[Jewelry making - Article 00170] - Re: [Orchid] Melting white gold solder twice

[JanetB]

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Hi Mark!

    Before reheating the solder the second time, I had done almost
    exactly what you suggested. Only difference was that I used a much
    stronger acid, rinsed in running water (didn't ultrasonic and
    steam), and used cone borax which has the higher melting point
    needed for white gold solder. Can't add solder to the seam because I
    wasn't soldering a seam..:-)....See next comment.... 

Hi Andy!

    I wasn't pick soldering....I was sweat soldering two- and three-
    millimeter disks (.35mm thick) to a mirror-finnish palladium
    white-gold base. Pick soldering or soldering a seam is much easier
    because the solder itself receives the flame directly. With sweating
    sheet to sheet, only the pieces being joined--not the flame itself--
    have to melt the solder. And there is no way to add a bit as Mark
    suggested because it is crucial not to have any solder on the shiny
    base beyond the tiny disk..... 

Everyone:

    Has anyone sweat soldered small pieces of sheet to a large piece of
    sheet with white gold solder without any problem getting the solder
    to run the second time? The key point here is that in the second
    soldering, the solder never receives the flame directly..... 

    Who's soft white-gold easy solder do you use and what are it's
    melting and flow points? My Easy Rio is 710/787F. and 1310/1450C.
    Anyone have anything with a lower melting point? 

Thanks for any and all input!
Janet in Jerusalem
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