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| Re: [Orchid] Keum-boo hot plate | ||
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From: R . E . Rourke Date: Mon Jun 02 22:43:00 2008 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== cast iron... hmm, I personally avoid iron, in all forms, anywhere near fine silver and even low karat golds ( 14-18). I don't use anything but stainless, tungsten, titanium, tantalum and copper studio tools and am ultra careful when something is ferrous but its use is unavoidable to contain any dust or particles, etc. generated if the task involves abrasion of any kind.. Iron is an insidious contaminant particularly when working silvers. Unless the iron itself is used as a part of the design or as an alternative, and intentionally used metal I try to avoid anything containing it. One time I alloyed a quantity of gold- I used the same crucible I always used for 22karat golds, the same charcoal and ammonium sulphate refining powder I blend, but the gold came out so incredibly tough that it took more than 20 minutes to anneal to a half-hard state, never acheiving dead soft temper, and was almost resistant to rolling. I wanted to find out what happened since I keep an unbelievably clean and over-the-top organized studio. and am truly concious of ferrous metals entering the space- I had taught a class a few weeks before and all the gold sweeps and filings were in the batch I was processing. I used a magnet over the waste as always, and it extracted a bit of a saw blade. All I could presume was that the magnet missed some teeth off of the blade(s) that ruined the whole pour. I remelted it and made grain, which went directly into aqua regia. After a wait all the impurities dissolved out of the gold, and I had to start again..I learned my lesson. and lost most of the day's work time. A friend and colleague that recently passed away, DX Ross, shared the same philosophy about iron contaminants in the studio -with equal vigilance so I knew I was neither alone nor over reacting.! I would, at least, put a barrier between the cast iron and your work, even though you aren't soldering on it, why risk contamination? it can be as simple as a sheet of parchment or transfer (graphite) paper taped down so it doesn't shift when you are burnishing.. otherwise I would look for a glass topped hot plate at a garage sale, or thrift store if you must use an electric hotplate. I have a sheet of stainless steel, about a quarter of an inch thick, and keep it on a tripod over an alcohol lamp to heat the surface, the grate on the tripod acts as a diffuser for the heat..It works well, is multi-purpose (for truing bezels, straightening or flattening soft metals, etc.) and saves power. RER ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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