[Jewelry making - Article 00348] - Re: [Orchid] Byzantine chain patterns

[Michelle]

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>     In almost all of them there is a formula for calculating wire size
>     for ring diameter and the density of the chain - they have a term
>     for that which I don't recall. Essentially it's a way of figuring
>     whether the links will be tight or loose or even go together by
>     calculating which gauge to use for the size of ring. 

    Aspect Ratio (AR) is the term. It is a handy little equation. If you
    know that a weave will work with a given wire diameter and inner
    diameter of a ring then, you can change the wire size and find the
    ring size, as the aspect ratio is a constant. It works for round-wire
    round-rings. Adjustments have to be made for rings made from square
    wire, and I would assume for oval rings. I don't work with oval
    rings much so I don't know what adjustments need to be made for
    working with oval rings. Adjustments for square wire round-rings are
    noted below.

    ~~ This next part is taken from the pdf file on my website, and
    edited. ~~~ 

    Aspect Ratio (AR) is how the diameter of wire in millimeters relates
    to the internal diameter of the ring. 

    AR= internal diameter/ diameter (mm) 

    If I am making a Byzantine chain and the AR is 3.5 then I know I can
    figure out what the inner diameter is for any wire gauge size I want
    to use. This allows me the flexibility to change wire gauges and make
    heavier or more delicate chains. so to make a Byzantine in various
    gauges 

    3.5 = x/y where x is the diameter (ID) of the ring and y is the
    diameter of the wire or 3.5 = ID/diameter 

    Rearrange the equation 

    AR*y=(x/y)*y (to cancel the y from the right side of the equation)

    AR*y =x (and substitute 3.5 which is the aspect ratio for the
    Byzantine) 

    3.5*y=x 

    or 

    AR(Diameter)= (ID/Diameter) Diameter
    AR(Diameter)= ID

    Ga AR* Diameter= ID (mm)
    16 (1.3mm) 3.5*1.3= 4.55
    18 (1.0 mm) 3.5*1.0= 3.5
    20 (0.8 mm) 3.5*0.8= 2.8
    22 (0.65 mm) 3.5*0.65= 2.275

    I recommend rounding up to the next ring size that you have
    available if the ID falls in between your mandrel sizes. However,
    with the spring back in wire a 2.75 mm mandrel works well for 0.8 mm
    round wire, and a 4.5 mm is perfect for 1.3 mm wire. Also keep in
    mind that this equation is designed for round wire, round rings.
    Square wire round rings need to be at least.25mm -0.5 mm larger than
    the round wire round rings. 

    The.pdf file needs to be updated a bit but it is here if you want to
    see http://www.chainweavers.com/aspectratio.pdf 

Have a good day!
Michelle
Decolletage Jewels &
Chainweavers.com
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