[Jewelry making - Article 00647] - Re: [Orchid] My first gypsy setting

[Susannah Garcia]

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Hello,

    How I've done it is I trace the shape of the stone where I want to
    set it in the metal. I then drill one or two holes (depending on size
    of stone) and following that I take a cone bur and bur out the
    rounded part of the stone, until the girdle just barely sits above
    the setting for it. Then I take a sharp graver, and carefully with a
    light touch remove enough metal for the pointy parts. I then take a
    hart bur around the area to be set, but underneath the top surface
    part of the metal. Since points can be fragile with pear and square
    cut stones, I take a small round bur and hollow out the area where
    the point will sit. Leave a lip of metal to burnish over the stone
    once you've got it in the setting. For ovals, use a cone bur at each
    end of the oval, and use a graver to make the resulting figure 8 an
    oval. Then use a hart bur to make the seat. Some folks like to use
    flex shaft hammers, to hammer the metal around the top of the stone,
    but personally I find these alarming. 

    There was a fabulous jeweler in Mason City, IA, who was a complete
    expert at these kinds of settings. He showed me a ring he made with
    white gold and colored different shaped diamonds. It was beautiful.
    I've seen him on the orchid list, maybe he'll respond to your
    question. 

Susannah
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