardwood that has been polished and varnished, adding warmth, character, and a smooth surface for scooting around on a wheeled desk chair....

(5) [Ganoksin] Laser Welding - Making Soldering a Technique of the Past.
When first starting to work with the laser welders, operators should experiment with five or six different alloys commonly used. It is also recommended to source different types of alloys in casting and strip/stamping form. This gives the operator a better understanding of the composition and thermal conductivity of the metals. Since close attention must be paid to the thickness or thinness, shape, and fit of the parts to be welded, operators should test-weld some parts together at different settings (voltage, pulse length, beam diameter), then cut a cross section of the piece to check the weld depth. This exercise provides the operator with a 'feel' for the different alloys and how they react to various power levels....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Manufacturing Custom Earrings Using Tack-Welding Technology
This custom job of 14 karat yellow gold earrings with diamonds and pink tourmaline is made easy using tack-welding technology. Tacking the pieces prior to soldering enabled me to ensure proper alignment and soldering procedures without the need for excessive and cumbersome holding devices. The soldering steps were minimized, reducing the potential for prong failure.....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Hinges with bearings, a bracelet and a box
A bearing is essentially tube sections which are attached to the metal being hinged into which the hinge itself is installed. The use of bearings offers us a couple of things. First of all, it offers us a way of increasing the structural strength of our hinge unit. Secondly, it offers us a method of having a stop -- that is, unlike a butt hinge, which can rotate over an extreme range, until the two pieces of metal almost touch, you can design a hinge with bearings so that it only rotates a certain amount, and then stops as the bearings collide with each other.

(4) [Ganoksin] Practical, Inexpensive, Hydraulic Pressing and Die Forming for the Artist Metalsmith
How do you solve the problem of producing a limited edition of hand wrought, hollow forms in a reasonable amount of time, and yet have them fit together and look fairly identical without looking machine made? Raising, chasing or masonite die-forming might be an answer, If you are fast and accurate enough at it. But even then, those methods can't compare with the speed, ease and precision offered by the inexpensive, simple, practical forming of such pieces by use of dies and a small hydraulic press....

(4) [Ganoksin] Studio Makeover: Elizabeth Garvin of Elizabeth Garvin Design
Long, narrow, and shaped like a bowling alley, Elizabeth Garvin's 750-square-foot studio wasn't her favorite when she was shopping for a work space. But it was secure, had running hot water, and was just a 10-minute walk from home. Initially, Garvin operated Elizabeth Garvin Design from the studio, where she produced a moderate volume of production silver jewelry. When she transformed her business in 2011 and launched Elizabeth Garvin Fine, her shop needed a revamp. While her old company would continue its silver production, her new company produces much less volume but more labor-intensive work with gold, palladium, and silver. The additional business meant bringing in a significant amount of new equipment, including two rolling mills and a laser welder, while also maintaining the production capabilities and equipment for the silver production lines. There wasn't enough room for each brand to have its own production area, so Garvin needed to find a way to organize the shop with detailed systems that her four bench jewelers could observe and maintain. Here's what she did....

(4) [Ganoksin] Hints on making tubing
Not all sizes and wall thicknesses of tube come seamless from a factory or refiner. Especially when working in gold it is not cost effective or timely to order in a specific tube size, material, or wall thickness. There are many times when you need a piece of tubing....

(4) [Ganoksin] Solder Flow Retardant Notes
While goldsmiths normally strive to have their solder flow easily, there are times you don't want it to flow, such as spilling over a decorated surface, if it 'freezes' a mechanism, or if it threatens to open a gap in a seam soldered earlier in a construction. The best way of not melting earlier seams is....

(4) [Ganoksin] Installing New Tapered Bezels Using Tack-Welding Technology
This ring is in for repair and reconstruction. When it was originally made, 6-prong settings were used to mount the customers diamonds. All prong tops are severely worn and one prong has broken. The customer has requested bezel settings, so the prong settings were removed from the ring. The ring was re-sized according to the customers request and then pre-finished. For tacking the tapered 14-karat yellow gold bezels, the brass tweezers lead was modified to firmly hold a bezel. A ball bur was used to remove metal from inside each end of the tweezers....

(4) [Ganoksin] Setting Gemstones in Wax
The one of the most revolutionary advance in recent years, apart from the Laser soldering, is the method of 'Setting Stones in Wax'. It has 'freed' up many impossible designs and allowing the manufacturer to forge ahead and create many difficult setting projects. Otherwise, that company might have had to re-design their ideas and to have the stones hand set. A jewellery company can now replicate each design with the same degree of accuracy and professionalism....

(4) [Ganoksin] Poor Mans Wax Turning Technique - How To Turn Wax On a Foredom
This paper will describe how to turn a block of wax into a pottery of approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter and 2 inches tall. The pottery was turned in two pieces. The lower section below the ring below the inlaid stones and the portion above the ring. I have turned wax that is 3 inches thick.....

(4) [Ganoksin] Tips For Working With Alternative Metals
With the high price of gold, jewelry makers are looking to incorporate alternative metals into their lines. I frequently work with palladium and stainless steel in my shop. The following are a few tips and tricks you can use to work more effectively with these metals....

(4) [Ganoksin] Use Cold connections to Make Your Jewelry Hot
Cold connections are great alternatives to soldering, especially if you want to use fragile or flammable materials in your jewelry designs. Cold connections have many variations, and this project will give you a closer look at hinged tabs and two styles of rivets. In this bracelet, they become more than just a heat-free option -- they are the focus of the design. Half of the bracelet's brass panels are riveted flush to the copper links, while alternate brass panels are raised with spaced rivets. For added design interest, the brass panels are embossed using roll-printing. The hinged tabs connect the bracelet links and visually blend with the clasp for a seamless look.....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - 105 Jewelers Bench Comments
In late 2006 I put together a survey on the Jewelers bench to which many Orchidians and others responded. There were a series of questions asked, and the answers were revealing, and contributed to my understanding of the jewelers bench and its functions, supporting my writing of the "The Jeweler's Bench", and MJSA/Orchid in Print book. Some of the specific answers were used in the book, but many served to buttress my arguments, or show me things I had not thought about. The answers were illuminating and, through their repetition of points they reinforced certain themes that are universal, and vital to the working jeweler and goldsmith. This article is then a compilation of these comments....

(4) [Ganoksin] Enameling - Cloisonne Cup
Who has not dreamt of that nobly shaped chalice, enameled all over with immaculate transparents... maybe just one fine gold line winding around its outside... so elegantly understated, so utterly simple... That is poetry. It would neither work nor last. A chalice has to withstand very hard use, and maybe even abuse. It must be carefully planned. That is why I have made this cup a teaching example. [Step by step with illustrations]....

(4) [Ganoksin] Creative Freedom Technology has opened doors for jewelry designers
The jewelry industry has seen a veritable flood of new technologies in recent years-from CAD/CAM and laser welders to new alloys and Precious Metal Clay (PMC). And after a tentative start, jewelry designers have begun to embrace them. The result has been designs both simple and sophisticated, clumsy attempts and elegant results. Critics have derided the new technologies for producing jewelry that's sterile or amateur, while proponents argue that various technologies will forever change the way we make jewelry....

(4) [Ganoksin] Cloisonne on Steel
hen Joseph Trippetti returned from the Army in 1946, he studied for three years at Philadelphia College of Art and the fourth year at Sheffield College of Arts and Crafts in England, where he majored in silversmithing. He has been enameling since the 1950s. For some years he taught enameling and painting before concentrating on commissions and gallery exhibitions. The medieval tapestries still influence his designs. His cloisonns were on domed copper plaques before he turned to large steel tiles.....

(4) [Ganoksin] Tool Modificataions for Tack-, Fusion- and Pulse-arc-Welding Technology part 2
Custom jewelry projects for tack-, fusion-, and pulse-arc-welding sometimes call for special welding tool lead attachments. Bench jewelers often make the required leads using standard bench tools to better hold parts for pre-assembly and welding. Here are a few tack-, fusion-, and pulse-arc-welding tool making basics you may find helpful....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Turquoise, Platinum and 22 Karat Granulation Earrings Using Tack-, Fusion- and Pulse-Arc Welding Technology
Turquoise, Platinum and 22 Karat Granulation Earrings Using Tack-, Fusion- and Pulse-Arc Welding Technology....

(4) [Ganoksin] Tool Junkies - It's not a crime to love your bench tools
What you should be is excited to read this article and see what others just like you have to say about their favorite bench tools. So you have a passion for hardware-loving tools is not a crime!

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Etching
Etching uses chemical corrosion rather than mechanical force to selectively remove metal. Simply put, the idea is to cloak parts of an object with an acid-proof paint then submerge the piece in acid. The caustic liquid eats away at exposed areas to create a relief. When the proper depth is reached the piece is withdrawn, rinsed and cleaned to reveal a pattern of raised and lowered sections. The process can be used for delicate linear drawings, for bold reliefs, for letters, and as a preliminary step for enameling, niello, or inlay....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - A selected Jewellery / Metals Bibliography
A selected bibliography list for the jeweler - Metal working, Casting, Plating, Enamelling ,Gem Cutting, Setting, Engraving and Etching, Other Techniques, Jewelry Repairs and A Selected Bibliography for Materials Science for Goldsmiths - Over 100 listings. (By: Charles Lewton-Brain)

(4) [Ganoksin] Electroforming for Innovative Design
There are four principal methods of producing jewellery today: Hand making, using traditional craft skills, Investment (Lost wax) Casting, Pressing (stamping) and Electroforming. More than 50 % of all jewellery is produced as hollow parts; this is mainly realized by using either a pressing technique or electroforming. The advantages of hollow jewellery are wearer comfort on the one hand, such as in the case of ear ornaments or brooches, and price on the other hand, since hollow parts are less expensive than solid parts due to precious metal savings.....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Andy Cooperman, Sargasso Server, 2002
Andy Cooperman's Sargasso Server, a contemporary sterling silver fish slice, evokes life in the sea. The blade resembles a squid's tapering, almost conical head, trailed by silver and gold 'tentacles' that form the handle. These long, interwoven strands of metal also suggest tangles of kelp, or sargassum weed. The transitional piece between handle and blade imitates the flared movement of a jellyfish and the nodular texture of a sea urchin. A Seattle metalsmith who works primarily as a jeweler....

(4) [Ganoksin] Fabricating a 950 Palladium Setting Using Tack-Welding Technology
This simple pendant design will be made with 950 palladium wire. Tack-welding technology will be used to temporarily hold the prong wires prior to soldering to the lower bezel gallery wire. The trillion shaped Danburite weighs 6.4 carats and measures 13.35mm. No commercial settings were available to accommodate this gemstone....

(4) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Choosing The Right White Gold
The popularity of white gold has us all looking to the most perplexing gold we use. Perplexing a variety of ways. Why would we want to 'colorize' gold at all? Design creativity of course, but the color purists (you know who you are) have their say too. After all there are two other precious metals that are white. I happen to like white gold on its own or for contrast. We can not just use platinum instead. A larger item can be unwieldy in platinum, and silver is a different look and market anyway....

(3) [Ganoksin] Studio Visit - Fred Fenster
With barely a square inch unoccupied, Fenster's studio is tightly packed into that basement space. The setup reflects the breadth of his love affair with metal, with areas designated for spinning and other lathe work, forming, raising, fabrication, soldering, annealing, and polishing. He has a huge selection of hammers and stakes displayed on the wall. There's even a shower, in case work gets especially messy....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Working With Niobium - A Primer in the Semiprecious
Niobium has many properties that make it an excellent candidate for fabricated parts. Of particular interest to jewelry manufacturers and designers are niobium's hypoallergenic nature, formability, and the broad range of anodized colors that can be rendered on its surface. It is considered hypoallergenic and safe to wear for even those most sensitive to metal allergies.....

(3) [Ganoksin] Totally Tubular - Tube Setting
Tube-setting is a stylish way to set round gemstones, and it's a great first step toward more complex gemstone setting. Fabricating bezels to accommodate faceted gemstones of different shapes and sizes is an advanced skill to aspire to; however, tube-setting can more easily fulfill the desire to include faceted gemstones in your designs. Here you will learn how to tube-set a faceted gemstone using thick-walled tubing or using two telescoping tubes....

(3) [Ganoksin] "Carrick Mat Knot"- Three-lead Four-bight Turk's-head
Step by Step Tutorial - Making Three-lead Four-bight Turk's-head. The Turk's-Head is a general class of three-dimensional knot that lends itself well to decorative uses. Materials required: 18ga Silver wire...

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - How laser welders are impacting jewelry manufacture
The one tool that allows each of these jewelers to do their jobs better is a laser welder, a technological advancement that is becoming increasingly common in trade shops and manufacturing facilities. By using a sharply focused beam of light to produce very high heat in a small area, lasers are allowing jewelers to routinely accomplish tasks that would once have been either impossible or too time consuming to be worthwhile....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Minimizing cracks during jewelry manufacturing, and beyond
As many jewelry manufacturers and goldsmiths know from hard experience, cracking in jewelry can occur at any time during its manufacture. It can also occur much later, after the jewelry has been sold to the consumer or during repair. Cracking can also occur in the processing of the starting materials (the casting grain and mill products from which the jewelry is to be made), and may not be detected until several stages later in the manufacturing process....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Some notes on Dapping tools
Some notes on Dapping tools - Dapping tools are punches with a ball shaped end. As they are used to dome metal discs and making halves of beads they are sometimes called doming punches. They are usually used with a dapping block, a square or rectangular block of steel or wood which has perfect hemispherical indentations in different sizes.

(3) [Ganoksin] The Rush Job From Hell
In the jewelry business we all get rush jobs but I think this one may just get the prize for being the most work in 48 hours anyone has ever tried to get done. This nice young executive from the Trek Bicycle Corporation called us in a panic and said we were his last hope. He needed 11 pure platinum, 21 pure gold, 36 pure silver and 101 bronze map pins plus 2 pure platinum tie tacks for presentation purposes. In all it totaled 171 finished pieces by noon on Thursday. It was noon on Tuesday before he made it to the shop so we had 48 hours to do the job....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Dusts in the Jewelry Workshop
Dust is small particles of a material. There are dusts you can see in the air; these can be breathed in, and because the particles are fairly large, they end up in the upper portions of the lungs. Some can be cleared from the body by its natural mucus where it is bound up, and brought up into the esophagus. From there it is swallowed and so exposes the stomach tissue to whatever chemical was ingested. Jewelry polishers may have elevated rates of stomach cancer as a result of this. With dust in the air, however, it is the smaller, invisible particles that are the most dangerous, and these stay in your lungs.

(3) [Ganoksin] Metals Suppliers Answer Common FAQs
Behold the metals supplier, lord of all things shiny. He fills your crucible with casting grain and makes sure you're always one sheet ahead of the game. But perhaps more important than his ability to make metal magically appear at your door in 24 hours is his expert advice when your solder won't flow, your castings are porous, or you're just about ready to turn off your torch-for good. We spoke with a number of metals suppliers to find out what their customers commonly want to know. From metalworking problems that constantly reappear to recent concerns about new alloys hitting the market, they shared with us some jewels of wisdom....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - On Jewellery Career Options
One of the most interesting things about the jewellery/metals field is that there are so many career options, so many contexts that one can choose to work in. There are even ways of becoming wealthy if that is important in one's goals

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Dermatitis and the Jeweler
Dermatitis is a group of skin conditions that may often be contracted by exposure to chemicals and metals. These may include scaling, splitting, eczema and so on. Dermatitis is a real hazard for jewelers. Metal workers suffer high rates of skin disorders....

(3) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium: Methods of Manufacturing
Palladium, long used as a luxurious jewelry metal, has recently experienced renewed interest largely due to its purity, natural white color and affordable pricing. Modern 950 palladium alloys containing various trace elements are superior to the palladium ruthenium alloys previously available for use in jewelry. The new 950 palladium alloys are:...

(3) [Ganoksin] Tool Modifications for Tack-, Fusion- and Pulse-arc-Welding Technology - Part 1
Proper holding and firm contact between parts during tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc-welding is essential. Aside from pieces not meeting properly, most destructive discharges result from poor holding and/or insufficient contact. A destructive discharge causes damage to the parts being assembled. The tools supplied with the Tack II and Pulse-Arc Welders provide good holding devices for the majority of jobs you will encounter. With minor modifications and skillful use of these tools and the development of tools you may design and fabricate, you will minimize destructive discharges. Here are some examples of tool modifications you may find useful....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Wax Off - Two industry companies test ACCU Carve injection wax
AJM recently asked two companies, AU Enterprises in Berkley , Michigan , and Racecar Jewelry Co. Inc. in Cranston , Rhode Island , to test out the new ACCU Carve injection wax from KerrLab in Orange , California . Designed for casters and designers who need to rework wax patterns, ACCU Carve is intended to provide carvability in an injection wax, as well as offer low shrinkage, good flow, and low ash content. Using two different methods, the participants put this product to the test. The staff at AU took an experimental approach, reporting on the wax's performance in various categories, while the Racecar staff used the wax to fill a casting order for a class ring. The following are the results of their tests.....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Tube setting - an introduction to setting
Tube setting is a simple method of setting that can take as little as five minutes or less per setting given a specified stone size and a suitable tube to fit the stone. The setting is visually clean, has a professional look to it and can be done with a minimum of tools..... (With lllustrations)

(3) [Ganoksin] 950 Palladium and Cultured Tahitian Pearl Earrings: From Design to the Finished Pieces
These 950 Palladium earrings were designed by Tom McLaughlin of Lennon's Jewelers, Syracuse, NY. The top portion of the design is bead set with small round brilliant diamonds on one side. When worn, the bottom portion swivels and is bead set with small round brilliant diamonds on both sides. The two sides of the bottom portion are separated by 18-karat yellow gold spacers. The diamonds on each side of the bottom portion accent the round Tahitian cultured pearls as they swivel when worn....

(3) [Ganoksin] Three Designers Attempt to Capture The Essence of an Unusual Pearl
Aesthetic interpretations are as unique as fingerprints. Give three people the same trendy sweater and each will wear it in a different way. Give three jewelry designers the same unusual cultured pearl and each will design a distinctly different piece. Such was the challenge MJSA Journal posed to three innovative talents in the jewelry industry: Katey Brunini of Solana Beach, California; Ernesto Moreira of Houston; and Alishan Halebian (best known as only Alishan) of Irvine, California....

(3) [Ganoksin] Manufacturing a Crown Using Tack- and Pulse-Arc Welding Technology
David and Diana Howard, owners of My Jeweler, Inc. in Albuquerque , NM recently worked with a local church to design and manufacture a crown to be placed on a popular church icon painting. The church's parishioners donated jewelry to the cause. Howard sent the old gold out for refining and received over 4 ounces of fine gold in return. He alloyed the gold to 14-karat yellow, poured ingots and rolled wire for the crown. The crown has over 600 contact joints so Howard decided to use tack- and pulse-arc-welding technology. Here's an overview of the procedures he used....

(3) [Ganoksin] Manufacturing a White Gold and Turquoise Cameo Granulated Pendant Using Welding Technology
This article covers techniques for making this custom designed 14-karat white and 22-karat yellow gold granulated pendant for a customers turquoise cameo purchased while traveling overseas. The cameo will be set in a wire loop bezel and the 22-karat yellow gold granulation will be completed after the pendant is finished. Along with traditional techniques, tack- and fusion-welding technology was used to expedite the work....

(3) [Ganoksin] Jewelry Making - Stone Setting - A Crowning Achievement
Often jewelers are called upon to hand fabricate a crown to fit a stone. This is necessary when either the stone is a non-standard shape, or the crown needs to fit a particular design. Although one will seldom hand fabricate a simple round basket crown, constructing one gives the jeweler the basic knowledge and understanding of crown construction needed when creating a more advanced crown....

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