[Jewelry making - Article 00106] - Re: [Orchid] Appropriate gauge for flush setting

[Lauren]

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    I use a bud bur to bur a hole just a hair smaller than the stone. For
    instance, if I'm setting a 3 mm stone, I'll use a bur that's maybe
    3.3 mm in diameter to make the hole opening 2.9 mm. Then I take a
    hart bur, maybe 2.7 mm, and ever so gently cut a small, level seat
    for the stone. Don't cut too deeply, or you'll have a hard time
    tightening. Angle the stone into the hole as you would when channel
    setting, and pop the stone into place with a brass pusher. If it
    won't go, open the hole a tiny bit on 2 sides where the girdle will
    be passing through on it's way down. I then use a hammer handpiece to
    hammer the metal, using the least amount of force necessary,
    depending on the amount of metal to move, and whether it's yellow
    gold, 14K white, 18K white (very hard), or platinum. 

    Yes, it does leave a flat spot around the stone, but if you don't
    make the seat too large, you don't have to hammer very much or file a
    whole lot to get it into shape. Then I take a half point graver,
    usually a left one because I'm right handed, and bevel around the
    stone. 

Lauren
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