[Jewelry making - Article 00008] - Re: [Orchid] Appropriate gauge for flush setting

[leonid surpin]

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Jessi,

    I was making a point trying to separate technique from appearance. 

    Any setting should have a seat and a base. The distance between the
    seat and the base is the depth of the stone from girdle to culet plus
    a tad more. 

    In my book, flush setting is when stone table is flush with the
    surface of the article. It is used when protruding stone can cause a
    problem. Bangle bracelet for example. 

    The technique of creating this appearance is to solder tube slightly
    larger diameter of the stone. The tube will joint the upper and the
    lower surfaces of the bangle and will serve as virtual gallery, the
    inside surface becomes a base, and the seat is created by drilling 
the
    tube to the required depth. The stone can be secured by raising bead,
    or by burnishing over some metal, or by using Gypsy method of
    setting, or illusion setting, and etc. The metal comprising the 
bangle
    is quite thin and rarely more than 0.4 mm. 

    Wedding band, while setting 1 pointers in 1 mm metal will work, a
    much better appearance would be created by using bangle bracelet
    approach. This approach also makes setting more stable and less prone
    to loosing stones in case minor impact. 

    It is good to remember that flush setting is used either to protect
    the stone, or to draw color of surrounding metal into the stone. For
    example: a pale yellow diamond set flush in 18 kt yellow gold would
    have an appearance of fancy yellow. 

    Few words about technique. 

    Gypsy setting was invented to conceal the girdle of a stone. It can
    be set flush or protruding. Since concealing girdle makes stone look
    smaller, the technique should be reserved for large cabochons. I
    cannot think of a reason to use Gypsy on faceted stone. 

    Roman setting is a bit more interesting. True Roman is not used
    nowadays. The technique was used when stone were cut out-of-round and
    so were the holes. Think how difficult it was to make round hole in
    the time of ancient Rome. The hole was made larger with undercuts on
    girdle level. The stone was wrapped in gold or silver foil enclosing
    pavilion and leaving some excess above the girdle. Such stone was
    jammed into the hole allowing foil to flow and fill the gaps between
    the stone and the hole undercuts. After that the excess of the foil
    was burnished into the remaining openings and above the stone 
creating
    appearance of modern Gypsy setting.

Leonid Surpin.
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