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| Re: [Orchid] Drilling Dilema | ||
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From: Ian W. Wright Date: Sat Jul 28 06:05:27 2007 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Most sources such as manufacturers websites, machinery handbook etc. say that you should use small drills at high speed but this data is only really relevant where the drills are used in precision industrial machinery for drilling shallow holes and with bags of coolant. In practice in a small workshop slower is better and, indeed, very slow might be best. Any hole which is more than 3 times the drill diameter is classed as 'deep drilling' and is a different ball game to normal drilling as factors such as chip removal, side friction, difficulty of cooling the drill tip etc. come into play. I regularly drill holes down to 0.1mm diameter through carbon tool steel in making parts for watches and so I have, over the years, tried every combination of speed, pressure, coolant etc. Trying to use a high speed with a High Speed Steel drill or a Carbon steel one will just blunt and glaze the point very quickly. The temptation (or one could almost say 'reflex') then is to increase the drilling pressure to make the drill cut which then, inevitably, causes the drill to break. If this is in iron or steel you then have the almighty and often insurmountable problem of trying to remove the broken pieces from the hole. In brass or similar metals this is not too bad a problem as you can dissolve the broken drill away by soaking it in an alum solution for a few days. Carbide drills, on the other hand, do need quite a high speed - though not as high as usually quoted for the same reasons as above, but they need a very light pressure or they will quickly dig in and snap. The only way I have found to remove them is to try to break them up with a little punch - not easy at small sizes and often still leaves debris impacted in the hole which prevents further drilling. In any case, an accurate drill press is needed for such small drills and drilling should be done by 'pecking' gently at the hole with the drill running at a fairly low speed - patience is the key!! Coolant is optional but, in a deep hole, can cause the chips to clog together and sieze the drill into the hole - I prefer to work dry and blow the chips away with an air jet. An alternative way to produce the holes may be to make a simple spark eroder - there are several plans on the web for making such a machine. Best wishes, Ian Ian W. Wright Sheffield UK ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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