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| Re: [Orchid] More about Jump Ringer | ||
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From: Kelley Dragon Date: Wed May 02 06:15:47 2007 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Carolyn - I have a PEPE Tools Jump Ring Maker System. It comes with everything the basic Jump Ringer comes with, but also with 20 round mandrels that range from 2.5mm to 12mm diameter. The saw blade that comes with it is thicker than the Jump Ringer, I am told. (Look in the archives for a recent thread on that.) So far I have been very happy with it. You can't go wrong with either system. Mandrels of other shapes and sizes are available; they will fit either system, I'll bet, since both use the 3-tooth Jacobs chuck type of quick release. The PEPE Tools kit is by far the most cost-effective. You will need a Foredom (or similar) flex shaft, with a #30 handpiece...that's what the cutting system is designed to use. Dremel will NOT do (first-hand experience on my part). Make sure you have this on hand before you get the jump ring system. No matter which systems you buy, here are a few safety tips to consider: # Wear safety goggles before you start cutting. Metal dust becomes airborne, and it's very fine. # Don't have your foot anywhere near the pedal until you are certain everything works correctly, the top is fastened down, and the cutting blade is in the slot. The system is designed with safety in mind, but "pilot error" can overcome most safety devices. # After the first, second and third use (initially, or anytime after you change a blade), loosen the handpiece, push it out of the housing (leave the blade on), and check to make sure the blade mandrel is tight!!! I was careful the first time, but after blade replacement I didn't check. Could not figure out why my new blade was binding and getting so hot...turns out the mandrel screw had backed out and only the blade guide was keeping the blade from flying around. # Tighten both ends of the cutting slot evenly, and at the same time. If you tighten one side, then the other, there will be uneven tension and subsequent binding on the blade. It's tedious, but I hold the cutting slot down with light pressure on the coil while I tighten the top nuts. Then I pick up the loaded device and check to make sure the clearance on the left is the same as on the right. Until you get one and handle it, some of my instructions won't make sense. Just re-read after you get the jump ring system. I have never tried cutting square or triangular 'rings', but it should not be too much different. Don't know about oval at all; maybe someone else has experience? I know the mandrels are out there. best regards, Kelley ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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