[Jewelry making - Article 00561] - Re: [Orchid] 14K Bezel frustrations

[Richard Hart]

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I understand your frustration.

    Having the right tools and the right technique is the solution. I use
    a ball burr on the inside and remove metal just below the top edge,
    when I go to push the bezel against the stone, there is not as much
    resistance. On some bezels, the top outside edge is thinned down.
    Sometimes a bezel pusher will work, sometimes from experience I know
    I have to start with a hammer handpiece. At 60 years old, I have less
    strength than I used to, and the hammer handpiece is used more often.
    Good aim and patience are very important when using the hammer
    handpiece. A slow and steady hand moving the handpiece exactly where
    it needs to go each second you use it. I actually find that I hold my
    breath to be as steady as I need to be to not find the surface of the
    stone with the hammer handpiece. 

    Having your piece in a vice or an engraving block will increase
    chance of success as you will not be working against yourself trying
    to hold the piece with leverage against the force you are applying
    to bend the metal and not holding it immobile. When bezel setting the
    stone, I start on one long side and move a little metal, go to the
    other side and go back and forth to center the stone, then do each
    end. I have to determine before I start how much force I need before
    I start, as the work hardening will be the only issue that will lead
    to problems and frustration. My opinion is that a certain amount of
    strength is needed if you do not have a hammer hand piece, and
    lacking the strength or the handpiece, people resort to higher karat
    bezels. Thousands of pieces of jewelry are made every day with 14kt
    bezels. 

Richard Hart
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