[Jewelry making - Article 00058] - Re: [Orchid] How often do you "start over"

[John Donivan]

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>     I know you professionals out there can't afford to start over
>     again like hobbyists, 

    Oh, Ben? How so? The short answer is that you are more normal than
    you might think. The long answer you might find interesting. I'm a
    special order jeweler, which means that I make whatever is needed,
    and almost everything is different. I'm also pretty much the
    troubleshooter around here, so people bring me their problems - today
    someone asked me if I can make a watch case in my back room. He
    didn't mean something arty, he meant a real watch case in gold - I
    said no because I can't. I know that many people here seem to be
    making really custom stuff, and it's real nice work, but they are
    manufacturing their own line, really. That's a good thing. I get
    people throwing all sorts of stuff at me, though - I just fixed a
    broken brass doorknob for a guy, or it might be a big diamond in
    platinum with lots of detail, and coming up is a bale for a beach
    rock. Everything is different. So, that's some background. I do know
    how to do most everything, in a way. I can sit here and tell you how
    to make a setting or use some method without breathing hard, and most
    people only think what they want is unique - I've probably made it
    before. But those are only the parts of the work - how to solder, how
    to make a cushion setting. Putting all those parts together into a
    piece of jewelry is still the goal, and sometimes we all miss. Not
    allowing enough room for stones or carving, not starting with enough
    weight in the stock is a common one. Ditto not leaving enough height
    for the culets of stones. I designed a catch for a bracelet (the
    turquoise and pearl on my site) that was needlessly complicated, and
    it took me two months to get it right - I had to rebuilt the entire
    link at one point, because it was overworked. No, Ben, you are more
    normal than you think - pros just try to avoid getting into a jam,
    and wisdom helps there, or we try to adapt to what occurs instead of
    scrapping something, but it still happens. I'll tell you though - the
    first thing I do when I get a complex piece is I sit down and think
    about it. Sometimes a week - I think about it till I have the entire
    piece, and a plan, clear in my mind. Then I start to work. And I, too
    will go exploring. You'd be amazed how much copper I use - to make
    some mockup so I can get a feel for the length or size - or just
    knock out a wax so I can see how the curves are going to interact
    with each other. I call it 3d sketching - they're not mistakes,
    they're sketches. Then I'll know what to do, and make the real thing.
    Some of the fabulous and famous pieces you'll see began as a plaster
    model, to get all the details straight, and then the real thing gets
    made. Sometimes the pros are no less klutzy as you are, they just
    know to step back a bit instead of just tearing into it. 

http://www.donivanandmaggiora.com
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