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| Re: [Orchid] [Source] Opal cylinder | ||
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From: Thejewelmaker Date: Tue May 08 05:47:13 2007 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Kevin Just in case the centerless grinding setup doesn't workout for you I thought that I would pass on another method. When I first saw your post I visualized your opal as expensive and beautiful. Something that I wouldn't want to either waste or damage. I develop a healthy paranoia when working dangerously on rare material and want as much care and control as possible. That means that I want the work it in my hands and close to my eyes. First block the stone out on a flat lap until you have perfectly square rod with the thickness of the finished cylinder. If you are trying to recover as much weight from your material as possible the corners can remain a little rough, Glue round brass rods about 1 inch long (turned to size of the cylinder on a lathe) dead center on either end. These are going to be your grinding guides and handles. Paint the four flat sides of the opal with a blue permanent marker and lightly scribe a centerline down their length. This will help you keep your grinding parallel. Use a wet lapidary machine to rough grind the corners off of the opal and pre-form the cylinder. Don't grind the brass guides! You will now have round corners with four narrow flat sides that still have a fine line running down the center of each. Now use a vertical flat diamond lap to finish the shaping, Supporting the work between your index fingers and thumbs rolling the piece against the lap, keeping the guides parallel to the lap gradually working the high areas closer to the brass guides and creeping up on the center lines. You can roll with the lap or pull against it depending on how you feel it cutting. Don't take heavy cuts, keep the lap wet and work continuously around the piece attempting to reduce each corner gradually by the same amount with each pass. When done the brass guides should just about be in continuous contact with the lap and the scribed line almost beginning to disappear. Switch to a finer lap to finishup and then polish. Sounds time consuming but in fact it goes pretty fast. If you have experience at this type of work you could skip bluing and scribing, and just roll lap it by eye to match the brass guides. I have an 8" lapidary setup but use the accu-finish tool grinder with a wet sponge for this type of work, the worktable makes a perfect hand rest and the speed is about right, 300rpm. The link below will show you the machine. Any flat diamond lap should work. I also use the accu-finish for grinding lathe tools, gravers, brass, nickel silver, soft gemstones and even the occasional piece of wood. I true up gold and silver castings, and square flat work on it as well. It is one of the most useful and used tools in my studio. http://www.accu-finish.com/seriestwo.html Good Luck Dennis Smith - thejewelmaker ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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