[Jewelry making - Article 00611] - Re: [Orchid] To cast or fabricate stone setting

[John Donivan]

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>     The stone has a visible inclusion near the point that looks like a
>     few straight lines when viewed from one direction, but appear as
>     planes when turned 90 degrees 

    Zachary, you're setting a big ol' piece of glass that's already
    cracked. The lines are probably cleavage lines, which are (probably)
    natural, but it's just waiting to finish the job and split. The only
    difference between wax and fabrication is that fabricated prongs and
    bezels are drawn so they have superior setting properties in general.
    I'd probably try to set it in some sort of modified cushion setting.
    One stategy: Make a sheet "bezel" as thick as you want that fits
    around the stone as high as needed to encase it, solder a bearing
    wire inside it at a height to accomodate the stone and cut the angle
    to suit the pavilion (we call that the "belly" a lot). Then saw cut
    four prongs out of the top edge and use those to set the stone. A
    true bezel set is going to be risky at best. It's a place to glue
    down the stone before pushing the prongs down, too. You could also
    make the bezel and solder prongs in various ways, too, but what I'm
    suggesting is a bezel look with lighter prongs to hold the stone - if
    the stone is encased in the bezel form, and it's a pendant, you won't
    need that much metal to hold it down. 

http://www.donivanandmaggiora.com
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