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Welding with tig at low amps can be very hard on beginners and
advanced users. I welded with tig for 30+ yrs of about every metal
that welds. When using the small amp torches the difficulty is in
starting the arc that's where a good high frequency setting and set
your highest amp with the dial. then when you press your pedal all
the way down it will give a burst to the arc and start it then you
can pull on the pedal to cool the arc. Welding a pin on any thing is
a challenge but if you can jig it so the pin is in a heat sink and
start your arc on the heavy base with a small filler material close
to the weld. you can start a puddle and move it to the post with the
right timing the weld will be good. Also the lens number should be a
least a ten to see in this low light level or a changing lens. Some
times in low amp we used dark cutting glasses with a jerry rigged
face shield. This was before we new what would happen in latter life.
from welding all these years My eyes are light sensitive and need
lower number lens to see. we had good luck with using ac and full
frequency on welding copper, brass any of the items that took high
amps to melt. also adding helium to the mix increased the heat
generated at the arc.
They make a pulsing tig which are great as they increase the amps
high to puddle the metal and cool the amps so it won't melt and ruin
what you have made. mostly used on alum but I hade good results with
other metals also. But My pulsar was the cheap kind. Most of the
time my torch hand a switch to turn on and off with preset heat
hotter than I need and would toggle the switch to pulse or just move
really fast. Also the ceramic cup should be clean with no metal build
up and a long and sharp point on the tungsten yes I know 2% thorated
tungsten pure for AC welding.
For stainless steel on small item would use stainless steel safety
wire in a can was about .015 dia melts fast. great filler on copper
and brass would everduer wire can't say the color matched but would
take the high heat and metal easy.
Also to high of gas setting can blow the arc and the puddle playing
with what you like is the only way not what the books says.
I have not done it but seen it the torches you use on welding gold
with the solder or maybe its a brazing material looks good for
welding most of the jewelry I see. Sharp edges and small dia pcs
will always metal first when the arc hits it starting the arc has to
bee on a heaver item and moving the arc will always leave a trail in
the metal some time when you stop the arc it will dimple or leave a
small hole and some times crack that's when you have to run the arc
off the surface before shutting down
Hope this helps
Thanks Randy
AKA Enjen Joes
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