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Re: [Orchid] More TIG type welding for jewelry  
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From: Callcbm
Date: Mon Jul 07 21:41:58 2008
 
     
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    Welding with tig at low amps can be very hard on beginners and
    advanced users. I welded with tig for 30+ yrs of about every metal
    that welds. When using the small amp torches the difficulty is in
    starting the arc that's where a good high frequency setting and set
    your highest amp with the dial. then when you press your pedal all
    the way down it will give a burst to the arc and start it then you
    can pull on the pedal to cool the arc. Welding a pin on any thing is
    a challenge but if you can jig it so the pin is in a heat sink and
    start your arc on the heavy base with a small filler material close
    to the weld. you can start a puddle and move it to the post with the
    right timing the weld will be good. Also the lens number should be a
    least a ten to see in this low light level or a changing lens. Some
    times in low amp we used dark cutting glasses with a jerry rigged
    face shield. This was before we new what would happen in latter life.
    from welding all these years My eyes are light sensitive and need
    lower number lens to see. we had good luck with using ac and full
    frequency on welding copper, brass any of the items that took high
    amps to melt. also adding helium to the mix increased the heat
    generated at the arc. 

    They make a pulsing tig which are great as they increase the amps
    high to puddle the metal and cool the amps so it won't melt and ruin
    what you have made. mostly used on alum but I hade good results with
    other metals also. But My pulsar was the cheap kind. Most of the
    time my torch hand a switch to turn on and off with preset heat
    hotter than I need and would toggle the switch to pulse or just move
    really fast. Also the ceramic cup should be clean with no metal build
    up and a long and sharp point on the tungsten yes I know 2% thorated
    tungsten pure for AC welding. 

    For stainless steel on small item would use stainless steel safety
    wire in a can was about .015 dia melts fast. great filler on copper
    and brass would everduer wire can't say the color matched but would
    take the high heat and metal easy. 

    Also to high of gas setting can blow the arc and the puddle playing
    with what you like is the only way not what the books says. 

    I have not done it but seen it the torches you use on welding gold
    with the solder or maybe its a brazing material looks good for
    welding most of the jewelry I see. Sharp edges and small dia pcs
    will always metal first when the arc hits it starting the arc has to
    bee on a heaver item and moving the arc will always leave a trail in
    the metal some time when you stop the arc it will dimple or leave a
    small hole and some times crack that's when you have to run the arc
    off the surface before shutting down 

Hope this helps
Thanks Randy
AKA Enjen Joes
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