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| Re: [Orchid] Burnout temperatures and times | ||
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From: Larry Loban Date: Wed Dec 05 04:48:24 2007 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Russell: I was catching up on my Orchid reading and I noticed you didn't receive many direct answers to your inquiry about your burnout schedule. We've been casting the way you will be since about 1969. I own an Aim kiln also but I also still use the same burnout oven and Kerr long arm centrifuge my dad bought back then. I mostly use Satincast investment and our burnout schedule is pretty much what you noted except we usually don't end quite as hot. An hour at 325, an hour at 700, two hours at 1,200, and if we are casting sterling an ending temp of 1,000. I think 200 degrees below the melting temp of metal is an ok rule though I cast copper with the flask coming out of the kiln at around 1,850 and hold a reduction flame on the copper as late as possible. If you want to read a really good series of step by step articles about lost wax centrifugal casting my dad wrote a six piece series for Rock and Gem magazine in 1975-76 that holds up perfectly well today. If you have interest I'll send you a photocopy. Your idea of building a vacuum table sparked some memories. We've probably enjoyed building equipment as much as making and selling jewelry. We started hobby casting by vibrating the air out of flasks with an electric vibrator (hand massager) clamped in a vice. Actually did an OK job. We built our own vacuum table using a compressor from an old refrigerator. I still use it today. It's a little slower than something professional and modern but it still pulls 23inHg. Someday when the compressor gives up the ghost I'll buy the pump I've been eyeing in the Rio catalog, but it's gone over 35 years and counting. We built our first wax injection unit out of a large and a small can separated by plaster with Nichrome wire wound around the inner can. A "U" of copper pipe with a cone on one end and a plunger (handle was from the choke of a '54 Chevy) did the injection work. As we got into more production we eventually replaced it with a compressed air injector but the home-made one got us started. We vulcanized outside the shop in a toaster oven and compressed with a four bolt clamping system. Our family history with jewelry goes back to the late 1800's and many times you just had to make your own equipment. My Grandfather had Oklahoma watchmaker's license number 0003. I still occasionally use his home-made watch degausser and his ring welder. Things haven't always work perfectly. We fabricated a vacuum caster out of box tubing, run off the same compressor as the vacuum table, that worked - sort of - but was too slow to be effective. And the experiments with vulcanizing in the oven at home made our 1972 Thanksgiving dinner late (we were all standing outside while the house aired out). Although jewelry and watch repair put food on the table, making equipment has been just as fun. Thanks for your post jogging some fond memories. Larry ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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