[Jewelry making - Article 00036] - Re: [Orchid] Setting gap between metal and stone

[jo haemer]

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    Helen- You are so right. The stone has to fit perfectly for a good
    flush setting. If it's even remotely loose, it'll never tighten. When
    we flush set at stone......We first cut the seat with a ball bur
    until the top edge of the stone girdle sits level, just at the edge
    of the hole. Then we cut the seat with a hart burr, right below the
    upper edge. Then the stone is very gently snapped into place, with a
    thumbnail. 

    Next, we use a small polished burnisher made from an old dental pick
    to very gently push the edge towards and over the stone. Then we oil
    or spit on the burnisher and push it straight down on the edge of the
    metal where it touches the stone for a nice crisp finish. 

    Flush setting is not something I'd recommend for a triangle. The
    corners are likely to break unless they are relieved in the seat. The
    very the point should have metal over it, but the tip of the corner
    needs to be free inside the seat. 

    Trying to tip or solder the corners in place is also likely to
    result in the corners breaking. Flush setting is something we usually
    do with diamonds and corundum. We have done this with softer stones,
    but with a small mortality rate. 

    In this case with the seat too big, I'd suggest the same as many
    others have, solder a bezel in. Just don't forget to free the corners
    of the triangle before setting with a tiny little ball burr right
    into the corners of the stone seat. 

    Have fun and make lots of jewelry. 

Jo
www.timothywgreen.com
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