Hi Kelley,
The numbers associated with beading tools go from 0 to 20, I have no
idea whether these number were arbitrarily assigned or if they have a
specific value. I like to have at least three or four of every size
from 0 to 20. 8 to 12 are the sizes I use the most, and I try to keep
at least a half dozen or so of each. I order them by the dozen as
they wear out quickly and are really only at their best when new or
almost new. I will go through five or six or more beading tools in a
single pave’ job. As Frank says, they aren’t really for setting as
much as they are used to form the raised beads into nice, uniform,
polished round beads after the setting work is completed.
Bead setting, bright cutting and pave’ when done well should require
no polishing after completion. In fact, like engraving, really good
bead and bright work is diminished by polishing as it rounds the
crisp edges and flattens the beads making it kind of muddy looking.
This requires that your gravers and beading tools be extremely sharp
and highly polished with no nicks or grooves. If the tool touches a
diamond, especially the smaller tools, they are junk. It’s possible
to reshape them and reburnish them, but it takes longer to do than
the darn things are worth, they only cost a dollar or two.
I like the Swiss beading tools, and buy them from Frei and Borel or
Gesswein. If you intend to do any work requiring a shiny bead, I
would recommend getting a beading block as well. There are two basic
types, one has various sizes of ball bearings pressed into a steel
block so that about a third of the ball is exposed, the other type
has small balls corresponding to tool sizes raised on tiny pedestals,
for lack of a better description. Both work, but I prefer the one
with the raised balls, and use the ball that’s the same size,
followed by one size smaller than the tool I’m burnishing. You just
lube the tool with wintergreen oil or similar, put the tool on the
ball, and roll it around and twist it for a few seconds to burnish
the inside of the cavity. I finish with a quick polish of the outside
of the cutting edge on a ruby stone held almost parallel to the
taper. Makes for a nice, smooth, well defined and highly polished
bead.
I use the larger tools to make large milgraine and engraving
embellishments more than for bead setting and pave’. A triple row of
beads using a #8, #10 or #12 milgraine tool on the two outside rows
with #14 beads in the center makes a really nice antique style finish
on things like undergalleries. By varying sizes of both the milgraine
tool and the beading tool you can come up with all kinds of cool
combinations that will fit many widths and lengths of strip. You have
to do a bit of bright cutting and separation of beads before and
after beading for a really nice and clean effect though. Large
beading tools also create great berries and flower centers when
engraving floral patterns (cut the raised outside flange off with a
square or flat graver and be careful you don’t nick your berries!),
the smallest ones (0 -3) make excellent stippling tools, and work
best with a very light touch of your smallest chasing hammer.
In your situation, I would probably order a minimum of 3 or 4 each
of #7 to #14 tools, order a decent handle (I use one intended for
milgraine tools), with a changeable collet preferably and get a
decent beading block, as opposed to ordering a set of tools. The sets
come with one or two tools each, and you’ll burn through a couple of
tools before you even figure out what you’re doing with them. The
handles that come with the sets are also usually cheap and a little
oddly shaped, I like a larger round ball shaped handle. Much easier
on the palm of the hand. I also like the split collet style handles
that hold the tool securely as opposed to the slip-fit brass bushing
style collet that are in the cheap handles.
Beading tools are like saw blades or drill bits in that they have
very short lives. Having one or two just isn’t going to be enough if
you have a real setting job to do or if you need to make more than a
dozen or so beads. I order all of those tools by the dozen at the
very minimum and make sure I have a bunch around before starting a
big setting job.
Enjoy the blisters and calluses raising beads will raise in the palm
of your hand too. That sore, blistered, aching hand is the mark of a
pro stone setter. Wear it like the badge of honor it is, and show it
proudly! And try not to flinch when your customer shakes your hand in
thanks for doing such a fine setting job.
Happy Veteran’s Day Kelley, and Thanks for your service!
Dave Phelps
precisionplatinumjewelry.com