[Jewelry making - Article 00210] - Re: [Orchid] Gold bezel wire for a novice goldsmith

[Neilthejeweler]

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    You don't say what gauge your 18K bezel wire is but I suspect its
    pretty thin, simply because its 'bezel' wire. Obviously what I'm
    going to say doesn't apply to those who have success with bezel
    strip, I suppose its a touch thing, you either have the touch for a
    bezel strip or you don't. I don't, generally. I prefer a thicker
    gauge. Mostly if I need a bezel I make it from flat wire. 1mm thick
    or more. 

    As you discovered, thin bezel strip has springiness to it even once
    its annealed. I would guess the reason is not metallurgical but
    physical. On a very thin sheet or strip you have two surfaces very
    close to each other. So close that they interact. Bend one surface
    the other is affected. If you stretch the outer surface over a stone
    by nature the inner surface would have to compress. But it resists
    compression. I couldn't tell you exactly why but this is my
    observation. 

    With a thicker stock you get what I call the Mush Factor. When you
    hammer it, it FEELS soft. It SOUNDS soft. You push it and it moves.
    It stays (almost) exactly where you put it. This is particularly
    handy on fragile stones. Maybe its the surfaces being further apart,
    maybe its just the compressibility of the gold. I can't be certain.
    But I am certain that if I have to hammer set some square cornered,
    shallow emeralds into a bezel, I want that bezel thick. 

    Now as to what to do with your remaining bezel strip, I'd suggest
    you score the inside of the bezel along the area where you want it to
    fold over the stone. This will be tricky because you want the score
    to be deep enough to provide a meaningful relief but not so deep as
    to break through during setting and polishing. Also, if its too deep
    you will see a clear folding on the outside of the bezel. It'll look
    like an unwanted step instead of a smooth transition. If you make 
your
    thin bezel a little larger than the stone, instead of having a
    press-in fit, you now have some wiggle room. With a press-in fit the
    tendency is to bend the bezel at the point where it touches the
    girdle. This means that you have to really compress the metal to
    bring the edge tight against the crown. Thin gauge wants to bend or
    distort rather than compress. If you have your bezel a tad large you
    can bring the top edge in more easily. 

    I've used the word hammer. You can use a hammer handpiece on the
    flexshaft or chasing tool and hammer. I see people struggle with
    burnishers, trying to move the bezel in. What's a burnisher but a
    stretcher really? You want to minimize stretch, particularly parallel
    to the girdle. If you don't hammer then use a pusher or rocker,
    moving the metal straight in toward the center. 

>     Is all 18k the same in workability? 

    No. I find the Royal yellow very nice to mush about.
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