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Re: [Orchid] Appropriate gauge for flush setting  
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From: John Donivan
Date: Thu Mar 27 22:14:05 2008
 
     
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>     i was wondering what a more appropriate gauge would be - i would
>     like to set stones up to 3 mm in size. 

    Kirsten, a highly skilled setter can set a 3mm stone into 22 gauge
    in many cases. You may or may not have that skill, but it's also not
    the point. The #1 mistake newbies with stones make is not allowing
    for the depth of the stone. Our policy, which is not unique, is that
    the culet cannot touch flesh. There are some stones with softer
    points that it's not so bad with, but having diamond or even CZ
    culets rake across your finger or pound into your collar/chest will
    last about 60 seconds before you take it back to the maker. So for a
    3mm stone you're looking at 2.75mm stock, or something like that - I
    could look it up in B&S, but offhand I don't know that in gauges -
    don't use them. One of the reasons for the use of undergalleries is
    to raise the stone without raising weight, but that's generally more
    for pendants than band rings. I'd strongly advise you bear all this
    in mind, but otherwise just try thicker metal until YOU are
    comfortable - you're the setter, after all. 

http://www.donivanandmaggiora.com
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