[Jewelry making - Article 00109] - Re: [Orchid] Setting customer stones

[richard hart]

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>     There is no reason in the world why a gemstone, and especially a
>     diamond should not survive a setting process. The largest forces
>     acting on gemstone are forces generated while gemstone is cut. If
>     it survives cutting, it can be set without been broken or chipped.
>     The only issue is time. Some gemstones simply takes longer that the
>     others, and accidents occur when setter either does not understand
>     the particular problem inherent to the gemstone, or does not care
>     to take precautions to avoid damaging the gemstone. 

    Cutting will not cause a diamond to cleave, but I have seen a
    customers ring with a diamond that was hit just right, it was still
    set, but the top had come off at an angle slanting downward across
    the diameter. Princess cut diamonds and marquise cut are easily
    subject to breakage if great care is not take. Great care in setting
    is not enough when the pressure needed to move the metal is greater
    than the pressure needed to break that particular diamond. Not all
    diamonds are created equal, and bezel set is much more risky than
    prong set. I would rather set a marquise or princess amethyst, topaz,
    garnet, sapphire, or ruby than a diamond. I have an allergic reaction
    the well known crunch those of us have experienced that make our
    stomach turn. Symptom is immediate headache and stomachache. 

Richard Hart
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