[Jewelry making - Article 00656] - Re: [Orchid] Gemstones for Antique Platinum Filigree ring

[David L. Huffman]

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Hi Amy;

    Pay attention you sales people out there, here's how you "inform"
    your customers to the point that you can take a sale away from your
    competition. 

    You're not Amy Tan the author, are you? Love that stuff, Kitchen God
    and all that. Seriously, your jeweler isn't giving you all your
    options. First off, there's no reason that ring can't be sized with
    the stone in it. Unless the shank were massive the heat wouldn't
    conduct down to the stone, especially if the soldering were done with
    the ring top immersed in water or some other heat shield. The new
    plumb platinum solders will allow that to work if your jeweler knows
    what they're doing. And a laser, or even a pulse welder would do it
    without damage to the stone if you didn't want to risk using a torch.
    What that should cost depends on whether it's going up or down in
    size, and how much up if it's going up. 

    Now first off, I don't think your jeweler is trying to overcharge
    you, if indeed he had to do it the way he says he does. Here's an
    example from some of my retailers. 

    size a platinum ring down. $50 size a ring with a 2 millimeter wide
    X 1.5 millimeter thick shank up one size. $70, $8 for each additional
    size. 

    replace a prong in platinum. around $35, but cheaper per prong for
    more than one. stone setting price depends on the stone; for an oval
    like that, anywhere from $30 to $75 

    Here's the order I'd do it if I were on a budget. It's a "pay as you
    go" plan. 

    1. have the ring sized, with the old stone in it. (least expense) 

    2. get the prongs done and have a new peridot set in it when you do
    (more money, but if the prongs are done right, they can be carefully
    pulled back and a new stone set in it if it's been done right). 

    3. find a good deal on a sapphire, a hard and lively stone that
    costs less than a diamond. 

    Peridot is a really soft stone for a ring that's worn every day. And
    really, a good peridot that size isn't expensive at all. I'd feel
    guilty to charge you more than $50. If you don't want to spend for a
    diamond, why not look into sapphires? They come in all kinds of
    lovely shades from blue to pink, yellow, green. And oval cuts are
    common. My advice, try another jeweler, get the ring sized, get new
    prongs, and see what you can find in a green sapphire. I've given
    you my plan of attack. 

Best of luck.
David L. Huffman
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