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| Re: [Orchid] New to bezel setting | ||
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From: Connie Langan Date: Tue Jan 08 03:30:48 2008 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Marcimarie, First I will describe the problems you are having as I see it, then some solutions. First: As someone who is fairly new at soldering, I think I recognize the main problem you are experiencing. That is, insufficient heat. The items you are using to hold down the bezel against the sheet are large heat sinks. They need to be at least as hot as the metal itself to not pull heat away from your work. Second, filing an item to create an absolutely flat surface is frustrating. 1. A butane torch does not get as hot as the average jeweler's choice of torch, which is gas and oxygen or gas and air, usually propane, natural gas or acetylene for the gas. These are much hotter, with not only more intensity of heat but also more volume. Jewelery makers choose them over butane because they start wanting to use hard solder and heat larger pieces, and they need more heat to do so. Without getting a new torch you can try using thin binding wire to press your bezels down, instead of larger items. You just have to attach it so it does not bind too near the previous solder joint, so it won't get stuck to the piece. You tie it on like a twist tie. Actually tying binding wire is an art in itself. I found good information in a book called Jewelry Making by Murray Bovin, and another one called Form Emphasis for Metalsmiths by Heikki Seppa. For a simple bezel you would just bind it like a ribbon around a wrapped present, its lines dividing the work into 4. Then twist-tie the ends away from the piece - not on the bottom, but somewhere in the air between the bezel and back sheet. It also helps to make a little kink in the wire "in the air" on each side, so it will stretch, while still pressing down. The expansion and contraction of the piece and the wire makes it possible that the wire might contract and dig into your piece if you don't. I wish I could draw you a picture here but think of a wire with a kink or a fold in it instead of being a straight line. Binding wire will absorb much less heat than a big old pair of tweezers. I have gotten instructions on this forum to "raise a stitch" to keep bezels in place but that is more for lateral stabilization, not vertical. 2. Instead of filing the bottom of your bezel flat, glue or stick with 2-sided tape some sandpaper (the wet/ dry kind) onto a flat piece of acrylic (like fake windowpane) sand-side up of course, and rub the bezel on that, in little circles. It will flatten your bezel bottom exactly, unlike a file and the human hand which is impossible to control against creating facets. I hope this helps you! Connie L. www.papayani.com ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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