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> Obviously this is not a desirable senario, but has anyone else
> done it? Is it really bad or un-ethical?
It's been said that jewelry making amounts to a relatively small
number of basic techniques, plus a gazillion tricks. The bottom line
might be simply that however you arrive at the right end result is
OK. But the methods you use need to also consider safety of the stone
or item as you work, and the long term durability and servicability
of the piece. Secondary considerations are the time and effort and
cost to get the job done.
Using solder under or around a prong to tighten a stone does, if you
you have to do it, present a way to get the job done. But it's not
the right way. Slower, and sloppier in many cases. And with thermal
expansion and shrinkage, it's riskier, even with round diamonds.
Then, you've also created a situation where some future goldsmith,
needing perhaps to repair or restore a mounting, might then run into
unexpected problems because of the hidden trap you've set for them
with that solder. The need to use that solder implies that you've
done something else wrong first. An improper or poorly cut seat, or
improperly prepared, raised, or set beads or prongs, etc. It's a much
better plan to make sure you're doing the job right the first time,
so you don't have to "cheat". But that said, if you've got a job
that's gone awry, you do what you have to do to fix it. Sometimes
that means starting over at least to some degree. Other times, you
can salvage it with a trick of some sort. If the end result is
acceptable, then you're OK. Just be sure that the decision of
whether the end result is indeed acceptable is based on the proper
standards, not the convenience of you're then not having to do
something over when indeed you should have.
To your basic question, do any other jewelers do this? Of course,
when we have to. Personally, I'm more likely to alter an improperly
done prong or seat with the laser welder than with solder, but the
"ethics" are the same. It would be better to avoid having to
essentially do a repair on a new piece by getting it right the first
time.
Peter Rowe
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