[Jewelry making - Article 00170] - [Orchid] Diamond cuts technicals

[leonid surpin]

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Was: How to Tighten Princess Cut Diamonds?

>     I was under the impression that cuts like the princess, marquise,
>     pear, oval and the like were all modified brilliants, ie. designed
>     to maximise the return of light 

    Tastes differ, so I respect your aesthetic preferences, but as far as
    technical of the cuts, only round brilliant is optimized for light
    return, the rest of the cuts were arrived at out of necessity. 

    I realize that it may an old school, but for whatever it worth:
    Solitaire round larger then 2 carat looks obnoxious. If larger stone
    is desired than oval cut should be used and after 12 X 8 it is
    marquis to the rescue. Pears make nice earrings and pendants. 

    I do not understand them as a ring stone. Cocktail rings are
    excepted from this discussion. But every sharp corner is a light leak
    and there is absolutely nothing that can be done. Princess has 4 of
    them and what makes it egregious that there is no need for it. Square
    shape does not harmonize with human hand. It would make hand look
    squarish which not complimentary to a woman, but may be o.k. for a
    man. If woman wears long fingernails, the ring with square stone
    would appear to cut the finger, not the preferred look. We very often
    forget that client is not the walking display of our skills. It is
    the other way around. Our skills should make the client look better. 

    Compare round brilliant and princess side by side. One condition.
    Round brilliant should have table 53%, pavilion depth 43.5%, and
    crown height 16.2%. 

    May take some effort to find it, but if you do, compare it to a
    princess, then you will know what I am talking about. 

    My guess is that round cuts that you have encountered had very
    different proportions, and deviations from them result in degraded
    appearance. I even suggest that some of them were so badly mishandled
    that even princess looks good in comparison. 

    Yes, I know that now it is more appropriate to talk about range of
    proportions instead of rigid standard. I say hogwash! When we listen
    to the music do we accept a range of a keys, or do we require an
    exact match? 

Leonid Surpin.
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